Should I clay before winter or after?

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TheMidnightNarwhal

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Hey so summer is over and I was thinking of refreshing my Powerlock+ before winter. Now I'm wondering if I should just apply a new coat without decontaminating the paint or I should IronX and clay.

The reason I ask is because I always read some threads where people say clay as much as you want it won't marr and other threads that say clay does marr. If it wouldn't marr I definitely would since it would help make the product last longer.

Or maybe I should look at those synthetic clays, do those marr less?
 
I clay every time I use an lsp. Even if I do not polish. Fine clay and lot's of lube. I have a bright silver, white, and magnetic grey color too. That helps my approach
 
hoyt66 said:
I clay every time I use an lsp. Even if I do not polish. Fine clay and lot's of lube. I have a bright silver, white, and magnetic grey color too. That helps my approach
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I was thinking of getting the Mother speed clay thingy since I'm all out of clay atm and figured synthetic might be a good update?
 
You could just start with a chemical decontamination and do the baggie check and see how it's doing.

If it fails the baggie test, then I'd probably clay before reapplying to try and have the smoothest surface possible to help keep stuff from sticking (as much as possible) through the winter. Then just plan on polishing in the spring so you're primo for the nice months next year.

I feel that standard clay stands the best chance to be mar free, but maybe the synthetics are fine with enough lube/light pressure.

The synthetic clay is convenient for sure, but I don't know that it's "safer".
 
IMO:
Only if the results from performing
“The Baggie Test” provides tangible
justification for Claying at this time.


Bob
 
FUNX650 said:
IMO:
Only if the results from performing
“The Baggie Test” provides tangible
justification for Claying at this time.


Bob
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Is this from Mike's book? This is solid advice all jokes aside and I'm finding myself practicing that and if ain't broke don't fix it approach with a slight variation.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
 
oneheadlite said:
You could just start with a chemical decontamination and do the baggie check and see how it's doing.

If it fails the baggie test, then I'd probably clay before reapplying to try and have the smoothest surface possible to help keep stuff from sticking (as much as possible) through the winter. Then just plan on polishing in the spring so you're primo for the nice months next year.

I feel that standard clay stands the best chance to be mar free, but maybe the synthetics are fine with enough lube/light pressure.

The synthetic clay is convenient for sure, but I don't know that it's "safer".
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Oh okay, I thought it was safer.

Regarding if I need to, that was my other point of view. Since it was protected all summer shouldn't have much on it but then again I guess it depends and the test will tell me. I never did the baggie test, just did with my fingers.
 
I say before and after, clean as you go

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Personally, being proactive is better. Clay and decon before winter flies is my ritual and then again in the spring. Less contamination on the paint means less anchor points for new contamination to grab on to, and makes it easier in the spring.
 
Spikey Mike said:
Personally, being proactive is better. Clay and decon before winter flies is my ritual and then again in the spring. Less contamination on the paint means less anchor points for new contamination to grab on to, and makes it easier in the spring.
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^^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^
 
Ok I'll definitely clay, which clay should I get or synthetic? I'm about to buy the mothers speed clay, if there isn't anyone advising against it I'll cop it.
 
FUNX650 said:
•Are you going to polish afterwards?
-(Using something like Meguiar’s M205;
Meguiar’s Ultimate Polish; or, one of
similar mildness-of-abrasives?)


Bob
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No I sold my cheap DA after I had corrected my paint beginning of summer. So it's why I'm looking for a clay that's goanna marr the less.
 
TheMidnightNarwhal said:
No I sold my cheap DA after I had corrected my paint beginning of summer. So it's why I'm looking for a clay that's goanna marr the less.
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Well then, since you're doing a sealant and not a coating, I think I would skip the clay for now and do it in the spring. After winter you may have some (additional) correcting in the spring, so I would plan for a clay and polish then before applying your spring/summer LSP.
 
57Rambler said:
Well then, since you're doing a sealant and not a coating, I think I would skip the clay for now and do it in the spring. After winter you may have some (additional) correcting in the spring, so I would plan for a clay and polish then before applying your spring/summer LSP.
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I don't I'll do a polish until I move out into my own place where I can use the garage year round. At the moment I can spot some swirls in certain lightning but not a whole lot, still looks real good and glossy when it's cleaned.

So yeah not sure. I think I'll do speed clay for the fun of it and experience. Just got a new hood painted to and I can do some testing and when I eventually move out I'll get a griot polisher.
 
I use Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay with their Clay Lube and don't get any marring with it. I do the baggie test first and if the surfaces are rough I clay the entire vehicle. This is a fine clay and I use it a couple times a year on my vehicles before applying wax or sealant.
 
Until you are ready to polish---Just wash and then apply wax or sealant to get you through winter.

When you are ready to cut or do a polish using DA---Then do the wash and the clay.

Tom
 
TMQ said:
Until you are ready to polish---Just wash and then apply wax or sealant to get you through winter.

When you are ready to cut or do a polish using DA---Then do the wash and the clay.

Tom
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Just worried if I don't clay power lock won't last through winter?
 
Go ahead and clay if you feel it won't.

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TheMidnightNarwhal said:
Just worried if I don't clay power lock won't last through winter?
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That shouldn't be a concern.

Claying just removes above-surface contaminates to make your paint look its best after the polishing/LSP.

It won't affect the LSP's longevity. :)
 
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