Burning Paint with PC 7424

calhoun1

calhoun1

New member
Joined
Dec 8, 2008
Messages
248
Reaction score
0
Is it possible to burn the paint with it?

I was just using it on my black car, and unfortunately it was in the sun.

I was using a blue pad with PO 85RD. I managed to get a quarter size wrinkle/hole in the paint. Is this possible with just the PC, or could a defect in the paint be an issue?

Also as you can see in the pictures this goes all the way down to the primer/plastic. So I am extremely upset at myself. Thinking about going to the dealer and saying I was just washing the car and this happened...

This is a brand new car, if that will help...

Pictures:
DSC00744.jpg

DSC00745.jpg

DSC00746.jpg
 
Last edited:
I never seen damage like that from a random orbital buffer, the surrounding paint wrinkled like it was not even cured. Need a professional to chime in here ...
 
That is my thought. Any other burn I have seen on here has been a defined burn mark. I hope I can take it to the dealer and have it fixed as a paint defect...
 
that is insane. i would be at the dealer asap. not sure what you want to say though. but i doubt it should happen unless you really bore down on it?
 
Well, if it was already hot from the sun, and you buffed it, that would make the paint even hotter than if you buffed it in the shade or indoors where it is relatively cool. I WOULD ask you if the paint got hot, but as it was in the sun, it probably already WAS. If you had buffed it in the shade where the paint was cool before you started and the paint never got hot and that happened, then there was definitely defective paintwork. If it was already hot, I'm just not sure how much heat paint that is probably water based can take, especially before it is completely cured.
 
It doesn't look like that paint bonded. Looks like when you poke a hole in shrink rap, and it pulls back with crinkles.
 
It seems the side of the pad dug into the paint and then it just pushed into a clump. This is what will happen on a plastic piece when the edge of a pad grabs the paint. Also the paint being hot from the start just makes it that much easier to wrinkle the paint like in your picture.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
It seems the side of the pad dug into the paint and then it just pushed into a clump. This is what will happen on a plastic piece when the edge of a pad grabs the paint. Also the paint being hot from the start just makes it that much easier to wrinkle the paint like in your picture.
Click to expand...

Sounds right, just goes to show no matter what kind of buffer you use, be careful!
 
Nope it is a Pontiac, and it was a 5.5" pad.
 
I would NOT mention using the buffer on the car to the dealer. Take it back and tell him you just noticed it one day. All they can do is say no.

Paint doesn't look cured to me. I am no pro though- for sure.

Were you using alot of pressure when buffing?
 
lethalxls1 said:
I would NOT mention using the buffer on the car to the dealer. Take it back and tell him you just noticed it one day. All they can do is say no.

Paint doesn't look cured to me. I am no pro though- for sure.

Were you using alot of pressure when buffing?
Click to expand...
Yeah. If you mention that you were using a buffer, there is almost no way they will pay to have it fixed. If you DO end up having to pay to have it fixed, I suggest you have it painted in acrylic urethane, like Deltron, if you can. It is waay more durable, and even has a better shine.
 
Last edited:
Jesus, that is crazy. It looks like three possibilities to me:

1.) You were using WAY too much pressure.
2.) Low quality pain job.
3.) Uncured paint.

It could also be any combination of the three possibilities.
 
This is very common on plastic pieces that are painted when you are not paying attention.This is from too much heat on the plastic and the paint releases from the plastic. I doubt the dealer would even fix that under warranty, since being a service manager I would deny it because it is clearly had help to bunch up like that.
 
This is a lesson here. Always buff when the paint is cool, so you can check the temp of the paint when buffing. So long as the paint stays cool, at least only somewhat warm, you won't burn through the paint. If you start out buffing a hot surface, it will be easier to get into trouble, and you won't know when you are getting into trouble, either.
One more thing to keep in mind is that flexible urethane body panels have flex agent added to the paint in order to make it flexible so it won't crack when that body part is pushed in. This makes the paint on flexible body parts softer than on the rest of the car. This makes it more likely to crinkle the paint as seen in this example.
 
Last edited:
Did the car have paint work done to it, I would
hope if it was new there would not be any. My
buddy bought a brand new car at a chevy dealer
and the whole side was done and they never told him !!!!!!!!
 
I wouldn't be surprised if that part of the car was repainted. It is pretty common for cars to get dinged up in transit and they will have a mobil painter clean it up for $150. My cousin used to do just that at a local Lexus dealership. They would never tell the customer either. :(
 
D_Nyholm said:
I wouldn't be surprised if that part of the car was repainted. It is pretty common for cars to get dinged up in transit and they will have a mobil painter clean it up for $150. My cousin used to do just that at a local Lexus dealership. They would never tell the customer either. :(
Click to expand...

I can't say I've seen them do this on new cars but I've seen mobile guys touching up cars to be sold in the back parking lot at a Mercedes dealership as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top