Problem with Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash

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lkaten

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I've used the Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash a couple time on my 2012 Diamond White Yukon Denali and on my 2019 Orang Sunset Metallic BMW 330i and have been very happy. I have Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant on both and routinely use Wolfgang Auto Bathe for washes with Pinnacle Liquid Spray Wax after most washes. However, the last time I used the SiO2 Coating Wash on my BMW I ended up with several spots of smeared "goup" which have stayed on the paint. After talking to tech support at Autogeek, I think some of that panels may have gotten too hot as the sun came up before I could finish the wash. The smears don't wash off with Auto Bathe, and don't come off with Car Pro's Tar-X or Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer. I've ordered some CarPro Eraser to try and remove them. Just wondering if anybody has also encountered this and may have any tips. Thanks

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I do think Uber has issues with being in the sun. I had blotches after using it this weekend, which cleared up with some APC. They weren't as bad as yours, though. McKees 37 SiO2 wash is what I'm going back to, it works fine in the sun.
 
Can't say I've had any issues like that with this product. Though any soap is going to leave marks if it dries in the sun prior to being rinsed. Did you use too strong a mixture perhaps??
 
I can only mention what I think of when washing with these kind of stronger protection car soaps. The recommended dilution is important to follow as they bond so quickly you risk to get streaking with stronger dilution than the recommended. I wash and rinse very thoroughly so I see that soapy foam is off the car after the rinse. And also the warmer temperature I wash in the smaller sections I wash and rinse off. As the roof and rinse and if not so warm outside I take the windows and the panels around them and rinse thoroughly. Then the hood and front and maybe the fenders and rinse off and so on. And again it's very important to get the soap off the whole vehical when you rinse and not just the panels you washed. Cause even when very diluted it still bonds to the paint and if it's warm and the water evaporate. You get the protection to getting like high spots like it looks from your pictures.

It will be wearing off if you don't seal the high spots/smearing in again. Or you would could use some polish on mf applicator pad and polishing them off. The thickness of the smearing high spots is way thicker than the rest of the protection layer. And since it's so durable it takes longer for it to wear down. The other problem is that the SiO2 protection products is very chemical resistant. So stripping a newly cured high spot take a very aggressive chemical to remove it. If you are fast and notice these directly after the wash. You can maybe reactivate it with the car soap solution and re-wash it and the like desolves the like can be helping you out.

And the down side is when washing hot panels and or in the sun. If the sun comes up small sections and work fast and rinse off it very thoroughly. Before you wash the section rinse it for a little longer time before you wash. So when you touch the panel it has cooled down from the rinse water and you get a longer working time when you wash and rinse off with the über SiO2 Wash. These kind of SiO2 car soaps is like the spray on rinse off products but you apply it on the same time as you wash. But it's the same kind of thoughts to have when rinse it off and how large of a sections you wash or apply them. Also that you don't use it on hot panels and out of the sunlight as that speeds up the cureing from them and you are not able to rinse them off before they have cured more than it should. So you get streaking and smearing.

Another thing with these stronger SiO2 protection car soaps. Is like with any stronger LSP if you use them too often and to close in time for a couple of times. The paint gets saturated with what it can build up on the protection from these products. And less is able to bond and it gets harder to rinse it off clearly and you get streaking and smearing from them. So a product like this I would not use more than every other week or every month. And in between a car soap that leaves nothing behind or if wanted to maybe some glossenhancers.

Did I mention that you need to be rinsing these kind of products very thoroughly off the vehical. Sorry but this is so important to do to not get a mess from them. And out of the sunlight and work in smaller sections than wash the whole car before you rinse it off. If you don't do this the risk of getting streaking/smearing/high spots gets very high.

/ Tony
 
Your going to need a light polish to remove those spots. What happened is the wash solution dried on you there. I love this shampoo and the protection it leave behind is unrivaled. The downside is you can’t let it dry at all. Must work small sections then rinse. Anyway, a fine polish will fix that then just follow with your LSP of choice. Eraser isn’t going to help.
 
Dr Oldz said:
Your going to need a light polish to remove those spots. What happened is the wash solution dried on you there. I love this shampoo and the protection it leave behind is unrivaled. The downside is you can’t let it dry at all. Must work small sections then rinse. Anyway, a fine polish will fix that then just follow with your LSP of choice. Eraser isn’t going to help.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jim,
Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer didn't take it off. Would you have a suggestion for a polish to use for this?

Louie
 
SWETM said:
I can only mention what I think of when washing with these kind of stronger protection car soaps. The recommended dilution is important to follow as they bond so quickly you risk to get streaking with stronger dilution than the recommended. I wash and rinse very thoroughly so I see that soapy foam is off the car after the rinse. And also the warmer temperature I wash in the smaller sections I wash and rinse off. As the roof and rinse and if not so warm outside I take the windows and the panels around them and rinse thoroughly. Then the hood and front and maybe the fenders and rinse off and so on. And again it's very important to get the soap off the whole vehical when you rinse and not just the panels you washed. Cause even when very diluted it still bonds to the paint and if it's warm and the water evaporate. You get the protection to getting like high spots like it looks from your pictures.

