Protecting my new truck?

D

Dusterbd13

New member
Joined
Oct 29, 2017
Messages
21
Reaction score
3
So. Im not a detailer, at least not by my standards. Ive claybarred, ceramicoated, wetsanded and buffed new paint, got swirls and blemishes ALMOST out of old paint.
Usually I'm a restorer/race car/repair kinda guy. Nuts and bolts and welder stuff.

Thats out of the way.

I bought a brand new 2024 maverick in azure grey tricoat. It has 309 miles on it. First brand new car, so I want to do things right.

I think I want to ceramicoat it. Door jambs, paint, wheels....

But do i?

I have most of a bottle of ckquick 3.0 here, which is the only ceramicoat I've ever used.

Is there something better?
Is it right to ceramicoat the textured plastics? Wheels? Wheelwells?
What about prep?
Does the tricot change things?


Feel kinda like i know how to wade in a creek, but now I'm diving headfirst into a sharknado and im nervous. Just don't want to waste a ton of time, screw up my new truck, etc.

Thanks in advance y'all.
 
Lots of coatings, lots of opinions. I'm presuming you meant you have CQuartz UK 3.0, I haven't used that, but it came out in 2018, and I think a lot of people would say that some of the newer coatings are easier to use.

As far as your other questions, definitely coat the wheels, if the wheel wells are plastic I guess you could coat them but I haven't heard of anyone doing that, not with ceramic coating, anyway, usually some acrylic (engine coat) kind of product, but usually the wheel wells are some combo of plastic, undercoat, fabric, etc.

Textured plastics...can be tricky to coat. I would say definitely yes but I have seen coating change the appearance on new cars, so just be aware it could make some parts "shinier".

Tricoat doesn't change anything regarding coating, prep...most people would do a light polish, but there are things you could/would do in addition to or instead.

I'm sure someone else will give you more cogent answers than I'm giving.
 
If you already have it, use it
If the paint looks good (and doesn't bead when you wash it) you can apply the coating without polishing

You can always redo it in a year or 2
 
Flash Gordon said:
If you already have it, use it
If the paint looks good (and doesn't bead when you wash it) you can apply the coating without polishing

You can always redo it in a year or 2
Click to expand...
Common sense isn't allowed around here last time I checked..... :p
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Lots of coatings, lots of opinions. I'm presuming you meant you have CQuartz UK 3.0, I haven't used that, but it came out in 2018, and I think a lot of people would say that some of the newer coatings are easier to use.

As far as your other questions, definitely coat the wheels, if the wheel wells are plastic I guess you could coat them but I haven't heard of anyone doing that, not with ceramic coating, anyway, usually some acrylic (engine coat) kind of product, but usually the wheel wells are some combo of plastic, undercoat, fabric, etc.

Textured plastics...can be tricky to coat. I would say definitely yes but I have seen coating change the appearance on new cars, so just be aware it could make some parts "shinier".

Tricoat doesn't change anything regarding coating, prep...most people would do a light polish, but there are things you could/would do in addition to or instead.

I'm sure someone else will give you more cogent answers than I'm giving.
Click to expand...
Whats this acrylic coating you speak of? I tried a quick Google and apparently don't know enough to effectively search it.
I just want to make it all easier to keep sneaky clean.
 
Flash Gordon said:
If you already have it, use it
If the paint looks good (and doesn't bead when you wash it) you can apply the coating without polishing

You can always redo it in a year or 2
Click to expand...
Fair enough! When ive done the other cars, ive done a round of washing with dish soap prior to claybar to try and remove everything from the paint. Then another round of dish soap wash after claybar, after polishing. I tried chemical guys clean slate as well, but it didn't seem to work as good as dawn.
Am I missing something/screwing up?
 
Dusterbd13 said:
Fair enough! When ive done the other cars, ive done a round of washing with dish soap prior to claybar to try and remove everything from the paint. Then another round of dish soap wash after claybar, after polishing. I tried chemical guys clean slate as well, but it didn't seem to work as good as dawn.
Am I missing something/screwing up?
Click to expand...
Dont use soap especially dish soap after polishing....use a panel prep or a 50/50 alcohol/water solution
 
Dusterbd13 said:
Fair enough! When ive done the other cars, ive done a round of washing with dish soap prior to claybar to try and remove everything from the paint. Then another round of dish soap wash after claybar, after polishing. I tried chemical guys clean slate as well, but it didn't seem to work as good as dawn.
Am I missing something/screwing up?
Click to expand...
What bosko said 👍
Dish soap (I use it exclusively myself) will leave a film on the surface
Panel prep is pretty cheap and has an indefinite shelf life
 
Congrats on the new ride, and a cool color also. I’d say put anything on the paint that you’d like; coating, sealant etc. CQuartz UK is a nice coating. How long has it been opened?

What kind of weather do you get? If this is exposed to salt, I’d argue that spraying a metal protector such as Fluid Film, Wool Wax etc the the undercarriage and metal parts (obviously not the brakes or rubber hoses/seals) is more important.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: BLM
There are easier to apply, but CQUK3.0 was pretty simple nice glosss m, great protection. There are probably better due to being 6 years since its came out but nothing where I would buy it over using what you already have.

Again skip the Dawn. Spend the $15 bucks on panel prep or look up how to make your own with IPA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Im in north carolina. Right outside Charlotte. Truck will be in the carport when not being driven.
Does this change any reccomendatiins?

And I will grab some panel prep. Part of why i did the wash in between was to get all the crap that polishing slings around off and to make sure it's all clean.
 
Dusterbd13 said:
Im in north carolina. Right outside Charlotte.
Does this change any reccomendatiins?
Click to expand...
Yes you can probably skip the Fluid Film. Use whatever product you are comfortable with. Probably keeping it clean and something on the exterior to protect and possibly should consider using something that provides UV protection.
 
Are you using "lube" when you clay?
If you are you will need to polish that off. That stuff is worse than having wax on your clear coat
 
Flash Gordon said:
Are you using "lube" when you clay?
If you are you will need to polish that off. That stuff is worse than having wax on your clear coat
Click to expand...
Ive been using quick detailer and mothers claybar 2.0 (the one that looks like a computer mouse). I hadn't done anything prior to polishing before.
 
Dusterbd13 said:
Ive been using quick detailer and mothers claybar 2.0 (the one that looks like a computer mouse). I hadn't done anything prior to polishing before.
Click to expand...
That's a problem.
The quick detailer that's left behind is not going to let the coating adhere to the surface.
You may be able to wash it off using Dawn. When you wash let the suds sit on the paint until it is almost drying on the paint. Then rinse. Then wash again.
If the water lays flat you are good to go. If it beads at all either keep washing OR polish it off.
Another thing you could try would be a touchless car wash (harsh chemicals)
Just make sure you don't purchase the Deluxe version that includes wax
😉
Keep us posted 📫
 
For future reference, skip the lube. Clay the paint during the wash process.
Soap suds (Dawn) is all that you need
 
Im learning a LOT here. Thank you all for the practical knowledge dump.

Is there something different than my current ceramicoat i should be using instead? Because after my truck, I'll be doing my 70 duster (20 year old restoration) and my freshly restored 99 turbo miata. Im willing to buy a different product or something that makes for a better and easier finished product.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top