Is this polish induced marring?!?! *{

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WRAPT C5Z06

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I was finally able to get a pic of what I've been talking about. With the brinkmann directly overhead, you can't see these "scratches". Will the dull part of the light, they're clearly visible. The heavy swirls were removed and the paint looks a lot better! However, this is after LC orange and M105. Went over with m205 white and gray, and I can't get rid of them!!!!

046-2.jpg
 
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07 z-oh-6 said:
I was finally able to get a pic of what I've been talking about. With the brinkmann directly overhead, you can't see these "scratches". Will the dull part of the light, they're clearly visible. The heavy swirls were removed and the paint looks a lot better! This is after LC orange and M105. Went over with m205 white and gray, and I can't get rid of them!!!!

046-2.jpg
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Did you try going down to white?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
The heavy swirls were removed and the paint looks a lot better! However, this is after LC orange and M105.

Went over with m205 white and gray, and I can't get rid of them!!!!
Click to expand...

Looks like marring to me.


Try finishing out with M205 and a polishing pad or a finishing pad. reduce pressure for your last few passes.

Remember, the Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light is a Cruel Master, don't let it drive you nuts.

Also, make sure you're not buffing to a dry buff. There should always be a wet film of product on the surface behind the pad, opposite of the path of travel of the polisher.

Use the swipe test to make sure there's a wet film on the surface, not dried product.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Looks like marring to me.


Try finishing out with M205 and a polishing pad or a finishing pad. reduce pressure for your last few passes.

Remember, the Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light is a Cruel Master, don't let it drive you nuts.

Also, make sure you're not buffing to a dry buff. There should always be a wet film of product on the surface behind the pad, opposite of the path of travel of the polisher.

Use the swipe test to make sure there's a wet film on the surface, not dried product.


:)
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Followed with M205 with white and gray.

Interesting you should mention a wet film. I usually buff to when the product is nearly dry, but you can still see the product, it's not like there's nothing there. I didn't realize the product should still be WET! I'm gonna go try. :)
 
If I remember correclty, you're using the Flex 3401?

What speed are you running the polisher?

Might have to go to a less aggressive product and maybe even a different tool to finish out perfect, hard to say without being there.

Too bad we couldn't have got together while I was in California over the holidays, there's a lot to be said for learning correct technique.


:)
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
LOL...Exactly!!
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This is one of the reasons I knocked the time limit to edit messages on MOL down to about 20 minutes.

A guy like me could write out an in-depth, long answer that made sense, then the OP would go back and change their post making everything I wrote look wrong.

Usually none of this is done for nefarious reasons, it's just mistakes, but sometimes there is a little thought and typing into an answer.

:dblthumb2:
 
It actually looks like the marring is from a rotary buffer from what pattern I can see.

What is this you're working on?

A wheelbarrow?

A car maybe? LOL


It's funny, often times people post questions, explain thing in details but never post what they're working on...


:laughing:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
It actually looks like the marring is from a rotary buffer from what pattern I can see.

What is this you're working on?

A wheelbarrow?

A car maybe? LOL


It's funny, often times people post questions, explain thing in details but never post what they're working on...


:laughing:
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1999 Acura TL. It's my fathers car that sits outside 24/7. Just found out the hood has been painted. So, your rotary buffer thought might be true. Even if I didn't put the marring there, shouldn't I be able to remove it?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
1999 Acura TL. It's my fathers car that sits outside 24/7. Just found out the hood has been painted. So, your rotary buffer thought might be true. Even if I didn't put the marring there, shouldn't I be able to remove it?
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Not if the marring is under the clearcoat.
 
What's strange is, after I do a wipedown with M34 and the surface is dry, if I swipe my finger across the marring, you can clearly see where my swinger swiped. It breaks up the marring. Is this because the oil on my fingers cover it up?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
1999 Acura TL. It's my fathers car that sits outside 24/7. Just found out the hood has been painted. So, your rotary buffer thought might be true. Even if I didn't put the marring there, shouldn't I be able to remove it?
Click to expand...

As long as the defect is topical you should be able to remove it.

  • Did you do a Test Spot?
  • Or buff out the entire hood?
If you did a test spot, did you use a tape line to check the differences between before and after?

Can't stress enough how much this can help trouble shoot problems should they arrive.



