Meguiars Unigrit Sanding Block

Rsurfer

Rsurfer

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Has anyone used this? Is it easier to use than using a reg sanding block and paper? Thanks
 
Rsurfer said:
Has anyone used this? Is it easier to use than using a reg sanding block and paper? Thanks
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I used it at Detail fest while in the class with Mike from Megs .Matched with with there paper it was a great combo.
 
I have used them. They are awesome! A few weeks ago, I had a slight accident with my wife's Accord and the side of the bumper had a few deep gouges in it. I decided to try and fix it myself. I filled in the gouges with putty and primer and then I spray painted it with Duplicolor spray paint. The paint was single stage, so I did not have to deal with a clearcoat. I was in a hurry and I wound up with some paint running down the bumper. I tried leveling the area through aggressive wetsanding, to no avail.
I then read about the sanding blocks. I ordered a 1500 grit and 2000 grit block and went to work on the paint runs. They worked like a charm! I was able to level the surface with the 1500 and then smoothed it more with 2000. I then wetsanded the area with Meguiar's 2500 grit sandpaper (wrapped around Meguiar's sanding pad, of course) before polishing it out with PG(yellow LC pad), IP(orange LC pad) and finally FP II(white LC pad). The bumper looks pretty close to new again. I would have taken pictures, except I had no idea it would come out as well as it did.

I don't know what you are planning with the sanding blocks, but they were a lifesaver for me.:cheers:
 
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termigator said:
I have used them. They are awesome! A few weeks ago, I had a slight accident with my wife's Accord and the side of the bumper had a few deep gouges in it. I decided to try and fix it myself. I filled in the gouges with putty and primer and then I spray painted it with Duplicolor spray paint. The paint was single stage, so I did not have to deal with a clearcoat. I was in a hurry and I wound up with some paint running down the bumper. I tried leveling the area through aggressive wetsanding, to no avail.
I then read about the sanding blocks. I ordered a 1500 grit and 2000 grit block and went to work on the paint runs. They worked like a charm! I was able to level the surface with the 1500 and then smoothed it more with 2000. I then wetsanded the area with Meguiar's 2500 grit sandpaper (wrapped around Meguiar's sanding pad, of course) before polishing it out with PG(yellow LC pad), IP(orange LC pad) and finally FP II(white LC pad). The bumper looks pretty close to new again. I would have taken pictures, except I had no idea it would come out as well as it did.

I don't know what you are planning with the sanding blocks, but they were a lifesaver for me.:cheers:
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Just wondered if they were easier to use than a block and paper.
 
I feel like I should be able to cut a block of wood and put some paper on the bottom and there you go...sanding block! I mean I have some wood in my garage...worth a shot?
 
I guess you could use a block of wood and sandpaper, but I like the sandblock. I didn't have to do it, but you're supposed to be able to shape it to conform to the area you're sanding. Also, unless you glue the sandpaper to the block, you don't have to worry about the sandpaper sliding around on the block.
 
I'll look at them in stores and see what they're all about :). I probably could have used one today when I took out a scratch.
 
If you read the description, it says to use it for leveling paint. For scratches, you should still use sandpaper. Personally, I would not use the sanding block unless the car has SS paint. It will cut through the CC really quick if you're not careful.
 
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termigator said:
If you read the description, it says to use it for leveling paint. For scratches, you should still use sandpaper. Personally, I would not use the sanding block unless the car has SS paint. It will cut through the CC really quick if you're not careful.
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Thanks for the tip. I think I will stick with the pad and paper.
 
Rsurfer said:
Thanks for the tip. I think I will stick with the pad and paper.
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I have foung on Megs Uni-Grit that the grit is of a more uniform size or grade then say a 3m or other brand of like paper and requires less correction afterwards. Try another brand of the matching grit along side of the Megs paper and see which one takes the least amount of correction to restore a corrected surface.As far as rubber pads or blocks , it is kind of personal preference depending on contour of pannel and type or hardness of paint.

PS: Megs is actually not a true paper but a woven material that will last a long time in water.
 
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