2007 Mustang GT Noob Help (buffer, pads,etc)

Grabber07'

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Hi Everyone,

I posted an introduction and Im glad i found this place. Looks like a very knowledgable bunch.

Ive been using a Craftsman Orbital buffer for the past 2 years applying polishes and wax...claybaring on occasion.

I am in the Market for a Buffer (leaning towards the Griot per the reviews). Need everything to go along with it as well (Pads, Compounds, Polishes, Wax, clay bar, etc)

Problem I have. Car looks great from a few feet away, but closer inspection shows light scratches all over the car. Im not sure if I had a dirty claybar? Dirty MF rag? dirty shammy? But its driving me insane. :)

I need a solution. I am by no means a professional and am looking for advice. I want to get rid of these fine scratches. I cant feel them with my finger, but no polishes or waxes have been able to correct the issue. Thus why I am looking for a more powerful ROB, bads, chemicals etc.

For now I have been using a local detail shop to supply myself with my chemicals

Detail Supply Warehouse

The polishes and waxes seem to do a great job on the paint, but dont have the experience to remove the scratches...they are all over the car. They dont seem to be a swirling patter either....mostly NSEW...which makes me think claybar.

Help me pick out a buffer Kit and chemicals that will help me remove the scratches....but also want advice on week to week cleaning. This car is a daily driver BUT I show it on the weekends and want it looking fantastic.

Any and all advice is appreciated.

pics of the car for your enjoyment:

3960954205_ff44d66820.jpg


3961653532_d2107c80ba.jpg


3961656486_0564d4c2ee.jpg


3961729156_2e8c5e3b45.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2488/3960954205_ff44d66820.jpg
 
You guys are welcome to treat me as though Im a 5yr old and instruct me. Im not affraid to swollow my pride and say.....I need some step by step instructions :)

Never have used Pads before...just used bonnets to apply polishes and waxes with the Craftsman orbital.

Ive been watching videos on youtube....and reading articles...as well as searching this site to soak up as much information as possible on the "proper technique". I understand that a ROB is pretty safe on the paint and you really cant go wrong if you have the right buffer. BUT the pad and product are very important.

This is where i need some direction as well. Which pads for which scenarios? How frequent can I use these products? Which products to use? How should I apply them? etc etc

Sorry for all the Noob Questions. Im just pretty excited about getting serious with my daily driver. I like to show it and am very proud of it. So I want to make sure Im keeping her paint looking great.
 
I would go with the Griot's da. And the WG twins are a great polish combo
A few org/white pads. Maybe a gray to finish and you be set
 
I would go with the Griot's da. And the WG twins are a great polish combo
A few org/white pads. Maybe a gray to finish and you be set

Ok had to look up what WG was... DOH!

Wolfgang Car Care Products


When you say Twins? What are you refering to? Sorry for the trivial question.
 
WG TSR/FG Follow the link...(May even consider following up the WG FG with Menzerna 85rd for even a better finish). Typically twins refers to a more abrasive polish followed by a finishing polish (of the same brand).

Wolfgang 16 oz. Swirl Remover Combo, Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, Wolfgang polishes


Thanks for the advice :dblthumb2: And thats a nice 09' you have there. I have heard good things about the Menzerna product name. Just havent desyphered what each product does for the paint and what products to use in combination, with what pad ect
 
one word on a polisher.

Flex


Would love to purchase the flex as I have heard amazing things about it, but $300 for a polisher just doesnt compute with me.

My mentality was spring for the Griot, pads, chemicals, etc for now and purchase a High Speed Dewalt or Mikita down the road. That way I have the best of both worlds and come out cheaper in some cases than the Flex.

Could use the Griot for now to get out the light scratches and weekly maintanence....if for any reason I needed some major correction the Dewalt or Mikita could handle it and then polish it out with my ROB.

Does that make sense?
 
First off keep in mind that you are probably going to get a LOT of various opinions on buffers polishes, and LSP (Last Step Products meaning waxes and/or Sealants).
Everyone has their favorites and that's what they are going to recommend.
Bottom line really comes down to the fact that if you pick quality products and than take the time and effort to practuce using them and get to know how they work best you will get excellent results. Product brands are secondary to proper prepping of the paint and knowing how to work and use the products you choose.

Having said that... I'll mention the products that *I* like. I like them, because I've used them enough to learn how to get the most out of them so they work well and I can achieve excellent results. At the same time, someone else with other products can achieve the same results assuming they know how to work with those other products just as well.

