Help: Garage Drywalling Material/Labor Estimation???

tenorplayer23

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Anybody have recent experience with paying for garage drywalling & insulation?

Have a 3-car garage (figure 24' x 36' or so). One wall is the fire barrier with the house/drywalled, insulated obviously & primed. The balance is unfinished, 2" x 4" studded walls, 1 large garage door and one single car garage door. Wall height is 9'. Ceiling will remain unfinished for now.

I desire insulation (assume fiberglass bats w/vapor barrier) & drywalling, plus basic tape/finishing for primer coat. Final painting to be done later.

What should I use as the approx. cost per sq. ft. (or "sheet"....or whatever metric) for MATERIALS & INSTALLATION?? One current estimate is ~$1300 total, including trimming out one window, plus installing 3 more electrical outlets.

Any estimates.........either local or otherwise??

Thanks in advance.

See ya.
wavey.gif


PS - Any better material choices besides drywall........I've seen plastic/laminate surfaces grooved for shelves/cabinet attachment, et.al. Not sure of the brand names.
 
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When I added my 2nd garage I did all the drywall and electrical work myself. I rented a device (not sure what it's called) that you set the drywall on and crank it up to the ceiling. Putting insulation in a studed wall is also very easy. I don't remember how much it cost me for the material but it was less half the cost of the cheapest quote I had to have someone else do it.
 
Before installing drywall, check on basement wall panels. Of course the city building dept. must approve of the product.

My garage is done with 2" basement wall system. Insulated, waterproof, mold & mildew proof, washable, paintable, quiet and seamless.

Hydra/Guard

More expensive, but more durable and offers high performance.

Do it yourself is always cheaper, but is it "professional"?
 
I had my Garage foamed in with Blue Spray-Foam called Walltite.

It's the same stuff that Mike Holmes uses on his Show, Holmes on Homes.

For me is was $1.10 per Inch of thickness, per Square Foot.

I too used a Drywall Lift and installed 5/8" Fire-Roc Drywall... cause it is a Garage and I wanted to be safer than using ordinary Drywall.

What a difference it has made.

I used to have the Pink Insulation and wanna-be Vapour-Barrier, but no more. It's a nice seemless Foam Blanket that also has built-in Vapour Barrier qualities to it.

Each Inch of thickness is equal to R8
 
I had my Garage foamed in with Blue Spray-Foam called Walltite.

It's the same stuff that Mike Holmes uses on his Show, Holmes on Homes.

If Mike Holmes uses it, it MUST be good haha :xyxthumbs:
 
I must be old fashioned. I did my own and rented a drywall lift for $35.00 per day. Have a 30x40 with 10'6" ceiling. Used pink fiberglass on the walls and blew in the ceiling. I'm so cheap I also ran my own gas line and hung the furnace. Electician friend of mine helped with putting in receptacles and light switches plus the flush mount t8 fixtures. Premier installed 24' of cabinets and when I save up enough I'll have em come back and coat the floor. I'm not a carpenter or builder by trade but too poor to hire stuff out. And when I do it myself I know what materials went into the job and how to repair it if needed.

Paul S
 
Yeah, if you can get a buddy and do the insulation and hanging of the drywall yourself and maybe pay some one to mud and tape it for you. The mudding is really where you want a pro to do it cause this will give you your final look before paint.
 
I agree w/DYI re: cost.

Ho about CEILING choices? Anybody have experience with drop ceilings vs. drywall? One friend of mine suggested them to allow easier access to the ceiling space.

Thx. for the input.

See ya
wavey.gif
 
I agree w/DYI re: cost.

Ho about CEILING choices? Anybody have experience with drop ceilings vs. drywall? One friend of mine suggested them to allow easier access to the ceiling space.

Thx. for the input.

See ya
wavey.gif

If there is anything above the ceiling (wires, pipes, hvac, etc.) you will need to drop it. Otherwise, don't go to the added expense. Dropped is costlier than drywall.
 
Nothing above it, except wiring for lights, garage door openers, etc..

Do you mean, don't use drop ceiling if there is nothing above it? Or don't do the ceiling at all?

I just thought that drop ceiling was no more difficult than drywall and it allowed you access to wherever you wanted above it.

If there is anything above the ceiling (wires, pipes, hvac, etc.) you will need to drop it. Otherwise, don't go to the added expense. Dropped is costlier than drywall.
 
Nothing above it, except wiring for lights, garage door openers, etc..

Do you mean, don't use drop ceiling if there is nothing above it? Or don't do the ceiling at all?

I just thought that drop ceiling was no more difficult than drywall and it allowed you access to wherever you wanted above it.

Since you have wiring etc above, I would use a dropped ceiling if it were me. Otherwise, you couldn't access them if there was a problem. If you are going to use recessed lighting, with a little planning you could install the recessed fixtures near the wiring so that if need be, you could get to them. Problem is, hard to find a 4 bulb recessed fixture that will fit between the joists.
 
For access to the ceiling and additional storage I installed a Louisville pull down ladder from the big box harware store. works great. The flush mount T8 4ft light fixtures came from Menards.

