I'd just like to solicit your opinions on this car washing advice I received back when I bought my black Camaro. A day or so after buying it, someone I thought that knew about cars told me that I should wash and wax it because dealerships tend to use cheap products. Well, I didn't really know how to properly wash a car at that point and I thought that he knew what he was talking about so I listened to his car washing advice. He told me to use a brush and dry it off with regular terry towels. Well, immediately afterwards I noticed a lot of new scratches in my paint. Now I've since discussed this matter with this person and instead of admitting to the possibility that he may not have given me the best advice, all he could say was I must have used the brush too vigorously. This is the first car I've owned that I care to maintain so until I found this site I never really knew how to properly wash a car so perhaps I was too vigorous with the brush. I ask you though, is that how you would wash or advise someone (who doesn't know cars by the way) to wash a black 2010 Camaro? Thanks for your input.
Your opinion on this car washing advice
- Thread starter mcpp66
- Start date
CEE DOG
New member
- Jul 12, 2009
- 7,358
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Sorry to hear about your scratches! No terry towels for me when drying. What kind of brush? I have a feeling it wasn't a paint safe brush... Hindsight is 20/20. I've had some pretty rotten advice from people in my life. I don't follow advice from just one person on something I don't know about unless I can logically verify what they tell me. Thanks to the internet you can now learn about anything but you have to sift through the 40% BS people say.
When I was about 15 I saved up enough money to put a down payment on this new moped to get me to and from work so I wouldn't have to bus it or ride a bike. Well it was pretty fancy and expensive. About a week or 2 into owning it I had to add some ratio of gas and oil. My dad "helped" me and I thought my dad would know better then me. Well to make a long story short he told me to use the opposite ratio............... A very sad engine... That was that. I pushed it more often then it ran for awhile. Then back to the bicycle. Well I still owed a lot of money on that puppy and I paid it off as soon as I could but that stung! I think that was the last time I seriously took someones advice without veryfing it or figuring it out for myself.
Wow, I just meant to tell you sorry about your paint but that memory from long ago popped up and I thought I'd share
Good luck getting your paint straightened out and try not to let it get you down. It's in the past now. Now you know and can do something about it from here on.
When I was about 15 I saved up enough money to put a down payment on this new moped to get me to and from work so I wouldn't have to bus it or ride a bike. Well it was pretty fancy and expensive. About a week or 2 into owning it I had to add some ratio of gas and oil. My dad "helped" me and I thought my dad would know better then me. Well to make a long story short he told me to use the opposite ratio............... A very sad engine... That was that. I pushed it more often then it ran for awhile. Then back to the bicycle. Well I still owed a lot of money on that puppy and I paid it off as soon as I could but that stung! I think that was the last time I seriously took someones advice without veryfing it or figuring it out for myself.
Wow, I just meant to tell you sorry about your paint but that memory from long ago popped up and I thought I'd share
Good luck getting your paint straightened out and try not to let it get you down. It's in the past now. Now you know and can do something about it from here on.
MikeyC
Member
- Mar 7, 2006
- 886
- 0
The only kind of brush you should ever let touch your car's paint is a boar's hair brush.
I will say though it's possible that those scratches (or at least some of them) were there all along. Many dealers prep cars with polishes that contain a lot of fillers. The first time it rains or you wash the car they all wash away and you see all the scratches.
I will say though it's possible that those scratches (or at least some of them) were there all along. Many dealers prep cars with polishes that contain a lot of fillers. The first time it rains or you wash the car they all wash away and you see all the scratches.
ScottB
New member
- Mar 3, 2006
- 18,803
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There are specific brushes that are ok for cash washing, often made of Boars Hair. Not my choice but certainly the best option if wanting/needing a brush.
You should consider washing with two buckets. One soap and one rinse water only. You wash each panel, then rinse mitt/towel before next panel. Dump/replace rinse water at 1/2 point.
Then consider drying with a blower. Leave a little dampness and then spritz with quick detailer and wipe to remove any spotting. Quick detailer adds lubrication to avoid swirls and scratches.
