Sealants

zinc02gt

zinc02gt

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So, this coming Monday I will be investing in a new line of detailing prducts which includes a PC and a full Pinnacle polish etc.

Anyway, I was considering Optimum Poli-Seal, but as I read into it I saw that it actually contains abrasivesand is advertised to act as a 'polish' and sealant.

After a claybar, I'll be following it up with the XMT Intermediate Swirl remover #3, XMT Fine Swirl Remover #2, and the XMT Ultra Fine Swirl remover #1, with the XMT Carnauba Finishing Glaze. I am going to be using Poorboy's Natty's Blue Paste Wax seeing as how Pinnacle Souveran Paste is just a tad out of my price range.

All I need is a nice sealant and am Conserned that the Optimum Poli-Seal will affect the polish job.

Any thoughts?


Also, what is a good cure time for the coat of sealant?
 
Skip the XMT glaze, do an IPA wipe down after XMT 1 and seal with Wolfgang 3.0. Most sealants require a 12 hr. cure time. You can then top with Natty. Post some pictures before and after.
 
Erm.... IPA? Sorry not used to the acronyms.
 
zinc02gt said:
Erm.... IPA? Sorry not used to the acronyms.
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Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol. This is to remove any oils or fillers that might be left behind by your polish. This will reveal any marring that you might have missed (take in the sun to inspect for swrils) and will give you a clean surface for your sealant.
 
I've heard of using IPA to truley clean a car, but it'd be fine without a sealant really? I was told to follow a polish job up with a sealant and wax.
 
You don't have to do an IPA wipe down, but doing this will show you the true finish before sealing or waxing. It's cheap and so easy to do. Remember, your polishing work is 90% of the final outcome. You can use a $2,000 wax, but if you don't polish correctly you will not achieve the max shine.
 
zinc02gt said:
I've heard of using IPA to truley clean a car, but it'd be fine without a sealant really? I was told to follow a polish job up with a sealant and wax.
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He's talking about using the IPA before the sealant or wax. The IPA only lets you know if you need to polish more, by revealing marring concealed by the polish fillers.
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Sorry, didn't answer your last question. You can seal, wax or both. It's your call. No one system is best. Since you have the wax and no sealant, go ahead and wax after polishing. You can then use the XMT glaze before waxing.
 
I don't have the stuff yet. I am piecing together a 'kit' and wanted advice on a sealant.

I see what you're saying though. Thanks for the tid bit.
 
zinc02gt said:
I don't have the stuff yet. I am piecing together a 'kit' and wanted advice on a sealant.

I see what you're saying though. Thanks for the tid bit.
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If you get a pc, be sure to get 5.5" pads with a 5" backing plate. The 6.5" pads are too big for the pc. It would not be bad to get some 4" pads for heavier correction and tight areas. Good Luck!
 
I can't understand why PBMA would put out a kit like that. They give you a 5.25" cutting pad, but give you the rest in 6.5". Not only will the pc bog down with the 6.5" pads, the smaller 5" backing plate will cut into the 6.5" pads because of the excessive over hang of the pad. It's you choice, but I stand behind what I said.
 
I've used the PC with the 6.5" pads and while they work, I don't recommend them. The 5.5" pads will do much better.

As for sealants, I use Poli-Seal and I have used the Wolfgang. Poli-Seal has slight abrasives. I used it as a 1-step. The Wolfgang has no abrasives and is an excellent sealant. Best I've seen in fact.

There are many fine polishes out there by many manufacturers. I decided to go with the Poorboy's World line because I often have to work out in the sun. The Menzerna line is highly respected also.
 
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