When coarse isn't enough

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mrasmussen

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I was trying to include a pic but when I try to upload it, I get an error (generic upload failed).

Anyway, the tailgate on my truck has some DEEP scratches, which I can't get out with my Rupes polisher using the coarsest (blue) pad and product. I'm guessing I would have to wet sand the area?

If someone can help with with pics I can upload what I am working with.

Lastly, the area has curves which makes the Rupes Bigfoot polisher tough to use in the area. I switched to my Rupes Mini (blue pad etc) and it doesn't have the Power of the big guy, so it doesn't get out the scratches.
 
How are you uploading the photos? To the gallery via a PC? If so they may be too large. I have to re-size every picture I upload into the gallery due to the size restrictions. This problem can be avoided if you do it via the TapaTalk app on a phone or tablet.

As for the scratches, if they are too deep they might not be worth chasing. You could easily remove too much/all the clear coat in the area around them and just make the problem bigger. I had this issue when working on my father-in-laws tailgate. He parked too close to the garage door and when closing it one day one of the braces scraped along the surface from top to bottom. I was able to polish/compound out a majority of the damage, but there was a point when it just wasn't worth it to try and correct any further.
 
I was trying to upload the file straight from my computer, the error just said failed, didn't say why, at least I didn't see it. Might be the size. I then tried to use a URL for Flickr and that didn't work either.

I'll look into the TapaTalk app.

I think you may be correct with the deeper scratches. I don't want to remove the clearcoat.
 
If they are deep enough the nail catches, then it's too deep to correct.
If they are not that deep yet but still pretty deep, wet sanding is necessary but you have to think if it's worth removing that much clear coat. What type of vehicle is this? A daily driver or a garage queen?
If the foam pad can't remove it but you don't think sanding is necessary, try microfiber or wool pad with heavy compound, that might remove or significantly improve it.
 
mrasmussen said:
Changed the file size, let's see if this works.

View attachment 70025
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couple look like they are pretty deep. They are not worth chasing. A fairly effective trick is to spray them with some mild soap and water. The ones that mostly to completely disappear will likely polish out. those that don't are too deep.

I wouldn't wet-sand or lean in too hard with a compound unless you have a Paint Thickness Gauge. Key is to balance out the results that make you happy while still maintaining a fair amount of clear coat to protect or handle UV exposure from the sun. Remember, there's no such thing as removing scratches, you're actually leveling the surround clear coat to reduce or eliminate their appearance.
 
Thanks guys, I do see some lighter scratches that I am going to continue to work on. I am not looking for perfection just looking to clean this truck up as best I can.

I'll post pics after I work on it a bit more. My problem is as stated earlier, the Rupes Mini doesn't have the power of the Rupes LHR21, but the big guy can't really fit well on this Ford F150 tailgate.
 
mrasmussen said:
Thanks guys, I do see some lighter scratches that I am going to continue to work on. I am not looking for perfection just looking to clean this truck up as best I can.

I'll post pics after I work on it a bit more. My problem is as stated earlier, the Rupes Mini doesn't have the power of the Rupes LHR21, but the big guy can't really fit well on this Ford F150 tailgate.
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Yep. That's why I love forced rotation like the Flex 3401 or even the Rupes Mille. It never stops spinning and doesn't care where on the car I put it. LOL.
 
mrasmussen said:
I was trying to include a pic but when I try to upload it, I get an error (generic upload failed).
Click to expand...


Not sure what kind of device you're using? IF a phone then TapaTalk is the best way.


IF a computer, then the most common error is people try to uploaded HUMONGOUS files sizes and we don't allow this as it simply wastes server space. The other most common error is there's a SPACE in the file name. The Internet does not like empty spaces in URL addresses.

I upload hundreds of pictures every week, sometime hundreds in a day. So it is possible.


mrasmussen said:
Anyway, the tailgate on my truck has some DEEP scratches, which I can't get out with my Rupes polisher using the coarsest (blue) pad and product.
Click to expand...


When it comes to deep scratches in factory thin paint - might want to read this article,

When to stop buffing - Or - How far should you go to remove swirls and scratches?

Maybe check with your favorite body shop and get a quote to have the tailgate repainted so you know going in what the downside will be if you make a

Whoops!




mrasmussen said:
I'm guessing I would have to wet sand the area?
Click to expand...


