Next choice: question about polishers.

[Davidz58]

As a professional tool collector, that is definitely one option. Just wondering though if you should get the CBeast first and try it out to see if you even need the SupaBeast. Maybe instead of spending money on the Supa you could buy another battery and be able to go constantly with the cordless. Sometimes ignorance is bliss.

That hits my last question on point, the cbeast, how much less power is it versus the super beast? And would it still be sufficient or better than my rules 15 mk3?

Thank you again.

 

[John U]

That hits my last question on point, the cbeast, how much less power is it versus the super beast? And would it still be sufficient or better than my rules 15 mk3?

Thank you again.

Copied from a "Mike" post

BEAST = 480 RPM and 9,600 OPM

Supa BEAST = 430 RPM and 8,600 OPM

CBEAST = 380 RPM and 7,600 OPM

Rupes Mark3 maxes out at 5200 RPM (Autogeek) not sure how that translates to OPM. Apparently Autogeek has a typo... others use 5200 OPM

 

[dgage]

That hits my last question on point, the cbeast, how much less power is it versus the super beast? And would it still be sufficient or better than my rules 15 mk3?

Thank you again.

It would be different for each of us, definitely different between Mike Phillips and I since I’m a hobbyist. All I was saying is to potentially order the CBeast for yourself first. If it seems to keep you happy and efficient, then that may be all you need. But if you continue to think, what if I could get the SupaBeast and be even more efficient, then you’d want to get the SupaBeast too or first.

It’s like driving a fast car. You think whatever the fast car you’ve been in is fast, until you later ride in a faster car. In this case, I’m saying skip the faster car initially so you don’t know any better and your benchmark will be the pretty fast car.

But if you’re a professional and want to get the most work done the quickest, which would be like Mike, then the only answer is to get the SupaBeast.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

That hits my last question on point, the cbeast, how much less power is it versus the super beast? And would it still be sufficient or better than my rules 15 mk3?

Thank you again.

Copied from a "Mike" post here,

FLEX Power Tools Nicknames - All cool tools should have a nickname - not a part number -Mike Phillips


BEAST = 480 RPM and 9,600 OPM

Supa BEAST = 430 RPM and 8,600 OPM

CBEAST = 380 RPM and 7,600 OPM




Rupes Mark 3 maxes out at 5200 RPM (Autogeek) not sure how that translates to OPM. Apparently Autogeek has a typo... others use 5200 OPM

Thanks for the heads-up - I've notified our webmaster about the OPM and RPM to change. :xyxthumbs:




:buffing:

 

[Davidz58]

So I spurged and ended up picking up everything.
Now to go along the XFE cordless, adds super beast, cbeast, and pxe80.

Will try these out soon.

 

[dgage]

So I spurged and ended up picking up everything.
Now to go along the XFE cordless, adds super beast, cbeast, and pxe80.

Will try these out soon.

Thats one decision to make. Nice!

Now you can come back and give your opinion on the differences. Enjoy.

 

[Davidz58]

Thats one decision to make. Nice!

Now you can come back and give your opinion on the differences. Enjoy.

Did a quick play on my wife's X3, quick scratch removal.

I tried the cbeast. I used it on level 3 power.
First impression, very different from XFE cordless, got lots of power (tons) even at half power.

In highlight, knowing how it feels now, I could of probably done without the super beast.

As this is my first time with forced rotation da, it definitely feels different from the free spinning da. Takes a bit to get used to, but sorta got the hang of it after about 10 mins use. Behaves similar to using rotary so just need to pay bit more attention while polishing. Overall I like it, but need some more time to learn it. Will get a chance to try once I get a bad paint to correct.

 

[John U]

I tried the cbeast. I used it on level 3 power.
First impression, very different from XFE cordless, got lots of power (tons) even at half power.

In highlight, knowing how it feels now, I could of probably done without the super beast.

As this is my first time with forced rotation da, it definitely feels different from the free spinning da. Takes a bit to get used to, but sorta got the hang of it after about 10 mins use..