For buffers I use and like the Flex 3401 DA buffer. It's probably the best DA on the market although also the most expensive. Second behind the Flex is probably the Griots.

For Pads there are lots of choices. I use the Lake Country 6.5" CCS pads. Others prefer flat pads over the CCS type. Both can give you excellent results. My opinion is that mainly it comes down to personal preference and nothing more.
The Fles DA being a very powerful buffer can use the 6.5" pads well. The Griots is also pretty powerdul but not quite as much as the Flex so you might want to consider using 5.5" pads instead. The smaller pads will give you a little more aggressiveness compared to the larger pads and will make the Griots a bit more effiecient althjough the smaller pads mean it can take a little extra time to finish buffing the car (smaller pads mean a smaller area being worked on so it takes longer but the smaller area "concentrates" the buffers energy and power which is why the smaller pads make it a bit more efficient)

As for polishes and LSP's you have TONS of high quality choices between Menzerna, Wolfgang, XMT, Meguiar's, etc, etc, etc. the list is almost endless.
I tend to prefer and use the Mequairs Professional and Detailer lines of products. For compounds/polishes I think it's real tough to beat the M105/M205 combination.
For A really nice wax I use the Megs #26. If you like a Paint Sealant instead I use the M21 a lot.
On my show car I actually use the M21 sealant than top it with the #26 wax.

Now others will reply here to your question and say how they love the Menzerna polishes or they prefer the Wolfgang LSP's or they prefer the Edge brand of pads, etc and that's fine too.

My recommendation is to choose SOMETHING and simply learn to use it to get the best results and as long as you chose quality products and you learn how to user them properly you will make you car look great and you will be happy.

As Mike Phillips is find of saying... "Pick something you like and use it often"
 
I would go with the Griot's da. And the WG twins are a great polish combo
A few org/white pads. Maybe a gray to finish and you be set

I am going to second High End Detail. This is a good setup to use for a beginner based upon your needs.

I have the Flex, but based on your monetary considerations the Griots will work great for you.

2-3 Orange, 2-3 White and a finishing pad should do you well if you want to go with the CCS pads. The new Hydro Tech work well also and you would go 2-3 Tangerine, 2-3 Cyan and a finishing pad.

You will get as many polish recommendations here as people who post. The Megs 105/205 combo are great. I don't usually recommend them to Noobs (others will and I am not disparaging them at all) because they break down to dust. Once you get rid of the lubrication it becomes a little more likely to introduce swirls yourself.

I really like the WG twins since I tried them at AutoGeek Detailing class. They give you just about unlimited polishing time so less to worry about for a newbie. Will the 105/205 combo work better for intermediate and experienced folks ... maybe yes. But the WG twins really are fool proof.

Get something to clean the pads and you are ready to go. I think everyone is going to assume that you have enough MF, use the 2 bucket method, etc.

Good luck with whatever you choose. Post some pictures and let us know how it goes. Would love to see some DoDo Juice Orange Crush on that car of yours!
 
Barry,

Great post! I wish I could justify the Flex right. The griots will have to do I guess. Is there that much difference between the Flex and Griots? If I spend a little more time with the Griots with a 5.5'' pad...will that compare?

I appreciate your honesty Barry and I hope to find a product and combinations that work well for me.

I am open to other suggestions and combinations....will have to do some thinking
 
I am going to second High End Detail. This is a good setup to use for a beginner based upon your needs.

I have the Flex, but based on your monetary considerations the Griots will work great for you.

2-3 Orange, 2-3 White and a finishing pad should do you well if you want to go with the CCS pads. The new Hydro Tech work well also and you would go 2-3 Tangerine, 2-3 Cyan and a finishing pad.

You will get as many polish recommendations here as people who post. The Megs 105/205 combo are great. I don't usually recommend them to Noobs (others will and I am not disparaging them at all) because they break down to dust. Once you get rid of the lubrication it becomes a little more likely to introduce swirls yourself.

I really like the WG twins since I tried them at AutoGeek Detailing class. They give you just about unlimited polishing time so less to worry about for a newbie. Will the 105/205 combo work better for intermediate and experienced folks ... maybe yes. But the WG twins really are fool proof.

Get something to clean the pads and you are ready to go. I think everyone is going to assume that you have enough MF, use the 2 bucket method, etc.

Good luck with whatever you choose. Post some pictures and let us know how it goes. Would love to see some DoDo Juice Orange Crush on that car of yours!

