Ceramic Coating Haze

rover137 said:
I’ve never had issues with edges before with coatings. I have always been told to wipe within your square with the first towel and then use your second towel to blend the edges in. Thanks for tip, might try this if I end up redoing it. Part of me
Just wants to leave it and move on.

How many panels did you have to recoat? I’m afraid I would nearly have to recoat the entire car if that is the case.


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3 was a pain but i just like the candy gloss i got from coatings….. let alone the protection


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The Guz said:
Sounds like it’s time to polish those panels and recoat.
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Can't even recall how many times I've had to do that.

Sounds like the way to go in this situation though!
 
noorth said:
I've used Nv EVO and it was easy to work with in my experience. But you have to work quickly, no 3-5 minutes sitting on the panel before wipe off. I did use a microfiber applicator however those suede blocks are horrible in my opinion, i really don't understand why so many coating companies include them in their kits. For instance, Gyeon seems to be one of the first big brands, here at least, that have finally smarter up and put microfiber applicators in their kits.

And yes get some painter's tape and tape off the sections to re-polish, you have nothing to lose. Its actually how i coated my car in sections over multiple days.

I removed c.quartz UK on my truck lid one time with the rupes yellow foam, 3D one and a 15mm DA on speed 4.5 in no time. It was about 2 days old with all kinds of high spots due mostly to those horrible suede cloths, i never used them again.

I would like to give credit to Phil of the Miranda detailing channel for putting me onto microfiber applicators for coatings, it really is a night and day difference. I'm actually surprised it doesn't come up more on the forums.
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Those microfiber applicators are a no go for me. The guys that still use them at the shop are still having high spot, smear, and line issues.

One day I was having such a hard time with our Xpel Fusion Plus that I tried the applicator that was in the kit, and I haven't looked back since.

I do find that with the CarPro coatings, they like a fresh suede once in a while.

My perspective might be off though, because I cut my teeth with glass bottle coatings on Ceramic Pro and Xpel pro coatings. The Xpel I can work with but the Ceramic Pro was a truly maddening time to be a "skilled technician". Probably why I still sleep with a syringe of Gloss Coat on the night stand! Well.. No. That's because of the winter temps...
 
Coatingsarecrack said:
3 was a pain but i just like the candy gloss i got from coatings….. let alone the protection


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My car already had a coating on it that was still
performing. Why I change up perfectly performing products I don’t know.

I’d have to do everything but the roof and rear if I don’t spot correct..


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rover137 said:
That is what I was expecting as well but it was so difficult to level for whatever reason. I spoke to a rep as before applying and was told to wait 90 seconds to start with and play around from there. I even tried immediate wipe off and it was just so difficult still. I used a microfibre applicator as well as this is what I have always used with coatings and don’t know any different.

What sections did you tape off? Did you go panel by panel? Mine are in random areas and nearly every panel would need to be touched other then the roof. How long did it take you to remove from your trunk and how many passes? I have Orange SDOs which are similar to the Rupes yellow and I have Scholl S20 which is similar to 3D One I think.


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Yeah the orange SDO and S20 are very similar i believe. I can't really remember how i taped the car off, i went mostly panel by panel but when i got more comfortable i did bigger sections.

I will mention carpro-us doesn't recommend S20 before a coating because it is so oily. You should probably do a dawn soap wash or similar before laying down the coating. The dawn soap recommendation is from gyeon actually. I will use a primer polish this year so i haven't got to worry about getting the panels free of polishing oils. The added bonus is they are very nice to use, i have gyeon primer. And i love machine polishing lol

Gyeon pure is going on my car this year.
 
noorth said:
Yeah the orange SDO and S20 are very similar i believe. I can't really remember how i taped the car off, i went mostly panel by panel but when i got more comfortable i did bigger sections.

I will mention carpro-us doesn't recommend S20 before a coating because it is so oily. You should probably do a dawn soap wash or similar before laying down the coating. The dawn soap recommendation is from gyeon actually. I will use a primer polish this year so i haven't got to worry about getting the panels free of polishing oils. The added bonus is they are very nice to use, i have gyeon primer. And i love machine polishing lol

Gyeon pure is going on my car this year.
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I would have to do almost every panel if I were to aim for perfection like I got with my last detail and coating application.

