Here goes....

P

pacmann50

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After reading many forums this newb has made a purchase. I went with all WG. My shopping list:
-PC7424xp
-CCS, orange (cut), white (polish), blue (finish) //pads
-WG autobathe, tire & wheel cleaner, black diamond tire gell, poly clay, clay lube
-WG Total Swirl Remove 3.0, finishing glaze 3.0, paint sealant 3.0, detail spritz.
-MF towels.

My plan:
-Wash, Clay, Wash
-orange pad/swirl remove, white pad/finish glaze, blue pad/sealant (as directed)
-tire gell then maybe spritz.

My victim:
97 ford f1504x4 off road truck /red
10 toyota camry xle metalic /gray

Did not buy a foamer or fuzion because, well, they cost to dang much. Now I pray my new AG friends steered me in the right direction. :work:
 
My plan:
-Wash, Clay, Wash
-orange pad/swirl remove, white pad/finish glaze, blue pad/sealant (as directed)

Start with a white pad and if that doesn't work move up to the orange. The orange is pretty aggressive and you may have to finish down with the white pad. Glaze should be applied with the blue pad. Yellow and orange is for cutting, white is for polishing and gray/blue/red is for waxes/sealants. Good Luck.
 
sounds like the initial design is fair ... I would add and remove sealant by hand as desired however.

remember the finishing glaze by Wolfgang is actually similar to Nano 106FA and more of a light polish than a true glaze. If you find to much minor marring then : orange with TSR, white with TSR, and blue with FG.
 
Thank you gentleman!! My Ford will need the most work, the Toyota is new and probably will need very little cutting. Can I apply the sealant properly with the blue pad on the PC? I will take photos and post when I get started. My supplies should be here Weds., and I have set aside Thurs. to start the Ford.
 
pacmann50 said:
Can I apply the sealant properly with the blue pad on the PC?
Click to expand...

Yes, use the 3.0 to 4.0 speed setting as all you're trying to do is spread the sealant over the paint not trying to remove defects.

Test Spot
Before going over the entire car, see if you can make just one small section look good, that is apply the product you're planning on using over the entire car to just one small section about a foot squared or so. Work it in and then wipe it off, then apply the polish, work it in but not as much as the compound because now you're not trying to remove paint, just spread the product out, then immediately wipe it off, then apply your choice of wax or paint sealant and let it fully dry and then wipe it off. (Follow manufactures directions for drying time).

Now inspect our results. Make sure you can make one small section look GREAT before going over then entire car. If you can't make one small section look GREAT you won't be able to make the entire car look GREAT.

Make sense?

It should look like this, (borrowed from MOL here)

test_spot1.jpg



And if you're having any problems, the post back here after the test section and we'll help you tweak your technique to insure you get it right. You don't have to actually use painter's tape to tape off the section you're going to test on but having a tape line does really help to see the before and after results.

The last thing you want to do is perform an entire process over an entire car only to find out when you're finished that it doesn't look as good as you expected or hoped for, thus doing a test spot insures you're going to be happy at the end of the project.

:)
 
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O WOW! Nice turn around.

That really looks beautiful now!!!!!!

Btw, I wouldn't leave the can of wax sitting directly on the paint like that, maybe put a microfiber underneath it or just keep it off the paint all together (it can scratch metal to metal like that).
 
Yes, that was the wax I use to use. Going to use that on the company car now. I did learn how years of going to Mike's carwash had damaged the paint. Now for my Toyota...
 
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