I am far from a noob when it comes to following instructions hehe does that count? I have a lot of car products in my garage and have been a religious detailer of my own rides for along time. I am patient and I will take my time to get it right....so Im not too affraid to go straight to the better stuff. If I were told how to use it, I would follow it to a "T". I hope that college degree did something for me hehe

As for MF...I do have a lot of MF towels. I purchased them from an Autoparts store here locally. Not sure what blend they are....there are no tags on them and I didnt pay attention when I ripped open the bag.

QUESTION about MF. I have read of different teqniques when washing. I might need to throw mine away. I did wash them all together (nothing else in the washer). I put it on Cold/Cold and threw on detergent (No Fabric softener) on top of the towels before they were soaked. I then dried them in the dryer on high heat. After reading this was a no no I think. Should I toss them? or rewash? if so what do you recommend to wash with and what process?
 
Also is there a Griot Kit that you would recommend? Something that would encompass all that I would need? Or should I build my own?

Also on the MF...what is the 2 bucket system?
 
Barry,

Great post! I wish I could justify the Flex right. The griots will have to do I guess. Is there that much difference between the Flex and Griots? If I spend a little more time with the Griots with a 5.5'' pad...will that compare?

I appreciate your honesty Barry and I hope to find a product and combinations that work well for me.

I am open to other suggestions and combinations....will have to do some thinking

if you don't want to spend the money for the Flex than the Griots would be your next best choice. The single biggest difference is simply that the flex has a bit more power but as I explained earlier that would be the main reason to go with the smaller 5.5" pads with the Griots.
It may take you an extra hour or maybe two to do the buffing on your car with the Griots and 5.5" pads vs the Flex with the 6.5" pads but as a weekend detailer or enthusiasts detailer who cares.
For me, time is money when doing customers cars but for you an extra hour or two shouldn't make a difference on your own car and yes, with the Griots, proper pads and quality products, and a bit of practice, and you will get excellent results - easily results that will compare to someone using a Flex.


BTW, nice looking car - even if it IS a Mustang. :poke:
sorry, I'm a vette guy so I had to slip that jab in. :laughing:
 
if you don't want to spend the money for the Flex than the Griots would be your next best choice. The single biggest difference is simply that the flex has a bit more power but as I explained earlier that would be the main reason to go with the smaller 5.5" pads with the Griots.
It may take you an extra hour or maybe two to do the buffing on your car with the Griots and 5.5" pads vs the Flex with the 6.5" pads but as a weekend detailer or enthusiasts detailer who cares.
For me, time is money when doing customers cars but for you an extra hour or two shouldn't make a difference on your own car and yes, with the Griots, proper pads and quality products, and a bit of practice, and you will get excellent results - easily results that will compare to someone using a Flex.


BTW, nice looking car - even if it IS a Mustang. :poke:
sorry, I'm a vette guy so I had to slip that jab in. :laughing:

:iagree:

Polishing I have found to be a lot like magic. In that the magic lies not within the magicians wand but within the hands of the magician performing the trick. With proper preparation and attention to detail you will be just fine. True the Flex will get the job done quicker but yours is not a job born out of economic necessity. Your job is in fact a labor of love.
I just love the color of your pony and can't wait till you post some more pics.
GOOD LUCK and have fun!!!:buffing:
 
If you guys were to pick detail supplys from scratch from a start to finish detail...which would U use?

My thoughts:

1)Need to wash the car with some kind of soap (Suggestions)
-Ive also heard of P21S for a cleaner?

2)Going to dry with a leaf blower (need a drying towel suggestion)

3)Next is the clay bar (suggestions?) leaning towards pennicle green

4)Going with the Griots DA

5)Pad suggestions (I have some that prefer the Hydro and some the LC) Why do the hydro only have 2 options and the others about 6? Size of pad as been suggested 5.5'' but the backplate on the Griots is 6.5? right?

6)Deciding between the M105/205 and WGTSR-WGFG-WGPGS3.0?
-I read the WG products have less dust thus less possibly swirls due to my mistakes.

7)MF for taking off the polishes and waxes?

8)Final product after the sealant? Wax? What do you suggest?

Finally: Cleaning supplys? MF cleaner? Pad cleaner? Spur? suggestions please.

Thanks all for the help thus far!!


TO Barry---I actually love vettes as well. Buddy has a Black C6 that I am itching to drive. :dblthumb2:
 
Barry,

Great post! I wish I could justify the Flex right. The griots will have to do I guess. Is there that much difference between the Flex and Griots? If I spend a little more time with the Griots with a 5.5'' pad...will that compare?

