DFB's Garage
- Thread starter DFB
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Coatingsarecrack
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- Dec 9, 2018
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DFB
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- #823
Those seats are very generic and are sold under a number of different brands. Mine was from "Economax" and didn't come with a padded seat. When Maxshine did their version, they offered an accessory padded seat insert, which I took a gamble on fitting mine....................
Transformed the comfort of the thing but would shift as I moved/scooted from wheel to wheel. (And no, I don't have a fat a.s). Minor annoyance, but last week I added some heavy duty doubled sided Velcro to the outer edges of the seats, which worked a treat in keeping the padded insert attached.
The Maxshine one?
They also sell a tray as a separate piece...............
It just looks cheap and nasty to me.
DFB
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- #824
Yes, capped when not in use.
On my last machine, I always left the gun and want attached, which is effectively the same thing save for the small orifice in the nozzle. Had no issues with doing that, and I would expect as soon as the machine is fired up, any potential mildew would be blasted out in short order.
And.......................I just like the look of it. I'm very shallow. :laughing:
DFB
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- #825
VC Mustang update...............parts have arrived, which I have started tinkering with.
First, the replacement fuel cap.
To be honest, I'm not exactly sure how these work, but the clear plastic "dagger" is supposed to indicate fuel tank level. This piece snapped off many years ago, at one point it was floating around in the tank. I thought it might have still been in there, but no dice. A small detail, but one of those little things that made a Victa a Victa.
Next, a brand-new Muffler.
Victa VC160 Muffler, Clips & Gasket | Push Mower Repair
This is probably not needed, but with what I managed to scrape out of the original, I wanted to start fresh. I ordered the kit form, which includes a reproduction muffler, two clips and a gasket. The original gasket did absolutely need replacing.
I have refitted these mufflers a couple of times, and they are always an absolute pig to get right. The bottom clip especially due to a lack of clearance. The clips themselves attach to the ribs on the cylinder head, the clip is then levered to latch onto the muffler. I have since read up on an easier method, where you fit the bottom clip first and then use leverage to attach the top clip. Next time.
Next, the spark plug boot, the original was perished and cracked.
https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/product/victa-spark-plug-boot/
This item is not OE, rather a generic part. In my case, I cut the end off the plug lead to remove the original ring connector. The kit is supplied with a small Philips head screw, which is driven into the end of the lead. The screw then helps clip to the spark plug. A choice of plugs is given, but I stuck with the classic Champion CJ8.
She fired on the first pull after that, then promptly popped the muffler off. Bugger, try again DFB. :doh And if you think a Victa 2-stroke is loud, then you should hear one without a muffler! :lol
Included in my order was length of the correct fuel line and a replacement fuel tap, which was only just starting to weep. I decided to replace the fuel inlet, breather line and decompressor line.
https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/product/victa-fuel-line/
https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/product/victa-fuel-tap/
Next, I want to work on those dodgy looking electrical wires coming out of the carburetor, which are the cut-out wires. I'm pretty sure they are the work of my grandfather, most likely a repair with whatever he had on hand. The replacement decals have also arrived, and I'm also looking to repaint the flywheel cover and sort the rust on those cylinder head "spikes".
First, the replacement fuel cap.
To be honest, I'm not exactly sure how these work, but the clear plastic "dagger" is supposed to indicate fuel tank level. This piece snapped off many years ago, at one point it was floating around in the tank. I thought it might have still been in there, but no dice. A small detail, but one of those little things that made a Victa a Victa.
Next, a brand-new Muffler.
Victa VC160 Muffler, Clips & Gasket | Push Mower Repair
This is probably not needed, but with what I managed to scrape out of the original, I wanted to start fresh. I ordered the kit form, which includes a reproduction muffler, two clips and a gasket. The original gasket did absolutely need replacing.
I have refitted these mufflers a couple of times, and they are always an absolute pig to get right. The bottom clip especially due to a lack of clearance. The clips themselves attach to the ribs on the cylinder head, the clip is then levered to latch onto the muffler. I have since read up on an easier method, where you fit the bottom clip first and then use leverage to attach the top clip. Next time.
