Gyeon can coat prep

heloguy

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Hi all,
I searched the forums and couldn’t find a specific answer to a question.
I applied 2 coats of TW Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray after a full 1 step detail using HD Speed.

I just was introduced to Gyeon Can Coat and ordered some today.

My question is how would I prep the vehicle for application of the can cost?
Do I have to polish with the DA again?

Any input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!


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Hi all,
I searched the forums and couldn’t find a specific answer to a question.
I applied 2 coats of TW Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray after a full 1 step detail using HD Speed.

I just was introduced to Gyeon Can Coat and ordered some today.
My question is how would I prep the vehicle for application of the can cost?
Do I have to polish with the DA again?


Any input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In theory, yes you should prep by polishing the TW off and then removing polishing oils... don’t use HD Speed. It leaves short lived protection behind.

Cancoat is also a coating topper and it’s possible it could live on top of TW... but I’m guessing you wouldn’t get max performance of Cancoat as TW underneath might be a lesser base, and in your current situation I don’t think TW will last long anyways being on top of Speed.
 
Polish, prep wipe (CarPro Eraser. Gyeon Prep, etc..), double coat of cancoat 1 hour apart.

Do you have any other polishes?
 
Yeah if it’s a fresh coat polish. Lsp stripping soaps will affect the performance of a fresh applied LSP but won’t remove it


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Polish, prep wipe (CarPro Eraser. Gyeon Prep, etc..), double coat of cancoat 1 hour apart.

Do you have any other polishes?

I have some meguiars polish.


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I didn’t know you were a double coat Cancoat guy, Guz. :)

I double coat about every coating I use.

I have some meguiars polish.


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Meguiar’s has many polishes so anything such as ultimate polish, M205, M210 will work. Just be sure to prep wipe prior to the coating application.
 
I double coat about every coating I use.
Cool, I’m a double coat guy, too. For coverage, but also I swear I get slightly better performance just about every time I double coat.
 
9107ecf58689de216f40bce4199d1c46.jpg


Yeah, me too. :cheers:


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9107ecf58689de216f40bce4199d1c46.jpg


Yeah, me too.


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I was scrolling down on my phone thinking about Collinite 476 as I saw all the “double coat” posts and wondering when you’d post. I saw the picture of 476 and looked at the username, lo and behold, PaulMys!! Great product like all Collinite waxes I’ve used.

For CanCoat, definitely polish the car again and use a panel prep spray of some sort to ensure it’s free of any oils. The product itself is extremely easy to use and apply/remove.
 
Hi guys,
what do you think about using 3D One with a black finishing pad to polish before coating?
 
Hi guys,
what do you think about using 3D One with a black finishing pad to polish before coating?

Really depends on your test spot and if you are content with the finish.
 
Hi guys,
what do you think about using 3D One with a black finishing pad to polish before coating?

Personally I see no point. Black pads have no real cut and unless you're paint is aftermarket and orange peel free, it won't have any significant refinement applied that would be worth anything. I would simply pop on a light polishing pad and give it a once over. I would also recommend you look the coating line you plan on using to see if they have a primer or base-coat polish you can use. CarPro Essence or GYEON's Primer are two that come to mind for their respective coatings. Being this is a CanCoat thread, I'd stress using Primer. It's a great product and helps CanCoat go on and off easier. It's my go-to polish for GYEON coatings.
 
Hi guys,
what do you think about using 3D One with a black finishing pad to polish before coating?

And after your test spot, fully buff the area, spray some prep spray, wipe off and see if you feel any slickness at all or is the surface squeaky clean?
 
Personally I see no point. Black pads have no real cut and unless you're paint is aftermarket and orange peel free, it won't have any significant refinement applied that would be worth anything.

Agree and I'd go so far as to say using a black pad would be a waste of time. It's REALLY soft and better suited to applying an LSP. If you wanted to go very gentle a blue LC pad would be a better choice. Realistically, I'd think a white pad with 3D One would be a good starting point for a test spot.
 
I ordered a bottle of 3D AAT 502 polish. I’m going to use that with a black pad. (That’s what they recommend) if it’s not working well, I’ll switch to a blue pad.
That should get me prepped for Can Coat.


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I ordered a bottle of 3D AAT 502 polish. I’m going to use that with a black pad. (That’s what they recommend) if it’s not working well, I’ll switch to a blue pad.
That should get me prepped for Can Coat.


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If that is the recommended pad, then I would not doubt their instructions to start with.

But like you stated, you can always switch it up.
 
I ordered a bottle of 3D AAT 502 polish. I’m going to use that with a black pad. (That’s what they recommend) if it’s not working well, I’ll switch to a blue pad.
That should get me prepped for Can Coat.


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They recommend it as it's a follow up to their AAT compound where the compound may leave haze and require finishing. I agree with the others on just using a polishing pad. You are not going to remove that much clear if that is what you are worried about.
 
I'm surprised they recommend a black pad at all. Even to remove compound haze I'd use a white or blue pad depending on the paint. The black is so soft I see it having only one real use.
 
I haven't tried the AAT compound but if it is anything similar to ACA 500 then I can see why as it finishes good on most paints. Especially on harder paints.
 
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