I believe that the article has some merits. Just ordered some DF towels and will give them a try. Wax and sealant removal I would place in the same category as I would place compound and polish removal in the same category.
Agree. There's a difference between wiping off
correction products and polishing products and
protection products.
I have always been a firm believer that buffing off wax is the wrong way to do it. I've seen so many detailers rub off wax like they were trying to get off every bit of wax from the paint.
I'm going to assume that when you write,
I have always been a firm believer that buffing off wax is the wrong way to do it.
That when you say buffing you mean "Machine Buffing" off the wax because to just say
buffing off wax could include working by hand.
I have to apologize for being so specific but posting to the "Forum World" with a handful of people on every forum that will dissect every word I write in an article has taught me to be specific and choose my words carefully. Also, there may be other reading this thread and I want to make sure I understood what you wrote so everyone understands what were both talking about.
Assuming that you meant "machine buffing" above, then this is where everyone gets to have their personal preference. For some projects I like to remove the wax by machine and done correctly I don't see any problem with it and in fact I know of a couple of benefits to it. I've taught how to remove
dried waxes and sealants by machine in every class I've ever taught and leave it up to the student to make up their own decision as to whether they want to use the technique or not.
And again, everyone can find a way that works best for themselves.
Waxes unlike sealants do not bond to the paint
That starts to get into chemistry and one thing I do is never pretend to be a chemist. I would bring up one point and the word "waxes" like you used above might give people the impression that you're talking about a product based solely on naturally occurring ingredients like Carnauba wax. And how Carnauba wax actually sticks, adheres, or bonds to paint would be best described by a real chemist.
I recently wrote a new article and placed all the
"Paint Protection Products" Autogeek offers into their similar categories and I personally found it interesting as to how many
Hybrid products there are on the market.
A Hybrid product being a product
blended using both
naturally occurring protection ingredients and
synthetic protection ingredients, so if a person is using a blended or Hybrid product that will really throw a wrench into how we all think or assume a product
bonds or
cross-links, or
cures, or
adheres, or
sticks to the paint.
Here's the article and I've included all the categories and the products that fit into them... (I left out all the mundane copy but it's a good read for people that are interested in this topic)
Me? I don't need to get this deep into the chemistry as to how a product sticks to the paint, I'm either going to use the product or not and after I make that decision I move forward with the process, not analyze it or discuss it to death on a forum although that is the nature of some on forums.
It's all good, it's just not what I do, I go out into the garage and put the product on the paint.
I like to
Keep
It
Simple
Simon and when it comes to choosing a wax or paint sealant it becomes a
Go/No Go decision, not a
Go decision and now lets start a thread and analyze this product before I wax the old Ford. :laughing:
and by over rubbing you are removing more wax than is needed.
I'm with you on this. A lot of people don't realize that after initial wipe-off, either by hand or machine its time to walk away, quit wiping the paint. Every time you wipe a freshly waxed or paint sealanted surface you DISRUPT the coating, whatever it is. If the goal is to leave behind the maximum amount of protection ingredients, (whatever they are), then quit touching or quit wiping the paint and allow some time to go by for the protection ingredients to fully set-up.
Full set-up can include whatever means a protection products uses to stick or adhere to the surface.
I try to lightly remove the wax with a low nap mf towel (very thin coat) with the least amount of strokes as is necessary to remove the hazed wax.
That's a good technique to insure you're leaving the maximum amount of protection ingredients on the surface.
- Some people apply a wax or a paint sealant to make the car look good.
- Some people apply a wax or paint sealant to protect the paint
- Some people apply a wax or paint sealant to do both
If the goal is to leave the maximum amount of protection on the car, then after initial wipe-off it's time to stop touching the paint and let the protection ingredients fully set-up.
I know that the natural inclination for most people is to wipe and wipe and wipe and love on their car. That's where a person has to just STOP, think about what they're doing and stop. Let the protection ingredients fully set-up and give the car a final wipe after a window of time has passed.
I let it sit in the sun to allow the wax to flow. The next day I would use a good QD and go over the entire car. The next weekend I would put another coat using the same technique. Just my way of removing waxes.
I 've read for years of people that let the sun warm the car and thus warm the paint and in turn warm the coating on the paint. Some people refer to this a baking the wax, so some such.
I don't do this myself for my own reasons but I respect that everyone has their own way that works best for them.
My personal preference would be to leave a freshly waxed or sealed finish in a place where air-borne contaminants cannot land on the paint, accumulate and then have to be wiped-off and that's the major problem with letting a freshly waxed car sit outside in the open air.
Great point you brought out Ron, good discussion...
:xyxthumbs:
