New to machine polishing, some questions....

B

bigterp

New member
Joined
Jul 16, 2019
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Recently picked up an '04 F-150 with 57K miles. Truck is in excellent cosmetic shape, especially considering it's 15 years old. One owner, and by the looks of it I'm guessing garage kept. Planning on picking up the Harbor Freight DA polisher to start taking care of the F-150 as well as my wife's '16 Ford Flex. I've already ordered a 5" backing plate to replace the HF one so I can use LC 5.5" flat pads. I know there are "better" DA's out there, but for a hobbyist like myself the HF DA will suffice. My goals are to remove surface defects on the F-150 while also improving the overall paint appearance. For my wife's Flex there are very few surface scratches and blemishes on otherwise excellent paint. Just looking to correct the few surface blemishes and polishing everything else. After doing a TON of reading and research, I feel like I have a very firm grasp on machine polishing basics. But still have a few questions before I dive in.......

The paint on my F-150 (medium wedgewood metallic) is in great shape. No oxidation and hardly any noticeable swirl marks. However, there are several surface scratches, marrings, bird dropping stains, etc. that I'd like to address. These are scattered around the truck on most panels. My plan is to do a test area on one of the panels with the scratches or marring (obviously after washing and claying) using an LC orange pad w/ Meguiars Ultimate Compound, then followed up with Meguiars Ultimate polish on one of the LC finishing pads, but not sure which one. Black, white, green? While addressing a panel with the scratches and marrings using the LC orange pad and compound, do you apply more pressure and spend more time to the defective areas and less pressure/time on the better paint on the panel? Basically I'm trying to understand how to work an entire section with the same pad and compound where there are defects but also "good"paint. I'm thinking pressure and working time are the key, but just want to make sure.

With all of that said, do you guys agree the Meguairs UC and UP with LC flat pads are good choices for myself? I'm not looking for showroom new, but would like to remove defects and improve the paint on the F-150 as well as improve and get some pop/shine to my wife's Flex (grey/silver metallic paint). In regards to pads, what colors do you guys recommend? I'm planning on orange for the first step on my F-150 with Meguiars UC, but am not sure on what color for my second step using Meguiars UP. I'm not sure if the Flex will need the aggression of an orange pad with UC, but testing will tell. Either way I'd like to use the same color pad for the UP application on the Flex as the F-150. I'm thinking Orange with UC then white or green with UP. Thoughts?

Black pad to apply wax? Have a new tube of Collinite 845 that I want to give a try. Any tips on applying a liquid wax by machine?

And lastly, how does this look pad wise to get going on two vehicles (not done at the same time).

Orange (compounding) - 6
White/Green (polishing)- 4
Black (wax application) - 2

Any other tips/suggestions are much appreciated!!
 
I would go and look at the review of the new version of the Harbor Freight DA polisher on Apex Detailing Channel on Youtube. Seems like a bump down in the quality build vs the old version from them. I would highly consider the Griots Garage 6" polisher. As you know you have a polisher for many years. And also the warrenty is excellent from them if something happens. The extra cost of the GG6 can be well worth it in the longrun.

Have not experience with the LC pads. But generally speaking it's hard to say what will work in the cutting step or not. And the polishing is a little easier as it's get you the gloss and think that you will be fine with the white pads from them. Maybe consider the Meguiars D300 compound instead of the UC. It's works great on foam pads too and you have a compound if needed to be stepping up to a mf cutting pad from Meguiars. If going with UC you can make some extra passes per sections to get more cut and a higher speed setting. The pressure applyied on a DA you don't get so much out of. As it's useally slows down the pad rotation. Like firmly hand shake and steer the polisher and you are good. Also marking the backing plate to see that you maintain the pad rotation is a great thing to do.

Useally you go with the same amount of passes per sections and armspeed to get an uniform level down on the paint. If you have some deeper defects you can work them an extra set of passes per sections with a reload of the UC. To just spot buff smaller sections.
 