I used S30 before coating and it also is pretty oily. I washed with a high alkaline soap before coating and then did a panel wipe. Maybe I need to move to a primer as well as all this panel wiping and washing just adds to the task and eats up more time and energy! I also love machine polishing but usually about mid way through a 12-14hr polishing day when my body is aching… I start to get over it haha the definitely happened this time around.


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BudgetPlan1 said:
FWIW, my experience with NV Nova EVO: Glass/Quartz/Ceramic Coatings – Kamikaze Miyabi, ISM, Zipang, NV Nova EVO, 22ple, Cquartz, Gtechniq CSL, EXO and more. | Life's tough, wear a helmet.

Was one of those "work in 24"x24" section" deals; slower than some others but overall enjoyable.
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Thanks - have read that a couple times and again before I did my coating.

As I’ve said above, I really can’t explain why it was so difficult to level. I also worked in small areas and tried to do everything right.


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You've got the best experts weighing in, so all I can offer is condolences.

My heart goes out to ya. When I tried CanCoat (hardly a coating, I know!), I discovered my lighting setup was not conducive to a stress free application process. Really emphasized for me how much I just want detailing time to be stress relief time, not stress inducing. Since then I stick with products I know will be easy to work with.
 
I had a bad experience with applying a coating a few years back. The wipe off was horrendous. Haze that just couldnt be wiped off easily. I came to the conclusion that it was a bad bottle since the issue went away when I used a new bottle of the same product. Wondering if this could be the issue here.
 
oneheadlite said:
You've got the best experts weighing in, so all I can offer is condolences.

My heart goes out to ya. When I tried CanCoat (hardly a coating, I know!), I discovered my lighting setup was not conducive to a stress free application process. Really emphasized for me how much I just want detailing time to be stress relief time, not stress inducing. Since then I stick with products I know will be easy to work with.
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Thanks mate. I do love the performance of a coating and I was very excited to apply it. Apart from those few areas the car does potentially look the best it has ever looked. I’ll fix up these issues and have a think about if I want to use coatings anymore. They are great, but there are also other disadvantages that they bring to the table. I sometimes wonder if we compromise our objectives in the pursuit of the ‘best’ protection or the ‘most’ gloss. Water spots aren’t exactly great for paint - for example.


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psnt1ol said:
I had a bad experience with applying a coating a few years back. The wipe off was horrendous. Haze that just couldnt be wiped off easily. I came to the conclusion that it was a bad bottle since the issue went away when I used a new bottle of the same product. Wondering if this could be the issue here.
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I honestly don’t know what to make of the experience. I’d be happy for it to be a user issue so that I could learn and move forward and not make these mistakes again. I know the haze in the areas I reapplied the coating are obviously a user issue, but before that there was still haze in parts as well as highspots and it was very difficult to level. Definitely not synonymous with how the coating is meant to be. It’s one of the most user friendly coatings on the market.


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I remember reading an interview with Dr. G, one of the early originators of coatings, and he said they made it for people that did not want to detail their cars and wash their cars every week, something that would be much more permanent. So I went ahead and used several coatings for a few years and then decided , why do I need a permanent coating? As a hobby detailer I don’t mind doing my car every six months or something, so I did move to silicone sprays and wipe on semi coatings I guess you would call them. I just use cancoat this week and was very impressed with the ease of use to put on the semi permanent coating.

I have probably coated 8 to 10 cars with various coatings, Cquartz 22 PLE, opti-coat and a few others that I forgot, and twice I’ve had the polisher out getting rid of mistakes, getting rid of all of it because I had the same situation as here, or dark in spots , or just bad distribution of the product. I had a anthracite Corvette C7 that absolutely had mistakes all over it even though I had used the same absolute process and bottle a week before on another car and it was perfect. And both surfaces were pristine/corrected/clean, it wasn’t something that reacted with the paint, it was just a mess.I never wanna go through that again.

Just my opinion, those of you that are happy with the permanent coatings, have at it.

And don’t get me going about RELOAD, at least the first version of it, that product is death from above…
 
glen e said:
I remember reading an interview with Dr. G, one of the early originators of coatings, and he said they made it for people that did not want to detail their cars and wash their cars every week, something that would be much more permanent. So I went ahead and used several coatings for a few years and then decided , why do I need a permanent coating? As a hobby detailer I don’t mind doing my car every six months or something, so I did move to silicone sprays and wipe on semi coatings I guess you would call them. I just use cancoat this week and was very impressed with the ease of use to put on the semi permanent coating.

I have probably coated 8 to 10 cars with various coatings, Cquartz 22 PLE, opti-coat and a few others that I forgot, and twice I’ve had the polisher out getting rid of mistakes, getting rid of all of it because I had the same situation as here, or dark in spots , or just bad distribution of the product. I had a Corvette C7 that absolutely had mistakes all over it even though I had used the same absolute process and bottle a week before on another car and it was perfect. And both surfaces were pristine/corrected/clean, it wasn’t something that reacted with the paint, it was just a mess.I never wanna go through that again.

Just my opinion, those of you that are happy with the permanent coatings, have at it.

And don’t get me going about RELOAD, at least the first version of it, that product is death from above…
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I hear you - I never want to go through what I went through the other day again either.
Everything was just going so wrong no matter what I did, and after all that time prepping it was incredibly frustrating. Especially as you have to keep the car off the road for even longer if you want to fix it right away, or schedule more days in if you want to do it all over again. I planned this detail months in advance as I had to take time off work and figure out where not having a car for 3-5 days was possible. Then there is the prep I have to do in my garage to get ready which is about half day as well. As well as scheduling based on weather. If I had a proper studio or area to wash and detail it wouldn’t be as hard logistically. If I took the coating out of my full detail process it would certainly speed things up quite a bit! All part of learning I guess!


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I think one of two things have happened here.

Firstly, you may have got a compromised bottle of product.

Secondly, perhaps something has not gone right during the prep process. Could the problem you had with Immolube have something to do with it?
 
DFB said:
I think one of two things have happened here.

Firstly, you may have got a compromised bottle of product.

Secondly, perhaps something has not gone right during the prep process. Could the problem you had with Immolube have something to do with it?
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While I’d like to say my prep was sound, there is always a risk something didn’t go right. I feel like I did more than required for prep, but you never know.

To remove the immolube residue I did a rinseless ONR wash followed by a wipe down with Eraser. This removed it quite easily. After this I polished. While polishing I wiped down most panels with Eraser once finished with them.

After polishing, I snow foamed the car with CarPro Lift and washed the car with Snow+ in a bucket (another high alkaline soap) while also spraying panels down with Snow+ at 1:10 in a spray bottle. After washing I did a pretty thorough wipe down with Eraser. I then coated.


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rover137 said:
While I’d like to say my prep was sound, there is always a risk something didn’t go right. I feel like I did more than required for prep, but you never know.

To remove the immolube residue I did a rinseless ONR wash followed by a wipe down with Eraser. This removed it quite easily. After this I polished. While polishing I wiped down most panels with Eraser once finished with them.

After polishing, I snow foamed the car with CarPro Lift and washed the car with Snow+ in a bucket (another high alkaline soap) while also spraying panels down with Snow+ at 1:10 in a spray bottle. After washing I did a pretty thorough wipe down with Eraser. I then coated.


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I would consider that prep to be very thorough. I would be thinking you got a dud batch of EVO.
 
DFB said:
I would consider that prep to be very thorough. I would be thinking you got a dud batch of EVO.
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Im leaning towards that as well, but I guess I still can’t rule out something going wrong.


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rover137 said:
While I’d like to say my prep was sound, there is always a risk something didn’t go right. I feel like I did more than required for prep, but you never know.

To remove the immolube residue I did a rinseless ONR wash followed by a wipe down with Eraser. This removed it quite easily. After this I polished. While polishing I wiped down most panels with Eraser once finished with them.

After polishing, I snow foamed the car with CarPro Lift and washed the car with Snow+ in a bucket (another high alkaline soap) while also spraying panels down with Snow+ at 1:10 in a spray bottle. After washing I did a pretty thorough wipe down with Eraser. I then coated.


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IMO you went way overboard on the prep after polishing.

ALL ya needed was a prep spray of some sort(i use megs m122).

To many folks get caught up in overthinking the entire coating process

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opie said:
IMO you went way overboard on the prep after polishing.

ALL ya needed was a prep spray of some sort(i use megs m122).

To many folks get caught up in overthinking the entire coating process

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Yeah I know, it is just a hobby for me and I had the time and the products so I thought why not. Better to do more than less I guess.


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