I appreciate your honesty Barry and I hope to find a product and combinations that work well for me.

I am open to other suggestions and combinations....will have to do some thinking

If you guys were to pick detail supplys from scratch from a start to finish detail...which would U use?

My thoughts:

1)Need to wash the car with some kind of soap (Suggestions)
-Ive also heard of P21S for a cleaner?

2)Going to dry with a leaf blower (need a drying towel suggestion)

3)Next is the clay bar (suggestions?) leaning towards pennicle green

4)Going with the Griots DA

5)Pad suggestions (I have some that prefer the Hydro and some the LC) Why do the hydro only have 2 options and the others about 6? Size of pad as been suggested 5.5'' but the backplate on the Griots is 6.5? right?

6)Deciding between the M105/205 and WGTSR-WGFG-WGPGS3.0?
-I read the WG products have less dust thus less possibly swirls due to my mistakes.

7)MF for taking off the polishes and waxes?

8)Final product after the sealant? Wax? What do you suggest?

Finally: Cleaning supplys? MF cleaner? Pad cleaner? Spur? suggestions please.

Thanks all for the help thus far!!


TO Barry---I actually love vettes as well. Buddy has a Black C6 that I am itching to drive. :dblthumb2:

To chose actual products there are basically two points of view you may get here:
1. the hobbist/enthusiasts working on his/her own car because they enjoy it.
2. the professional who is doing is to make a living.

While both want to end up with the same excellent results they usually tend to choose different products as their standard "go-to" products.
As a professional detailer I need products that are not only going to help me achieve excellent end results but also that are cost effective and come in larger sized packaging (which also helps make them more cost effective).
I can be using $50 worth of products on a standard $175-$200 detail job or else between cost of products and other supplies, time, insurance, electricity, water, etc, etc I'd make no money.
A weekend hobbist detailer is typically more willing to spend higher money on what I tend to refer to as "boutique brand" detailing products. I'm not criticizing or saying anything bad about the more expensive boutique brand products but generally a pro detailer has other factors to consider that the enthusiast working on his/her own car doesn't.
This is a main reason that probably 80-85% of the various products on my shelf are from the Megs Professional and Detailer line. From one supplier I can cover the vast majority of the products I need and they are cost effective and work excellent.
A complete list of pretty much anything you need could come from these two lines from Megs such as shampoo, body solvent, clay, clay lube, compounds/polish, sealants and waxes, dressings, interior cleaners and dressings, leather cleaners, all purpose cleaners, etc, etc.
On the other hand you can pick and choose "favorites" from various different brands.

One recommendation I do have is not to get too carried away on super expensive LSP's (waxes and sealants). There are products out there that can really take a hit out of your wallet.
When comparing various priced products like waxes from a $20/bottle to a $300/bottle of wax 99% of the people in the world aren't going to be able to tell the differences anyway because IF there is a difference it's subtle between all the difference products.
I'm strongly of the opinion that 99% of your results come from all the steps PRIOR to the LSP. The better the car is washed, clayed and than polished to level the paint and remove defects such as swirls, minor scratches, etc is where your end results come from. The LSP step, in my opinion, is really nothing more than a layer of protection.
Others may disagree and tell you that this wax or that wax makes certain colors look better or make metallic flake "pop" better or other differences but again usually anything like this is very, very subtle. The LSP step is really all about protection - protecting the paint you just spent all day or all weekend washing, claying and correcting. Besides, even the mose expensive wax only lasts a relatively short amount of time (a few weeks in most cases or a few months for a sealant) which means you need to reapply it again often over the course of a year. If you hesitate to spend $300 on a Flex buffer that would last you years how do you really feel about buying a $70, $125, or $300 container of wax that you need to put on 3, 4, 5 times a year??!!
Personally, even on my own show car, my '65 vette, I am thrilled with the results I get from Megs M21 sealant topped with Megs #26 wax and neither are particularly expensive products.

