What Happened To My Ceramic Coating?

Chemical Guys Speedshine Detailer. Has basically the same level of protection, and hides light swirls. Also adds gloss. Also can be used in direct sunlight without any finicky application processes.

Turtle Wax Jet Black Spray Wax was able to do that as well, not sure if it still is in production.

Any kind of cheap detail spray that contains Silicone will do basically the exact same thing.

Reloads adds gloss, and then kills the coating underneath. Not sure if that makes it worth applying at all.

At the same time, I haven't seen protection from it yet. Adds gloss and visually decent water beading. However in practice, the water does not bead off very well. Lower contact angle on the product.

I don't know if I would call it a spray sealant. Sealant seems like too much of a stretch for what it does and doesn't do.
 
Well it certainly isn’t a quick detailer like alot of people go around calling it.
 
No, it's definitely not a quick detailer. Mind you, it's not just Reload. Reload, Cure, etc, a lot of those products I find give great water beading, and adds some gloss but that's usually about it.
 
WillSports3 said:
No, it's definitely not a quick detailer. Mind you, it's not just Reload. Reload, Cure, etc, a lot of those products I find give great water beading, and adds some gloss but that's usually about it.
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In your opinion what specific thing does Reload fail to do that prevents it from being a good spray sealant?
 
The contamination build up from Reload. For whatever reason, a month after having reload on with consistent washes, the paint already feels like sandpaper again. I don't get that with the other protection that I've used. I use Iron X on Reload, and it degrades the Reload on the paint and I still feel like I need to clay after. Not something I encounter necesarily with a lot of other products.

Now the newest version may have changed this, but all the versions I've used, it required a finicky application. I used to put two spritz or so per panel on a damp microfiber towel to avoid streaking. I've applied it in all temperatures and found it streaked like crazy. I was using decent quality microfiber towels to application and removal. Whether that method affected the durability, I don't know. But that's also the only way I've found it to be usable.
 
WillSports3 said:
The contamination build up from Reload. For whatever reason, a month after having reload on with consistent washes, the paint already feels like sandpaper again.
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I was hoping you’d say that. We think alike.
That’s my #1 priority when it comes to lsp.
 
Don't get me wrong, I use coatings for myself but I use fall out remover and it's back to being fine after a good wash. That I can accept but with Reload, it feels like the next step is to clay and re-polish lol
 
WillSports3 said:
The contamination build up from Reload. For whatever reason, a month after having reload on with consistent washes, the paint already feels like sandpaper again. I don't get that with the other protection that I've used. I use Iron X on Reload, and it degrades the Reload on the paint and I still feel like I need to clay after. Not something I encounter necesarily with a lot of other products.

Now the newest version may have changed this, but all the versions I've used, it required a finicky application. I used to put two spritz or so per panel on a damp microfiber towel to avoid streaking. I've applied it in all temperatures and found it streaked like crazy. I was using decent quality microfiber towels to application and removal. Whether that method affected the durability, I don't know. But that's also the only way I've found it to be usable.
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I know thread is super old now, but FWIW for other readers…

I’ve used Reload for last 4 years on four different cars with UK3.0 (applied every 2 months or so) and water beading looks like Day 1 of ceramic coating. The “feel” of the paint after Reload is not supposed to be slick glass-like, but it’s does add more slickness than raw UK3.0 alone. Bc “slickness” is relatively subjective, for a slickness comparison using scale 0-10, if CarPro Gliss = 9, CarPro SiC = 10, then Reload = ~6 (feeling with a high GSM MF towel, and not your finger). But if you really want that “slick” feel, then I would do CarPro SiC. It doesn’t last as long as UK though, so many people like myself did 2 layers UK3.0+one layer SiC.

The real test shouldn’t be the “feel” test, but more the water beading test. If it forms nice solid beads and sheets fast, then I would say your coating is working as expected.. and the Reload definitely refreshes it for way past 3 years. Think of the spray as a sacrificial layer on top of the ceramic coating.

My guess for what you’re experiencing is not the coating itself, but possible deep contamination on top of your coating. If enough contamination is on top, it will feel rough and the water beading will look compromised. Try Iron X first, then power wash with foam 2x, then hand wash with Reset using MF mitts. Then reapply Reload.

Hope this helps.
 
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