Paint Coating Product Advice

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ScottStoef

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I'm wanting to put a ceramic on my 2011 Corvette Grand Sport. I have been correcting the paint and the clear coat seems to be a bit "soft". There are still a lot of scratches that I cannot get out, but I am afraid to do any more corrections on it. I do not know the paint thickness so I am going to take it to a professional. I've been using Griot's Garage (GG) Complete Compound with an orange Lake Country cutting pad for corrections. I followed that up with the GG Complete on a LC white polishing pad.

I did a bunch of research and I think I finally have it narrowed down to the following products. I have never coated a car, but I know I can do it, so something "user" friendly is important. I don't want to sacrifice a durable coating though. I know it will not prevent scratches and swirls, but even if it helps a little bit I will be happy.

Anything else I am missing from my list (GYEON) or specific recommendations? I almost fell into the Avalon King trap, but I followed my gut and stayed with the AG family of products.
 
I have only used Cquartz UK from that list, but have used both v2 and v3 several times and really like it.

I find it easy to apply, looks good, and has really good durability.
 
ScottStoef said:
I'm wanting to put a ceramic on my 2011 Corvette Grand Sport. I have been correcting the paint and the clear coat seems to be a bit "soft". There are still a lot of scratches that I cannot get out, but I am afraid to do any more corrections on it. I do not know the paint thickness so I am going to take it to a professional. I've been using Griot's Garage (GG) Complete Compound with an orange Lake Country cutting pad for corrections. I followed that up with the GG Complete on a LC white polishing pad.

I did a bunch of research and I think I finally have it narrowed down to the following products. I have never coated a car, but I know I can do it, so something "user" friendly is important. I don't want to sacrifice a durable coating though. I know it will not prevent scratches and swirls, but even if it helps a little bit I will be happy.

Anything else I am missing from my list (GYEON) or specific recommendations? I almost fell into the Avalon King trap, but I followed my gut and stayed with the AG family of products.
Click to expand...

I have found the paint on this year corvette to be on the hard side. So it sounds like the compound and pad you have is not removing the defects on the hard paint. If you have a microfiber pad you could give it a test spot with the current compound you have and see if that removes the harder defects. I had the same experience on my 02 SS, my dad's 02 Z28, and my cousins 2010 Camaro. These required a microfiber cutting pad to remove the defects.

Based on my experience I would choose Cquartz UK 3.0. It has proven to be a very good coating that just performs very well. I would even recommend topping it with Gliss to get that extra gloss but more importantly adding that slickness. It will take a couple panels for you to get the hang of the coating. And don't worry about high spots and just focus on the application and removal process.

Pinnacle's coatings are the easiest to use.

GTechniq CSL is nice to work with in terms of application but it needs Exo to add that hydrophobic property. It is pretty good but Cquartz alone beats it in durability and overall performance.

I would not bother looking at Gyeon other than CanCoat. Cquartz and Gtechniq are better than their Synchro coating based on my experience.

Be sure to get yourself a prep product like Eraser and get yourself some good towels like the edgeless 300 from that rag company. Use two towels, one for the initial removal and the second for the final wipe. You will cycle your towels once all sides are used and you notice that you are just pushing product around.

I bombarded you with a lot of information. Feel free to ask more questions.
 
ScottStoef said:
I'm wanting to put a ceramic on my 2011 Corvette Grand Sport. I have been correcting the paint and the clear coat seems to be a bit "soft". There are still a lot of scratches that I cannot get out, but I am afraid to do any more corrections on it.
Click to expand...

I've buffed out a boat load of Vettes and like Michael aka The Guz, I have found the clears on most modern Corvettes to more on the hard side than on the soft or medium side.

That said, if it's a daily driver I wouldn't chase after each and ever scratch, in fact, I'll write a brand new article explaining what I do and share it here.



ScottStoef said:
I do not know the paint thickness so I am going to take it to a professional.
Click to expand...

Unless they have a real expensive Paint Thickness Gauge, they won't be able to measure the paint thickness on composite body panels. Even if they have the right gauge, it likely will only read total film thickness, not individual layers.

Instead, read this article and then after doing your best, take a rest and move forward. Don't turn detailing your car into Rocket Science.


The two reasons WHY you should always do a Test Spot before buffing out any car

Read the part under reason #2 in the above article,

2: To figure out the least aggressive approach






ScottStoef said:
I've been using Griot's Garage (GG) Complete Compound with an orange Lake Country cutting pad for corrections. I followed that up with the GG Complete on a LC white polishing pad.
Click to expand...

I've used the Griot's Complete Compound a couple times. It works well but the wipe-off can be a tick on the sticky side. Moving forward, check out their BOSS line of products. Get the BOSS Correction Cream. It's a great compound. I show the BOSS system in all my classes. I'd trust it on any black car and that means something in my book.




ScottStoef said:
I did a bunch of research and I think I finally have it narrowed down to the following products. I have never coated a car, but I know I can do it, so something "user" friendly is important. I don't want to sacrifice a durable coating though. I know it will not prevent scratches and swirls, but even if it helps a little bit I will be happy.
Anything else I am missing from my list (GYEON) or specific recommendations? I almost fell into the Avalon King trap, but I followed my gut and stayed with the AG family of products.
Click to expand...


All three of those are quality products. The PBL Surface Coating is the easiest to use and also re-apply. This is also my go-to for a glass coating. Love this stuff. One of my favorite products. I wish it wasn't so expensive.

Side story - I taught a Roadshow Class in Powel, Ohio last summer, the owner, Richie Dillinger shared a story with me after the class. A few years ago when the PBL line was first introduced, I think this was in 2013, on the last day of SEMA (in 2013), Richie stopped by the Autogeek Booth and offered to buy the open bottle of PBL Surface Coating I was demonstrating. For anyone that has never been to SEMA and specifically, for anyone that has never WORKED a booth at SEMA - on the last day you SELL EVERYTHING!

If you don't sell it you have to pack it up and then in a few weeks un-pack it. So as a ritual, about 3:00pm on Friday at SEMA if it isn't nailed down it's for sale and if it is nailed down we have a hammer that can remove nails.

To cut to the chase, Richie told me after returning home with the PBL Surface Coating, he washed and prepped his Corvette for the coating and then installed it. (wipe on, wipe off), then he let the other shoe drop. It's still o their to this day.

That's the fall of 2013 to now. That's 6 years. I didn't walk out to the back of the shop yard where the Vette was parked to inspect it but from where I stood it looked good. Richie owns a full fledged car and boat detailing shop. If he thought he needed to remove it and start fresh he certainly had the time.


Anyway back to your question. I would suggest pick from one of these,

Gtechniq C1 Crystal Lacquer and top it with the EXO - I show this combo in my class.

CarPro CQuartz UK Edition

Pinnacle Black Label Paint Coating topped with the Surface Coating - this is what I use on the wife's car


All three are quality products. Like the Guz said, the PBL is the easiest to apply.



:)
 
Always kind of weird to quote yourself but here goes...


Mike Phillips said:
I've buffed out a boat load of Vettes and like Michael aka The Guz, I have found the clears on most modern Corvettes to more on the hard side than on the soft or medium side.

That said, if it's a daily driver I wouldn't chase after each and ever scratch, in fact, I'll write a brand new article explaining what I do and share it here.
Click to expand...


True to word, here it is. This took me about 25 minutes to think out. The typing is fast, it's the thinking part that takes a few minutes.


When to stop buffing - Or - How far should you go to remove swirls and scratches?


Here's a quote I like and share a lot,

Thinking is the hardest work there is, which is probably the reason why so few engage in it. - Henry Ford


Hope the article helps...


:)
 
Thank you everyone for your thoughts and opinions. I especially want to thank Guz and Mike for going that extra mile to help me out. I'm sure I am worried about the possibility of going through the clear coat on a car I just got a month ago. It is better to be safe than DIVORCED! I guess what you are saying about the hardness makes sense. Even after I compounded and polished the area the only thing removed were the minor swirl marks. Don't get me wrong it looks A LOT better. I was just surprised the "scuffs" didn't come out, especially since I couldn't catch anything with my fingernail.

I will definitely read the articles you have Mike, and I appreciate you putting one together to help me out.

Best Regards!
 