Next, the spark plug boot, the original was perished and cracked.
https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/product/victa-spark-plug-boot/
This item is not OE, rather a generic part. In my case, I cut the end off the plug lead to remove the original ring connector. The kit is supplied with a small Philips head screw, which is driven into the end of the lead. The screw then helps clip to the spark plug. A choice of plugs is given, but I stuck with the classic Champion CJ8.
She fired on the first pull after that, then promptly popped the muffler off. Bugger, try again DFB. :doh And if you think a Victa 2-stroke is loud, then you should hear one without a muffler! :lol
Included in my order was length of the correct fuel line and a replacement fuel tap, which was only just starting to weep. I decided to replace the fuel inlet, breather line and decompressor line.
https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/product/victa-fuel-line/
https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/product/victa-fuel-tap/
Next, I want to work on those dodgy looking electrical wires coming out of the carburetor, which are the cut-out wires. I'm pretty sure they are the work of my grandfather, most likely a repair with whatever he had on hand. The replacement decals have also arrived, and I'm also looking to repaint the flywheel cover and sort the rust on those cylinder head "spikes".
DanaDetailingPros
Active member
- Aug 7, 2022
- 1,335
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Funny and ironic timing regarding seats. I just went through the whole dilemma. I have a bad back and I'm always trying to limit bending all day. The blue one is really nice and sturdy. it's a Generic VEVOR Dewalt copy, and I just painted it. It however seemed to high for cars. Great for trucks but I then turned around looking for the most comfortable lowest one available for under $80 and I found the same one Adam's sells for 1/2 the price by VEVOR on eBay.View attachment 76842View attachment 76843
Big Dave
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- Jan 7, 2018
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Years ago my Grandmother had a lawnmower that was a real ####### to start, and I'd finally got it started this day I was mowing her lawn, but it was cutting in and out, I noticed the spark plug boot wasn't on securely, so I just reach down and push it back on, it had a hole in it I didn't know about. Strangely, it didn't hurt, but my arm shot straight up above my head, and I didn't put it there.
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opie2
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- Mar 6, 2021
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I have this one. It works, but those bigger cup holder suck. Always chanking it off my legs. I took one side off. Thought about cutting off one of the cups holders on the other side too.
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MisterSnoop
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- Sep 15, 2020
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I've got the Griot's with the removable mini creeper if I need to get lower. One thing I haven't loved is how much overhang it has. If you lean too much to one side, the other side of the mini creeper will pop off and you fall on the floor. It really needs some kind of lock.
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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- #830
The sun was shining, so it was the perfect opportunity for a Miami Monday. It's been a very long time since I have driven the XR8, so I was looking forward to this..............
Except, I had a very sad battery to contend with. Despite being hooked up to a tender, it just wouldn't crank over. At all! Thankfully, I managed to jump it using my battery pack. One of the best purchases I have ever made, it's come to the rescue countless times now, both at home and at work.
I hate dealing with batteries, so I have a drive-in, drive-out place I take my cars to for this. The battery instantly failed the load test. I am not at all surprised, this is the original Ford factory battery, so nearingnine years old now. I think I did well out of it.
The guy was quite careful with the car and was thankful to be working on such a clean car. See, they notice.
When he brought the new battery out and I spotted the label, I made the remark about having a GM battery in a Ford...............
I was joking, of course. Having read our Franko positively remark about AC Delco batteries, and having been told how good these are this morning, I really don't mind at all. For $200 cash in and out, I don't mind one bit.
On my way out, both guys in the shop congratulated me on the car and that I should be proud of it. And I am, immensely proud of it. As always, it was turning head this morning.
That original battery had been dying a slow death for a while now, it getting slower and slower to crank over. The starter on these Miami V8's has a very distinctive sound, the long cranking time is to build up oil pressure before firing. So it's nice to having it cranking over hard again, harder than a teenage boy.
Except, I had a very sad battery to contend with. Despite being hooked up to a tender, it just wouldn't crank over. At all! Thankfully, I managed to jump it using my battery pack. One of the best purchases I have ever made, it's come to the rescue countless times now, both at home and at work.
I hate dealing with batteries, so I have a drive-in, drive-out place I take my cars to for this. The battery instantly failed the load test. I am not at all surprised, this is the original Ford factory battery, so nearingnine years old now. I think I did well out of it.