It will be wearing off if you don't seal the high spots/smearing in again. Or you would could use some polish on mf applicator pad and polishing them off. The thickness of the smearing high spots is way thicker than the rest of the protection layer. And since it's so durable it takes longer for it to wear down. The other problem is that the SiO2 protection products is very chemical resistant. So stripping a newly cured high spot take a very aggressive chemical to remove it. If you are fast and notice these directly after the wash. You can maybe reactivate it with the car soap solution and re-wash it and the like desolves the like can be helping you out.

And the down side is when washing hot panels and or in the sun. If the sun comes up small sections and work fast and rinse off it very thoroughly. Before you wash the section rinse it for a little longer time before you wash. So when you touch the panel it has cooled down from the rinse water and you get a longer working time when you wash and rinse off with the über SiO2 Wash. These kind of SiO2 car soaps is like the spray on rinse off products but you apply it on the same time as you wash. But it's the same kind of thoughts to have when rinse it off and how large of a sections you wash or apply them. Also that you don't use it on hot panels and out of the sunlight as that speeds up the cureing from them and you are not able to rinse them off before they have cured more than it should. So you get streaking and smearing.

Another thing with these stronger SiO2 protection car soaps. Is like with any stronger LSP if you use them too often and to close in time for a couple of times. The paint gets saturated with what it can build up on the protection from these products. And less is able to bond and it gets harder to rinse it off clearly and you get streaking and smearing from them. So a product like this I would not use more than every other week or every month. And in between a car soap that leaves nothing behind or if wanted to maybe some glossenhancers.

Did I mention that you need to be rinsing these kind of products very thoroughly off the vehical. Sorry but this is so important to do to not get a mess from them. And out of the sunlight and work in smaller sections than wash the whole car before you rinse it off. If you don't do this the risk of getting streaking/smearing/high spots gets very high.

/ Tony
Click to expand...
Thanks Tony,
I definitely didn't realize how sensitive this wash is to the sun and heat. Thought I was washing and rinsing fast enough...and was washing before the sun came up. However, I'm in Colorado at about 6800 ft elevation. The sun is pretty intense. Won't make that mistake again!
 
986DTM said:
Can't say I've had any issues like that with this product. Though any soap is going to leave marks if it dries in the sun prior to being rinsed. Did you use too strong a mixture perhaps??
Click to expand...


Thanks...I don't think so. I'm pretty careful about measuring how much I use.
 
lkaten said:
Thanks Jim,
Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer didn't take it off. Would you have a suggestion for a polish to use for this?

Louie
Click to expand...

Something like megs ultimate polish, 205, 210 or any finer polish you have.just so it has some light abrasives in it.
 
986DTM said:
Can't say I've had any issues like that with this product. Though any soap is going to leave marks if it dries in the sun prior to being rinsed. Did you use too strong a mixture perhaps??
Click to expand...

The bottle says something like "mix up to 2 ounces to 3-5 gallons of water" which isn't super precise to begin with.
 
bofh said:
The bottle says something like "mix up to 2 ounces to 3-5 gallons of water" which isn't super precise to begin with.
Click to expand...


Take the average and mix .5 oz per gallon.


Yea this stuff is expensive but if used properly and carefully.... it is amazing.
 
The Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash is a great product. It looks like the paint surface was either too hot or the Coating Wash dried on the surface from being applied in direct sunlight. Always make sure the paint surface is cool to the touch and work in a nice shaded area. Work in smaller sections and rinse often.

Polish or One Step products will remove the Uber Sio2 Coating Wash from your vehicle. Once you polish your paint surface, go ahead and reapply the Deep Gloss Paint Sealant and maintain it with the Uber SiO2 Coating Wash.
 
Bobby B. said:
The Wolfgang Uber SiO2 Coating Wash is a great product. It looks like the paint surface was either too hot or the Coating Wash dried on the surface from being applied in direct sunlight. Always make sure the paint surface is cool to the touch and work in a nice shaded area. Work in smaller sections and rinse often.

Polish or One Step products will remove the Uber Sio2 Coating Wash from your vehicle. Once you polish your paint surface, go ahead and reapply the Deep Gloss Paint Sealant and maintain it with the Uber SiO2 Coating Wash.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bobby. Do you think WG Total Swirl Remover would work to take it off?
 
So...tried Finishing Glaze and that didn't take it off. Then tried WG Total Swirl Remover and that didn't work either. Just for fun, tried Eraser. That didn't work either. I applied the Finishing Glaze and TSW by hand. Any other thoughts?
 
lkaten said:
So...tried Finishing Glaze and that didn't take it off. Then tried WG Total Swirl Remover and that didn't work either. Just for fun, tried Eraser. That didn't work either. I applied the Finishing Glaze and TSW by hand. Any other thoughts?
Click to expand...

What did you use to apply them with?

I would use a mf applicator pad/sponge to get a little more bite from it. Move the pad back and forth with some pressure and try to keep the pad on the smears. Somewhere around 8-12 passes and wipe it off and inspect.

Did your polishing not make a little dent in the smearing at all?

