Novice Starting Over - Need advice on two different cars

[rancid]

Hello All/Mr. Phillips,

I am a long-time fan of the site and have purchased many things as a result of studying and research, but lost my passion when I sold my last car and let things fall into a rut with my daily drivers. I currently own both the 21 and 15" Rupes ES Polishers, along with the FLEX XC3401 and the Griot Garage 3" orbital polisher, currently eyeing the newer MKIII Rupes 15" version.

I purchased a 2019 used Mustang GT this week in velocity blue that overall is about an 8/10 paint condition, but there are fine swirl marks across various parts of the car and a couple scratches I'd like to try and remove that haven't broken through the clearcoat. For this vehicle, what polish should I be using for the scratches and what should I use for the swirls? What pad colors would be best so I don't risk damaging the paint? I will be honest, I am extremely nervous messing with this car because the paint is so beautiful and the last time I polished a car I burned through the clearcoat on my wife's black car by being an idiot (did it in 100 degree heat on a sunny day). I plan on sealing the paint once I am finished but not sure which product to use.

My other vehicle is a 2014 Ford Fusion black metallic paint that I've owned a majority of the life of the car. This has been my daily driver for about 5 years now and I haven neglected washing it as much as I should and it has never seen a polisher/sealant. I'd like to do a full restore on the paint starting with claying it, removing scratches, polish, wax, sealant. Confused if I should use the same pads as the mustang or something a little more aggressive given the age of the paint. I know Mike's rule is to start with the least aggressive pad and work your way up, but not sure where to really start.

Sorry for all the questions, I am looking for someone to say "buy this" for each car and I'll have at it. The last time I went down this rabbit hole I spent a lot of unnecessary money (upwards of $800) and want to ease into things. Appreciate everyone's time and patience!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I purchased a 2019 used Mustang GT this week in velocity blue that overall is about an 8/10 paint condition, but there are fine swirl marks across various parts of the car and a couple scratches I'd like to try and remove that haven't broken through the clearcoat.

For this vehicle, what polish should I be using for the scratches and what should I use for the swirls?

What pad colors would be best so I don't risk damaging the paint?

What pads and products do you have already? Maybe make a list in your reply.

My other vehicle is a 2014 Ford Fusion black metallic paint that I've owned a majority of the life of the car. This has been my daily driver for about 5 years now and I haven neglected washing it as much as I should and it has never seen a polisher/sealant.

Wow!

NEVER seen a polisher or sealant? Time to get on this one as it's going on 6+ years.

I'd like to do a full restore on the paint starting with claying it, removing scratches, polish, wax, sealant. Confused if I should use the same pads as the mustang or something a little more aggressive given the age of the paint. I know Mike's rule is to start with the least aggressive pad and work your way up, but not sure where to really start.

Sorry for all the questions, I am looking for someone to say "buy this" for each car and I'll have at it. The last time I went down this rabbit hole I spent a lot of unnecessary money (upwards of $800) and want to ease into things. Appreciate everyone's time and patience!

For pads - sounds like you need a good selection of both foam cutting and foam polishing pads for the tools you own, probably a few finishing pads too.


As for products, if you want to keep this super simple, get these two products. Use the One Step for your paint correction process. It's super safe and easy to use. Then after you're doing with it - machine apply the BlackIce as a topper.

Done.

And in the future, removing any wear-n-tear from normal daily driving is as simple as repeating the process to the car or just the affected areas.



BLACKFIRE One Step 32 ounce bottle

BLACKFIRE BlackICE Hybrid Liquid Wax


If I don't have to use a ceramic paint coating, the above is my normal go-to. Fast and easy, just like I like.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

You can read my reviews and how-tos plus see tons of real-world before, during and after pictures here,


Review: BLACKFIRE One-Step Cleaner/Wax by Mike Phillips

Review: BLACKFIRE BlackICE Hybrid Liquid Wax

 

[rancid]

What pads and products do you have already? Maybe make a list in your reply.




Wow!

NEVER seen a polisher or sealant? Time to get on this one as it's going on 6+ years.





For pads - sounds like you need a good selection of both foam cutting and foam polishing pads for the tools you own, probably a few finishing pads too.


As for products, if you want to keep this super simple, get these two products. Use the One Step for your paint correction process. It's super safe and easy to use. Then after you're doing with it - machine apply the BlackIce as a topper.

Done.

And in the future, removing any wear-n-tear from normal daily driving is as simple as repeating the process to the car or just the affected areas.



BLACKFIRE One Step 32 ounce bottle

BLACKFIRE BlackICE Hybrid Liquid Wax


If I don't have to use a ceramic paint coating, the above is my normal go-to. Fast and easy, just like I like.

Afternoon Mike!

Great timing, I was just about to order some Griot Garage supplies (fast correction & finishing sealant), but will hold off until you can further review the madness that is my detailing supplies I will admit, I am a little embarrassed I have all this stuff and don't know what the heck I am doing for the most part. A lot of this stuff is 5+ years old and sat in a hot garage and appears to be ruined, so I might as well just purchase new for a majority which I'm fine doing if there is better stuff on the market now. I bought your book a couple years back but never got around to reading it, probably about time I set some aside to get it done. Ty so much for the help, I am really excited and eager to get back into the groove but terrified at the same time!

