Do I need to wash my car after I use detailing clay to clay the paint?

Is the squeak test a good procedure to use in order to determine if the paint is really bare? Is it a reliable way to determine if anything is on the paint surface?

Kind of or not really, to me it's a non-issue... it doesn't affect what I'm going to do next. Seriously, lets look at the big picture, you're going to wax your car, before you wax it you're going to wash it to remove loose dirt and then clay it to remove above surface bonded contaminants, after that no matter if you finger squeaks on the paint or not, you're still going to wax the car.

It's kind of back to making things that are very simple over complicated.



When you mention that the first step after claying will remove anything left on the surface, do you mean any machine polishing with a pre-wax cleaner, or any mild abrasive polish in general will remove any residue that will still be on the paint?

Yes.

If after washing and claying you're going to use a swirl mark remover to remove swirls and scratches, anything that's strong enough or abrasive enough to remove a little paint off the surface is going to obliterate any wax or paint sealant available to the public.

Would soaking the car in something like an APC or a degreaser after claying also work?

I think that would be extreme overkill and something I would never personally do for the process you're describing. That would be another good example of complicated a normally very simple process.

In my dampsanding article I describe wiping the paint clean with a wax remover for the express purpose of removing anything off the paint before sanding just so that you bet the most use out of your sanding discs and because the manufacture of the sanding discs recommends this. Note this recommendation is for the reconditioning world, (detailing cars), not the refinishing world as in the refinishing world you would be working on fresh paint, in the reconditioning world you can have all kinds of "protection ingredients" on the surface and you don't want these loading up on your sanding papers and diminishing their effectiveness.

It's not a huge issue, just a precautionary step due to the price of premium quality sanding discs.


Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips


Mike Phillips said:
Chemically Strip Paint
Chemically stripping the paint will remove waxes, paint sealants, silicones, polymers and any other substance off the finish that washing will not remove and was not removed by the claying process. Detailing clay will actually remove a lot of any substances bonded to the upper surface of the paint, including waxes and paint sealants, but under a microscope paint is not completely flat, it's made up of hills and valleys, pockets and pores, surface imperfections and interstices.

Interstices = Microscopic cracks and fissures.


Remember, a lot of modern car wax and paint sealant products are detergent resistant so washing won't alway remove 100% of any previously applied wax or paint sealant coating.

Important: You don’t want any chemical substance bonded onto the surface to come off while sanding as it can interfere with the cutting process, load up on the face of our sanding disc and cause your disc to wear-out prematurely.

Common products for chemically stripping the finish include Prep-All, Orderless Mineral Spirits, Automotive All Purpose Cleaners, Isopropyl Alcohol.

You can dampen a microfiber towel and wipe the surface clean or use a spray bottle with a chemical resistant spray head to spray directly onto the surface and then wipe the paint dry using clean microfiber towels.


Prep-All
DampSanding31.jpg






You can do what you want, it's your car, your time and your dime, but washing and waxing your car shouldn't be rocket science, in fact if at all possible it should be enjoyable.


:xyxthumbs:
 
I was mainly concerned with the residue remaining from the clay bar lubricant soaking into the polishing pads and reducing the abrasiveness of the polish itself.

Worst case I can wipe the panel with mineral spirits or IPA before polishing.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us once again, it's much appreciated.

:)
 
Need some quick answers..... I had to take my car to the coin-op today (hand-held pressure type wash) and was able to dry it in the bay as they weren't busy.
So, naturally I have to drive it home a few miles..... I just did the baggie test (no, not the baggie with dope) and need to clay my car.
So, the question, should I clay it in sections and wipe it dry/clean, then use a waterless wash before doing any paint correction? Or will just claying in sections and drying/cleaning with a really good MF towel be enough before applying any paint-correction products?
Thanks in advance.
--Shagnat
 
I've tried petty much all combinations and the method I find easiest is to wash, rinse, and then use a fresh bucket of warm water with either CG Honeydew soap or DG901 to lube and clay each panel one by one, rinse, dry, and then continue on with the paintwork. I find this method to be the most efficient and least time consuming way to clay.

I don't care much for using detailer spray for claying. My reasoning is that the detailer spray adds a layer (albeit a thin one) of protection which one would have to work through to get to the actual paint work. I like to be right on the paint when I start buffing or polishin. Saves pads, product, and time in my opinion. :-)
 
Years ago I washed after claying but now I find myself just hitting it with rinse-less wash and wipe off gently as of late.
Like you said you could just wipe off the lube and go, depends on the individual :dblthumb2:

I also clay right after a wash while the car is still wet but only on cool days to prevent water spots.
 