07 z-oh-6 said:
What's strange is, after I do a wipedown with M34 and the surface is dry, if I swipe my finger across the marring, you can clearly see where my swinger swiped. It breaks up the marring. Is this because the oil on my fingers cover it up?
Click to expand...

If you're finger oils are filling in the marring that means the marring is very light.

Almost everyone here is always focused on perfection all the time, nothing wrong with that but when you get to the point where you don't want to invest more and more and more time into a car that is as was neglected, will probably neglected into the future, (how did it get neglected in the first place? Sitting outside? Washed and waxed often), then maybe get it to where it's good, get it to where it's better and then apply your favorite wax or paint sealant.

If finger oils are making it look better just think what a coat of wax will do.

How does it look in normal light?

Remember, it's hard to please the Cruel Master...


LOL


:xyxthumbs:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
As long as the defect is topical you should be able to remove it.

  • Did you do a Test Spot?
  • Or buff out the entire hood?
If you did a test spot, did you use a tape line to check the differences between before and after?

Can't stress enough how much this can help trouble shoot problems should they arrive.





If you're finger oils are filling in the marring that means the marring is very light.

Almost everyone here is always focused on perfection all the time, nothing wrong with that but when you get to the point where you don't want to invest more and more and more time into a car that is as was neglected, will probably neglected into the future, (how did it get neglected in the first place? Sitting outside? Washed and waxed often), then maybe get it to where it's good, get it to where it's better and then apply your favorite wax or paint sealant.

If finger oils are making it look better just think what a coat of wax will do.

How does it look in normal light?

Remember, it's hard to please the Cruel Master...


LOL


:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

I definitely did a test spot. There is a very noticeable difference between the tape line, paint looks much better! It looks fine in normal light. The main thing is that I want to be able to tell myself that I removed the marring, and I can't. It's problem something I'm doing that I can easily correct, but I have no idea. It shouldn't be hard to remove, I would think. The paint is definitely neglected, and if I could get the marring out, I'd leave it on the rest of the car, I wouldn't care. Ya get me?
 
The paint on the TL is on the soft side so you are going to have to change your technique from what you did on your vette.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
...if I could get the marring out, I'd leave it on the rest of the car, I wouldn't care. Ya get me?
Click to expand...

I know where you're at. It's you against the car in a test of wills. :mad:

I haven't worked on an Acura, aren't they known for soft CC?

I beat my brains out trying to get Harley's Vivid Black perfect... even if just momentarily. It's so miserably soft you get swirls walking by it. The Brinkmann was my nemisis. Funny, it looked fantastic in direct sun but the Cruel Master couldn't be satisfied. I jeweled with Ultrafina, PO85RD, you name it. I couldn't get 205 to finish well no matter what I tried.

I finally threw up my hands and used a glaze. And then I walked by it and exhaled and it left a mark. :doh:

I've decided to just ride the wheels off it and turn it into a rat bike. Like Mike says, you can drive yourself nuts. :surrender:

TL
 
I have a lot of experience with soft Honda paints. To finish that off right you're gonna need something like PO85RD and a black or blue pad. And then be very careful doing wipe downs as it'll mar again (stupid soft if you ask me). This is why my car is going to get a new clear coat later this spring of something hard, like Audi clear, or if I can afford it, and if it's compatible, Cerami-clear.
 
TLMitchell said:
I know where you're at. It's you against the car in a test of wills. :mad:

I haven't worked on an Acura, aren't they known for soft CC?

I beat my brains out trying to get Harley's Vivid Black perfect... even if just momentarily. It's so miserably soft you get swirls walking by it. The Brinkmann was my nemisis. Funny, it looked fantastic in direct sun but the Cruel Master couldn't be satisfied. I jeweled with Ultrafina, PO85RD, you name it. I couldn't get 205 to finish well no matter what I tried.

I finally threw up my hands and used a glaze. And then I walked by it and exhaled and it left a mark. :doh:

I've decided to just ride the wheels off it and turn it into a rat bike. Like Mike says, you can drive yourself nuts. :surrender:

TL
Click to expand...
TL,

Wow, your post does wonders for me. :props: I was getting really frustrated. I felt like I was doing something wrong, well, maybe I am..lol. Anyhow, yes, it's very soft paint. I removed the defects, but the darn marring, can't finish it out. I'll take your advice! :dblthumb2:
 
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