Good summary. I've used a "Beast" for 11 years and wanted a "kinder-gentler" cordless experience for general AIO applications. I picked up the cordless XFE "Finisher" for this and am getting used it's softer approach vs the attack mode I was used to.

I used it on a pal's trailer earlier this week with BF One Step and I did not get the upper body workout I've learned to expect with the "Beast"

View attachment 71970

 

[Davidz58]

Good summary. I've used a "Beast" for 11 years and wanted a "kinder-gentler" cordless experience for general AIO applications. I picked up the cordless XFE "Finisher" for this and am getting used it's softer approach vs the attack mode I was used to.

I used it on a pal's trailer earlier this week with BF One Step and I did not get the upper body workout the "Beast" is known for.

View attachment 71970

I agree completely. I think for light swirls decent condition cars, ill stick to xfe finisher and rotate among 4 batteries to keep power up. Bring it the cbeast or Supa beast only as necessary. I'll set up Supa beast with 6 inch backing plate, and cbeast with the stock 5 inch.

I also did some 5000 grit sanding today, the cbeast removed with ease. About 3 passes was 100% clear.

 

[Mike Hoekstra]

Hello first time here, want to say hello.
I detail about 2 vehicles per week to add context.

My equipment usually consist of a go to rupes 15 mk3 and a rotary for heavier defect removal.

I was stuck between the Flex XFE cordless vs the Dewalt, but ended with Flex due to faster charge time, weight, and vibration.

After using it now, my biggest concern is the drop in rpms after the battery is about half depleted. Now I understand this is a finisher, so cutting is not the purpose of this. So I want to pair with another cordless.

I am current looking at the XCE cordless, dewalt cordless da, or just skip all together and go to the dewalt or flex cordless rotaries. I find that the flex does xfe does have cutting capability with the right pad and compound, but the run time on max rpm is why I want to get another.

I heard that the dewalt da does have more cutting capability.

What would you guys recommend next, will xce be a noticeable difference or dewalt da, or just go straight to the rotary?

Thanks in advance.

First off, I worked at a large nation-wide distribution tool store and weekly, yellow and black tools owned the warranty pile I had to go through. As Mike stated, the corded "Supa Beast" would be the way. I own the original 3401 and the new cordless Beast. I can buff out an entire car on two batteries, or a crew cab pickup/suv with just over three. The only time I notice the speed drop is when it goes to the last bar of the battery, but it's still cutting. I also did the backing plate swap on my cordless Beast and stepped my 3401 back down to the 4" plate.

 

[Trevine]

I agree with Mike 100%. I have long ditched my free spinning devices. Now I correct with either a rotary or the 3401 first, then polish with my CBeast(XCE cordless). Man what a nice combination to knock out any project. Being able to do that last step polish with the cordless is a true pleasure.

I may try the new corded Supa Beast at some point but my 3401 just keeps working so no reason to change at the moment,

For what its worth, I just got my CBeast and love it. A very capable tool. I did a side by side comparison with the 3401. Using a fresh pad on each, same polish, same pressure, same arm speed, and same number of passes, there is no doubt, the 3401 corrects better/quicker. I think that is just he inherent nature of a corded model having more power. However, I was really surprised that the CBeast really did a pretty good job. Not as good but pretty darn good considering.

Yeah - she just glistens in the garage.








I'll stick to what I shared in post #3 in this article,

FLEX Power Tools Nicknames - All cool tools should have a nickname - not a part number -Mike Phillips



Here's my take on the above 3 gear-driven tools


The BEAST
If I REALLY want to bust out a job and plow through it as fast as humanly possible I use the BEAST.


The Supa BEAST
If not trying to hit Warp Speed - I grab the Supa Beast, much more enjoyable to use. Amazing tool. Smoother, quieter, lighter and cooler than the original.


The CBEAST
If I have an easy job, that means the car has only light swirls, scratches, etc. and I'm not in a hurry then I grab the CBEAST.