So, the question, should I clay it in sections and wipe it dry/clean, then use a waterless wash before doing any paint correction?

Or will just claying in sections and drying/cleaning with a really good MF towel be enough before applying any paint-correction products?


Thanks in advance.
--Shagnat


If it were me?

I would do the first option.

Clay a section of paint, do a great job of wiping off any residue and move on.

Once you're done with claying, you could give the exterior a good final wipe just to make sure she's clean as possible and then start your machine polishing step.



:)
 
When you clay:

The car is clean.

The clay is clean.

The clay lube is clean.

The towels SHOULD be clean.

The environment is clean.

No need to re-wash. It's kind of like saying, should I re-wash my car after wiping it down with a QD?
 
If you use the Nanoskin wash mitt after you wash the car and leave it wet then rinse done saves a lot of time. I use a ONR for the lube will the car is still wet and the bucket has ONR in it to help with lubing. Then pull it in to shop dry done.
 
Just FYI, I was going to to some "sealant" on my windshield a couple weeks back. I think it was Groit's. Anyway, I washed both front and rear twice with Griot's windshield cleaner then applied the sealant exactly by the directions; using a piece of foam, I applied it side to side, then top to bottom. Everything was good. Then I decided I wanted to clay my windshield (bad move at that time) so I washed the front windshield two more times. I then clayed the front windshield, rewashed it (makes 3 times, twice before claying, then claying, then washing again to get rid of any residue). Rained the next day and my windshield wipers (which are 2 months old) didn't like that at all. The were skipping and jumping like crazy. So....... I go back and rewash the front windshield AGAIN, then applied the sealant the same as before and now all is well. I may never clay my windshield again. Just depends. It doesn't get very dirty anyway as that is one of my pet peeves. I cannot stand to see water marks along where the wipers don't reach. Plus I usually clean my windows the day after driving in the rain just to be sure I don't get those difficult to get out rain spots and I have a clean and clear windshield.
 
Hello, can I use rinseless wash (CarPro ECH2O 1:200) before polishing? I will clay the car using CarPro ECH2O 1:40, ech2o does have SiO2, I will clean the car with CarPro Eraser after washing/claying it. It is okay?
 
Should be fine. Low amount of sio2 and if reset doesnt remove the polishing will


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Hello, can I use rinseless wash (CarPro ECH2O 1:200) before polishing? I will clay the car using CarPro ECH2O 1:40, ech2o does have SiO2, I will clean the car with CarPro Eraser after washing/claying it. It is okay?

Eraser won’t remove what ECH2O leaves behind.

For the best polishing experience don’t use anything that will leave a layer between your abrasives and the panel.

You’ll be spending the first pass or two removing the rubbish and gunking your pads.

Use Optimum No Rinse if you need to RW or WW it prior.
 
I would highly recommend it.
6129960ced03496a282116691b2a2856.jpg


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Eraser won’t remove what ECH2O leaves behind.

For the best polishing experience don’t use anything that will leave a layer between your abrasives and the panel.

You’ll be spending the first pass or two removing the rubbish and gunking your pads.

Use Optimum No Rinse if you need to RW or WW it prior.

Thats bad, cause I was going to use ECH2O 1:40 as lubrication to clay. It should leave SiO2 on the car, and if Eraser will not clean that - not good.
 
And if you're going to use a clay mitt or any rubber clay alternative please remember to break it in on glass first. A lesson learned the hard way lol.
 
Almost all rinseless and waterless have a clay dilution listed. If it was not ok to use for claying (which is mostly done before polishing?), I don’t think most reputable companies (car pros) would recommend. This is a rinseless not a sealant. Way less gloss enhancers and sio2. Your diluting it lighter than their quick detailer recommendation. And if polishing will remove a real LSP this will be no problem. As mentioned before though you may need more passes. If don’t mind spending money and saving effort order some immolube. Has no polymers or gloss enhancers and can be wiped away with eraser.


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Got a reply from CarPro.

If you are polishing afterwards then any Sio2 that could be there from Ech2o would be ripped of the paint within about 1second of polishing. However to answer you, the amount of Sio2 in a detailer is extremely minimal and Eraser will be fine to use to remove the residual from Ech2o."

No problem using it at 1:200 also.

So everything is fine! I can use it as clay lube and rinseless wash before polishing.
 
At first clay the glass?

From my understanding synthetic clays need to be broken in before using on paint. Claying on glass is suppose to break in. How long or how to I have not researched.


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