System One X3 Polish

If you guys are considering using X3 and don't have a rotary, just head to Harbor Freight and pick one up dirt cheap; that or ebay one.
 
Cheap rotary is a solution but one other thing to note is that X3 is not necessarily what isn't compatible with DAs (i.e PC, UDM, etc). I think the polish would work great. As a matter of fact it would work just as good as say 106ff. The wool pad which was part of the 2 step process that they guys over at SYSTEM ONE designed is the part that really isn't compatible with DAs. I think you would get great results with SYSTEM ONE polish on a PC with a cutting pad first followed by a polishing pad.

Perhaps I will try this with my cyclo and publish the results as soon as I get some free time.
 
I plan on testing my samples with a PC, UDM, FLEX, and a Cyclo. All with various pads.

Who wants to bet that we will have a winner on all machines?

I do.
 
Justin,
Be sure to let us know how the System 1 works with the Flex. We have snow here in Ohio now, so it will be a while before I can try it here. It's way to cold in my garage ,even with a small heater. Sometimes the reason some products do not do what they say ,is we use them in adverse conditions. Extreme heat or cold.:buffing:
 
system one polish is awesome..i love the feel of it...its soooo smooth..also waterbased, and awesome for working in sunlight
 
Showroom Shine said:
Justin,
Be sure to let us know how the System 1 works with the Flex. We have snow here in Ohio now, so it will be a while before I can try it here. It's way to cold in my garage ,even with a small heater. Sometimes the reason some products do not do what they say ,is we use them in adverse conditions. Extreme heat or cold.:buffing:
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:whs: I'm hoping to get the Flex this spring so I'd be very interested in this comparison. I don't quite trust myself with the rotary yet. Thanks for doing this testing for us, Justin!! :righton:
 
I have a question/concern about System 1 that hopefully some of you can help out with...

I wonder how much CC is removed when using a "do-it-all" compound/polish, as a polish, compared to using a dedicated finishing polish?

My thoughts are that it must be more abrasive in order to work as a compound, right? So, even if it is capabable of finishing down as nicely as a dedicated finishing polish, isn't it going to start out more abbrasive and therefore remove more CC? I mean, sure the results would look just as good as long as there is ample CC on the vehicle, but does this violate the rule to use the least agressive product that will get the job done?
 
makdaddy626 said:
I have a question/concern about System 1 that hopefully some of you can help out with...

I wonder how much CC is removed when using a "do-it-all" compound/polish, as a polish, compared to using a dedicated finishing polish?

My thoughts are that it must be more abrasive in order to work as a compound, right? So, even if it is capabable of finishing down as nicely as a dedicated finishing polish, isn't it going to start out more abbrasive and therefore remove more CC? I mean, sure the results would look just as good as long as there is ample CC on the vehicle, but does this violate the rule to use the least agressive product that will get the job done?
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Not really... it's more the wool pad that is doing the cutting so if you are using this simply as a finishing polish, you are not removing more CC than you would with any other finishing polish. As a matter of fact less! This is not a diminishing abrassive so that means that you are not cutting with those larger particles at first. It's more like Menzerna Nano polish with nano particles that are harder yet much smaller (i.e. like a really, really fine grit sand paper... like 50k grit or something).
 
I think the single BIGGEST information I gathered at the Mobile Tech Expo was just how little margin of error a detailer has on today's paint.

Tom from System One had a paint guage and metal test pad. He took a plain piece of paper and put the test pad underneath and measured the thickness of the paper. Approx. 5 mils on the guage. Most of today's cars measure from 3-5 mils thick. Now, add the fact that you have primer, sealer, color coat, and finally clear coat and you get an idea of the narrow margin of paint you are working with. So, if a customer wants to know, show them a piece of paper and tell them that you are working with the top 1/4 of the thickness of a piece of paper....astounding information.

Now, you can work with a 1/10th to 3/10th of a mil removal for correction. (don't know the micron reading, but it's pretty small). So, the product that removes the least amount of clear coat with the most amount of correction is the obvious way to go.

I talked to my dealer (who is/was a huge 3M Extra Cut fan) and showed him as well as demo'd the info about thickness. He really got the message about using very abrasive compounds and is looking at my work accomplished with X3.

Toto
 
I have some of this stuff sitting at my dad's place right now. I might try it on my sister in-laws car next time I do a work up and am feeling spunky (for a free detail anyways).

He used it on my old Malibu a while ago (back in 04 or 05 I believe) and it did a hell of a job.
 
btw, is the wool required for this product. I have some black and green edge pads that are meant for compounding. can't I just use those?
 
gt_nfr said:
btw, is the wool required for this product. I have some black and green edge pads that are meant for compounding. can't I just use those?
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I don't see why not... it would just be a step less aggressive on the cutting step.
 
My understanding from Tom Horvath was you can certainly use foam compounding pads with the X3 product. I'm going to give that process a try on a silver Mercedes this weekend.

Toto
 
Totoland Mach said:
My understanding from Tom Horvath was you can certainly use foam compounding pads with the X3 product. I'm going to give that process a try on a silver Mercedes this weekend.

Toto
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Awesome toto, please post some pics...I can't wait.
 
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