Need Some Help with the Waxing Process

Cdhoff502

Cdhoff502

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Okay, so it seems like the waxing game has come a long way since I was a kid. All I remember is wash and wax and buff-all by hand. Nowadays, with the different types of wax, claying, paint cleaners, buffers, polishers, and pads, it can get a bit confusing. I just invested in the BLACKFIRE BlackICE hybrid Montan sealant wax. I have a large truck, so I’m seriously considering the PC 7424 Complete Starter kit. My plan is to wash and clay, then use the BLACKFIRE Gloss Enhancing polish, then wax and buff. My problem is I get confused as to which pads to use when. Do I use the white pads to apply the polish and later the wax? Do I use the black pads to buff off the polish and later the wax? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Hey if I’m understanding correctly, you’re looking at the PC Perfect Starter Kit correct?

If so it has a mix of small Orange Pads and larger White and Black pads. The large white pad that comes with the PC is a typical polishing pad and can be used as well.

Generally product aggressiveness pairs with pad type/color, but can be mixed as needed. Let’s keep it simple..
Orange pads-compound
White-Polish(BF Gloss Enhancing Polish)
Black-Wax/Sealant(BF BlackIce sealant wax)

I’d recommend using microfiber towels to buff off the polish and wax and not the polisher itself.
 
custmsprty said:
First, go with the new Griot's G-9 it's way better than the PC and it has a lifetime warranty.

Griot's Garage G9 Random Orbital Polisher

Griot's Garage 5.5 inch FLAT Pad Complete Kit
Click to expand...

I was going to recommend the G9 as well (my G6 is my workhorse) but I’ve been seeing threads pop up about it failing already. The PC I have, other than being a bit weak overall hasn’t let me down. Mines quite young at 7 years old and like Paul, used for 3” pads now.

That said, despite the seemingly less reliable option of the two, I’d say the G9 is probably the best overall entry level polisher, taking over from the G6.
 
And for a large truck, I wouldn't mess with an actual wax unless you really like spending time waxing. I'd go with one of the better All-In-Ones like Blackfire or HD speed so you can knock it out in a single pass. I own a truck too, and even with an All-In-One it's going to take the better part of a day.
 
Cdhoff502 said:
Okay, so it seems like the waxing game has come a long way since I was a kid. All I remember is wash and wax and buff-all by hand. Nowadays, with the different types of wax, claying, paint cleaners, buffers, polishers, and pads, it can get a bit confusing.

I just invested in the BLACKFIRE BlackICE hybrid Montan sealant wax. I have a large truck, so I’m seriously considering the PC 7424 Complete Starter kit.
Click to expand...



It can seem confusing until you get a little help from your friends here on this forum. :)


I cannot count how many times over the last 18+ years I've been working in the car detailing "Forum World", that someone has finally made the switch from working by hand to getting a simple, safe random orbital polisher and then said something like this,


I can't believe it took me so long to get a polisher


Take my experienced word for it - you'll never look back. AND you'll get such better results and get them faster than you can ever get working by hand.



Cdhoff502 said:
My plan is to wash and clay, then use the BLACKFIRE Gloss Enhancing polish, then wax and buff.
Click to expand...

That will work.

If it had been me? I would have either got a real polish or a great one-step cleaner/wax and used one of these products instead of the BF Gloss Enhansing Polish or ANY brand of "Paint Cleaner". Paint cleaners are non-abrasive, while this means they are super safe, for ALL THE WORK and TIME it takes to apply one - you could have applied a fine cut polish or a great one-step cleaner/wax and obtained ALL the benefits of the paint cleaner PLUS removed some swirls and scratches and still stayed very safe.

Here's my article on this topic,

A paint cleaner is an either/or product - The difference between a paint cleaner and a paint polish by Mike Phillips


But if you already have the BF Gloss Enhancing Polish - it works great for light, topical surface cleaning so might as well use it and then down the road when you run out, switch over to a quart of the BF One Step and never look back.



Cdhoff502 said:
My problem is I get confused as to which pads to use when. Do I use the white pads to apply the polish and later the wax?

Do I use the black pads to buff off the polish and later the wax?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...


The confusion comes from the fact that their is no uniform or universal color code system between all the pad manufactures in the world. Even single pad manufactures use different colors for similar types of pads.

But if you let us know which polisher you buy I and others will be happy to recommend great pads and explain what they do.



Hope the above clears up a little confusion.



:)
 
Also - like others stated,

The Griot's G9 is the de-facto best entry level, simple and easy to use polisher on the market today.


That said, the Porter Cable is a work horse.


For doing simple compounding, polishing and machine waxing, both are great choices. The Porter Cable used with THIN pads is actually a really nice tool. The only time the Porter Cable polish is challenged is when you use LARGE THICK foam pads.


So if you go with either tool, just stick with one of the really nice thin foam pads on the market today. Here's my article on this topic,


5.5" SUPER THIN FOAM PAD OPTIONS for your Dual Action Polisher



Super thin 5.5" foam buffing pads

watermark.php







Don't get pads like the 6.5" anything. Too thick and the diameter of footprint of the pad is too large. The effect of too thick and too large is the tool cannot maintain pad rotation.

When using a FREE SPINNING RANDOM ORBITAL POLISHER - the pad is NOT rotating - you are wasting your time.


And thus why I wrote these two articles,


How to Monitor Pad Rotation? Mark Your Buffing Pads


Use a combination of Sharpie Markers, both Black and Silver and also touch-up paint can be used.