Leaf blower is excellent for drying the car - it's whgat i use all the time and it saves the physical wiping of the car with a towel which helps keep swirls down to a minimum

For pads, like I said in a previous reply, flat or CCS type is a personal choice. I use the LC CCS and I'm happy with them. others use flat pads and like them.
If you want to try the CCS pads I'd recommend getting at least 3 of each of Orange ( cutting pad for compounding or more aggressive polishing), White (polishing pad for less aggressing or finishing polishing) and Blue for applying glazes and LSP's.
I usually use Orange with the Megs M105, White with the Megs M205, and than the Blue pads for LSP's

*** BTW since I see you are considering the M105/M205 combo which is excellent something to keep in mind... The m105 takes a bit of practice to get used to using because it tends to dry out and dust up fairly quickly. You may want to try the Megs Ultimate Compound (UC) instead of the M105. UC has almost the same level of cut ability as M105 but it's easier to work with because it gives you a longer working time without drying out compared to M105.
The M205 is very easy to work with

Last, don't forget a good Quick Detail spray.
I have 3 different ones I stock from Megs but my favorite as just a QD is the Final Inspection. I also use Last Touch since used straight it's a nice QD spray and used 1:1 with water makes a great clay lube


The C6 vettes are awesome, I love them. our vette club sponsoring dealer has lent me C6 Z06's numerous times for the weekend for shows and that is a real fun car to drive! I always hate having to return it.
Especially compared to my older vette (a '65) the difference is night and day - power, performance, handling, creature comforts, etc
 
Last edited:
To chose actual products there are basically two points of view you may get here:
1. the hobbist/enthusiasts working on his/her own car because they enjoy it.
2. the professional who is doing is to make a living.

While both want to end up with the same excellent results they usually tend to choose different products as their standard "go-to" products.
As a professional detailer I need products that are not only going to help me achieve excellent end results but also that are cost effective and come in larger sized packaging (which also helps make them more cost effective).
I can be using $50 worth of products on a standard $175-$200 detail job or else between cost of products and other supplies, time, insurance, electricity, water, etc, etc I'd make no money.
A weekend hobbist detailer is typically more willing to spend higher money on what I tend to refer to as "boutique brand" detailing products. I'm not criticizing or saying anything bad about the more expensive boutique brand products but generally a pro detailer has other factors to consider that the enthusiast working on his/her own car doesn't.
This is a main reason that probably 80-85% of the various products on my shelf are from the Megs Professional and Detailer line. From one supplier I can cover the vast majority of the products I need and they are cost effective and work excellent.
A complete list of pretty much anything you need could come from these two lines from Megs such as shampoo, body solvent, clay, clay lube, compounds/polish, sealants and waxes, dressings, interior cleaners and dressings, leather cleaners, all purpose cleaners, etc, etc.
On the other hand you can pick and choose "favorites" from various different brands.

One recommendation I do have is not to get too carried away on super expensive LSP's (waxes and sealants). There are products out there that can really take a hit out of your wallet.
When comparing various priced products like waxes from a $20/bottle to a $300/bottle of wax 99% of the people in the world aren't going to be able to tell the differences anyway because IF there is a difference it's subtle between all the difference products.
I'm strongly of the opinion that 99% of your results come from all the steps PRIOR to the LSP. The better the car is washed, clayed and than polished to level the paint and remove defects such as swirls, minor scratches, etc is where your end results come from. The LSP step, in my opinion, is really nothing more than a layer of protection.
Others may disagree and tell you that this wax or that wax makes certain colors look better or make metallic flake "pop" better or other differences but again usually anything like this is very, very subtle. The LSP step is really all about protection - protecting the paint you just spent all day or all weekend washing, claying and correcting. Besides, even the mose expensive wax only lasts a relatively short amount of time (a few weeks in most cases or a few months for a sealant) which means you need to reapply it again often over the course of a year. If you hesitate to spend $300 on a Flex buffer that would last you years how do you really feel about buying a $70, $125, or $300 container of wax that you need to put on 3, 4, 5 times a year??!!
Personally, even on my own show car, my '65 vette, I am thrilled with the results I get from Megs M21 sealant topped with Megs #26 wax and neither are particularly expensive products.