Thanks for the reply.

Bummer on the new HF DA!!
 
I would look into the Meguires Microfiber Cutting Pads and d300. By using this you ca remove most scratches that are not down to the primer and even make those look better. The HF polisher needs help powerwise and the Megs microfiber pads are light and spin faster. Follow up with a finishing pad and polish. If you are using was d301 or d302 has wax and a fine polish and would be a good base for Collinite.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
I would look into the Meguires Microfiber Cutting Pads and d300. By using this you ca remove most scratches that are not down to the primer and even make those look better. The HF polisher needs help powerwise and the Megs microfiber pads are light and spin faster. Follow up with a finishing pad and polish. If you are using was d301 or d302 has wax and a fine polish and would be a good base for Collinite.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I already have Meguiars UC and UP on hand. Sounds like I need to consider a better quality DA. I think I'm going to end up going with the Griot's Garage DA. The review of the new HF DA in the video from the 2nd post was less than encouraging!! I was also eyeing up the PC 7424XP, but for a few bucks more I can get the Griot's, which seems to be one of the higher recommended ones here on this forum.

With the Griot's Garage DA instead of the Harbor Freight DA, how does my plan from my original post sound?
 
Sounds like a good start to me,the GG is a workhorse with a great warranty.
 
I agree with others, the GG6 would be the best bang for the dollar, yes, a little bit more money than a HF, but there's also piece of mind, a lifetime warrantee with the Griots. The PC is a good machine too, I have one, but most will tell you the Griots is a bit more powerful, less tendency to stall.

You can outfit the Griots with a number of backing plates as well, to correspond with Pads in the 3", 4", and 5,5" sizes.

See where you get with the Megs Polish first before resorting to the compound. You can always spot polish here and there with the compound if there are some areas not cleaning up well with the polish first, then return to the polish again for the highest luster and shine.

The LC Flat Pads are of high quality, but you can burn up any pad by overworking them, so have a decent number of a couple-few different densities, and then get in the habit of after polishing a couple panels, swap out for a clean fresh one and begin again where you left off.
 
No matter what machine you use. Just do a test spot starting with the finest pad and finest polish you have and keep going up in grit and coarseness until you get what you want. Then, that is the pad and compound choice you should go with.

In the end, what you’re doing is levelling paint. You want to get to the end result using the finest pad and polish combo you can.
 
DirtyCanuck said:
No matter what machine you use. Just do a test spot starting with the finest pad and finest polish you have and keep going up in grit and coarseness until you get what you want. Then, that is the pad and compound choice you should go with.

In the end, what you’re doing is levelling paint. You want to get to the end result using the finest pad and polish combo you can.
Click to expand...

Great advice. Thanks!!

I'm going to order the 12 pack mix-n-match of the LC flat pads. Should be plenty to get me going. Going with 5 orange (cutting/compounding), 5 white or green (polishing) and 2 black (wax application). I'm sort of torn on the polishing pad between the white and green. Afraid the white might be too aggressive for a final polish, but also afraid the green might not clean up well enough after the orange with Ultimate Compound. Am I over thinking this?
 
Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips

the GG6 has been a proven workhorse for over a decade and is the one polisher (before long stroke polishers entered the market) that helped push the envelope (torque/power/quality build) towards other polishers we have currently have now. equip it with the different size backing plate and pads, there isn't really much you can't tackle with it. i've had my 2nd gen GG6 since they came out and it's one tool i wouldn't be without...

p.s. apparently with the new (bauer) hf da, there are two different versions of it like with the previous one. still though, i would rather save up and buy the GG6 and do it right from the start...


btw, Brian/Apex Detail has no bias towards any brand and will honestly say what he feels about any product/tool (IIRC, there's only one brand that he's not fond of and will not buy anymore of their tools). here he proves that the GG polishers are both quality inside and out...
 
Sounds like you have gotten yourself a sweet vehicle.