Mark-your-pads_001.JPG






Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation


MarkYourBackingPlate01.jpg




:)







:)
 
Here's my review of the new Griot's G9


Review: Griot's G9 - 9mm Orbit Stroke Random Orbital Polisher by Mike Phillips


And from post #27 of the above review,


What I recommend and what I did for my own personal G9 is to put a Griot's 5" G9 backing plate on this tool and then use 5.5" pads on it.

Here's two recent articles on this topic I wrote.


Backing Plate Swap - 5 inch backing plate for the Griot's Garage G9


Foam Pad Options for the Griots G9 Polisher





I know it's no fun to take a completely good, brand new 6" backing plate and not use it - if you don't get a 5" backing plate here's what you'll end up doing....


Investing all your buffing pad money into 6.5" buffing pads


With these types of tools, you'll get the best swirl removing ability by using 5.5" pads. Might as well bite the bullet and after purchasing a G9 - spend the $20.00 and get the matching 5" backing plate and then start investing your $$$ Pad Money $$$ on smaller pads.


This hold true for the Porter Cable polisher. There's a lot of Porter Cable kits on the market, including on the Autogeek.com store site - pick a kit that comes with a 5" backing plate NOT a 6" backing plate.



:)
 
And one more post before I move onto the next new thread that's piled up over the weekend,


Take a moment to watch this video. It will not only show you EXACTLY what to do, and I mean EVERYTHING you need to do to go from claying to wiping off the wax, (I don't cover washing and drying the car in this video), but I also explain WHY to do the things I show you to do. So it's a well explained HOW and WHY video, not just me telling you what to do.


How to do a Test Spot and then buff out your car! Video Explanation by Mike Phillips


:)
 
Whoops.... meant to share this with you to for background.



And NOTE this article I wrote back in 2010 is when the FIRST THIN FOAM pads were introduced - so it's dated but still accurate in the BIG PICTURE and that is THIN pads spin better than THICK pads on short stroke free spinning random oribital polishers.


Thin is in...

NewHydroTech01.jpg


NewHydroTech02.jpg




:)
 
Don't overthink it at first. I know I did and I eventually came back to a basic polish and sealant process and was simply blown away. If your car gets any level of attention, it'll look so much better than 98% of the cars on the road. Eventually though, you'll want to get better and more efficient and start tackling things like trim etc. But you don't need to start out that way.

I too started with the PC starter kit (with pads). I have never used a griots, but will say I have never had an issue with the PC either. I'd get the starter kit with 1 orange, 2 blacks and the rest whites. Pick your poison with polishes. They're all pretty good, and same applies to your wax or sealant. It wouldn't even hurt to just start with an All in One like Mk360 or HD Speed.

I'd also highly recommend a synthetic clay mit over the bar. They're pricey, but do a great job and are much easier.

The rest is all in the wash. A good 2 bucket method, a bunch of mf towels, some pad cleaners, stuff for rims and tires etc. But most of that stuff hasn't changed a ton and there are lots of threads and products to dig into eventually. I will throw wolfgang exterior trim sealant out there (WETS) as a great addition to your detail if your vehicles have any amount of plastic.
 
Belo said:
I too started with the PC starter kit (with pads). I have never used a griots, but will say I have never had an issue with the PC either.
Click to expand...


Here's what I always say,


You can drive over a Porter Cable polisher with a truck, pick it up and go right back to work with it"


Here's a good way to get into the PC


Porter Cable
Porter cable 7424xp, 7424xp, Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher, Porter Cable polisher, car polisher, buffer, sander-polisher


5" backing plate
lake country 5 inch backing plate, 5 inch backin plate, 5 inch hook and loop backing plate


5.5" foam FLAT pads
Lake Country 5 1/2 x 7/8 inch Beveled Edge Foam Pads, buffing pads, Lake Country curved edge pads, polishing pads


Get orange, white and black. If you're using a one-step cleaner/wax or AIO by any other name - you hope to be able to use the white foam "polishing" pads. If the paint is hard, then you'll want the orange pads. But in my opinion, for most people and most cars - sticking with "polishing" pads is best - at least until you get some experience and start to learn if a paint is hard or soft.

Autogeek usually has a 6-pack deal to save a little money.

Get 6 white foam polishing pads
Get 4 orange and 2 black


Good rule of thumb when using an AIO - stick with foam polishing pads by Mike Phillips


How many pads do I need to buff out my car?





:)
 
Cdhoff502 said:
I really appreciate all the advice. It has really helped to clear up a lot of questions. On a related note, since I plan on cleaning the paint, and applying a polish, is an 8 oz bottle of each enough for a large truck, or do I need the 32 oz sizes?

Thanks again for everyone’s help.
Click to expand...


For a paint cleaner - you can probably get by with 8 ounces but you'll use every bit of it. A paint cleaner should be applied heavy or wet, that means use a lot of product so there's lots of lubrication and lots of "chemicals" working for you, (on the paint), cleaning it.

For the wax or sealant - 8 ounces is fine. Because you're PER-CLEANING the surface - you should only be applying a very THIN layer of product.


:)
 
Thanks for the feedback Mike. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I hadn’t bought either the cleaner or sealant yet, so I was able to take your advice and get the BF One Step. I also went with the Griots G9 5.5 inch Flat Pad Complete Kit. So now, the plan is to wash, clay, One Step, and wax. Thanks again for your time and your help.
 
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