I ended up getting the PBL Paint and Surface Coating. Based on Mike's comment, I should apply the paint coating first and then a topcoat of Surface coating. Is my understanding correct? How long do I need to let the paint coating cure before applying the topcoat?

If I remember correctly, I can only put the paint coating on anything with an applied clear coat finish. I had my headlights professionally cleaned and clear coated so I should be able to use it on them as well. The surface coating goes over everything else. Right????
 
ScottStoef said:
I ended up getting the PBL Paint and Surface Coating.

Based on Mike's comment, I should apply the paint coating first and then a topcoat of Surface coating.

Is my understanding correct?

How long do I need to let the paint coating cure before applying the topcoat?
Click to expand...

Best results are to apply the paint coating and then after treating and giving the treated section the final buff, wait for a window-of-time from 12 to 24 hours to allow the product to cure/dry/harden, etc.

Like I wrote in this recent article,

Window of Time - How long to wait after applying a coating, wax or sealant before....



ScottStoef said:
If I remember correctly, I can only put the paint coating on anything with an applied clear coat finish.

I had my headlights professionally cleaned and clear coated so I should be able to use it on them as well.
Click to expand...

Correct.



ScottStoef said:
The surface coating goes over everything else.

Right????
Click to expand...

Correct.

Apply the Surface coating over everything else, paint, glass, plastic (taillights, b-pillars, trim etc)



:)
 
ScottStoef said:
I ended up getting the PBL Paint and Surface Coating.
Click to expand...


For what it's worth, I just used these two products on my new-to-me car.

Review: PBL Paint Coating & Surface Coating - 2017 IFINITI QX30 - Magnetic Red


Results are nothing short of freaking amazing.

2017_QX30_004.JPG




One comment....


In my previous reply above, when you asked,


ScottStoef said:
How long do I need to let the paint coating cure before applying the topcoat?
Click to expand...


I answered you like this - the "official" and recommended procedure that is standard for all coatings of any brand. Note the first two words - best results


Mike Phillips said:
Best results are to apply the paint coating and then after treating and giving the treated section the final buff, wait for a window-of-time from 12 to 24 hours to allow the product to cure/dry/harden, etc.
Click to expand...


The above is correct and accurate. That said, after I apply the PBL Paint Coating and I mess around for about an hour doing other things, wrap-up, clean and coat the glass, finish interior, (whatever), I then go around the car and mist the Surface Coating onto the major panels, roof, hood and trunk lid, spread around and wipe clean.

I also hit the top portions of the sides, usually from the waist up, normally there's some sort of "body line" running across the fenders and doors, this is the area I hit. And also the area behind the door handles.

This product makes everything slick and slippery. You'll feel if not so much as you're wiping off the product because your microfiber towel will be a little damp (because you just wiped off a "liquid"), but afterwards, take a clean, dry microfiber towel and wipe if gently over any treated surface.

You'll see what I mean.

The opposite of rubbery.


Then anytime in the future after you wash and dry the car, do the light misting of the Surface cleaner to all the surfaces from the waist up. Even the glass. It only takes a few minutes and the results are a car that looks like you just spend all day on it and washes and dries incredibly fast.

It will also self-wash in a hard rain.


Test and see.,


Cool 2-punch products.


:)
 
The Guz said:
I have found the paint on this year corvette to be on the hard side. So it sounds like the compound and pad you have is not removing the defects on the hard paint. If you have a microfiber pad you could give it a test spot with the current compound you have and see if that removes the harder defects. I had the same experience on my 02 SS, my dad's 02 Z28, and my cousins 2010 Camaro. These required a microfiber cutting pad to remove the defects.

Based on my experience I would choose Cquartz UK 3.0. It has proven to be a very good coating that just performs very well. I would even recommend topping it with Gliss to get that extra gloss but more importantly adding that slickness. It will take a couple panels for you to get the hang of the coating. And don't worry about high spots and just focus on the application and removal process.

Pinnacle's coatings are the easiest to use.

GTechniq CSL is nice to work with in terms of application but it needs Exo to add that hydrophobic property. It is pretty good but Cquartz alone beats it in durability and overall performance.

I would not bother looking at Gyeon other than CanCoat. Cquartz and Gtechniq are better than their Synchro coating based on my experience.

