Eldorado2k
Well-known member
- Nov 9, 2015
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Question: Do you own a high powered blower such as a Metro Sidekick or Master Blaster? I’m curious if you do and still feel the same way about washing a classic car.
Sooo....what's wrong with my clear coat?
- Thread starter HAMBO
- Start date
Question: Do you own a high powered blower such as a Metro Sidekick or Master Blaster? I’m curious if you do and still feel the same way about washing a classic car.
MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
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IMO, it really doesn't matter much after the fact, of dousing an antique in a manner I cautioned against. Too late.
In certain climes, vehicles rust to the bone that have never even been washed.
Take my Tahoe there in my avatar. There it sat in the desert under a carport in (Alamogordo) NM for 14 years. Nary seen rust accumulate until I came back to the Midwest. I seen more rust accumulate on the chassis underside in 6 months in Wisconsin, than I did in 14 years in NM.
Of course road salts played a part too, dumping that all over on every street and road.
Most smart people with vintage, collectables, and antiques do not hose their vehicles down with water. There's no such things as perfect sealing window gaskets, hood and trunk seals, windshield-back window trim, doors that drain every last drop of water after a wash job. That water sits, and can for a very long time
Once I had a bought brand new 1980 Jeep Cherokee Golden Eagle (Lemon POS)
I'm driving it one winter day, and every time I stopped or took off, I'm hearing what sounded like water sloshing when I came to a stop, or accelerated from a stop light? I'm like WTH?
Popped both rear interior panels behind the rear wheels to find at least a gallon of water on each side! Freaking Fish Tanks I had back there! And I was sick to see the rust that had already formed. Worst piece of $12,000 junk I ever bought in my life!
Eldorado2k
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- Nov 9, 2015
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Do you own a high powered air blower?
HAMBO
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- Jan 19, 2017
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- #24
Thanks. Yep, I have been using distilled water for dilution. A wipe down with a spritz of distilled water is a good suggestion, thanks! Though I am indeed beginning to suspect the heat of the panels has been a big part of the problem. Need to let everything cool down I suspect.
WillSports3
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- Jun 13, 2016
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Ya, a lot of the WW/RW can be a pain to remove once it dries.
HAMBO
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LOL no problem! The RPO code on the trim tag in the engine bay says the car was originally built with a 396 (also with correct option codes for what I otherwise see as options on the car), but the original motor is long gone, so I don't know if I'll ever be able to prove with certainty what it was built with. My inclination, and I had a Camaro restoration expert and an NCRS judge take a look and come to this point of view, is that it was born a 396. But without the original motor to confirm it may always be an "I believe so" and not an "I know so". Good enough for me : )
MarkD51
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- Oct 15, 2012
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Happens with a lot of old Chevy Classics, the original motor is long gone. That was the case with my '67 Stingray (327) and my '68 Camaro (396) as well. The Stingray's original motor crapped out at 6 month's time, original owner found he was going through a qt of oil every 400 miles, entire short block was replaced due to a supposed bad cylinder that could not be cleaned up.
My Camaro, actually had a 427 under the hood. Looked basically the same, just a slightly different Harmonic Balancer was one visual give-away.
Same with a friend's show winning '68 SS396 Chevelle. When he bought the car, it had a 283 under the hood.
After finding a period correct Block (serial numbers) the car is now a full rotisserie resto best of show winner, and has been appraised at about $120K.