The guy was quite careful with the car and was thankful to be working on such a clean car. See, they notice.
When he brought the new battery out and I spotted the label, I made the remark about having a GM battery in a Ford...............
I was joking, of course. Having read our Franko positively remark about AC Delco batteries, and having been told how good these are this morning, I really don't mind at all. For $200 cash in and out, I don't mind one bit.
On my way out, both guys in the shop congratulated me on the car and that I should be proud of it. And I am, immensely proud of it. As always, it was turning head this morning.
That original battery had been dying a slow death for a while now, it getting slower and slower to crank over. The starter on these Miami V8's has a very distinctive sound, the long cranking time is to build up oil pressure before firing. So it's nice to having it cranking over hard again, harder than a teenage boy.
DFB
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- #831
With the XR8 sorted, and having enjoyed some seat time in it, it was onto the Wildtrak for its monthly detail.
This is the first ceramic coating I have had to deal with in terms of maintenance, so it's been an interesting learning experience. Five months in, Can Coat is holding up well, although the lowers have lost some of the hydrophobic properties that this coating is renowned for.
To remedy this, I decided to do a pre-wash soak with Carpro Lift. This is what Lift was designed for, unclogging and restoring ceramic coatings. Normally, I just estimate the soap to water ratio in my foam cannon, but I made sure to measure this application to the correct 10:1 ratio. Lift is strong, I didn't want to negatively impact the coating.
Lift is ultra foamy, helping it to cling and hold to the paint, breaking down contaminates so that they can be easily rinsed away. Pleasingly, Lift is also super easy with the rinse off.
I have to say, Lift did a brilliant job here, restoring and reinvigorating the coating. I then followed with Carpro Reset to complete the washing process.
After a blow down, it was then onto a topper to further extend the coating. KCx S0.02 is such a joy to use, so easy to apply and delivers a glossy, slick finish. This stuff verges on $100 for a 500ml bottle, but its ultra efficient in how much you use and how quick it is to apply to the paint, glass and plastic trim. You probably wouldn't use this as a regular drying aid, but as an occasional topper, it's hard to beat.
After the interior was vacuumed and the leather cleaned with Leather Love, it was time for the general wipe over, this time using Merch Interior Detailer.
I really like this product, it doesn't leave much behind, delivering a factory finish without streaking or looking overdone.
The interior glass was then cleaned with Gyeon's glass cleaner, the rubber mats topped with some KCx GUF and the carpets spritzed with a little Chemical Guys New Car Scent.................don't flame me, it's the only remaining CG product I felt was worth keeping. Tyres were then dressed with the brilliant Adam's Graphene Tire Dressing.
This vehicle has just clicked over 45,000 km (28,000 miles)........................and is getting a new engine soon. When it was serviced a couple of weeks ago, the dealer carried out a field service campaign regarding oil pump failure that is current for models fitted with the 2.0 Bi-Turbo diesel engine. The oil pressure was tested above spec and the oil had metal shavings in it.
As a result, Ford are replacing the entire engine. The engine is otherwise running fine, with no additional noise or smoke. It's good Ford are stepping up and being proactive here, but I do hope this failure is limited to a certain batch of oil pumps, I would hate to be replacing engines ever 45,000 km.
While this is not my car, I'm annoyed none the less. This vehicle replaced an early PX Ranger, which blew a transmission at 60,000 km (37,000 miles) and needed three rear main seals. Now this PX III needs an engine. I just wish Ford would stop nickel and diming and just build cars to what they need to be. Especially considering the price they ask for them now.
This is the first ceramic coating I have had to deal with in terms of maintenance, so it's been an interesting learning experience. Five months in, Can Coat is holding up well, although the lowers have lost some of the hydrophobic properties that this coating is renowned for.
To remedy this, I decided to do a pre-wash soak with Carpro Lift. This is what Lift was designed for, unclogging and restoring ceramic coatings. Normally, I just estimate the soap to water ratio in my foam cannon, but I made sure to measure this application to the correct 10:1 ratio. Lift is strong, I didn't want to negatively impact the coating.
Lift is ultra foamy, helping it to cling and hold to the paint, breaking down contaminates so that they can be easily rinsed away. Pleasingly, Lift is also super easy with the rinse off.
