Fuzion paste wax help on black........

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pittpens24

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I can't be the only one totally beside myself and upset with the expectations I had for this wax so what did I do wrong?

I am not a newbie and had my own detail business ages ago. Everything came out exceptional until I waxed.

I have a 1968 Camaro Pro-tour show car that is black with white lace stripes and wanted a flawless deep shine. I have been winning shows by using CG Blacklight Glaze followed up with Meguiar's Gold class. After doing a lot of research and reading reviews of many products, I came up with a plan to try on my 2018 black Silverado dail driver as a test dummy.

Needed to do a total paint correction so I started with a wash and claybar.

Followed up on my D/A with Mezerna 2500 then 3500.

Hit it with the CG Blacklight glaze(absolutely love it on black).

Next was the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant cured 16 hours and topped with one coat of Fuzion - wanted to do 2 coats to ensure total coverage but ran out of time so the next morning I hit with a 2nd coat buffed it off and pulled it out of the garage into the sunlight to see the results.

Was ok for the most part but a little "smeary or oily" in spots on the hood.

Tried buffing with a new MF and it was better but still a little oily I guess you could say. By the time I gave up on the hood and walked around the rest of the truck, it had a haze to it.

Wiped the entire truck down again. At this point the paint was hot from the sun. Decided to clean up the garage from my paint correction mess and when I was done about an hour later, the truck was hazed again.

I wiped it down again and was super upset with the fuzion. The next 2 days it rained and still looked a little smeary in spots. I washed the truck with a foam cannon and 2 bucket system, dried it with a leaf blower and MF waffle weave towel and it looked great.

Everything was applied by D/A with exception of the Fuzion.

Truck looked phenominal after the sealant so I was good up until then.

What did I miss?


:)
 
Fuzion is a super high quality wax. I've never had a single problem with application or wipe-off.

That said, the key to using this product is super, uber thin coat. Allow to dry and then wipe off. Warm, hot temperatures could lead to oily wipe-off.


Anytime you have smears, this is simply excess product that has not been removed. I wrote and article back in 2009 that shows a tip for making the final wipe to remove smears. Maybe this will help....



The Final Wipe – Tips for creating a streak-free, show car finish


detail-196.jpg

1959 Chevrolet El Camino - Extreme Makeover




Note: The final wiping technique is not for the initial wiping-off of the wax or paint sealant, but instead is for after the majority of product has been already been removed and now all you’re doing is giving the finish a final wipe.


Turning a diamond in the rough into a glistening gemstone
You started early in the morning by washing the car, then you clayed the paint, then removed all the swirls and scratches, then polished the finish to a super high gloss and after that you applied your favorite wax or paint sealant. You’ve taken a diamond in the rough and turned it into a glistening gemstone. After removing the wax or the paint sealant it’s time to give the paint one last final wipe to remove any trace residues and showcase all your hard work.

Here’s a tip to help you insure there are no streaks or smears left on the paint and a technique that on some hard to work on paints that might be just the ticket for creating the perfect finish in any lighting condition.

The Final Wipe
After all the work is done, when it’s time to give the paint the final wipe-down before you stand back and say to yourself it is finished, and then you take your pride and joy for a spin around the block or turn the keys back over to the owner, you usually want and need to give the paint a final wipe-down to insure you didn’t miss any spots and to remove any trace residues off the paint that can stand out like a sore thumb in the right light at the right angle that will so easily distract everyone’s attention from the work of art you’ve created.

This technique can often times help you to remove any stubborn streaks or uneven looking areas on the paint, and it’s exactly opposite of what I’ve often seen enthusiasts and detailers do my entire car detailing life.


The Technique
The technique is to wipe the paint down slowly using your best, premium quality microfiber polishing cloth using gentle, even pressure. Fold your polishing cloth 4-ways to provide plenty of cushion to help spread out the pressure from your hand as best as you can over the face of the folded microfiber.

Fold your microfiber polishing cloth to create plenty of cushion to help spread out the pressure from your hand and to give you 8 dedicated wiping sides.
detail-193.jpg


detail-194.jpg


detail-195.jpg


detail-196.jpg



The secret to this technique is purposefully moving your hand and wiping cloth s-l-o-w-l-y over the paint, not like a spastic crazy guy moving his hand at light-speed over the surface.
detail-197.jpg



How it works
The way this works is really quite simple but let me break it down for you into simple terms so everyone can understand. When making the final wipe, your job is to remove all trace residues from the previously applied wax or paint sealant; that’s your job. While to the human eye the surface of your car’s paint looks smooth and flat, under a microscope it’s actually a landscape of hills and valleys, (which is high spots and low spots), as well as pits and pores and interstices. (Interstices = microscopic gaps and cracks in the paint)

Trace residues remain in the lower imperfections on the surface and when you move a polishing cloth over the surface the fiber’s of the polishing cloth grab onto and removes residues off the high points the easiest. Again, your job is to remove all the trace residues and do it in such a way that you do no harm to the highly polished surface at the same time, thus you need to use a premium quality microfiber, folded 4-ways to help spread out the pressure of your hand.

Now think about it, if you’re moving the microfiber quickly over the surface how much time do the residues on the surface have to transfer to the cloth? Seconds? Milliseconds? That’s not very long.

That’s why wiping like a mad man won’t remove streaks or residues and could possibly inflict swirls and scratches back into the finish.

Slow down to speed up
Instead, how about moving the polishing cloth slowly over the surface and enabling the microscopic sized fibers to get into the low portions where once they make contact with any remaining wax or polymers, the residue will have time to transfer from the paint to the cloth?

This is called the final wiping technique and most people would agree it makes sense. It also works most of the time for stubborn streaks that sometimes show up on dark colored paints but it’s also just a good technique when working on highly polished surfaces where your or your customer’s expectations are high.





If you’ve ever spent upwards of 8 hours and/or longer polishing out the paint to perfection on your car, or a customer’s car then you know how much work goes into,
  • Washing the car.
  • Evaluating the surface.
  • Claying the paint.
  • Taping off trim, body lines, emblems and badges as well as hard, thin edges.
  • Removing swirls, scratches and other paint imperfections.
  • Polishing the paint to a high gloss.
  • Applying the wax or paint sealant.
  • Removing the tape and carefully wiping off any left-over residues around body lines and trim.
  • Removing the first and subsequent coats of wax or paint sealant.


Now it’s time for the final wipe and the last thing you want is to do anything that could potentially instill any new swirls or scratches into the now pristine finish.

That’s why as you progress through the process, after each step you have to be more and more careful when wiping off any compounds or polishes and usually as you progress through the process the quality of your wiping cloth increases along with your carefulness as that’s how show car finishes are achieved. You can’t just wipe with any old towel and do it in any old way. Show car work demands focusing on the task at hand and using your best skills and your best tools to reach the goal of a flawless show car finish.

Rushing at the very end doesn’t make sense and if you instill swirls and scratches because you’re wiping off the car like a lunatic or not using your best quality polishing cloths, then that’s working backwards in the process.

Simply put, sometimes you have to slow down to speed up.

That is, sometimes using a slow wiping motion, or slow rate of travel, will be more effective at removing all trace residues and enable to reach your goal versus moving your hand and polishing cloth quickly over the paint. Sure at the end of the process you’re tired and ready to clean-up and be done with the car but the technique you use for your final wipe-down of the paint needs to be calculated, methodical and precise. And after you make the final pass and you lift your hand and polishing cloth off the paint you can stand back and admire your work and then say, “It is finished”.



:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Question,


How hot is it where you're doing this work?



:)
Click to expand...

Thank you for editing and commenting.

It was very hot (91) and humid all weekend long. I am in NJ so it gets gross.

It was locked down in the garage all weekend where I had a big floor fan running to help.
I always to a final wipe down as well after buffing off the product. Maybe just not as slow as you are speaking of but did use an ultra plush MF folded as you spoke of.

I can't imagine I put the wax on that thick as a little went a long way - the can looked like I never touched it after doing my entire truck. Inside the garage under led light it looked phenomenal.

I am afraid to try this on my prized posession Camaro.
 
I bet you used too much product. It’s ok though, after it sweats a few times give it a wash and all should be good after that.
 
91 and humid is a bad time to wax I have found.