Be sure to get yourself a prep product like Eraser and get yourself some good towels like the edgeless 300 from that rag company. Use two towels, one for the initial removal and the second for the final wipe. You will cycle your towels once all sides are used and you notice that you are just pushing product around.

I bombarded you with a lot of information. Feel free to ask more questions.
Click to expand...

This.
 
I would make sure you do a thorough wipe down after polishing. I've never used Gliss, but Cquartz UK is definitely a great coating to use. Darkens your paint slightly so it has a great look to it as well. I also found that for your regular market level coatings, it probably performs the best out of all the ones I've seen, especially considering the cost of this product as well. Truthfully if you take care of your car, this coating will make it past the 2 year mark easily. I had this on my car for three and a half years. When I did a chemical decontamination with IronX and TarX and an APC soak, I didn't really find any bonded contaminants. I threw a few things on the coating as well here and there, and I noticed that none of the other products really bonded to the coating well and would be gone after around the two to three week mark.
 
WillSports3 said:
I would make sure you do a thorough wipe down after polishing. I've never used Gliss, but Cquartz UK is definitely a great coating to use. Darkens your paint slightly so it has a great look to it as well. I also found that for your regular market level coatings, it probably performs the best out of all the ones I've seen, especially considering the cost of this product as well. Truthfully if you take care of your car, this coating will make it past the 2 year mark easily. I had this on my car for three and a half years. When I did a chemical decontamination with IronX and TarX and an APC soak, I didn't really find any bonded contaminants. I threw a few things on the coating as well here and there, and I noticed that none of the other products really bonded to the coating well and would be gone after around the two to three week mark.
Click to expand...

Which products did you top with that didn’t bond well? We’re they specific coating toppers or something else?
 
It was basically just anything. Longevity would be cut down by like.. 1/4 of the generally accepted time.
 
WillSports3 said:
It was basically just anything. Longevity would be cut down by like.. 1/4 of the generally accepted time.
Click to expand...

Cool. I was just curious if regular coating toppers (Elixir, SiO2 maintenance sprays) were reduced, given this is their purpose, was hoping they would bond and not fail quickly.
 
WillSports3 said:
I also found that for your regular market level coatings, it probably performs the best out of all the ones I've seen, especially considering the cost of this product as well. Truthfully if you take care of your car, this coating will make it past the 2 year mark easily. I had this on my car for three and a half years.
Click to expand...

I agree. I applied CQuartz UK 2.0 to my oldest daughter's car a little over two years ago. Even though she parks in a garage at both work and home, it doesn't get washed very often, never sees any form of topper other than a little Ech2O for bird bombs and water spots after washing. She's in town to visit so we washed her car last night and not only does the coating still look fantastic, but once the car was clean, the beading and sheeting of the water has not diminished at all from when it was applied.

We agreed to let her car go as long as possible to really test the coating. Based on what I saw last night I'm thinking we'll easily pass three years and maybe get to four.
 
I had the salt here in Canada and still, the beading in the lower panels disappeared but at the same time, still no contaminant build up and the surface sheet water quite well.
 
WillSports3 said:
I had the salt here in Canada and still, the beading in the lower panels disappeared but at the same time, still no contaminant build up and the surface sheet water quite well.
Click to expand...

Mckee’s coating prep soap worked wonders for bringing the beading back in the lower panels. AG no longer sells but it is just an Alkaline soap to remove waxes and sealants before coating. Found it does a great job of unclogging coatings


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The salt and winter grime does reduce the sheeting on the lower doors for me too, but I've found it to be temporary. After a few good hand washes everything seems to return to normal.

In the past I'd always doubted the benefit from the occasional use of a product like CarPro's Reset. However, this spring I was able to get my hands on a 2oz sample of Reset and was really impressed by how well worked. One wash from Reset seemed to do the same "rejuvenation" work of 2~3 hand washes with another reputable soap like Optimum Car Wash.
 
I know I am not a profession detailer, but I am thrilled with how the PBL Paint and Surface Coating turned out on my my 2006 Prius.

Definitely not bad for a rookie on a 14 year old car.

Thanks for the advice Mike, the stuff was as slick as you said it would be.

Now for the longevity test sitting outside for the next few months!


View attachment 69938




:)
 
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