I have to say, Lift did a brilliant job here, restoring and reinvigorating the coating. I then followed with Carpro Reset to complete the washing process.
After a blow down, it was then onto a topper to further extend the coating. KCx S0.02 is such a joy to use, so easy to apply and delivers a glossy, slick finish. This stuff verges on $100 for a 500ml bottle, but its ultra efficient in how much you use and how quick it is to apply to the paint, glass and plastic trim. You probably wouldn't use this as a regular drying aid, but as an occasional topper, it's hard to beat.
After the interior was vacuumed and the leather cleaned with Leather Love, it was time for the general wipe over, this time using Merch Interior Detailer.
I really like this product, it doesn't leave much behind, delivering a factory finish without streaking or looking overdone.
The interior glass was then cleaned with Gyeon's glass cleaner, the rubber mats topped with some KCx GUF and the carpets spritzed with a little Chemical Guys New Car Scent.................don't flame me, it's the only remaining CG product I felt was worth keeping. Tyres were then dressed with the brilliant Adam's Graphene Tire Dressing.
This vehicle has just clicked over 45,000 km (28,000 miles)........................and is getting a new engine soon. When it was serviced a couple of weeks ago, the dealer carried out a field service campaign regarding oil pump failure that is current for models fitted with the 2.0 Bi-Turbo diesel engine. The oil pressure was tested above spec and the oil had metal shavings in it.
As a result, Ford are replacing the entire engine. The engine is otherwise running fine, with no additional noise or smoke. It's good Ford are stepping up and being proactive here, but I do hope this failure is limited to a certain batch of oil pumps, I would hate to be replacing engines ever 45,000 km.
While this is not my car, I'm annoyed none the less. This vehicle replaced an early PX Ranger, which blew a transmission at 60,000 km (37,000 miles) and needed three rear main seals. Now this PX III needs an engine. I just wish Ford would stop nickel and diming and just build cars to what they need to be. Especially considering the price they ask for them now.
Big Dave
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- Jan 7, 2018
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I saw a video on YT the other day where one of the guys from CarExpert had to have the diff in his Ranger Raptor replaced under warranty, it may not have been filled correctly from the factory apparently. All covered including a loan car. A lot of comments on the video said it was only getting replaced because he has a lot of followers on YT. But maybe, just maybe, Ford Australia has finally understood, if you don't make the most reliable vehicles around, then you better have reliable after sales service. Fix the issues, and don't make it difficult. This will get you return sales.
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DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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- #833
Fairly sure you are referring to Paul Maric and his Raptor. That guy is a sensationalist, if I was Ford, I'd be ultra careful too.
In fairness to Ford, they have been pretty good in dealing with issues in recent years, and I'm told from someone within Ford that their customer survey results have improved markedly. No car or car company is perfectly reliable, so I guess it all comes down to how they deal with issues. That in itself is difficult because it varies from dealer to dealer.
DFB
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- #834
Of course, you knew this was going to happen..................I drive it, I clean it and then put it away.
Because I'm using every excuse to use my new pressure washer, I cleaned the wheels and tyres as usual using Brake Buster. I then moved inside and did an Absolute and Bead Maker rinse-less wash. Tyre re-dressed with OG Tire.
Similar process on the Ranger, swapping Brake Buster for Mirch Grime Off.
In this case, I used Grime Off for the wheels and tyres, and I think I prefer this to their dedicated tyre cleaner.
I then did a rinse-less wash using Opti-Coat No Rinse with KCx Quick Shine, dressed the tyres with DIY Detail Tire and interior wiped down with P&S Swift.
I have to say, I'm enjoying this concept of a two-day weekend. It's making me more relaxed to enjoy what I'm doing rather than rushing to fit it all in on one day.
Because I'm using every excuse to use my new pressure washer, I cleaned the wheels and tyres as usual using Brake Buster. I then moved inside and did an Absolute and Bead Maker rinse-less wash. Tyre re-dressed with OG Tire.
Similar process on the Ranger, swapping Brake Buster for Mirch Grime Off.
In this case, I used Grime Off for the wheels and tyres, and I think I prefer this to their dedicated tyre cleaner.
