Is 106ff adequate enough to remove medium swirling w/ flex3401?

m4gician

m4gician

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Hey guys,

The reason i'm asking is because the majority of cars i see have the swirling in this video:

Flex XC 3401 VRG vs. Porter Cable 7424

and, in the video are removed by 106ff and flex3401 with white pad on speed 6. Does that mean I don't have to use orange pad with 106ff or even SIP to remove that kind of deep swirling?

Also, is it safe to assume that 106ff + white pad spd 6 + flex 3401 is a safe go to combo for that amount of swirling on that car that he did?

If so, that's what I'm going to be doing for attacking an audi's paint.

Lastly, if I don't seem to cut it with that combo, should I up to SIP right away? Or should I go to an Orange pad? Or both?
 
The amount of correction that can be accomplished with a Flex + white + Nano is very dependant on how hard the clear coat is... on soft clear, it can do quite a bit, on some harder clears... no way.

Flex+white+Nano would be a very safe starting point in my opinion...

I don't know how hard your Audi paint is but I believe I've read that it can be quite hard... best advice I can give is give it try, but have some SIP and a more agressive pad handy too.
 
makdaddy626 said:
The amount of correction that can be accomplished with a Flex + white + Nano is very dependant on how hard the clear coat is... on soft clear, it can do quite a bit, on some harder clears... no way.

Flex+white+Nano would be a very safe starting point in my opinion...

I don't know how hard your Audi paint is but I believe I've read that it can be quite hard... best advice I can give is give it try, but have some SIP and a more agressive pad handy too.
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Ya, hey thanks for the advice. My former go to combo was ssr2.5 with UDM and orange. It's a 2002 black audi a4 so I figure I'll go with SIP orange and speed 6, then 5 for glazing. I just wanted to see if I could save time by polishing as one step and not two.
 
It's definately worth the time to a 2 step (if it needs it) on black paint!!! Be sure to share pics with us.
 
Aron..Do you already have the Flex? If not, I agree with above post and would get a rotary. You can do so much more correction; then introduce wool pads and the sky's the limit. You may need to go to PG because the SIP isn't THAT much stronger than the 106. 106 after pg would be a glorious combo!!
 
richy said:
Aron..Do you already have the Flex? If not, I agree with above post and would get a rotary. You can do so much more correction; then introduce wool pads and the sky's the limit. You may need to go to PG because the SIP isn't THAT much stronger than the 106. 106 after pg would be a glorious combo!!
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I would suggest, get a Makita 9227 off E-Bay and use some Lake Country Foamed Wool with SIP.

I have very hard clear and I was able to remove swirls easily and finish LSP ready afterwards. Just out of habit, I decided to follow the LC Foamed Wool/SIP combo with LC White Foam and 106ff and could notice NO difference between areas I went over with the LC White Foam/106ff and areas which were only buffed with LC Foamed Wool/SIP. The LC Foamed wool finishes so nicely. A wonderful combo of cutting and finishing.
 
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the Flex is also quite worthy of correction and a bit safer than rotary for more hobbist. Think twice the power of most orbitals.
 
...so I'm just going to try it out...and let you guys know! :D I'm going to get me a huge roll of blue painters tape :D
 
Don't forget to cover tires and wheels also. Polish is a pita to get off those areas.
 
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