Here are the products I have:

• Multiple Polishing pads (ones you use by hand, not machine) and microfiber cloths
• Multiple hand wash mits
• Wolfgang Foam Cannon for pressure washer
• Lake and Country Orange, Black, Yellow, Green, Blue 6.5" pads for my Rupes polisher (never used the Flex, too scared)
• Rupes Mini LHR75E Blue & Green foam Pads (not in the best shape)
• Flex 5" backing plates

• Iron-X Snow Soap
• Chemical Guys Mr. Pink car wash
• Zaino Snow Car Wash
• Chemical Guys Lubricant for claybar (almost out)
• Zaino Claybars
• Chemical Guys Wheel Cleaner
• Meguiar's all-wheel cleaner
• Adams Super VRT

• Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
• 3M liquid rubbing compound
• Meguiar's 105 Ultra-cut
• Meguiar's 205 ultra-fine cut
• Meguiar's Deep Clear Polish Step 2
• Meguiar's Deep Crystal System Carnauba Wax Step 3
• Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Wax
• Zaino Car Polish #2
• Zaino #5 Pro Polish
• Zaino #6 ultra clean gloss enhancer
• Wolfgang Concours-Series Finishing Glaze
• Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
• Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover
• XMT Series 360
• Wolfgang Concours-series clear hardening spray
• Blue Music Metal Polish (for chrome tips)
• Meguiar's NXT Speed Detailer

• Blackfire Interior Cleaner
• Zaino Leather in a bottle
• Zaino Leather soft spray
• Wolfgang leather care cleaner
• Wolfgang leather conditioner
• Wolfgang vinyl & rubber protectant

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Afternoon Mike!

Great timing, I was just about to order some Griot Garage supplies (fast correction & finishing sealant),

Here are the products I have:

Most all of the stuff you bought is good stuff. Things like the Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step 2 Polish are long gone but here's the deal.

If any of the liquids can be shaken and after a REALLY GOOD SHAKING they pour out as a uniform, lotion like liquid, not runny or separated, then they can probably still be used.

The Meguiar's Step 2 Polish is a cousin of Meguiar's Number #7 - See this,

Original Single Stage - 1937 Packard - The Number #7 Rub Down Technique


The Griot's products you mentioned are very good. I'd put them and the two products I mentioned on the same top shelf.


It's 5:00pm and I have to get home and let the Boss out to tinkle.

 

[rancid]

Most all of the stuff you bought is good stuff. Things like the Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step 2 Polish are long gone but here's the deal.

If any of the liquids can be shaken and after a REALLY GOOD SHAKING they pour out as a uniform, lotion like liquid, not runny or separated, then they can probably still be used.

The Meguiar's Step 2 Polish is a cousin of Meguiar's Number #7 - See this,

Original Single Stage - 1937 Packard - The Number #7 Rub Down Technique


The Griot's products you mentioned are very good. I'd put them and the two products I mentioned on the same top shelf.


It's 5:00pm and I have to get home and let the Boss out to tinkle.

Thanks again for taking the time to reply Mike. Just to confirm if I go with the Blackfire or Griot:

Wash with Foam Cannon
Rinse
Clay car
Rinse
Dry car
Swirl correction
Polish car
Car Eraser formula such as CarPro
Dry car
Gloss Sealant/LSP?

I think where I am getting confused is the difference between the sealant and LSP and if you can do both. Meaning, could you do a high gloss seal and then apply an LSP such as CarPro Cquartz? Would you have to use the car eraser/IPA in between the Sealant and the LSP? Always heard the car needs to be as oil-free as possible.

 

[57Rambler]

I think where I am getting confused is the difference between the sealant and LSP

LSP = Last Step Product. Could be wax, sealant, or a coating.

and if you can do both. Meaning, could you do a high gloss seal and then apply an LSP such as CarPro Cquartz?

To quote Mike from a previous thread addressing your question :


Probably nothing happens if you're using a NON cleaning wax or sealant. In this case, the wax or sealant just coats over and sits on the surface so to speak.

Then your paint takes on the benefits, features and characteristics of the wax or sealant until it wears off and then you get the benefits, features and characteristics of the coating.

In my opinion, applying a wax or sealant over a coating defeats the purpose of using the coating.


What actually happens when you top a ceramic coating with a wax or sealant?

 

[rancid]

LSP = Last Step Product. Could be wax, sealant, or a coating.



To quote Mike from a previous thread addressing your question :


Probably nothing happens if you're using a NON cleaning wax or sealant. In this case, the wax or sealant just coats over and sits on the surface so to speak.

Then your paint takes on the benefits, features and characteristics of the wax or sealant until it wears off and then you get the benefits, features and characteristics of the coating.

In my opinion, applying a wax or sealant over a coating defeats the purpose of using the coating.


What actually happens when you top a ceramic coating with a wax or sealant?

This helps, thank you.