Proper Jeweling Technique?

M

mcpp66

New member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
1,308
Reaction score
0
What is the proper way to jewel your car and when in the wash and wax process does it need done? Here's what I think, please correct when and where necessary:

1. Wash the car
2. Use a DA as necessary to remove paint defects
3. Do an IPA wipe down to ensure the polish isn't merely filling the defect
4. Jewel the paint
5. Wash the car again to rid it of any polishing dust and residue
6. Use a wax or paint sealant

Does that properly summarize the appropriate order of the necessary steps?

Now, how do you exactly jewel the paint? I'm assuming a finishing polish such as 85rd would be appropriate. I also have gold Lake Country foam pads. What speed would you use on your DA? Are 2' X 2' section passes appropriate? Do you work the polish in the paint till it hazes? How do you know when you are done? Thanks.
 
mcpp66 said:
What is the proper way to jewel your car and when in the wash and wax process does it need done? Here's what I think, please correct when and where necessary:

1. Wash the car
2. Use a DA as necessary to remove paint defects
3. Do an IPA wipe down to ensure the polish isn't merely filling the defect
4. Jewel the paint
5. Wash the car again to rid it of any polishing dust and residue
6. Use a wax or paint sealant

Does that properly summarize the appropriate order of the necessary steps?

Now, how do you exactly jewel the paint? I'm assuming a finishing polish such as 85rd would be appropriate. I also have gold Lake Country foam pads. What speed would you use on your DA? Are 2' X 2' section passes appropriate? Do you work the polish in the paint till it hazes? How do you know when you are done? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Don't forget to clay the paint. I think the gold is a little to soft to break down the 85rd. Remember it's still a polish and needs to be broken down before it dries out. Black or blue pads are finishing pads with no cut. Speed 6 on a 2X2 section until transparent.
 
Rsurfer has you covered.

Also I found this comment from a search. This was a comment killrwheels made in a previous post about jeweling. "... using either a blue pad will work. This is after using the various pads and polish until paint is spectacular first. I still use the higher speed but no real pressure."

I think he meant to say "....black or blue pad...."

I will be adding jeweling to my process for the first time when I polish Sky this month. I will be using Menzerna 85RD with the black pad but I will probably try the blue pad on half of the car to see what I can see.
 
Rsurfer said:
Don't forget to clay the paint. I think the gold is a little to soft to break down the 85rd. Remember it's still a polish and needs to be broken down before it dries out. Black or blue pads are finishing pads with no cut. Speed 6 on a 2X2 section until transparent.
Click to expand...

Well, in my case it's almost a new car, not even 1000 miles yet so I was thinking claying's not even necessary, or were you just including that as a general step. My paint feels smooth so that's why I'm thinking clay's not going to be necessary yet. Just to be clear though, when you guys say black pad do you mean the gray pad? The Web site calls it a gray pad and I'm not seeing a black pad anywhere in the store?
 
Yes, grey pads (what Rsurfer was mentioning as black) work well with 85rd in my experience. Blue pads work well too but sometimes feel as if their softer composition works against them under certain situations and areas. Either way, keep the pressure light but you can use additional pressure in the beginning to get rid of very light marring and make sure the last passes are basically under the weight of the machine only.
 
mcpp66 said:
Well, in my case it's almost a new car, not even 1000 miles yet so I was thinking claying's not even necessary, or were you just including that as a general step. My paint feels smooth so that's why I'm thinking clay's not going to be necessary yet. Just to be clear though, when you guys say black pad do you mean the gray pad? The Web site calls it a gray pad and I'm not seeing a black pad anywhere in the store?
Click to expand...

I would recommend, if you have never done it on this car before, to clay it. Most new cars are still transported by trains and get rail dust in the clear coat. A finer clay like Pinnacle will help removing this prior to polishing.
 
Tex said:
I would recommend, if you have never done it on this car before, to clay it. Most new cars are still transported by trains and get rail dust in the clear coat. A finer clay like Pinnacle will help removing this prior to polishing.
Click to expand...
:props:
:iagree:Get a zip lock bag, put your fingers in it and gently stroke your hood/fender. 9 chances out of 10 you will feel grit.
 
Just wanted to back up Tex and Rsurfer.
Go ahead and clay it, then start your polishing. This is on a Black 2010 Camaro, right?

DLB
 
DLB said:
Just wanted to back up Tex and Rsurfer.
Go ahead and clay it, then start your polishing. This is on a Black 2010 Camaro, right?

DLB
Click to expand...

Yup! I already ran my hand (without a ziplock) over the hood and it didn't feel gritty at all. But, better to be safe then sorry. Do different clays have different levels of aggressiveness like polishes do or all they all the same?
 
Different levels of aggresiveness-I have tried 2 different clays so I am certainly no expert but I like the DP. Here is my review: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/20889-review-dp-universal-detailing-clay.html

And pinnacle-xmt-speed-clay review from DLB http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/22165-page-ranking-pinnacle-xmt-speed-clay.html

And pinnacle ultra poly clay review from supercharged http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-product-review-pinnacle-ultra-poly-clay.html
 
Last edited:
Rsurfer said:
Don't forget to clay the paint. I think the gold is a little to soft to break down the 85rd. Remember it's still a polish and needs to be broken down before it dries out. Black or blue pads are finishing pads with no cut. Speed 6 on a 2X2 section until transparent.
Click to expand...
I have ZERO experience with the gold pads but I'm surprised by your statement as the gold pads are described as "jewelling" pads on the AG store site.
 
MikeyC said:
I have ZERO experience with the gold pads but I'm surprised by your statement as the gold pads are described as "jewelling" pads on the AG store site.
Click to expand...
Well I do have the gold pad and still perfer the black/blue pads. Don't take my word for it, buy the gold and use it, you might like it.
 
Rsurfer said:
Well I do have the gold pad and still perfer the black/blue pads. Don't take my word for it, buy the gold and use it, you might like it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the clarification. You just saved me a couple $$.
 
MikeyC said:
I have ZERO experience with the gold pads but I'm surprised by your statement as the gold pads are described as "jewelling" pads on the AG store site.
Click to expand...

IMO he's right in that the gold pads are a bit soft to jewel with a DA. With a rotary, they work great.
 
As a new guy to some of the terminology; what does "Jeweling the finish or technique" mean?

Don't be afraid to elaborate!

Bob
 
BobbyG said:
As a new guy to some of the terminology; what does "Jeweling the finish or technique" mean?

Don't be afraid to elaborate!

Bob
Click to expand...

The term "Jeweling" the paint means that after you polish out the defects and get the paint how corrected you want it you hit the paint with a very soft pad and a light polish that will just shine the paint up (ex SSR1 or Pro Polish, I even use Polish with Sealant) so you get a clearer shinier and deeper looking finish. Than top it with your LSP.
 
Claying is necessary if it sat one day on a dealers lot or travel to your house more than 1 mile !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top