DFB's Garage

[chilly]

Oooh, you're gonna like them. Knipex makes really good stuff, I recommend it to techs here all the time. Knipex are the sidecutters I use on my snap-on sidecutters when I want to get them warrantied. :laughing: (but seriously though - 250mm straight side cutters will clip the tip off the snap on one with nary a nick on the Knipex).

Knipex Link I've had a pair of these since I started wrenching in 01. Would recommend. :xyxthumbs:

Also highly recommend the Cobra or Alligator pliers (depending on your preference for a locking slide mechanism or a free sliding) if you do much Adjustable Pliers work. The teeth are cut like that of pipe wrenches so they dig in to what you're reefing on - I've had frozen tie rods where you squeeze both handles until the teeth dig in, then you could just push on the back of it they bit so hard.

And last one is just a PSA for anyone that does any kind of mechanical work - get yourself a flush cutter (I think I have this one at the moment - Knipex Link ) for trimming zip ties perfectly flush - no more sharpened tips to render blood (Personal pet peeve as a mechanic).

They aren’t easy to find but flat cut toenail clippers are great for tie wraps as well

I use them on bicycles all the time

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[DFB]

Did you buy the Comfort Grips cause you like them or you thought it was a upgrade since it said comfort

I hated my Comfort Grips....eventually sold most of them (still have a few floating) and all my Knipex is just regular dipped.
They are way too bulky and are not ergonomic at all. YMMV though

Well, blue and red are my colors, so it was a natural choice really. Yes, I'm that shallow.

 

[chefwong]

Fashion vs Function eh....

I don't wanna talk you out of them but if you have the opportunity to order like item in regular handle and compare and contrast, you might find the latter finitely far superior is use.
I did say it's subjective but the Comfort handles are nothing close to comfort...Just trying to save you from some Buyers remorse

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

Fashion vs Function eh....

I don't wanna talk you out of them but if you have the opportunity to order like item in regular handle and compare and contrast, you might find the latter finitely far superior is use.
I did say it's subjective but the Comfort handles are nothing close to comfort...Just trying to save you from some Buyers remorse

Maybe they’ll be comfortable for his hands? Tools not gonna fit every hand the same…


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[DFB]

Wildtrak Seat Trim Replacement

Some time ago, the drivers side seat base trim valance on the Wildtrak broke. From memory, the XLT that this car replaced also did the same, so I’m pretty sure this is a common failure part.





From what I can tell, the way the trim is shaped and attached to the seat has it subjected to substantial pressure as the driver enters and exits the vehicle. Repeated cycles of compression and release sees the plastic fatiguing over time, which then leads to it cracking.

Could I have made a warranty claim on this failure? Perhaps, but unlikely. Apart from the fact that its just outside of warranty now, Ford would likely claim it as wear and tear, which is fair enough. As such, I decided to order the part from Bayford and do the job myself.

There are a few different versions of this part, all dependent on trim and model spec, and of course driver or passenger orientation. For example, the same part in my Ranger would not have cut-outs for power seat adjustment but would have a mechanical backrest lever. There are also two versions for the 8-way powered Wildtrak, with or without seat heating. This particular Wildtrak is not equipped with seat heaters. At this point, I would list the part number and provide the link, but more on that in later.

First, I removed the two electric seat adjustment levers with my fancy skin wedge tool. There is also a singular Phillips head screw on the rear of the seat. The trim is then "massaged" from the locator tabs.



Next, remove the two screws holding the switch module to the trim, you then need to release it from the tabs.





For the new trim, refit the switch module, then wrangle the trim into place to align and then snap into the three locator tabs, replace the rear screw. The adjuster levers then snap back into place. But........................



Despite being a professional online shopper, for some reason I bought the wrong part. I think the new one is for an XLT and not the Wildtrak with its black rather than grey plastics. I've tried searching the part number for the old piece, but I can only find the grey version.

Does it matter? To me it does, to my father, not at all. I might try and track down the correct part, but I guess its not critical concern. I'm just chuffed I managed to do this myself.

Whilst I had the car, I also gave it the monthly wash. This was my second use of the XL version of the Detail Factory tyre brush.





While the XL version doesn't have the same joyous flex to the bristles when compared to the original, it's still a very nice user experience and makes short work of these large tyres.

The pre-wash on this car was Bilt Hamber Touchless, used neat in the foam cannon. My earliest attempts using this soap were unsuccessful due to the flow of my Kranzle KHD-10 diluting it too much. So, I use it straight/un-diluted in the foam cannon canister.

Following the pre-wash, which removed all of the bugs and general road grime, I decided to use Koch Chemie Nano-Magic Shampoo, basically a fancy wash-n-wax. Normally, a soap like this would not have enough cleaning ability to deal with this car, but because of what Touchless can do, I decided to give it a try.

Nano-Magic was not designed for foam cannons, it really doesn't foam, but I did anyway to at least get it onto the paint like I normally would. It's also strangely lacking in lubrication compared to a pure soap.



The car was then dried with the excellent Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer, tyres dressed with 1:1 Perl, the interior wiped down with Griot's Interior Cleaner, leather given a once over with ONR.

I also got the XR6 out for a drive, taking the loooong way to the Big-Green-Shed. This gave me a chance to really lean on those new brakes, which now gives me confidence to drive the car hard. That same low speed smoothness that I was impressed with initially translates to performance driving as well. I did get them to fad a little bit in the end, but they don't start shuddering after two heavy applications like the stock setup would. The Project MU pads do produce more dust than the OE Ford pads, but not terrible like Brembo pads do. I'd still love to put Brembo's on this car, but overall, I'm happy with how the changes have translated.

 

[DFB]

My second set of Knipex arrived today, this time the 38 25 200 -

https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/produc...7c0be1b9c95&pd_rd_r=3XX7AGM57VZPA596KAMD&th=1

 

[chefwong]

Was the replacement trim a good color match . Here's hoping for us car n3rds who have a eye for these sorta things, it was.

I've replaced sill rockers that crack and I've never had any good in all my years with them.....the color is never the -exact same- like the original with the car.

 

[Azure]

Wildtrak Seat Trim Replacement

Some time ago, the drivers side seat base trim valance on the Wildtrak broke. From memory, the XLT that this car replaced also did the same, so I’m pretty sure this is a common failure part.

My 06 GMC Envoy had a seat sidepanel with controls similar to this that failed. I decided not to bother replacing (or even fixing) the controls and panel. In my case, it was the actual seat wear that caused the failure. The seat bottom bolters lost their "bolster" and this caused weight from the driver to stress the panel. I'd need new seats (or a reupholster) along with the control and panel repairs to successfully fix the problem. That was waaayyyy more $$$ than repairing the broken controls. This was upsetting to me since there was a super high number of these vehicles manufactured and that usually makes the repair costs a bit lower.

Your butt bolsters still look robust lol, so your repairs should last.

 

[DFB]

Was the replacement trim a good color match . Here's hoping for us car n3rds who have a eye for these sorta things, it was.

I've replaced sill rockers that crack and I've never had any good in all my years with them.....the color is never the -exact same- like the original with the car.

The color match is way off, the switch colour should match the valance. It bothers me, but not Dad.



I have since reached out to my local Ford dealer and they have come back with the correct part..............I think, none of the part numbers match up. These are only $47 parts, so I'll order one and have it replaced again.

 

[DFB]

My new Rupes turned up today!































The first thing you notice is how light the unit is, with or without the battery. It's also butter smooth, lacking the clattery wind down of my ShineMate's.

More detail here -
https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...-rupes-hlr-battery-polishers.html#post1790286

 

[Tasmania]

Have a look at bojo trim tools from Ultracut Australia.

 

[DFB]

Wildtrak Seat Trim Replacement

Some time ago, the drivers side seat base trim valance on the Wildtrak broke. From memory, the XLT that this car replaced also did the same, so I’m pretty sure this is a common failure part.