It's needed to be casious so you don't abrade too much of the paint off. If you have smaller places where you have and you use a mf towel to polishing with by wrap it around some fingers. Remember with much pressure and it's easy to do many passes this can get very aggressive combo.

A polisher would be to prefer as you get the pressure so much more spread out on the pad. And it's movement is superior to the hand movement.

They don't seem to be so bad in how thick the smears are. I don't want to scare you but I have seen one useing Gyeon Wet Coat in a very wrong way. He covered the wet car with a lot of it over the whole car. Took his time and thought about it like a wax. When he rinsed it off almost non came off and he had a thick layer covered the whole car. A detailer helped him out but he had to wet sanding the most off with P3000 grit on a sander. Then polishing it up again. The plastic trim and rubber seals was not anything he could be doing with. Luckly it didn't look as bad as the paint and glass was. This is not adressed at you but generally. We will see more of these happens with the spray on rinse off product and infused car soaps that leaves SiO2 behind. As many don't read the descriptions and also maybe as you don't think it can go so bad with a little sun out when you use these kind of products. The problem gets when you going to try to get it off. You have a short window of time after you have used it to maybe be able to reactivate it with the same product or useing a strong chemical and also a polish to get it off. But that you have some hours at most to correcting it. If you wait over a day or more the more it has cured and the more difficult it will be to get it off. I have mentioned this before in some threads that when it gets we get more access to these OTC. We will see more of these situations come.

I really hope that you can fix this by polishing it off. Just be carefull when you are not over the smears. Try to work in very small sections when you polishing. Not larger than around 5"×5" of the area that you are polishing. When you have reach through the smear it's useally visual when you wipe the polish off. And when you have done that stay away from the TSR and switch to the Finishing Glaze to do the last polishing with. It's going to take a lot of elbow grease into this.

/ Tony
 
lkaten said:
So...tried Finishing Glaze and that didn't take it off. Then tried WG Total Swirl Remover and that didn't work either. Just for fun, tried Eraser. That didn't work either. I applied the Finishing Glaze and TSW by hand. Any other thoughts?
Click to expand...

Wow! That's amazing durability if it didn't come off with either the Finishing Glaze or Total Swirl Remover. I would try them again with a DA Polisher and some light cutting / polishing pads. You shouldn't have to go as aggressive as a Compound. I've had no issues removing SiO2 staining in paint with just a light polish.
 
lkaten said:
So...tried Finishing Glaze and that didn't take it off. Then tried WG Total Swirl Remover and that didn't work either. Just for fun, tried Eraser. That didn't work either. I applied the Finishing Glaze and TSW by hand. Any other thoughts?
Click to expand...

I'm thinking its from something else and you just don't realize it. Soap doesn't cause permanent damage like that. It's gotta be something that got on there that you didnt notice until after you wash the car.
 
SWETM said:
What did you use to apply them with?

I would use a mf applicator pad/sponge to get a little more bite from it. Move the pad back and forth with some pressure and try to keep the pad on the smears. Somewhere around 8-12 passes and wipe it off and inspect.

Did your polishing not make a little dent in the smearing at all?

It's needed to be casious so you don't abrade too much of the paint off. If you have smaller places where you have and you use a mf towel to polishing with by wrap it around some fingers. Remember with much pressure and it's easy to do many passes this can get very aggressive combo.

A polisher would be to prefer as you get the pressure so much more spread out on the pad. And it's movement is superior to the hand movement.

They don't seem to be so bad in how thick the smears are. I don't want to scare you but I have seen one useing Gyeon Wet Coat in a very wrong way. He covered the wet car with a lot of it over the whole car. Took his time and thought about it like a wax. When he rinsed it off almost non came off and he had a thick layer covered the whole car. A detailer helped him out but he had to wet sanding the most off with P3000 grit on a sander. Then polishing it up again. The plastic trim and rubber seals was not anything he could be doing with. Luckly it didn't look as bad as the paint and glass was. This is not adressed at you but generally. We will see more of these happens with the spray on rinse off product and infused car soaps that leaves SiO2 behind. As many don't read the descriptions and also maybe as you don't think it can go so bad with a little sun out when you use these kind of products. The problem gets when you going to try to get it off. You have a short window of time after you have used it to maybe be able to reactivate it with the same product or useing a strong chemical and also a polish to get it off. But that you have some hours at most to correcting it. If you wait over a day or more the more it has cured and the more difficult it will be to get it off. I have mentioned this before in some threads that when it gets we get more access to these OTC. We will see more of these situations come.

I really hope that you can fix this by polishing it off. Just be carefull when you are not over the smears. Try to work in very small sections when you polishing. Not larger than around 5"×5" of the area that you are polishing. When you have reach through the smear it's useally visual when you wipe the polish off. And when you have done that stay away from the TSR and switch to the Finishing Glaze to do the last polishing with. It's going to take a lot of elbow grease into this.

/ Tony
Click to expand...

Thanks Tony,
I noticed some very light smudges that did come off with Finishing Glaze and TSW. For the most part, the smears did not show improvement. I suppose it would be logical to use my DA polisher. I'm not very comfortable using it yet, so wanted to give it a try by hand first. Thanks for your advice.
 
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