Vehicle maintenance of course goes further than just a clean shiny vehicle. A simple dog bath, and wax, and a basic good interior clean-up/detail will hold you for a bit, until you get all your ducks in a row.

Not sure how handy and mechanically proficient you are, but I'd also pay high attention to oil changes, possibly tranny fluid and filter changes, checking all fluids, brakes, hoses, belts, filters, plugs, axle fluids, wiper blades, and all other common items, oh, and tires.

Best to know you got all those things taken care of, a shiny, dead truck on the side of the road won't be doing you much good.

Yeah, I know well, that by the time the smoke clears, it could be multiple hundreds of dollars invested, but I'd rather spend that money there first, before investing in polishers pads, and a vast array of detailing goods, at least at first.

Trust that I, like hundreds of others here know well, Autogeek is highly addictive! :-) Many of us plain ole "hobbyists" here have more detailing supplies and tools on hand than many professional detailing shops! LOL
 
MarkD51 said:
Sounds like you have gotten yourself a sweet vehicle.

Vehicle maintenance of course goes further than just a clean shiny vehicle. A simple dog bath, and wax, and a basic good interior clean-up/detail will hold you for a bit, until you get all your ducks in a row.

Not sure how handy and mechanically proficient you are, but I'd also pay high attention to oil changes, possibly tranny fluid and filter changes, checking all fluids, brakes, hoses, belts, filters, plugs, axle fluids, wiper blades, and all other common items, oh, and tires.

Best to know you got all those things taken care of, a shiny, dead truck on the side of the road won't be doing you much good.

Yeah, I know well, that by the time the smoke clears, it could be multiple hundreds of dollars invested, but I'd rather spend that money there first, before investing in polishers pads, and a vast array of detailing goods, at least at first.

Trust that I, like hundreds of others here know well, Autogeek is highly addictive! :-) Many of us plain ole "hobbyists" here have more detailing supplies and tools on hand than many professional detailing shops! LOL
Click to expand...

Oh yeah. Already on top of all of the maintenance issues. I had an '07 F-150 that I traded for the '04. Kind of odd going back 3 years, but it gained me nearly 100K miles and the extra room of a crew cab, which I desperately needed to fit my 2.5 year old son and 3 month old daughter. It has the 5.4L 3V Triton, same as my '07. So I'm very familiar with these particular motors. Doing the dreaded plug change myself as well as changing my own diff fluids (front and rear), soft transmission fluid change (don't like flushes) while adding a Dorman pan with drain plug and transfer case fluid change. Have a new power steering line (cooler to reservoir) on the way as we speak. Mines corroded/rusted pretty bad and needs swapped out. Other than that, there isn't much else that needs addressed. The dealership replaced a few things before putting it on the lot (IWE solenoids, locking hubs, cowl trim, serpentine belt, exhaust, alignment and an oil change). Hoping my preemptive maintenance that I'll be doing at 60k will keep this thing running for a LONG time. That's why I need to keep it shiny :)
 
bigterp said:
Oh yeah. Already on top of all of the maintenance issues. I had an '07 F-150 that I traded for the '04. Kind of odd going back 3 years, but it gained me nearly 100K miles and the extra room of a crew cab, which I desperately needed to fit my 2.5 year old son and 3 month old daughter. It has the 5.4L 3V Triton, same as my '07. So I'm very familiar with these particular motors. Doing the dreaded plug change myself as well as changing my own diff fluids (front and rear), soft transmission fluid change (don't like flushes) while adding a Dorman pan with drain plug and transfer case fluid change. Have a new power steering line (cooler to reservoir) on the way as we speak. Mines corroded/rusted pretty bad and needs swapped out. Other than that, there isn't much else that needs addressed. The dealership replaced a few things before putting it on the lot (IWE solenoids, locking hubs, cowl trim, serpentine belt, exhaust, alignment and an oil change). Hoping my preemptive maintenance that I'll be doing at 60k will keep this thing running for a LONG time. That's why I need to keep it shiny :)
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention to you, I'm wishing you a great big welcome to this forum, it's a fantastic place, and all of us are really great people to interact, learn from, and share with.