You should consider washing with two buckets. One soap and one rinse water only. You wash each panel, then rinse mitt/towel before next panel. Dump/replace rinse water at 1/2 point.
Then consider drying with a blower. Leave a little dampness and then spritz with quick detailer and wipe to remove any spotting. Quick detailer adds lubrication to avoid swirls and scratches.
- Thread starter
- #7
So basically even the best brush for car washing is something you'd avoid.
sullysdetailing
New member
- Mar 7, 2009
- 1,963
- 0
Watch some of these videos:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-videos/20122-video-wheel-cleaning.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-videos/20124-video-car-interior-cleaning.html
Read this:
Car Wash Guide, Car Wash how to - easy steps to shampoo and dry your vehicle using paint-safe mitts and towels, plus sponges, the Grit Guard and
Auto detailing clay, detail clay bar, clay lubricant, Pinnacle Poly Clay, Wolfgang, auto detail clay, meguiar's detailing clay, auto clay bar
Car Wax & Paint Sealant Application Techniques, how to apply wax & paint sealant by hand or polisher, how to apply wax, how to wax a car
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-videos/20122-video-wheel-cleaning.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-videos/20124-video-car-interior-cleaning.html
Read this:
Car Wash Guide, Car Wash how to - easy steps to shampoo and dry your vehicle using paint-safe mitts and towels, plus sponges, the Grit Guard and
Auto detailing clay, detail clay bar, clay lubricant, Pinnacle Poly Clay, Wolfgang, auto detail clay, meguiar's detailing clay, auto clay bar
Car Wax & Paint Sealant Application Techniques, how to apply wax & paint sealant by hand or polisher, how to apply wax, how to wax a car
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks man. Actually I've already watched all of those links. I just wanted to get some feedback so I can print this page and take it to my idiot brother that gave me that car washing advice so I can show him how bad it was. He refuses to acknowledge any problems with how he told me to wash the car.
DARK HORSE
Active member
- Sep 14, 2009
- 2,537
- 0
This is not intended to tell anyone how or what they should be doing; it is just sharing with you what I do. Here is an excerpt from my detailing notes. I know there are a lot of different techniques and products out there and I'm sure most work very well too. This is just what works for me on my black "09" Mustang.
Car Wash Procedure
Wash in the shade when it is cool out! RINSE, RINSE,RINSE your mitts, tools etc. often!!
Use a quality car wash soap (only)
(Don't use hot water it will soften wax. Don’t use dish washing soap it will strip off the wax)
1. First do under all the wheel wells with a high pressure nozzle to break the crud loose. If the wheel well require an oil and grease cleaner, spray the cleaner on, scrub it with a brush (brush is ok here only) and then use another shot from a high pressure nozzle. After the wheel wells are done, remove the high pressure nozzle. For the rest of the wash use a steady stream directly from the hose, a high pressure nozzle can damage paint. (IMO) Next clean the wheels with car wash soap, and an older mitt, and bucket dedicated to “tires and wheels only”. Two to three times a year, use a wheel cleaner product. If you decide to use a wheel cleaner, get the right one for your wheels. Chrome, steel, and roughcast aluminum wheels typically require a different type of cleaner than polished aluminum, etc. The label on the cleaner will state which application is correct. The wrong product may etch your wheels, so be careful. Work one wheel at a time. Drench the wheel with water, and then either use the mitt to apply the soap, or mist the wheel with the wheel cleaner. Immediately start washing the wheel and finish as soon as possible. Don't let the soap dry. Rinse the wheels thoroughly after each cleaning. Then clean the tires with soapy water and a tire brush, rinse immediately (don’t let soap dry)