From what I can tell, the way the trim is shaped and attached to the seat has it subjected to substantial pressure as the driver enters and exits the vehicle. Repeated cycles of compression and release sees the plastic fatiguing over time, which then leads to it cracking.

Could I have made a warranty claim on this failure? Perhaps, but unlikely. Apart from the fact that its just outside of warranty now, Ford would likely claim it as wear and tear, which is fair enough. As such, I decided to order the part from Bayford and do the job myself.

There are a few different versions of this part, all dependent on trim and model spec, and of course driver or passenger orientation. For example, the same part in my Ranger would not have cut-outs for power seat adjustment but would have a mechanical backrest lever. There are also two versions for the 8-way powered Wildtrak, with or without seat heating. This particular Wildtrak is not equipped with seat heaters. At this point, I would list the part number and provide the link, but more on that in later.

First, I removed the two electric seat adjustment levers with my fancy skin wedge tool. There is also a singular Phillips head screw on the rear of the seat. The trim is then "massaged" from the locator tabs.



Next, remove the two screws holding the switch module to the trim, you then need to release it from the tabs.





For the new trim, refit the switch module, then wrangle the trim into place to align and then snap into the three locator tabs, replace the rear screw. The adjuster levers then snap back into place. But........................



Despite being a professional online shopper, for some reason I bought the wrong part. I think the new one is for an XLT and not the Wildtrak with its black rather than grey plastics. I've tried searching the part number for the old piece, but I can only find the grey version.

Does it matter? To me it does, to my father, not at all. I might try and track down the correct part, but I guess its not critical concern. I'm just chuffed I managed to do this myself.

Well, it got the better of me!





I had the local Ford dealer find the correct part, which was ordered late yesterday and was at the parts department by 9am this morning. Can't beat that for turnaround, not to mention not paying for shipping.

 

[DFB]

Have a look at bojo trim tools from Ultracut Australia.

Those look very enticing, almost too many to chose from so I'm not sure where to start.

I have my eye on the new Detail Factory Pick Set, they haven't arrived in Australia yet though.

 

[DFB]

I feel so much better now.....................

Black -



River Rock Silver, not the contrast to the black switch levers -



And what I would have preferred to include in the original post, the part number. If you have a PX MK III Ranger Wildtrak WITH 8-way powered seat but WITHOUT seat heating, you want the following part in black and NOT River Rock silver -

EB3Z 17A861 FH



You would think that having done this before, removing the wrong part and putting the correct one on would have been easy. NO! :doh:

The incorrect part put up a fight and I broke one of the rear locator tabs, which is no matter because I have no use for it anyway. The new part went on pretty good but.....................then I realized I forgot to reattach the two screws that secure the adjustment module to the trim. Rookie!! :doh:

So, off the trim comes, screws reattached and then the fight started. :bash: I got the thing on again, but something didn't look right, and I somehow unhooked the front of base cushion from the seat frame. It was then I realized I hadn't slotted the front of the trim to the frame properly, so off it came again. I got everything lined up and clicked into place, I then had to fight that final screw to get it properly aligned.

What was going to be a 10-minute job turned into 45 minutes. :doh: A lot of that was moving the seat base and backrest up/down/backwards/forwards. It's at this point I have to wonder why powered seat bases are seen as a luxury, every movement takes far longer than a manual adjustment lever.

In any case, I don't mind, I think this is what they call a "learning experience".

 

[Tasmania]

I feel so much better now.....................

Black -



River Rock Silver, not the contrast to the black switch levers -



And what I would have preferred to include in the original post, the part number. If you have a PX MK III Ranger Wildtrak WITH 8-way powered seat but WITHOUT seat heating, you want the following part in black and NOT River Rock silver -

EB3Z 17A861 FH



You would think that having done this before, removing the wrong part and putting the correct one on would have been easy. NO! :doh:

The incorrect part put up a fight and I broke one of the rear locator tabs, which is no matter because I have no use for it anyway. The new part went on pretty good but.....................then I realized I forgot to reattach the two screws that secure the adjustment module to the trim. Rookie!! :doh:

So, off the trim comes, screws reattached and then the fight started. :bash: I got the thing on again, but something didn't look right, and I somehow unhooked the front of base cushion from the seat frame. It was then I realized I hadn't slotted the front of the trim to the frame properly, so off it came again. I got everything lined up and clicked into place, I then had to fight that final screw to get it properly aligned.