I myself, just a hack is all, own 3 polishers, two bought here, the PC7424XP, and Griots Boss 15. And a new Baby Grots 3" that I caught off of ebay dirt cheap. Have enough products, tools, pads and everything else on hand to detail a couple large dealership's inventories! LOL

And although I thought I was some master before I joined here, and am in fact pretty meticulous and knowledgeable before I ever joined, and owned many sweet vehicles in my day, I enhanced my knowledge and mastery vastly since becoming a member here. Best thing I ever did as far as enhancing my detailing expertise.

Enjoy your membership here, hopefully it will be a long and very rewarding one for you!
 
If it were me, I would save up if need be and get a flex 3401, 4 7/8 backing plate (I think that's the size), and LC 5.5 hybrid force pads. You'll never go back. Literally cuts your time in half. Skip all the others, because you're going to want to upgrade
 
Be sure to place yourself on Autogeek's Mailing list. There are many great sales throughout the year, BOGO's, free shipping, very deep discounts on products, and sometimes even tools, chargers, car covers, etc. Sometimes the sales have exceptions, and on some occasions, no exceptions, 15%, 20%, and once in a blue moon even 25% off!

Autogeek also has a sister site, called Autopia. (Same parent company, Palm Beach Motoring Group)There too there are good sales, good members, and great share of information.

When you order from either site, packing is exemplary, and highly professional, boxes packed where you could throw the entire box down a flight of stairs, it ain't opening up! Heavy duty tapes used on boxes, often bottles-jars are additionally tape secured, and all padded well.

I can't say enough good. And if there's ever a problem, no need to worry, they have your back, and will take care of any-all matters pronto! They will also price match commonly if you see something on sale elsewhere.

When they have the big sales, and free shipping, on whatever minimum dollar amount spent, and sometimes no minimum order, that's the time I'd often stock up on bulk containers, gallons of products such as tire dressings, towel cleaners, Shampoos, detailing sprays, and items along these lines.
 
One more little tidbit I'd like sharing with you, and others who perhaps have never tried them.

To not ever discount Autogeek's-Autopia's house brands such as Pinnacle, Wolfgang, Blackfire, McKees.

Although you'll never see these products sold in the big box stores, none of them can be termed "generic" in any sense.

All are cutting edge, state of the art products, which usually have little to no peer. Let's take the Wolfgang line for example. Every product is killer. Pad cleaners, pad conditioners, their Deep Gloss Sealant is one of the finest I've ever had the pleasure of using.

Again, Pinnacle, and Blackfire, outstanding! I have a whole lot of these products in my arsenal, their polishes, detailer sprays, etc.

Not that thee aren't many other fine products, almost too many to count! Sonax, Optimum, Ultima, Collinte, Meguiars, on and on!
 
mckobe said:
If it were me, I would save up if need be and get a flex 3401, 4 7/8 backing plate (I think that's the size), and LC 5.5 hybrid force pads. You'll never go back. Literally cuts your time in half. Skip all the others, because you're going to want to upgrade
Click to expand...

IMO every detailer/enthusiast should own at least one pc-style DA and it's more of a jack of all trades compared to other polishers...
 
VISITOR said:
IMO every detailer/enthusiast should own at least one pc-style DA and it's more of a jack of all trades compared to other polishers...
Click to expand...

Way easier to learn with in my opinion.

AND....... if you are just doing your own well-cared for cars, they are honestly all you need.
 
PaulMys said:
Way easier to learn with I'm my opinion.

AND....... if you are just doing your own well-cared for cars, they are honestly all you need.
Click to expand...

also, the GG6/PC are more ergonomic/easier to handle with one hand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top