Got a little problem

Hey no prob, i hear ya. I do love my PC, but i do see at some point in the future going ahead and jumping up to the rotary. I understand where everyone is coming from. I didnt want to get everyone worked up, cuz i know detailing can be a picky subject, which happens to make it so much fun. I really appreciate all the comments though, makes for good future use
 
hahaha ohh yea most deffinately... i assume ill probably be going to the scrap yard looking for fenders and such..What other kind of ways can you train for the rotary. I dont really have anyone around to really show me. Guess ill have to use the good Ol internet
 
Watch some videos as well. Just be sure to take your time and keep the rotary moving the whole time.
 
AudiTTman said:
Hey no prob, i hear ya. I do love my PC, but i do see at some point in the future going ahead and jumping up to the rotary. I understand where everyone is coming from. I didnt want to get everyone worked up, cuz i know detailing can be a picky subject, which happens to make it so much fun. I really appreciate all the comments though, makes for good future use
Click to expand...


Hahaha. I don't think anyone was getting worked up. :)

We really do need some more emoticons.

Let us know how it works out. ;)
 
guys, i know i sound like a broken record...

but...

i've had much success with a yellow spot buff and optimum compound using my PC. i've gotten really bad deep scratches out of a 2001 f360 and an 06 mini GP recently with using that combo, then refining with an orange pad and OP, then finally a green pad and poli-seal.

i feel it's the ticket combo for PC users who need to attack major scratches in medium to hard clear.

it didn't take much pressure other than the the weight of the PC. after spreading it manually with the PC, i put it on speed 6, let the thing move slightly but rotate freely at full speed, and let the mechanical action of the pad work the compound in. it really came out incredibly well on both vehicles.
 
Ohh i like hearing that. Like i said earlier, i love my PC, and its done amazing on my car and a few others ive gotten a hold of. Now i know this sounds like a newbie question, but should i really be puttin pressure at anytime on the DA while im workin in polishes, because i just let the weight of the PC do it for me
 
AudiTTman said:
Ohh i like hearing that. Like i said earlier, i love my PC, and its done amazing on my car and a few others ive gotten a hold of. Now i know this sounds like a newbie question, but should i really be puttin pressure at anytime on the DA while im workin in polishes, because i just let the weight of the PC do it for me
Click to expand...

You should be applying pressure to start and then reduce pressure as the polish starts to break down. You don't want the pad to stop rotating though. I good trick is to put a mark on the backing plate or pad with a sharpie. While polishing, push down to where the pad stops rotating, and then back it off enough to get it spinning again. Usually about 15lbs of pressure is what you want during correction, but the key it to keep the pad spinning. ;)


Rasky
 
AudiTTman said:
Ohh i like hearing that. Like i said earlier, i love my PC, and its done amazing on my car and a few others ive gotten a hold of. Now i know this sounds like a newbie question, but should i really be puttin pressure at anytime on the DA while im workin in polishes, because i just let the weight of the PC do it for me
Click to expand...

the only cases when i am putting additional pressure is when maybe for the first couple seconds after manually spreading the chemical, when i turn it on 1 or 2 to get the stuff spread around. esp with ccs pads, i do this because there might be some additional liquid bunched up in one of the CCS pockets so i don't want it to potentially sling. i use the minimal amount of product allowed typically so that isn't usually a problem.
this is very minor though, i mean, it's only a little bit of weight, and for a very short time.

the other time i use some weight is when i'm trying to focus the work of the pad on surfaces near an edge. i tend to tilt the buffer a bit favoring that edge area which seems to induce a little bit of added weight, but again...minor.

and, i guess the last area i do this is when the polisher is vertical, i add some weight to compensate for the polisher not having gravity toward the surface.

all minor stuff, so unless someone does something different, the general rule for me is to use pretty much the weight of the polisher with maybe a tad additional weight from the hand and part of the arm while directing the polisher.

oh yeah, when i'm focusing on a heavy defect with a smaller pad, i might give some added pressure to create a little more heat, but nothing crazy. i like to let the speed create most of the heat since you have to take what you can get with a PC in that department ; )

maybe someone has some additional info, but seems to work for me.
 
hahahah i hear ya man, well im gonna add alil pressure on this next go around. I was out of detailing yesterday due to my failing light stand. One 500W bulb blew out, then 2 mins later the whole thing stopped working. Nows ive got a fresh set of lights(actually went and returned mine for a brand new setup) and ill be ready to get some photos of the process ahha. If the orange doesnt work, i think im just going to buy the 3pack of yellow 5.5 pads. Pretty good deal i think

THank you for your input, i love to hear from you guys.
 
Hey man. I think yellow might be a little too aggressive. As said above, just add a little bit of pressure until the polish/compound gets broken down. There was a thread on here about the center of the pad caving in from too much pressure. Just keep that in mind. Get them pictures up! :)
 
i agree.

while it can't hurt to have the bigger yellow pads on hand so you have a complete collection...IMO the only yellow pad that is really a necessary staple in my PC arsenal is the small spot buff size for major spot defect removal.
 
so with the mark on the backing plate, I kinda got confused. Am i putting the mark on there as an indication of when im pressing too hard???
 
AudiTTman said:
so with the mark on the backing plate, I kinda got confused. Am i putting the mark on there as an indication of when im pressing too hard???
Click to expand...
The mark is just to help you tell when the pad is rotating. It allows you to have a reference point that is easy to see.
When you apply enough pressure to stop the pad from rotating, you greatly reduce the capability of the PC.
Probably the best work is done when you apply enough pressure to stop the pad from rotating and then back off enough to allow it to rotate again.
It sounds more complicated than it really is.
After you try it a few times, you will develop a feel for it.
 
CharlesW said:
The mark is just to help you tell when the pad is rotating. It allows you to have a reference point that is easy to see.
When you apply enough pressure to stop the pad from rotating, you greatly reduce the capability of the PC.
Probably the best work is done when you apply enough pressure to stop the pad from rotating and then back off enough to allow it to rotate again.
It sounds more complicated than it really is.
After you try it a few times, you will develop a feel for it.
Click to expand...

:whs:
 
alright, so now that i got that down..what about for a white pad with Nano on it. Do i need to apply the same pressure like i did for the SIP/w orange? I figured since it was a finishing polishes that i didnt really need to press down very hard, but alteast give it a little pressure
 
AudiTTman said:
alright, so now that i got that down..what about for a white pad with Nano on it. Do i need to apply the same pressure like i did for the SIP/w orange? I figured since it was a finishing polishes that i didnt really need to press down very hard, but alteast give it a little pressure
Click to expand...
The "white" pad and "Nano" don't mean anything to me, but....
When working on an area of marring, I use quite a bit of pressure to start with and then back off on the pressure to finish.
My vehicles rarely need a lot of correction and most of the time I just use the weight of the machine. If that doesn't do the work, I then apply more pressure. Once the flaw is no longer visible, I go back to the lighter pressure.
FWIW, I have some light cutting pads, but have never used anything more aggressive than a polishing pad on our vehicles. GM, Ford, and Honda for the most part.
If the paint on your car is as hard as it has been described, the cutting pads may be necessary. Not having used them, I can't speak from experience, but I have read that the cutting pad will sometimes leave some marring. Often the marring follows the orbital pattern of the PC.

If I have something I can't remove with a polishing pad, I have a friend hit it with his rotary. He can do more paint removal in 2 minutes than I can in 20 minutes with my PC. He calls my PC my toy. :D
 
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