Blackfire AIO plan

Burger

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I have read here every day and night for days. I'm hoping for confirmation on my plan of attack.

2013 Black 4Runner
Always waxed, but very water spotted.
Garaged, driven 3 times/week. 1 mile of dirt road between garage and pavement.

2 bucket wash, blow dry.


Already purchased and plan on using:

Meguiar's clay and lube., including glass

Supa Beast

BF One Step using Lake Country Hybrid pads. Test with white, orange if necessary. If I need the orange, then follow up with another round of one step.
If so, white or black for second round of One Step?

BF BlackICE Hybrid Liquid Wax using LC Hybrid red pads.


I've read wait 24 hours between the One Step and the Wax. I've also read it's ok to apply after an hour. Thoughts?

Also bought Sonax PNS for the hood. Is there a cure time before adding this on top of the wax?

I'm a microfiber addict. Have thick Cobras, Edgeless Cobras, and a lot in between. Think I'm good on towels.

Have pad cleaners, brushes, terry towels, microfiber cleaners, washing machine cleaner.

Have not bought or used a chemical decontaminant. I'm guessing I shouldn't skip this step?


Thanks for any advice. I read a bunch before choosing these products.
 
I have read here every day and night for days. I'm hoping for confirmation on my plan of attack.

2013 Black 4Runner
Always waxed, but very water spotted.
Garaged, driven 3 times/week. 1 mile of dirt road between garage and pavement.

2 bucket wash, blow dry.


Already purchased and plan on using:

Meguiar's clay and lube., including glass

Supa Beast

BF One Step using Lake Country Hybrid pads. Test with white, orange if necessary. If I need the orange, then follow up with another round of one step.
If so, white or black for second round of One Step?

BF BlackICE Hybrid Liquid Wax using LC Hybrid red pads.


I've read wait 24 hours between the One Step and the Wax. I've also read it's ok to apply after an hour. Thoughts?

Also bought Sonax PNS for the hood. Is there a cure time before adding this on top of the wax?

I'm a microfiber addict. Have thick Cobras, Edgeless Cobras, and a lot in between. Think I'm good on towels.

Have pad cleaners, brushes, terry towels, microfiber cleaners, washing machine cleaner.

Have not bought or used a chemical decontaminant. I'm guessing I shouldn't skip this step?


Thanks for any advice. I read a bunch before choosing these products.
Sounds pretty good. I do like the chemical decontamination myself. Just pops more. And if you're using an AIO, it will leave a protective layer behind. Not a long lasting one but will nonetheless. Putting a wax on that means the wax is bonding to the AIO protectant technically and not the paint itself. One can do it, but might not have the longevity.

Also, an AIO typically means going around once... can go around more, but then its a 1 step or 2 step and might as well use a good polish. Idk.... just a thought.

If you do polish instead of AIO, I find, although not necessary, that a panel wipe like eraser, does all that much better in allowing the topper to bond better to paint and not the polish oils.

Good luck

Ryan

Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
I agree, I think you want a polish instead of an AIO if you’re going to follow it with the hybrid wax.
 
HD One is a pretty good product for this sort of thing.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
I use blackfire one step.....it cleans...polishes...protects.....and if you want to you can top it with Blackfire SIO2 sealant a good combo
 
You’ll be fine with just one pass. If the paint is soft, white pad will do it. If it’s medium or hard, orange will finish well enough to be done. When using an AIO you’re looking for enhancement and not perfection. Wait a few weeks for the wax in the AIO to start diminishing and then apply the other wax/sealant you wanted to top it with.
 
I have never worried about topping an AIO. I do it all the time with no ill effects.

Also, unless your paint is super soft, you might be pleasantly surprised at how well BF One Step finishes down with LC Orange pads. I'll be willing to bet that you will not need a second "go-round" with another pad.

:)
 
Blackfire One Step is a joy to use. It has good working time, so if you are aiming for a bit more correction, you can do multiple passes without it drying out on you. I like to do a test spot first to make sure my process has enough correction for my goals. I would only use "One Step" of polishing with this stuff. An orange pad may be necessary to cut through the water spots you have, but test the white pad first. Black Toyota paint is pretty soft, so always start with the least aggressive method.

You can do a small section with 2-4 passes and wipe it off immediately and inspect with a good light to see if it is getting the results you want. After you dial in which pad works best, go around the entire vehicle with it before wiping it off. This gives it time to bond with the paint well, as well as makes it even easier to wipe off.

At this point, it's had enough time to set and can be topped with the Blackfire hybrid wax immediately. With this you will also want to go around the entire vehicle, give it time to bond to the paint, and then wipe it off. Anything else on top of that would be best to do after 12-24 hours.

Good luck, you will enjoy using these products!
 
BF One Step using Lake Country Hybrid pads.

BF BlackICE Hybrid Liquid Wax using LC Hybrid red pads.

That'll work. My guess is the white pads with the Supa BEAST will be more then enough. If this is a daily driver, that's all I would do. I wouldn't use the orange cutting pads and aim for 100% defect removal as I would rather get good results, not show car results and preserve the clearcoat. Again there's a difference between doing show car work and daily drivers.


I've read wait 24 hours between the One Step and the Wax. I've also read it's ok to apply after an hour. Thoughts?

I don't wait at all. As soon as I've wiped of the BF One Step I machine apply the BlackIce.