Nothing dries in the correct manner.

That said, using a little too much is easily done without even knowing it. When in doubt about when to reload, "kiss" the applicator on a window. Do you see product?
If yes, than you have enough to continue to apply without adding more wax.

I use Collinite 476s, and the same principal applies. At first, your instinct is to dab the applicator after every couple of square feet. But you quickly learn that you can go almost an entire panel with what looks like nothing on the applicator.

Yes, you apply it THAT thin.
 
BSoares said:
I bet you used too much product. It’s ok though, after it sweats a few times give it a wash and all should be good after that.
Click to expand...

So that is what it is called, sweating? Makes complete sense. So what would happen with a light mist of ice water and a wipe before a final wipe or would make matters worse? I remember that being a trick to remove excess polish back in the day.
 
PaulMys said:
91 and humid is a bad time
to wax I have found.

Nothing dries in the correct manner.
Click to expand...
^^^:iagree:

I blame the ’Physics of Condensation’
for the phenomenon known as Waxes
“sweating” (some call it ghosting :confused:).

pittpens24 said:
So that is what it is called, sweating?
Makes complete sense.

So what would happen with a light mist
of ice water and a wipe before a final wipe
or would make matters worse?
I remember that being a trick to remove
excess polish back in the day.
Click to expand...

I’ve had success in its removal—without
any returns thereof—by using (Quick)
Detail Sprays as a “wipe-down” when
it raises its ugly head. YMMV.


Bob
 
pittpens24 said:
So that is what it is called, sweating? Makes complete sense. So what would happen with a light mist of ice water and a wipe before a final wipe or would make matters worse? I remember that being a trick to remove excess polish back in the day.
Click to expand...

Yeah. Detail spray will help remove it, at least at that time. Depending on how much product was used it may return again with heat. Eventually it stops.

Fuzion should look amazing on your car.
 
Well I will give it one more shot. Thanks for the help and tips. Tried to post a pic of the truck but it won't load. Assuming I need to make more posts before I am allowed to post pics?
 
pittpens24 said:
Well I will give it one more shot. Thanks for the help and tips. Tried to post a pic of the truck but it won't load. Assuming I need to make more posts before I am allowed to post pics?
Click to expand...

Download the TapTalk app on your phone.

Post pics all you want. :)
 
WOW!! That Camaro is awesome, man.

Glad to see the pics, and oh.... Welcome to AGO. Forgot the welcome. Lol
 
PaulMys said:
WOW!! That Camaro is awesome, man.

Glad to see the pics, and oh.... Welcome to AGO. Forgot the welcome. Lol
Click to expand...
Thx for the welcome and the tapatalk

And thx about the Camaro. Built it myself. 572BB, 6 speed trans and 4:11 9" rear. 742HP

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
 
pittpens24 said:
Thx for the welcome and the tapatalk

And thx about the Camaro. Built it myself. 572BB, 6 speed trans and 4:11 9" rear. 742HP

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

HOLY (bleep).

Very cool my man!! I hope you stick around, my good man. :)
 
Welcome to AGO. Picking-up jaw off the ground! Wow...amazing work.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
I'd skip the Blacklight. I used it years ago. I liked the results but it seriously lacked any protection. This is WG 3.0 Sealant and Fuzion on my Genesis Coupe. I won Detailing Day 2014 with this pic on another site. I did this in early September humidity in Florida. I use my Rupes Mini to apply Fuzion in a very thin coat.


c316382bc1d01b424fd3ab8649d8d3c9.jpg


Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
custmsprty said:
I'd skip the Blacklight. I used it years ago. I liked the results but it seriously lacked any protection. This is WG 3.0 Sealant and Fuzion on my Genesis Coupe. I won Detailing Day 2014 with this pic on another site. I did this in early September humidity in Florida. I use my Rupes Mini to apply Fuzion in a very thin coat.
c316382bc1d01b424fd3ab8649d8d3c9.jpg


Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
Click to expand...
Wow that looks great! Next time around I will apply by machine to get a thinner coat.
I agree about no protection with the Blacklight but it is just for that deep gloss. You saying the sealant looks better alone than the Blacklight topped with the Wgps?

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
 
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