I then did a rinse-less wash using Opti-Coat No Rinse with KCx Quick Shine, dressed the tyres with DIY Detail Tire and interior wiped down with P&S Swift.
I have to say, I'm enjoying this concept of a two-day weekend. It's making me more relaxed to enjoy what I'm doing rather than rushing to fit it all in on one day.
opie2
Well-known member
- Mar 6, 2021
- 2,667
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Ac delco batteries are good. I got nine years out of the last one in my truck, and thats with very low miles, sits more than anything. I would guess you to have the same luck.
We have been running them in all oir vehicles for a while now.
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
We have been running them in all oir vehicles for a while now.
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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- #838
OMG! It's finally finished! Im the MAN
This is not a post to show you a picture of a power point. No no no..........This represents the final piece of the puzzle, a fully wall mounted pressure washer, ready to go at any moment I choose.
Please excuse my terrible video skills, I'm hoping to improve over time.
My new electrician did a fantastic job and I'm pleased he could see the value of the whole setup, rather than it being just another job. He is also going to help me improved the lighting in the garage and has already sent me some suggestions. I have no idea where to start with this, it's not something I have ever really had to consider before. No doubt many, many hours of research will follow..............the hunt continues!
This is not a post to show you a picture of a power point. No no no..........This represents the final piece of the puzzle, a fully wall mounted pressure washer, ready to go at any moment I choose.
Please excuse my terrible video skills, I'm hoping to improve over time.
My new electrician did a fantastic job and I'm pleased he could see the value of the whole setup, rather than it being just another job. He is also going to help me improved the lighting in the garage and has already sent me some suggestions. I have no idea where to start with this, it's not something I have ever really had to consider before. No doubt many, many hours of research will follow..............the hunt continues!
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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- #839
Tinker day! 
The original handle locks on the Rover were cracked and not providing sufficient torque.
I didn't find any locally, so I went with some generic cam locks that were also used by Rover. However, due to the orientation of the handlebars on this model, I had to mount them backwards.
These universal items were not doing it for me, they looked goofy and didn't function as well as I expected, so I tracked down a set of OEM Rover knobs.
Handlebars and Catcher - Push Mowers - ROV00040 Spares and Parts for Rover Easystart Extra (Petrol Mower - Pushed) - Power Tool Spares
At this point, I want to have a rant about Rover not stocking parts in Australia anymore. This is such a shame and representative of an American parent company (MTD) who has no interest in the brand other than making sure they are not competing with their own brands. This is so disappointing as otherwise serviceable machines are sidelined because there is no parts support anymore. Not everyone is going to take the time and expense to track down OE parts located on the other side of the world. (Sorry to my American readers, but it's something that has happened countless times to once Aussie owned companies that are bought by huge overseas companies and then ran into the ground....................no one wins out of that sort of thing.)
Anyway, the correct part is A03285 and listed simply as "Knob" on the parts breakdown. This does not even include the required bolt, nut and washer. I decided to source replacements from a local fastener company as the original bolt had warped, which likely caused the split on the original parts.
A quick replacement that has this part of the mower functioning correctly.
Next, the catcher. The original mesh screen had been damaged, allowing clippings to fly out the vents. Interesting to note that the Pro-Cut Rover catchers have steel mesh rather than plastic for durability.
I'm sure I could track down a secondhand catcher, but it would likely be the same. In the spirit of my grandfather, I decided to get creative...............
https://www.bunnings.com.au/jack-180mm-x-8m-super-gutter-guard_p3040589
There are a few different mesh sizes of this stuff, I went with the sturdier and tighter weave to better match the original. Also, how Bunning's get away selling the Saxon stuff is beyond me, it couldn't be any flimsier if they tried and I have to wonder if it would actually function for the intended purpose because I reckon a single gum nut would crush that stuff. But it's cheap, right?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/saxon-180mm-x-8-0m-black-plastic-gutter-guard_p3041095
Anyway, I cut two identical lengths and then attached them together using cable ties, overlapping to get the correct depth.
I then secured it to the original mesh with more cable ties.
Not my usual way of repairing things, but a quick mow of the front lawns revealed I had fixed the problem. Win! Now I have the better part of 8 meters of gutter guard I have no use for. :laughing:
The original handle locks on the Rover were cracked and not providing sufficient torque.