Also bought Sonax PNS for the hood. Is there a cure time before adding this on top of the wax?

Not really. My guess is the act of RUBBING the PNS over the paint that has been finished with BF One Step and whatever carrying agents are used in the PNS will remove whatever BF One Step is on the surface and replace it with the PNS.

So no waiting - just apply.


Have not bought or used a chemical decontaminant. I'm guessing I shouldn't skip this step?

I used to use iron remover, fallout removers before every wash. Then after Autogeek was sold to Vision Investments, out of the blue the fine print in the lease agreement that stated we could not wash cars outside started getting enforced, thus the reason you see me washing cars inside the garage, not outside.

Since then I stopped using iron removers. But for what it's worth - I've seen iron removers stain anodized aluminum trim. It's incredibly difficult to do ANY type of restoration work on anodized aluminum. I've fixed it using BLACKFIRE One Step with a microfiber pad on the RUPES Nano in rotary mode - but I don't ever want to do it again.

So yeah... I just stopped using these types of products - for now.


:)
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I'm excited to pull my 4Runner in the shop and enjoy taking my time doing the whole thing.

And Mike, I was looking for a reason to not use an iron remover...cool!

This time I will take before and after pics.

Glanced at TapaTalk for posting pictures, but haven't gotten into it yet. If I'm going the TapaTalk route, I should take pics with my phone, and not a dedicated camera...yes?
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I'm excited to pull my 4Runner in the shop and enjoy taking my time doing the whole thing.

And Mike, I was looking for a reason to not use an iron remover...cool!

This time I will take before and after pics.

Glanced at TapTalk for posting pictures, but haven't gotten into it yet. If I'm going the TapTalk route, I should take pics with my phone, and not a dedicated camera...yes?

Yes sir. :)
 
Well, another question.

I expect to use one white pad per panel with the One Step.

What about the BlackICE Wax? How many red pads is appropriate for the entire 4Runner?
 
Thanks Mike.

This is going to be fun and satisfying.
 
Blackfire one step works great.

I took the advise of Mike Phillips and used it on my black lifted Chevy.


3 year old paint with swirls looks nearly like new after the one step. I also topped it with Blackfire Hybrid Liquid Wax. The result is a head turner.

7b3d05f1fa0540b888b51c670f154e3b.jpg


Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk



:buffing:
 
Starting on this tomorrow morning. First rinseless wash, then clay.

I'm not sure at what speed to run my SupaBEAST. Will be doing a test spot with LC Hybrid White pads, 8 passes per section.

Since I'm treating this as a correction step, I'm guessing speed setting 5?

Thanks
 
From Mike Phillips...


Mike Phillips said:
"That'll work. My guess is the white pads with the Supa BEAST will be more then enough. If this is a daily driver, that's all I would do.

I wouldn't use the orange cutting pads and aim for 100% defect removal as I would rather get good results, not show car results and preserve the clearcoat.

Again there's a difference between doing show car work and daily drivers."


=========================


My daily Drivers look great from 3 feet.

That's the rule I've been following for some time now.


:dblthumb2:
 
Glanced at TapaTalk for posting pictures, but haven't gotten into it yet. If I'm going the TapaTalk route, I should take pics with my phone, and not a dedicated camera...yes?

Yes. Most phones have cameras that are more than adequette for this type of photography work. The key is make sure the camera lens is clean, I wipe mine before every shot. Then frame-up your shot and hold the phone as still as possible.

You can download the right software from my article here,

The easy way to share a picture on a forum - Tapatalk App for your cell phone


I've always wanted to create a how-to video on how to set-up TapaTalk but have never gotten to it.

If you fumble around in the interface enough it's easy enough to figure out.


  1. You'll need to locate AutogeekOnline.net and then login via the TapaTalk App.
  2. Then locate or start a thread in the right forum group.
  3. Then poke around in the interface and you should be able to see how to add pictures you've taken.

Once you figure it out the first time it's easy after that.




Starting on this tomorrow morning. First rinseless wash, then clay.

I'm not sure at what speed to run my Supa BEAST. Will be doing a test spot with LC Hybrid White pads, 8 passes per section.

Since I'm treating this as a correction step, I'm guessing speed setting 5?

Thanks


Yes - Speed 5 is a good learning speed and also a fine speed for most people.

Me? I tend to turn it up to speed 6 and leave it there. The lower speeds are good for Newbies when starting out to "spread out" the product they're using over a section of paint but after that - turn it up!


Just to note - On the CBEAST, (cordless BEAST), I run a strip of tape around the polisher to LOCK the speed setting onto the 6 speed setting as it's too easy to fumble your hand/fingers and move the speed setting to a slower speed.

FLEX_CBEAST_Mike_Phillips.JPG




With the Supa BEAST - I just pay attention to the speed dial and also the sound of the motor as I'm running the polisher. When someone from FLEX reads this thread - PLEASE upgrade your tools so the speed dials have a ratcheting feature where the speed dial will click or lock into place, not be a smooth moving dial. Thank you.

I don't use this tool or recommend to anyone to use this tool on any speed setting below the 4 speed setting. It's at the 4 speed setting the tool and pad interface between the paint - smooths out.



:)
 
Thanks Mike.

Got R Done

Took pictures before and after. I will post it all up soon.
 
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