Leaf blower is excellent for drying the car - it's whgat i use all the time and it saves the physical wiping of the car with a towel which helps keep swirls down to a minimum

For pads, like I said in a previous reply, flat or CCS type is a personal choice. I use the LC CCS and I'm happy with them. others use flat pads and like them.
If you want to try the CCS pads I'd recommend getting at least 3 of each of Orange ( cutting pad for compounding or more aggressive polishing), White (polishing pad for less aggressing or finishing polishing) and Blue for applying glazes and LSP's.
I usually use Orange with the Megs M105, White with the Megs M205, and than the Blue pads for LSP's

*** BTW since I see you are considering the M105/M205 combo which is excellent something to keep in mind... The m105 takes a bit of practice to get used to using because it tends to dry out and dust up fairly quickly. You may want to try the Megs Ultimate Compound (UC) instead of the M105. UC has almost the same level of cut ability as M105 but it's easier to work with because it gives you a longer working time without drying out compared to M105.
The M205 is very easy to work with

Last, don't forget a good Quick Detail spray.
I have 3 different ones I stock from Megs but my favorite as just a QD is the Final Inspection. I also use Last Touch since used straight it's a nice QD spray and used 1:1 with water makes a great clay lube


The C6 vettes are awesome, I love them. our vette club sponsoring dealer has lent me C6 Z06's numerous times for the weekend for shows and that is a real fun car to drive! I always hate having to return it.
Especially compared to my older vette (a '65) the difference is night and day - power, performance, handling, creature comforts, etc


Thanks for your prof opinion Barry. It definitely makes sense to separate the enthusiast from someone that does this for a living. I can see your point on product choice.

You had some very good suggestions and I will take what you said and run with it. Probably going to make my purchase this evening.

I thought I had completely convinced myself on the Griot....but I keep coming back to the Flex. Is the Flex really that much better than the Griots? I dont think I can justify the price to the Wife as of yet...but if its THAT MUCH BETTER, than it might be worth the arguement hehe

Thanks for all of your suggestions and knowledge. It is much appreciated sir :dblthumb2:

Seems there are a few of you on there that are seriously top knotch when it comes to helping someone that is classified as a NEWB.

Thanks again!!
 
Thanks for your prof opinion Barry. It definitely makes sense to separate the enthusiast from someone that does this for a living. I can see your point on product choice.

You had some very good suggestions and I will take what you said and run with it. Probably going to make my purchase this evening.

I thought I had completely convinced myself on the Griot....but I keep coming back to the Flex. Is the Flex really that much better than the Griots? I dont think I can justify the price to the Wife as of yet...but if its THAT MUCH BETTER, than it might be worth the arguement hehe

Thanks for all of your suggestions and knowledge. It is much appreciated sir :dblthumb2:

Seems there are a few of you on there that are seriously top knotch when it comes to helping someone that is classified as a NEWB.

Thanks again!!

Is the flex better? Yes.
BUT is it worth the difference in cost for YOU?

Again, it comes down to it's use. For me time is money so the Flex being more powerful allows me to finish jobs faster and still get excellent results.
for you the time factor on how long it takes to get your car done is most likely a secondary consideration so the Griots would be a good unit. The little bit less power the Griots has may take you an extra hour or two to finish your car but is that really a big deal for you?
And really, how many times a year are you really going to have to buff your car out?
I have to use my buffer every day. You are going to buff your car out once, maybe twice a year?

As much as i love my Flex buffer and always recommend it as a great option for people to consider for themselves if i was in your position i'd probably buy the Griots and use the money you save over the cost of the Flex and put it to other needed detailing supplies such as the pads, or polishes, or wheel brushes or MF towels, or whatever.
Believe me, after practice and getting to learn how to use it, you can still achieve the same excellent results with the Griots as you can with a Flex
 
Is the flex better? Yes.
BUT is it worth the difference in cost for YOU?

Again, it comes down to it's use. For me time is money so the Flex being more powerful allows me to finish jobs faster and still get excellent results.
for you the time factor on how long it takes to get your car done is most likely a secondary consideration so the Griots would be a good unit. The little bit less power the Griots has may take you an extra hour or two to finish your car but is that really a big deal for you?
And really, how many times a year are you really going to have to buff your car out?
I have to use my buffer every day. You are going to buff your car out once, maybe twice a year?

As much as i love my Flex buffer and always recommend it as a great option for people to consider for themselves if i was in your position i'd probably buy the Griots and use the money you save over the cost of the Flex and put it to other needed detailing supplies such as the pads, or polishes, or wheel brushes or MF towels, or whatever.
Believe me, after practice and getting to learn how to use it, you can still achieve the same excellent results with the Griots as you can with a Flex


You actually brought up a good point. You said that I may buff the car once or twice a year.

My question is....If I enjoy going to car shows and showing off the car every couple of weeks should I buff it before each show? My car is a daily driver and we live on the outskirts of the City and bugs can be a problem...as well as dirt and grime.

I want to have the car looking great for the car shows......is it not recommended to take the DA to the car twice a month? If not...what do you recommend?
 
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