Do I sell my rotary for a Flex 3401 DA?

dnoraker

dnoraker

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I've been on a different detailing forum for a few years and just started here in the last few days and I keep finding cool new toys and polishes that I want to buy, but I don;t want redundancies. So.....

Should I sell my Makita 9227 and buy a Flex 3401 DA? What can the rotary do that the Flex cannot, considering I'm reading so much about how much speed and cutting power it has?

Keep in mind I've started a PT supplemental detailing business, and I want to have all of the tools I need at my disposal to be one of the best in my region. If I NEED a rotary to do certain things, then I will suck it up and keep it.

ALSO, I have a Meguiars G100 DA polisher. Is this also redundant if I have a Flex DA? Is there anything the G100 can do that the Flex cannot? Should I just sell it if I get a Flex? I've read a ton of posts and I haven't heard mention of the G100; only the G110, G110v2 or 7424XP, all of which I believe to have more power than mine.

I bet I've spent 4-5 hours on this forum today. I'm like a kid in a candy store! Albeit, a frustrated one; so much new information!
 
Keep your Makita and get a new DA. For 120 bucks you'll have a good combo that can tackle any job.
 
I forgot to ask: would owning the Flex 3401 save me time, thus increasing my profits? Either by arm speed or cutting a step out? Would the Flex and let's say Meguiars M205 get similar results as the rotary, but not need to be followed with another step to knock out remaining holograms? I'm especially thinking about Suburbans (I think I had three last season!) that seem to take like 3 hours to get around with one buffing step.
 
dnoraker said:
Would the Flex and let's say Meguiars M205 get similar results as the rotary, but not need to be followed with another step to knock out remaining holograms?
Click to expand...

If you're getting holograms and have to go over it again then yes, the Flex will save you time. I can get a final finish with 205 and the Flex.
 
I don't own a Flex, but have used it and I perfer my rotary and my GG da.
 
If you work well with a rotary it is possible to finish out perfectly with 205 and need no more steps afterwards. I know that the 3m ultrafine pad with 205 on my makita leaves the paint flawless(no swirls, no holograms, no trails)

If you normally follow up compound with a DA and 205 then the flex will save a lot of time, but I would personally keep the makita because you can cut, polish, and jewel with it as well as any machine out there.

The flex is a great tool, and it can cut very well but is not as strong as the makita in cutting out deeper scratches. If you get a flex, you should just sell your DA and keep the rotary for those times when a stronger cut is necessary.
 
I am not familiar with your current rotary but would agree with the previous advice about keeping it and getting a DA. If costs are an issue the GG would be a good alternative. If you have done your research carefully you will see that the 3401 is probaby the best all around buffer for a one pass situation. A rotary may need some additional cleanup whereas a good DA like the 3401 could do it in 1 pass. But the GG is alledged to have even better cutting than the Flex but here again you might need a second pass to clean up. The fact is in any type of finishing process whether its paint, wood, or whatever, you will need 2 or 3 passes to do a first class job when there is heavy correction required. But it seems to me that the 3401 is the best balance and will save the most time on the largest number of situations but will not do it all. Hence, keep a rotary for the heavy corrections.
 
I agree with everyone... keep the rotary because you will want to use it for certain issues.
I have the flex and absolutely love it! but it comes with a high price tag so if you cant swing that then get the GG people have given it amazing reviews and some say its better than the flex.
If you get the flex I would keep the other DA you have (assuming you can use a smaller bp on it) for tiny little areas.
If you get the GG then get the 5" bp and 5.5 pads. Also get a smaller bp to handle smaller pads for tight areas. They really come in handy.

So to sum it up I say keep all the machines if possible. You can find use for them all and all have their place in your detailing arsenal

Jon
 
With practice, what gets the ultimate finish with proper technique? Rotary, Flex or PC7424XP? My experience has been that rotary seems to give the most pop, but you have to deal with light holograms, and with a DA machine you get rid of the holograms, but the clarity isn't quite what you get with the rotary. This has been using M205 with Meguiars pads.

I'm a semi-pro musician and am not afraid to practice. If the rotary gets the best results, but takes a lot of practice to get it, I'll make it happen. If the Flex or PC is behind the best finishes around, sign me up! If my G100 is the reason I'm getting the lack of clarity, and I could fix it with a PC or Flex, I'm going to trade up. I want to use what the top FT pro detailers are using to get award-winning results in a reasonable amount of time. If it's expensive, so be it. I'll sell something else if I have to.
 
Any of the machines can achieve flawless results, the difference is time and skill level. Mike Philips has an article called "How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project" that explains the differences. A rotary is a big step but if used properly can be a deadly tool for finishing a car. A flex is a great all around tool, and a PC is great for anyone who is starting out and needs a level of safety.
 
It takes more skill, but I believe you get a better finish with rotary after the paint has been jeweled for a while. D.A.'s are great for removing swirls, but you can also remove all swirls with a rotary polisher. I us a rotary 99% of the time.


John
 
Great article from Mike!

I think I have a better understanding of what I need. I'll keep the Makita and maybe upgrade my G100 to a Flex for the ability to get more done in one step without compromising results.
 
detailjohn said:
It takes more skill, but I believe you get a better finish with rotary after the paint has been jeweled for a while. D.A.'s are great for removing swirls, but you can also remove all swirls with a rotary polisher. I us a rotary 99% of the time.


John
Click to expand...


Do you know of any good threads or articles explaining how to jewel with a rotary to achieve hologram-free results? I've been using a rotary for a few summers now and have never achieved that goal.
 
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