What was going to be a 10-minute job turned into 45 minutes. :doh: A lot of that was moving the seat base and backrest up/down/backwards/forwards. It's at this point I have to wonder why powered seat bases are seen as a luxury, every movement takes far longer than a manual adjustment lever.

In any case, I don't mind, I think this is what they call a "learning experience".

Just have to replace that worn weather strip next.....:wowwow:

 

[DFB]

Just have to replace that worn weather strip next.....:wowwow:

Yeah, that's from wear and tear in less than 60,000 km. The one on the rear door was also damaged when a department store loaded up a flat screen TV into the back seat with little to no care. Wasn't impressed with that one.

 

[chefwong]

Yeah, that's from wear and tear in less than 60,000 km. The one on the rear door was also damaged when a department store loaded up a flat screen TV into the back seat with little to no care. Wasn't impressed with that one.

I spotted that when zoomed in to see the color match of the replacement....
Those are not as easy as it looks - at least in the 1X I attempted it.
OCD kiddos rubbing the bottom on both rears. Decided to go all in and replace it all
It' just a rubber weatherstrip - 1 piece, with a metal flex channel-ish that -grips- the frame of the body.

Out of frustration, I ended up removing it and buying another brand new set and brought it my Indy to have him deal.
Upon pickup, he himself said it's a bit tricky to lay it down

Basically you lay the new weatherstrip roughly in the opening and you press it in.
The issue is if while it appears even and you press it in, slowly from one corner and going 360.....sometimes when you get close to the end, you have too much dang material that it won't press it flush, so you to to -readjust- the strip so more material is where you pressed in it. However, in my case, once you have pressed it it, to some degree some of the the metal channel doesn't sit at tight once agin once you remove and re-press it back into the frame.

Hopefully you will have better luck that I did with that

 

[SNP209]

I spotted that when zoomed in to see the color match of the replacement....
Those are not as easy as it looks - at least in the 1X I attempted it.
OCD kiddos rubbing the bottom on both rears. Decided to go all in and replace it all
It' just a rubber weatherstrip - 1 piece, with a metal flex channel-ish that -grips- the frame of the body.

Out of frustration, I ended up removing it and buying another brand new set and brought it my Indy to have him deal.
Upon pickup, he himself said it's a bit tricky to lay it down

Basically you lay the new weatherstrip roughly in the opening and you press it in.
The issue is if while it appears even and you press it in, slowly from one corner and going 360.....sometimes when you get close to the end, you have too much dang material that it won't press it flush, so you to to -readjust- the strip so more material is where you pressed in it. However, in my case, once you have pressed it it, to some degree some of the the metal channel doesn't sit at tight once agin once you remove and re-press it back into the frame.

Hopefully you will have better luck that I did with that

In an OEM environment those seals are installed with a pneumatic palm hammer.

Kinda like this:
Pneumatic Hammer for Trim | Palm Air Hammer | Trim-Lok

 

[chefwong]

In an OEM environment those seals are installed with a pneumatic palm hammer.

Kinda like this:
Pneumatic Hammer for Trim | Palm Air Hammer | Trim-Lok

Thx. Issue is not seating it.
Just setting the pre-formed weather ship evenly and pressing it in so it sits evenly was my issue.
What appears trivial on procedure was not quite what I expected.....along with buying a whole new 2nd set of weatherstrips + subbing it to a Indy

 

[Tasmania]

Yeah, that's from wear and tear in less than 60,000 km. The one on the rear door was also damaged when a department store loaded up a flat screen TV into the back seat with little to no care. Wasn't impressed with that one.

Yeah I've had some bozo Harvey Norman stuff do that but to the vinyl floor in mum's Amarok....No respect but they will sell you a TV