2. Rinse vehicle from the top down thoroughly with cold water from the hose. Use 2 quality sheepskin wash mitts (one for top surface panels and one for bottom surface panels) dedicated only to the painted surfaces of the car, and two five-gallon buckets (with grit guards) labeled “Painted Surfaces Only”. This is the “Two Bucket Method"; it involves using two car wash buckets, each with a Grit Guard. The first bucket is filled with clean water and labeled “For Rinse Only” and the second bucket is filled with clean water and car wash soap and is labeled “For Wash Only”. Dunk your wash mitt into the soapy car wash solution and gently glide the mitt over the vehicle in straight lines following the direction air flows over the panel. Be sure to start at the top and work your way down. DO NOT SCRUB. Allow the soap solution to do its job. Dunk the mitt vigorously into the bucket with clear water to rinse the mitt thoroughly. DO THIS OFTEN!! at least every panel! Rinse each section of the car immediately after washing it. Do this in sections starting with the roof, and then rinse; next move to the hood and then rinse; nose and then rinse; front fenders and then rinse; doors and then rinse; rear glass, rear fenders, rear lights and bumper. Every time a body panel is finished, rinse that body panel AND THE MITT. (RINSE, RINSE, RINSE)
Once you have washed and rinsed each section; do a final rinse using only the steady flow of water from the hose. Start at the top and you will notice the water sheet right off of your car. This floods the vehicle surface and by providing more water volume, you allow gravity to pull the water down and off your car.
Drying Procedure
Use a leaf blower and quality microfiber WW .
Blow from the top down with a leaf blower. Make sure it’s new and never been used to suck. Let it run for a few seconds before aiming it at the car. Be careful that you do not point it at the ground!! After using the leaf blower, mist the car one panel at a time with FK-425 and blot dry to remove and residual water or water spots.
Microfiber Towel Dry
*See Notes section (CD Scratch Test) for using a new towel. Always wash microfibers prior to use.
Only use designated microfiber waffle weave drying towels; Use QD with them for lube. Put the microfiber towel out flat on the car and blot it dry. Do not pull it or rub it around, only blot the car dry. (Never use it when it’s dry as it can potentially scratch). When the only thing left on the surface are tiny micro beads of water (really noticeable on a black car), wipe them off with a QD (FK-425) and a pass or two of the waffle towel to leave the surface bone dry. This drying technique is excellent for black cars. This process never includes scrubbing, rubbing or applying any pressure whatsoever. The only time that pressure needs to be applied to a paint surface is when you are polishing
Most importantly when drying; the car should be clean. If any dirt is wedged between the towel and the car it will scratch the paint. These minute scratches usually aren't noticed immediately.
If you drop the towel on the ground, get a new one before continuing to dry the car.
If any water spots are noticed after drying go onto Water spot removal section now. If no spots are visible continue on:
Tire Dressing Procedure
Apply tire dressing with designated foam tire applicator in multiple coats. VERY THIN coats to help prevent slinging
Car Wash Procedure
Wash in the shade when it is cool out! RINSE, RINSE,RINSE your mitts, tools etc. often!!