I didn't find any locally, so I went with some generic cam locks that were also used by Rover. However, due to the orientation of the handlebars on this model, I had to mount them backwards.
These universal items were not doing it for me, they looked goofy and didn't function as well as I expected, so I tracked down a set of OEM Rover knobs.
Handlebars and Catcher - Push Mowers - ROV00040 Spares and Parts for Rover Easystart Extra (Petrol Mower - Pushed) - Power Tool Spares
At this point, I want to have a rant about Rover not stocking parts in Australia anymore. This is such a shame and representative of an American parent company (MTD) who has no interest in the brand other than making sure they are not competing with their own brands. This is so disappointing as otherwise serviceable machines are sidelined because there is no parts support anymore. Not everyone is going to take the time and expense to track down OE parts located on the other side of the world. (Sorry to my American readers, but it's something that has happened countless times to once Aussie owned companies that are bought by huge overseas companies and then ran into the ground....................no one wins out of that sort of thing.)
Anyway, the correct part is A03285 and listed simply as "Knob" on the parts breakdown. This does not even include the required bolt, nut and washer. I decided to source replacements from a local fastener company as the original bolt had warped, which likely caused the split on the original parts.
A quick replacement that has this part of the mower functioning correctly.
Next, the catcher. The original mesh screen had been damaged, allowing clippings to fly out the vents. Interesting to note that the Pro-Cut Rover catchers have steel mesh rather than plastic for durability.
I'm sure I could track down a secondhand catcher, but it would likely be the same. In the spirit of my grandfather, I decided to get creative...............
https://www.bunnings.com.au/jack-180mm-x-8m-super-gutter-guard_p3040589
There are a few different mesh sizes of this stuff, I went with the sturdier and tighter weave to better match the original. Also, how Bunning's get away selling the Saxon stuff is beyond me, it couldn't be any flimsier if they tried and I have to wonder if it would actually function for the intended purpose because I reckon a single gum nut would crush that stuff. But it's cheap, right?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/saxon-180mm-x-8-0m-black-plastic-gutter-guard_p3041095
Anyway, I cut two identical lengths and then attached them together using cable ties, overlapping to get the correct depth.
I then secured it to the original mesh with more cable ties.
Not my usual way of repairing things, but a quick mow of the front lawns revealed I had fixed the problem. Win! Now I have the better part of 8 meters of gutter guard I have no use for. :laughing:
DFB
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- Aug 12, 2019
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- #840
Today's detail was on my Ranger, with the goal of doing an extra couple of things.
The wheels were given a deep clean using KCx Magic Wheel Cleaner. As expected, very little iron reaction occurred.
If I had the choice between Magic Wheel Cleaner and NV Purge, I would show a preference to Purge. MWC is a good product and the thicker consistency helps it stick to the surface of the wheel, but the odor is considerably worse than Purge. That's not to say Purge is pleasant smelling, but NV do a better job with disguising that typical iron remover stink.
And when you consider 500ml of MWC is $22 more expensive than Purge, the choice should be an easy one. Some KCx products justify their price premium, GSF and PSS for example, some are don't.
I also wanted to apply some NV Jet, which I haven't used for a while now.
For whatever reason, I don't remember Jet being this hard to apply. Today, it seemed very grabby to wipe on and buff off. Either my bottle has aged or the newer products I've been using have evolved to be user friendly.
The wheels were given a deep clean using KCx Magic Wheel Cleaner. As expected, very little iron reaction occurred.
If I had the choice between Magic Wheel Cleaner and NV Purge, I would show a preference to Purge. MWC is a good product and the thicker consistency helps it stick to the surface of the wheel, but the odor is considerably worse than Purge. That's not to say Purge is pleasant smelling, but NV do a better job with disguising that typical iron remover stink.
And when you consider 500ml of MWC is $22 more expensive than Purge, the choice should be an easy one. Some KCx products justify their price premium, GSF and PSS for example, some are don't.
I also wanted to apply some NV Jet, which I haven't used for a while now.
For whatever reason, I don't remember Jet being this hard to apply. Today, it seemed very grabby to wipe on and buff off. Either my bottle has aged or the newer products I've been using have evolved to be user friendly.