Paint gauges.

Kenny94

Kenny94

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Hello folks, I just purchased a NexPTG , professional… The other one I used to use is a.VVV-Group. It seems that there’s a big spread between both of them on the same vehicle at the same time and both recalibrated at the same time. The vehicle is a 2025 Toyota RAV4 . It just seems odd that there’s that big a difference. How do y’all feel about that? Please see attached the two pictures.

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Are you using the same calibration foils for both instruments?

EDIT: Also, what is the thickness of the calibration foil(s) you are using?

EDIT EDIT: You can probably resize your pictures to allow for an upload.
 
I just resized the pictures.
 

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I’m not very knowledgeable when it comes to paint gauges but the answer your question I just calibrated it what comes with Each unit…….
 
You want to select a calibration foil that's as close to the range you are measuring. I would try recalibrating with just one set of foils, and see if that helps any. What substrate are you using for the calibration? Are you using discrete substrates, also? The thickness of the calibration substrate may factor into this as well.

If you use the same foil and same subtrate to calibrate both instruments, and then you still are getting different readings on the vehicle, then it's going to be hard to decide which one is right, or if using different calibration sets results in different readings, which set you should use.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
You want to select a calibration foil that's as close to the range you are measuring. I would try recalibrating with just one set of foils, and see if that helps any. What substrate are you using for the calibration? Are you using discrete substrates, also? The thickness of the calibration substrate may factor into this as well.

If you use the same foil and same subtrate to calibrate both instruments, and then you still are getting different readings on the vehicle, then it's going to be hard to decide which one is right, or if using different calibration sets results in different readings, which set you should use.
Click to expand...

You can’t use the same substrate to calibrate both gauges. They make them different in a way that the fancy one is incompatible with the cheaper ones as a way to keep up the smoke & mirrors and prevent consumers from finding out that they’re ripping them off.
 
I don’t understand those measurements… I speak mills.
 
The problem with a paint gauge is that they can't tell you where the clear coat ends and the paint begins, therefore making them useless for detailers (imo).
Great for used car dealers to see if a car is filled with bondo though
 
Eldorado2k said:
I don’t understand those measurements… I speak mills.
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84 microns is 3.3 mils. 130 microns is 5.1 mils.

it wouldn't be unreasonable to have differences like that if a portion of the car was repainted. is this the difference in the same location?
 
Flash Gordon said:
The problem with a paint gauge is that they can't tell you where the clear coat ends and the paint begins, therefore making them useless for detailers (imo).
Great for used car dealers to see if a car is filled with bondo though
Click to expand...

Sort of reminds me of the whole leather conditioner debate… “are you just slathering it on top of the impenetrable coating? Or is it actually beneficial to the leather seat”?

And others say to wait like 5yrs before you start using leather conditioner.. But what if using leather conditioner would’ve protected the factory finish from day 1 instead of leaving it unprotected?

Similar to using a plastic trim restorer. Do you really want to wait till your exterior trim starts to fade before you use it? Or maybe it would’ve been wiser to have used it to protect the factory finish from the start. Same thing with paint protection, but not the leather seats?

Btw I’ve never had a problem with leather conditioners. And I also did a test that spanned 3-4 months proving they don’t attract dust whatsoever. I posted that on this forum some time ago and I stand by those results
 
Eldorado2k said:
Sort of reminds me of the whole leather conditioner debate… “are you just slathering it on top of the impenetrable coating? Or is it actually beneficial to the leather seat”?

And others say to wait like 5yrs before you start using leather conditioner.. But what if using leather conditioner would’ve protected the factory finish from day 1 instead of leaving it unprotected?

Similar to using a plastic trim restorer. Do you really want to wait till your exterior trim starts to fade before you use it? Or maybe it would’ve been wiser to have used it to protect the factory finish from the start. Same thing with paint protection, but not the leather seats?

Btw I’ve never had a problem with leather conditioners. And I also did a test that spanned 3-4 months proving they don’t attract dust whatsoever. I posted that on this forum some time ago and I stand by those results
Click to expand...
I like the look of it. Really doesn't matter to me if it works or not. At this stage in the game I will be dead before the leather will be
 
MisterSnoop said:
84 microns is 3.3 mils. 130 microns is 5.1 mils.

it wouldn't be unreasonable to have differences like that if a portion of the car was repainted. is this the difference in the same location?
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Yeah, pretty much in every location. I’m telling you somethings wrong here. I’m thinking about returning the one. I paid $250 for. And just keep using my 50 $60 one I think that’s more correct then my expensive one which is reading 84 versus 130. I really feel 130 is about right for a 2025 brand new off the lot…. I know Toyota and a lot of other car manufacturersare starting to be skimpy on the clear coat, but not that skimpy…..
 
What about you guys? What paint gauges do you use to measure your paint before some heavy? Correction if needed?
 
Kenny94 said:
Yeah, pretty much in every location. I’m telling you somethings wrong here. I’m thinking about returning the one. I paid $250 for. And just keep using my 50 $60 one I think that’s more correct then my expensive one which is reading 84 versus 130. I really feel 130 is about right for a 2025 brand new off the lot…. I know Toyota and a lot of other car manufacturersare starting to be skimpy on the clear coat, but not that skimpy…..
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I don't know about Toyota but readings in the 80's would seem right for a new Mazda.
 
I’m gonna return it to Amazon and I just selected to receive another one just to make sure there’s nothing wrong with the unit itself. Thanks again fellas….
 
Kenny94 said:
What about you guys? What paint gauges do you use to measure your paint before some heavy? Correction if needed?
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My eyeballs 👀
Have been polishing paint on a daily basis for almost 50 years.
I've only burned through twice.
Both of those were on the edge. When you get close to the edge lighten up on the pressure.
It's alot harder than some would want you to believe to burn through your clear coat
 
Kenny94 said:
What about you guys? What paint gauges do you use to measure your paint before some heavy? Correction if needed?
Click to expand...

I use the best paint gauge money can buy. This one. I think I paid like $9 bucks.
Based on the way it has to be calibrated before use I pretty much find it an impossibility for it to not give accurate readings. [once it’s calibrated the 1st time it stays calibrated. I check it once in a while to make sure and it stays good]

eaed8f63ba5929700b2b805af48ffa02.jpg
 
Eldorado2k said:
I use the best paint gauge money can buy. This one. I think I paid like $9 bucks.
Based on the way it has to be calibrated before use I pretty much find it an impossibility for it to not give accurate readings. [once it’s calibrated the 1st time it stays calibrated. I check it once in a while to make sure and it stays good]

eaed8f63ba5929700b2b805af48ffa02.jpg
Click to expand...
Where did you get this??
I need one so my customers will think I know what I am doing
 
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