Be cautios when wetsanding factory paint. Find a Post-it Note and then click the link below and read my article.


Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips



mrasmussen said:
If someone can help with with pics I can upload what I am working with.
Click to expand...

Email me the pictures and I'll put them in this thread for you.

[email protected]




mrasmussen said:
Lastly, the area has curves which makes the Rupes Bigfoot polisher tough to use in the area. I switched to my Rupes Mini (blue pad etc) and it doesn't have the Power of the big guy, so it doesn't get out the scratches.
Click to expand...


The experience you're sharing is common with anyone using any brand of free spinning random orbital polishers. That's just how they work. This is also why I rarely use these style of polishers.


I'll be sharing the benefits of using gear-driven orbital in our LIVE video today at 3:00pm

Tuesday June 30th - LIVE Detailing Class - How to do High Quality Production Detailing using Gear-Driven Orbital Polishers

800_High_Quality_PROD_Detailing_001m.JPG




:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
I'll be sharing the benefits of using gear-driven orbital in our LIVE video today at 3:00pm

Tuesday June 30th - LIVE Detailing Class - How to do High Quality Production Detailing using Gear-Driven Orbital Polishers

800_High_Quality_PROD_Detailing_001m.JPG


:)
Click to expand...


^^ is the above going to be recorded and posted on YouTube or anything? I would love to watch it later as I'm not able to at 3pm. I use both the Flex and Rupes and would be interested in this video. Personally, I'm selling my Rupes Mille and staying with Flex. In the end they are proving to be far more reliable. My Rupes is going back for another refurb/once over for $99 or so then I'm going to either sell it or simply keep it as a fall-back back up unit. It will likely be sold though.

The Mille is a great unit but honestly I just don't think it's up to the task as a full on production machine. An enthusiast yes but not one that can run or hang with a Flex. I've yet to see that in the ones I have.
 
really dumb question, how do you know if a particular polisher is gear driven or free spinning? the Rupes in the pic above looks very similar to my LHR21. I assume the product details will tell me the spinning mechanism?

Maybe I should purchase a gear driven polisher for trim, something that takes a 2 or 3 inch pad? Any recommendations?

Pic issue fixed (obviously), I assume the issue was the file size, I was just over 5MBs originally, resizing in Paint (windows 10) worked.
 
Take your finger and try to spin the backing plate.

IF the tool, any brand, is a free spinning polisher you can spin the backing plate with your finger - easily.

If the tool is gear-driven orbital - you'll have to physically GRAB the backing plate and force it to rotate/oscillate.

Good question - I show this in all my car and boat detailing classes BECAUSE it drives home a simple point that most people can then wrap their brains around.

I'll show that in the live class today.


:)
 
You may also want to look into some fiber pads to do your cutting with. Check out LC purple wool and the Rupes wool. Will help with pad rotation and cut more than the blue Rupes foam pad.
 
I watched the video, really good info. I should have gotten a gear driven polisher. Also, instead of using the 4 steps from Rupes I would rather have done 1-2 steps for a daily driver.

I see Flex has a trim polisher with a battery (sold out it appears). Is that a gear driven tool?
 
mrasmussen said:
I watched the video, really good info. I should have gotten a gear driven polisher. Also, instead of using the 4 steps from Rupes I would rather have done 1-2 steps for a daily driver.
Click to expand...

And just to note - RUPES also has a gear-driven polisher called the Mille



mrasmussen said:
I see Flex has a trim polisher with a battery (sold out it appears).
Click to expand...

Do you mean the FLEX PXE 80 ? I've never seen nor heard of it called a Trim Polisher. :)



Pictures: New FLEX PXE 80 10.8-EC by Mike Phillips

FLEX_PXE_80_10_8_EC_043.JPG





mrasmussen said:
Is that a gear driven tool?
Click to expand...

If you mean the PXE - the answer is a 2 part answer.

Yes - The PXE is gear-driven when you have the rotary drive unit installed.

No - The PXE is free spinning random orb it when you have either the 3mm or the 12mm drive units installed.



At this time - there are no small or micro-tools that are gear-driven orbital.



Or do you mean one of the other compact FLEX tools?


FLEX XFE 7-12 3" Mini Polisher

FLEX PE8 Kompakt Rotary Polisher, motorcycle polisher


And never heard these referred to as trim polishers but "yes" all three above would be functional for polishing trim or thin panels.





:)
 
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