Use a quality car wash soap (only)
(Don't use hot water it will soften wax. Don’t use dish washing soap it will strip off the wax)
1. First do under all the wheel wells with a high pressure nozzle to break the crud loose. If the wheel well require an oil and grease cleaner, spray the cleaner on, scrub it with a brush (brush is ok here only) and then use another shot from a high pressure nozzle. After the wheel wells are done, remove the high pressure nozzle. For the rest of the wash use a steady stream directly from the hose, a high pressure nozzle can damage paint. (IMO) Next clean the wheels with car wash soap, and an older mitt, and bucket dedicated to “tires and wheels only”. Two to three times a year, use a wheel cleaner product. If you decide to use a wheel cleaner, get the right one for your wheels. Chrome, steel, and roughcast aluminum wheels typically require a different type of cleaner than polished aluminum, etc. The label on the cleaner will state which application is correct. The wrong product may etch your wheels, so be careful. Work one wheel at a time. Drench the wheel with water, and then either use the mitt to apply the soap, or mist the wheel with the wheel cleaner. Immediately start washing the wheel and finish as soon as possible. Don't let the soap dry. Rinse the wheels thoroughly after each cleaning. Then clean the tires with soapy water and a tire brush, rinse immediately (don’t let soap dry)
2. Rinse vehicle from the top down thoroughly with cold water from the hose. Use 2 quality sheepskin wash mitts (one for top surface panels and one for bottom surface panels) dedicated only to the painted surfaces of the car, and two five-gallon buckets (with grit guards) labeled “Painted Surfaces Only”. This is the “Two Bucket Method"; it involves using two car wash buckets, each with a Grit Guard. The first bucket is filled with clean water and labeled “For Rinse Only” and the second bucket is filled with clean water and car wash soap and is labeled “For Wash Only”. Dunk your wash mitt into the soapy car wash solution and gently glide the mitt over the vehicle in straight lines following the direction air flows over the panel. Be sure to start at the top and work your way down. DO NOT SCRUB. Allow the soap solution to do its job. Dunk the mitt vigorously into the bucket with clear water to rinse the mitt thoroughly. DO THIS OFTEN!! at least every panel! Rinse each section of the car immediately after washing it. Do this in sections starting with the roof, and then rinse; next move to the hood and then rinse; nose and then rinse; front fenders and then rinse; doors and then rinse; rear glass, rear fenders, rear lights and bumper. Every time a body panel is finished, rinse that body panel AND THE MITT. (RINSE, RINSE, RINSE)
Once you have washed and rinsed each section; do a final rinse using only the steady flow of water from the hose. Start at the top and you will notice the water sheet right off of your car. This floods the vehicle surface and by providing more water volume, you allow gravity to pull the water down and off your car.
Drying Procedure
Use a leaf blower and quality microfiber WW .
Blow from the top down with a leaf blower. Make sure it’s new and never been used to suck. Let it run for a few seconds before aiming it at the car. Be careful that you do not point it at the ground!! After using the leaf blower, mist the car one panel at a time with FK-425 and blot dry to remove and residual water or water spots.
Microfiber Towel Dry
*See Notes section (CD Scratch Test) for using a new towel. Always wash microfibers prior to use.
Only use designated microfiber waffle weave drying towels; Use QD with them for lube. Put the microfiber towel out flat on the car and blot it dry. Do not pull it or rub it around, only blot the car dry. (Never use it when it’s dry as it can potentially scratch). When the only thing left on the surface are tiny micro beads of water (really noticeable on a black car), wipe them off with a QD (FK-425) and a pass or two of the waffle towel to leave the surface bone dry. This drying technique is excellent for black cars. This process never includes scrubbing, rubbing or applying any pressure whatsoever. The only time that pressure needs to be applied to a paint surface is when you are polishing
Most importantly when drying; the car should be clean. If any dirt is wedged between the towel and the car it will scratch the paint. These minute scratches usually aren't noticed immediately.
If you drop the towel on the ground, get a new one before continuing to dry the car.
If any water spots are noticed after drying go onto Water spot removal section now. If no spots are visible continue on:
Tire Dressing Procedure
Apply tire dressing with designated foam tire applicator in multiple coats. VERY THIN coats to help prevent slinging
Last edited:
ScottB
New member
- Mar 3, 2006
- 18,803
- 0
personally, yes ! Even with our SRX I went out and bought a ladder for roof cleaning purposes. As with any brush it comes down to how its cleaned ?? How often its recleaned ?? How is it is stored ?? And whats the shelve life of bristles ??
Wax Gorilla
New member
- Jul 27, 2009
- 448
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I like to even add a third bucket (2nd Rinse Bucket)! and I always do Wheels first and then start over with all containers cleaned before doing other surfaces !
AudiTTman
New member
- Nov 11, 2008
- 566
- 0
well you already have great advice already on this thread(which is excellent) so i just will give a quick tip i follow. The less you actually have to touch the surface of your car, the fewer swirls, minor scratches and micro marring you will have( common sense). Just treat the car paint and clear coat like babies skin when it comes to washing. That along with the procedures above will solve all your washing problems