Paul S
 
Thx. for the info Paul The drop down ladder is a great consideration. I assume you drywalled the ceiling?? Regarding the "flush mount" fixtures, any pictures or links? Would like to have a look at yours specifically. Right now, I have four 8' T8's from the HD mounted on the ceiling joists across the garage. It's pretty bright today, even without 3 walls finished.

With or without finishing the walls, I want to add 4 more of those 8 ft. fixtures. I should have done so when installing the first four. They're very nice, but I'd like to create a day glow effect in the garage......plus, add some additional illumination coverage........obviously, with only 8 ft. of tube ~centrally located in a 24ft. deep garage, there are some less illuminated areas.

Just for reference, I had the opportunity to acquire old/discarded 220V fixtures from my employer yrs. ago (at a difference house). Had a two car garage and each fixture had 3 - 40W, 4ft. bulbs. 1000W in a relatively small space. Amazing illumination with white walls. WOW. I could literally see it from a mile away with the door up when driving through the neighborhood.

So, now, with a new house, I need to add the walls, appropriate ceiling, illumination & floor (likely Race Deck or similar). The bad news is, most may have to wait until spring.........temp. will be a high of 45F tomorrow. Bad for drywalling :( :(

Thx.

See ya
wavey.gif




For access to the ceiling and additional storage I installed a Louisville pull down ladder from the big box harware store. works great. The flush mount T8 4ft light fixtures came from Menards.

Paul S
 
Will be headed back to Indy tonite and will send light info in the AM.

Paul S
 
Anybody have recent experience with paying for garage drywalling & insulation?

Have a 3-car garage (figure 24' x 36' or so). One wall is the fire barrier with the house/drywalled, insulated obviously & primed. The balance is unfinished, 2" x 4" studded walls, 1 large garage door and one single car garage door. Wall height is 9'. Ceiling will remain unfinished for now.

I desire insulation (assume fiberglass bats w/vapor barrier) & drywalling, plus basic tape/finishing for primer coat. Final painting to be done later.

What should I use as the approx. cost per sq. ft. (or "sheet"....or whatever metric) for MATERIALS & INSTALLATION?? One current estimate is ~$1300 total, including trimming out one window, plus installing 3 more electrical outlets.

Any estimates.........either local or otherwise??

Thanks in advance.

See ya.
wavey.gif


PS - Any better material choices besides drywall........I've seen plastic/laminate surfaces grooved for shelves/cabinet attachment, et.al. Not sure of the brand names.



1300 for doing all of that and the labor is extremely cheap. I build homes here in East Texas as well as doing the detailing stuff.....I would check with that estimate again. I would assume it is for the labor only. You will probably be around 600 or 700 alone in material. But then again....I am here in Texas and would need to see the job to give a better idea. Hope this helps.
 
$1300 is his estimate for insulating & drywalling the 2 completely exposed walls, plus the wall with the garage doors. Includes labor & materials. Plus, he will trim one window and put in 3-4 electrical outlets. For the ceiling work, he estimated about the same amount (an additional $1300). Per my back of the envelope estimate, materials for the walls only, window trim out, outlets, would be less than $600 up here at The HD (swag at $450-500 or so). My guy does this on the side.....not trying to make a living, seems fair & per recommendations, does very exacting work. I'm lucky if his numbers are inexpensive, as well.

Say, since you're a contractor, what would you recommend for a ceiling?? Drywall seems to be the finish of choice, plus there have some other interesting suggestions. The joists are ~9 +/-ft. off the floor, plus have a peeked roof with rafters. I like the flexibility of being able to store long stuff on the joists, such as some spare lumber, hockey sticks, skis, etc.. It's easy when it's open. My contractor mentioned a drop ceiling in a garage?? Any opinion? Any superior techniques you've seen? Just thought I'd ask.

Anyway, thx for the tips. Feel free to add anything else you'd recommend for walls, ceiling or floor. Our temperature gradient is a bit different than East TX, but, the garage is pretty standard construction.

See ya
wavey.gif


1300 for doing all of that and the labor is extremely cheap. I build homes here in East Texas as well as doing the detailing stuff.....I would check with that estimate again. I would assume it is for the labor only. You will probably be around 600 or 700 alone in material. But then again....I am here in Texas and would need to see the job to give a better idea. Hope this helps.
 
I can, but not much to show.......just 2x4 studded walls, 3-car with one double door & a single door, concrete floor, drain in the middle, peeked roof. Approx. 24' x 36'. It's kinda ho-hum. If I wash the 'vette tomorrow, maybe I'll snap a few.

See ya
wavey.gif


Post some Pictures of this Garage !
 
I've got a couple ideas for you Tenor. You may want to add even more outlets. You can never have enough! I don't know what the amp rating is on your wall outlet circuit, but I would add 20 amp/12 guage plugs/wiring because a garage is more likely to have a greater amp demand than a typical house plug.

In regards to your lighting, cold weather H.O. would be best also I wouldn't put it all on one switch/circuit. You may want less lighting at various times.

Finally, take the time to plan ahead for future "wants" i.e. stereo/speakers, tv/cable etc. They are a whole lot harder to do once the drywall is up and painted.

Good luck

Mike
 
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