I have changed my mind about the 6" backing plate. I much prefer it over the 5" factory backing plate WITH the right pads and right now my favorite 7" pads for the 6" backing plate on the BEAST, the Supa BEAST and the CBEAST are the RUPES yellow and white pads. I'm still not liking the new RUPES blue foam formula.

When cutting or compounding with the BEAST and the Supa BEAST I'm still using the Lake Country Force Hybrid 6.5" Orange Foam Cutting Pad. I'm not sure I'll like this shape or thickness on the CBEAST though. Will do some searching and experimenting.

The CBEAST is a very capable tool. The ability to buff out a car without a power cord is awesome. The GEAR-DRIVEN aspect means no wasting time wit pad stalling. And larger TAPERED foam pads work best with these 3 tools.






Yes. Max power does fall off but I have not monitored at what point. Still - I'll take a a slower rpm/opm with a gear-driven orbital all day over a free spinning.


The BEASTS - All BRAWL - ZERO STALL


Hope that helps...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I agree with Mike 100%. I have long ditched my free spinning devices.

There's still a time and paint "type" for free spinning tools, mostly softer paints where fee spinning random orbital polishers will tend to finish out nicer with less chance for micro-marring.

For what its worth, I just got my CBeast and love it. A very capable tool. I did a side by side comparison with the 3401. Using a fresh pad on each, same polish, same pressure, same arm speed, and same number of passes, there is no doubt, the 3401 corrects better/quicker.

I think that is just he inherent nature of a corded model having more power.

However, I was really surprised that the CBeast really did a pretty good job. Not as good but pretty darn good considering.

Here's a recent article I wrote sharing what I consider the best pad options at this time.


Buffing Pad Recommendations for the FLEX BEASTS Trio - BEAST - Supa BEAST - CBEAST


And I'm going to add the 7" Buff and Shine Uro-Tec foam pads for all the BEASTS.

I've been using them on most of my detail work lately and they work great.

 

[Trevine]

There's still a time and paint "type" for free spinning tools, mostly softer paints where fee spinning random orbital polishers will tend to finish out nicer with less chance for micro-marring.

I know you sell them all so you have to be careful BUT, I have zero issues with soft paint on either of the flex gear driven models I use. IMO, the stalling is just a pure waste of time and hassle.

Soft paint has nothing to do with stalling. Everyone has their preferences for sure but I will take the gear drive in any situation.

Thanks for your support to the detailing community. Now could you please ship my backordered PXE 80????

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Hi Trevine,

Apologies that I just now found your post from back in January of this year, (2021). As I type it's July of 2021, so I'm only late by about 6 months. :bolt:

I know you sell them all so you have to be careful BUT, I have zero issues with soft paint on either of the flex gear driven models I use.

Good to hear and good for you.

IMO, the stalling is just a pure waste of time and hassle.

There's a lot of people that will agree with you and there's also a camp of people that will disagree with you.

Me? I stopped arguing with people years ago. I'm happy with my own opinion based upon decades of experience and I'm also happy with anyone and everyone else's opinions based upon their experience.

But just to point out - there are two opinions or two camps on the topic of pad stalling in our industry. As long as everyone is happy with thier polisher of choice - that's all that matters.

Soft paint has nothing to do with stalling.

I know this and agree. I've NEVER said paint softness or paint hardness has a thing to do with pad stalling. Never.

Everyone has their preferences for sure but I will take the gear drive in any situation.

For most cars and most paint types I also use a gear-driven orbital. My detailing style is not like everyone else's and I'm okay with that. My style is to plow through a car as fast as I can WHILE maintaining pro-grade results.

Thanks for your support to the detailing community.

It's what I do. My first how-to article on the Internet dates back to 1994, that's 27 years in human years as I type this post in the year 2021.

Now could you please ship my back-ordered PXE 80????

I'm hoping by now, 6-months later since you made this post that you have received your FLEX PiXiE. If not, contact customer care as I'm not really involved with processing orders, back orders or shipping. I don't even have the software needed on my work computer.

Here's their number,

1-800-869-3011


:cheers: