DFB's Garage

Was going to be either Gyeon Pure EVO or CanCoat EVO.

I don't think I quite have enough Pure to do the whole car though, so probably CanCoat. In any case, I really liked applying CanCoat so I'm happy with that and Dad won't know the difference. :laughing:
You could use up your remaining Pure EVO and finish up with CanCoat? I say this because it would be a good test for durability, well unless he's like you with the WildTrack

I'd maybe start with the top surfaces atleast, I bet your not heavy handed with the costing and could stretch it out

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Was going to be either Gyeon Pure EVO or CanCoat EVO.

I don't think I quite have enough Pure to do the whole car though, so probably CanCoat. In any case, I really liked applying CanCoat so I'm happy with that and Dad won't know the difference. :laughing:
How much ya got left of pure?

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Was going to be either Gyeon Pure EVO or CanCoat EVO.

I don't think I quite have enough Pure to do the whole car though, so probably CanCoat. In any case, I really liked applying CanCoat so I'm happy with that and Dad won't know the difference. :laughing:

Pure on the sides, fronts and CC on verticals.


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Pure on the sides, fronts and CC on verticals.


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I like this idea better than what I said because those vertical panels get everything kicked up on them. One thing to consider though is where these guys live, that sun is hot!

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How does the OG decon soap compare to Descale?

No comparison. OG is more on the alkaline side while Descale is on the acidic side.

Correct, OG is an Alkaline soap, Descale is acidic. Both function well for strip washing, overall Descale has an edge for cleaning grunt.

Descale measure about 3.7 in pH.





OG Decon Soap is claimed to be a pH of 10.0.
 
Holiday Project Four - Decontamination, Polishing & Coating the Wildtrack Part 2

A relaxed start to today's proceedings and I have been blessed with lovely mild weather for this job.

I began with a wipe down using Carpro Eraser. The car was largely covered overnight, so this step is about ensuring a clean surface for coating. Even though I used a primer polish that leaves something behind, Carpro and Gyeon still recommend a wipe down with their prep spray.



Towel of choice is my regular polishing towel, the TRC Creature Edgeless. I love this towel for its versatility, it also does service as my softer interior towel and door jamb drying towel and is decent value for money.

I had two choices for the coating, having just enough Gyeon Pure EVO remaining from last week and plenty of Gyeon Can Coat EVO. Ultimately, I wanted to have both coatings running side by side in terms of observing their qualities and characteristics. In a technical sense, this Ranger should probably have been coated in the more durable Pure, and the Jag in Can Coat. However, it will be interesting to see how Can Coat performs in conditions other than garage queen statis.





Can Coat is also simpler to apply than traditional ceramic coatings, being a spray, wipe and buff application. Some would argue that it's not a real coating, and I can appreciate that sentiment. The water behavior that Can Coat exhibits would beg to differ.

Now, the Gyeon recommended application is to use a folded towel to work the product into the panel, I personally prefer to apply the product with a microfiber brick. The initial application involves 4 -5 sprays to prime the brick, from then onwards 2 - 3 sprays is all that is needed per panel. Never apply the product directly to the car, also never spray the applicator close to the vehicle. I had my cart set up away from the car, returning to the cart after each panel to reapply. The product is wiped on, then wiped off immediately with a low pile towel.



Again, such a big vehicle takes a while to get around. The hooded rear sailplane that shades the rear window was a pain throughout the detail, necessitating a need to climb in and out of the tub to deal with the top and underside of this part, as well as dealing with the glass.

After the paint and trim was coated, I coated the glass with my go-to glass sealant, Gyeon Quick View. Same as last week, CanCoat could have been used here instead, but I just really like using Quick View.



From here on, the rest of the detail focused on more regular tasks. Due to focusing on the exterior decontamination, I forgot to wash the rubber floor mats, so this was the first step in regard to the interior.





Finishing off the mats, I applied Koch Chemie GUF to add some luster back to them without inducing slipperiness.



As mentioned in the last post, this car has been used full up for a couple of road trips, so it needed just a little more than usual. After a vacuum, I started by cleaning the leather. Typically, all I need here is an all-in-one type product, Bowden's Leather Love being my go-to. Today, I used Koch Chemie Pol Star at 5:1 with a VLB brush.



Pol Star is a pH neutral textile cleaner that can be adjusted to suit cleaning needs. I like how this foams up under agitation and then wipes away to a clean, matte finish. For big interiors, it's also very good value for money.







Finishing off the leather, I used NV Nourish, again a product I like for it's low sheen finish.



Normally I would then wipe the interior plastics down with something like Carpro InnerQD or Koch Chemie ASC. Again, I felt several areas needed a proper clean today, P&S Express was used here aided by a brush where required. I love the smell of Express!





I then followed that with a wipe down with Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer, I like this over a dressing because a) it's quicker and b) that is leaves a matte finish. QID also leaves behind a small amount of UV protection.



The exterior glass was dealt with after removing the Quick View residue, the interior I teamed with a microfiber brick. This method I find great for dirtier interior glass as it allows for more even pressure when dealing with a buildup of film and fingerprints. Which leads me to ask why the hell you would be touching the glass with your fingers? :rulez: Again, not my car so I keep my mouth shut.



With the mats reinstalled, the interior was done. Returning to the exterior, I opened the hood and gave the engine bay a very quick wipe to level down any high spots from the application of Hyper Dressing yesterday. This step is so satisfying, minimal effort resulting in brilliant results.



The final step was to the dress the tyres, in this case using a new product in the form of Carpro Darkside.





I have seen reviews of Darkside where the supplied pump action trigger would not lift and dispense the product. I bypassed that entirely and simply fitted a pop-top lid I had in stock.



Applied with a foam applicator, Darkside is a tyre dressing you have to work for! This is not the silky-smooth application that products like Carpro Perl or NV Onyx exhibit, Darkside really needs to me worked into the rubber, most likely exaggerated by these particular tyres. Carpro claim Darkside can last up to 3 months, it will be interesting to see if this pans out.





Overall, the finish created by Darkside is very pleasing, producing a uniformly dark, rich finish.

And that concludes this project.









The vehicle is three years old this March and sports a few parking indiscretions and still has not been repaired after some meth-head kicked the rear quarter panel in last year. But it still presents very well, especially after an intense two-day detail.

The big question is, will the Old-Man even notice? :rolleyes:
 
Correct, OG is an Alkaline soap, Descale is acidic. Both function well for strip washing, overall Descale has an edge for cleaning grunt.

Descale measure about 3.7 in pH.





OG Decon Soap is claimed to be a pH of 10.0.

I like the ABC ValuGard method or Labocosmetica method ( don’t know who did it first).

Acid Wash followed by alkaline wash followed by PH neutral. Get’s coatings pure clean.


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Holiday Project Four - Decontamination, Polishing & Coating the Wildtrack Part 2

A relaxed start to today's proceedings and I have been blessed with lovely mild weather for this job.

I began with a wipe down using Carpro Eraser. The car was largely covered overnight, so this step is about ensuring a clean surface for coating. Even though I used a primer polish that leaves something behind, Carpro and Gyeon still recommend a wipe down with their prep spray.



Towel of choice is my regular polishing towel, the TRC Creature Edgeless. I love this towel for its versatility, it also does service as my softer interior towel and door jamb drying towel and is decent value for money.

I had two choices for the coating, having just enough Gyeon Pure EVO remaining from last week and plenty of Gyeon Can Coat EVO. Ultimately, I wanted to have both coatings running side by side in terms of observing their qualities and characteristics. In a technical sense, this Ranger should probably have been coated in the more durable Pure, and the Jag in Can Coat. However, it will be interesting to see how Can Coat performs in conditions other than garage queen statis.





Can Coat is also simpler to apply than traditional ceramic coatings, being a spray, wipe and buff application. Some would argue that it's not a real coating, and I can appreciate that sentiment. The water behavior that Can Coat exhibits would beg to differ.

Now, the Gyeon recommended application is to use a folded towel to work the product into the panel, I personally prefer to apply the product with a microfiber brick. The initial application involves 4 -5 sprays to prime the brick, from then onwards 2 - 3 sprays is all that is needed per panel. Never apply the product directly to the car, also never spray the applicator close to the vehicle. I had my cart set up away from the car, returning to the cart after each panel to reapply. The product is wiped on, then wiped off immediately with a low pile towel.



Again, such a big vehicle takes a while to get around. The hooded rear sailplane that shades the rear window was a pain throughout the detail, necessitating a need to climb in and out of the tub to deal with the top and underside of this part, as well as dealing with the glass.

After the paint and trim was coated, I coated the glass with my go-to glass sealant, Gyeon Quick View. Same as last week, CanCoat could have been used here instead, but I just really like using Quick View.



From here on, the rest of the detail focused on more regular tasks. Due to focusing on the exterior decontamination, I forgot to wash the rubber floor mats, so this was the first step in regard to the interior.





Finishing off the mats, I applied Koch Chemie GUF to add some luster back to them without inducing slipperiness.



As mentioned in the last post, this car has been used full up for a couple of road trips, so it needed just a little more than usual. After a vacuum, I started by cleaning the leather. Typically, all I need here is an all-in-one type product, Bowden's Leather Love being my go-to. Today, I used Koch Chemie Pol Star at 5:1 with a VLB brush.



Pol Star is a pH neutral textile cleaner that can be adjusted to suit cleaning needs. I like how this foams up under agitation and then wipes away to a clean, matte finish. For big interiors, it's also very good value for money.







Finishing off the leather, I used NV Nourish, again a product I like for it's low sheen finish.



Normally I would then wipe the interior plastics down with something like Carpro InnerQD or Koch Chemie ASC. Again, I felt several areas needed a proper clean today, P&S Express was used here aided by a brush where required. I love the smell of Express!





I then followed that with a wipe down with Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer, I like this over a dressing because a) it's quicker and b) that is leaves a matte finish. QID also leaves behind a small amount of UV protection.



The exterior glass was dealt with after removing the Quick View residue, the interior I teamed with a microfiber brick. This method I find great for dirtier interior glass as it allows for more even pressure when dealing with a buildup of film and fingerprints. Which leads me to ask why the hell you would be touching the glass with your fingers? :rulez: Again, not my car so I keep my mouth shut.



With the mats reinstalled, the interior was done. Returning to the exterior, I opened the hood and gave the engine bay a very quick wipe to level down any high spots from the application of Hyper Dressing yesterday. This step is so satisfying, minimal effort resulting in brilliant results.



The final step was to the dress the tyres, in this case using a new product in the form of Carpro Darkside.





I have seen reviews of Darkside where the supplied pump action trigger would not lift and dispense the product. I bypassed that entirely and simply fitted a pop-top lid I had in stock.



Applied with a foam applicator, Darkside is a tyre dressing you have to work for! This is not the silky-smooth application that products like Carpro Perl or NV Onyx exhibit, Darkside really needs to me worked into the rubber, most likely exaggerated by these particular tyres. Carpro claim Darkside can last up to 3 months, it will be interesting to see if this pans out.





Overall, the finish created by Darkside is very pleasing, producing a uniformly dark, rich finish.

And that concludes this project.









The vehicle is three years old this March and sports a few parking indiscretions and still has not been repaired after some meth-head kicked the rear quarter panel in last year. But it still presents very well, especially after an intense two-day detail.

The big question is, will the Old-Man even notice? :rolleyes:

Farking oth Deyon looks better than new! :pc7424::autowash::cruisin:
 
Looks great. I forget if you had a 30 or 50 ml bottle of Pure.

Don’t drive it and DarkSide will last you that 3 months . Realistically 6 weeks on a daily that sees the outside world.
 
Interesting day! Two deliveries arrived this morning as I was preparing to wash the Ranger.

The first of which was an impulsive, late-night purchase. They were on sale; how could I resist? :D



Wowo's came to prominence a few years ago when The Rag Company took them on and started promoting, distributing and selling their products. A Scottish brand founded in 2013, TRC were intending on manufacturing the products is the USA. But then Covid hit and those plans were scrapped and the brand discontinued from the TRC lineup. Shortly after the company then changed hands.

I knew the products were well regarded but I never really bothered with them, mainly because of the silly brand name. More on these products soon.

The second order was from a favorite supplier -



The main reason for the order was for Hydes Serum Rustopper, teamed with a Pressol bottle and label. I suspect I was the first person in Australia to "accidentally" get a bottle of this last year, now it's freely available.



Next, an upgrade to my pressure washer in the form of a Mosmatic 3/8 quick connect.



This part is fitted to the Kranzle hose outlet, connecting the hose to the gun. My pressure washer was originally sent with a Chinese made brass MTM fitting. Detailing shed now offer Swiss made stainless steel Mosmatic versions, offering a more precise fitting.



These fittings do not need Teflon tape, firm torquing and the washer seated in the hose fitting does the sealing. Those washers are considered a consumable so it's a good idea to keep a couple in stock to replace when required.





And finally, a new product from The Rag Company, the Ultra Utility Brush.





I was actually quite surprised at how big this brush is!







The brush itself was designed for multiple applications including interior cleaning, exterior cleaning, tyre dressing and wheel cleaning. The wooden handle is an interesting decision, I can see this being a weak point if exposed to water a lot.

So, a collection of new products and no delayed gratification, they got put to use straight away!

The Ultra Utility Brush I decided to use as a wheel cleaning brush, it's too big for interior cleaning for my tastes and I really don't use a brush on other exterior surfaces save for wheels and occasionally the engine bay.







Here, I have teamed it with NV Snow for cleaning the wheels. The bristles are soft enough to be safe while still being effective at cleaning. On a simple wheel design like this, the UUB is a brilliant one step cleaning process, eliminating the need for a separate lug nut brush.

Onto the paint, and I decided to jump right in and try out the Wowo's products, in this case their pH neutral Detailer's Shampoo.









There are a few key factors that lead me to liking a soap -

- A runny consistency which is easy to pour. A tick of approval here for the Wowo's.

- Scent. A pointless factor but important to me. Another tick for Wowo's.

- Be free of additional gloss enhancers or waxes. Tick!

- Foam well. Tick!

- Be ultra slick. Tick!

- Rinse freely. Tick, Tick, Tick!

As soon as I put the wash pad on the paint, I knew instantly that this soap is a winner. As you can see, it just ticks all the boxes. The rinse-off was stunning, moving off the paint with no repeated passes whatsoever. If this product remains available, I will certainly be re-ordering this excellent soap! :xyxthumbs:

Onto the drying aid, Wowo's Showstopper.



I sort of knew the outcome here, but I guess you never know for sure until you try. This product is used purely for gloss enhancement, very similar in concept to P&S Dream Maker..............and similar to use as well. And that's the problem, I don't like Dream Maker. For whatever reason, I could never make Dream Maker work for me, Showstopper is similar in that it seems to just smear around too much. You really need to use Showstopper with two towels, one to spread it out and one to buff it clear. And even then, it can still leave steaking. I did not overuse the product either, a few sprays into the towel to prime it and then one or two sprays per panel. Either way, not a product for me.

So, it's one all in terms of today's scoreboard.

Next, Wowo's Glass Cleaner.



Glass cleaners are a much of a muchness, although there are still standouts among the crowd. This product is ok, delivering streak free results as you would expect. It isn't at the top of my list though, Gyeon Glass Cleaner, Stoners Invisible Glass and P&S Tru Vue still hold those spots.

Score Board - 1 Hit, 2 Misses.

The last product from Wowo's to try was their Interior Finisher.

This is an interior quick detailer which offers UV protection and anti-static properties. Again, this was a product that I knew I was going to like the moment I started wiping. For me, I just loved how it wiped on and over the interior plastics, leaving a non-greasy matte finish. The scent is said to be "fresh", my interpterion being that of green apples with touch of mint thrown in for good measure. Again, another product I would re-order, I loved using it! :xyxthumbs:

The Final Scores - 2 winners, 2 Losers.

Last step was to dress the tyres, deciding to use Carpro Darkside again today.



Once last thing to mention today, pad cleaning.



I typically soak my pads overnight in Bowden's Microfiber Cleaner, however the last two times I have used Carpro Lift. Being an alkaline product, this would be similar to soaking your pads in APC but with the benefit of being easier to rinse the product out at the end. I then run the pads through the washing machine with P&S Rags to Riches, but to be fair, the Lift did a brilliant job all by itself.
 
Looks great. I forget if you had a 30 or 50 ml bottle of Pure.

Don’t drive it and DarkSide will last you that 3 months . Realistically 6 weeks on a daily that sees the outside world.

I suspected as much. :xyxthumbs:
 
A question for the brains trust -

The Jaguar is going in for a service tomorrow and I'll need to wash it afterwards. The coating will be 10 days old when I want to do this.

In the instructions for Pure EVO, Gyeon state "do not wash the car with any strong detergents within the first 14 days." Would that include a rinse-less wash product like ONR or Absolute?
 
A question for the brains trust -

The Jaguar is going in for a service tomorrow and I'll need to wash it afterwards. The coating will be 10 days old when I want to do this.

In the instructions for Pure EVO, Gyeon state "do not wash the car with any strong detergents within the first 14 days." Would that include a rinse-less wash product like ONR or Absolute?
Dont have the knowledge that some like Guz has on tbis topic, so this is strickly my personal opinion so take it fwiw.(not much haha).

Personally i would be comfortable doing an onr rinsless(nerver tried absolute) on my personal fleet if it is needed at 10 days. Hell i did a waterless wash wipedown on my pickup 4 days after pure evo application cuz we were taking it to a wedding

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Detailing Shed is really stepping up the game with product's,
Hey Deyon i washed my brother's 2004 Rav4 last week it's his daily driver and i used 150ml of carpro lift and i found that it didn't really pull that much off the paint work, but in saying thst he had baked on bee poo on the roof that didn't budge.

Should i go up to 200ml
 
Detailing Shed is really stepping up the game with product's,
Hey Deyon i washed my brother's 2004 Rav4 last week it's his daily driver and i used 150ml of carpro lift and i found that it didn't really pull that much off the paint work, but in saying thst he had baked on bee poo on the roof that didn't budge.

Should i go up to 200ml

DS are the leader in the field now, with more to come.

For Carpro Lift, I'm assuming you left it to soak for as long as possible? Just keep in mind that it's not really considered a touch-less soap, so agitation plays a role in its effectiveness, and the "baked on" aspect would not have helped the situation.

This is W's recommendation on Lift -

Dilute Lift with water (we recommend 1:10). You can use leaner ratios for a more flowing mixture or a richer ratio for a denser foam.

They don't allude to cleaning abilities with those mixes, but assuming that more soap means more foam and therefore more grunt.

By chance, do you know the hardness of your water? That can play around with the cleaning abilities as well.
 
DS are the leader in the field now, with more to come.

For Carpro Lift, I'm assuming you left it to soak for as long as possible? Just keep in mind that it's not really considered a touch-less soap, so agitation plays a role in its effectiveness, and the "baked on" aspect would not have helped the situation.

This is W's recommendation on Lift -

Dilute Lift with water (we recommend 1:10). You can use leaner ratios for a more flowing mixture or a richer ratio for a denser foam.

They don't allude to cleaning abilities with those mixes, but assuming that more soap means more foam and therefore more grunt.

By chance, do you know the hardness of your water? That can play around with the cleaning abilities as well.

Rain water from the tank through a fillter but don't know the hardness to be honest but talking to my brother he did say he hasn't made a contact wash for some time and he goes to the car wash place WHICH i tell him not too so i'm guessing he missed the roof.

Compared to my other show foams i thought this would have more bite
 
IMO a RW would be ok as it's not a strong detergent

Now Deyon, how awesome is Darkside

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IMO a RW would be ok as it's not a strong detergent

Now Deyon, how awesome is Darkside

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

The car got rained on while I was driving it back from the dealer this afternoon, was very entertaining watching the water race across the bonnet. When I got home, I rinsed the car and then blew it down with the EGO. I will give it a rinse-less tomorrow before swapping it back for the XR6.

My service loan car for today was the all-new Ranger...........







 
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