Is there a wax that will allow paint to "off-gas"??

[NHinAK]

Backing my Tundra into the garage the other day I accidentally damaged the drivers side fender and bumper. Both are getting repaired and (re)painted.

Is there a wax or sealant that I can use on the bumper and fender that will allow the new paint to off-gas? I want the paint to cure correctly, but also would like to have some protection on it at the same time. The truck was detailed 2 weeks ago using DG601 and 105 with periodic uses of AW. I don't suppose putting a coat of 601/105 would allow it to cure correctly??

 

[CharlesW]

Backing my Tundra into the garage the other day I accidentally damaged the drivers side fender and bumper. Both are getting repaired and (re)painted.

Is there a wax or sealant that I can use on the bumper and fender that will allow the new paint to off-gas? I want the paint to cure correctly, but also would like to have some protection on it at the same time. The truck was detailed 2 weeks ago using DG601 and 105 with periodic uses of AW. I don't suppose putting a coat of 601/105 would allow it to cure correctly??

A friend of mine that had a body shop for years swore by Wizard's Shine Master for what you are wanting to do.
They claim it is fine for use on fresh paint.

"If SHINE MASTER protects like a wax doesn’t it seal off the fresh paint? How does the paint dry?? ​

Great question! SHINE MASTER is a breathable polymer sealant. What this means is that the protective qualities are in the plastic family but they are not a film former. It does not totally encase the finish. It provides a micro thin layer of polyethylene polymer that creates a shingling effect with the ability to protect from the environment, but still allows the solvents to escape. Another example would be like a teepee that lets the smoke out, but won’t let the rain in."

LINK REMOVED ---

 

[watermantra]

I realize this may be controversial...but I've heard a couple of painters I respect say that it makes little difference to the off-gassing and curing of the paint whether you apply a wax or not.

HOWEVER, I personally don't do it...call it tradition or superstition or something...I usually just use a non-sealing glaze on newly painted sections.

 

[ScottB]

I heard this "myth" several years ago and asked several painters and they all suggest no heavy chemicals and waxes. I then asked someone how waxes versus sealants work, as it is often suggested that sealants are better choice on curing paint yet bond to paint.

What I believe is now true based upon these an many other conversations is a pure wax is the best choice. Any wax with cleaners or polishes could do some damage if paint is not fully cured. It also appears a paint sealant "could" have a harder time allowing outgasing as they seal and bond over paint.

Carnauba wax is actually found on leaves in brazil and these leaves still take in oxygen and dont discolor or die with carnuaba on them, yet very resilent to water and bead and protect the leaves.

It certainly is not scientific as I have no degree, but over the years if any paintwork has been done I have placed a coat of Souveran Paste on it without issue. With more than several new black roof panels replaced, not one showed any issue with waxing with a pure wax immediately after getting car back and far before the 30-60 days some suggest.

 

[Hisside]

If you want a sealer, the Wizard's Shine Master will work. I work in a body shop and this is what we use, because it is safe for fresh paint. It is also a nice polish to use if you are in a hurry.