The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

r1lark said:
Mike, for my '54 Studebaker, you recommended the following:




It's time to apply more #7, at least to the hood, roof, and trunklid.

Question: What should I used to take the wax off so the #7 will soak into the paint?

Thanks for all the help Mike. I've gotten a lot of compliments on the paint of this car, especially when I tell people it was last painted in the early 1970s!

:)
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I'm a huge fan of Mike's process, as it's made a total transformation on my old El Camino, so I would certainly not want to contradict anything Mike tells you, but I'll just add my thoughts on what's worked for me doing a yearly refresh. Even though my Camino is garage-kept and stored all winter after multiple apps of wax through the summer and fall, I find it fails the "baggie test" in the spring. After a thorough washing, I'll do a claying with a mild clay then start my rubs and soaks with M07. I find that it still soaks in well. The only change I do to the process is using a folded MF towel rather than cotton terry, since I don't need to be as aggressive as the first time. Also, I've stepped down my machine polishing to a milder Meguiar's yellow pad on a R/O, as opposed to the rotary I used the first time. Even though my aging paint is still deteriorating, it seems like every yearly re-do makes it just a little bit better.

Bill
 
BillyJack said:
Even though my Camino is garage-kept and stored all winter after multiple apps of wax through the summer and fall, I find it fails the "baggie test" in the spring.
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Isn't that just strange how that happens? Just goes to show you never know what's in the air around your car and for this reason it's IMPORTANT to check after you wash or wipe your car clean.

The hood and roof on my truck continually need to be clayed. (it sits outside 24x7)


BillyJack said:
After a thorough washing, I'll do a claying with a mild clay then start my rubs and soaks with M07.

I find that it still soaks in well.
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Thanks for adding that as this is my experience also. The oils in #7 can still be pushed through a waxed surface so no need to do a "dedicated wax removal step" and in fact, rubbing the surface down with the #7 will not only push the oils into the paint but believe it or not it will remove most of the wax.

This is not because the #7 is abrasive but just the act of moving a cloth over the surface has a cleaning effect.


BillyJack said:
The only change I do to the process is using a folded MF towel rather than cotton terry, since I don't need to be as aggressive as the first time.
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And that's great advice. A person could actually use a soft foam applicator at this point too.


BillyJack said:
Also, I've stepped down my machine polishing to a milder Meguiar's yellow pad on a R/O, as opposed to the rotary I used the first time.
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More good advice,

"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

Most people think the word product means a chemical like a compound or polish but it actually can mean ANYTHING, including the type of pad, the type of tool and even your technique.


BillyJack said:
Even though my aging paint is still deteriorating, it seems like every yearly re-do makes it just a little bit better.

Bill
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That would be my experience also, that is till you get to the point of no return... that's when you start to see a cloudy look to the thinnest areas and the cloudy look is the beginning of the primer to show through...


More paint is better...


Nice input Bill...


:dblthumb2:
 
An other great piece from you Mike. Thank you!

From start to finish, how long did it take you to do all the steps you listed? My concern here is price. I know you do a lot of antique and classic car restorations, how do people feel about paying for 20, 30, 40 hours of work? What arguments can be used to justify such a large expense?
 
New member here:looking forward to getting started on this process for my 1959 Chevy truck.
 
gbrittenum said:
What wax and/or sealer would you use on a 1988 Mustang with single stage black paint (1c) after the #7 show car glaze treatment? It has set in a garage a couple of years. What would give the glossy finish and longest life (are those two things mutually exclusive)?

If a car has vinyl stripes do you clay over the stripes, what about the #7 show car glaze do you use it on the stripes?
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If a car has vinyl stripes do you clay over the stripes?

I'll try and explain to you what I would do in this scenario. Perhaps Mike may approach it differently.

Anytime I am working on, or around, vynil graffics of any shape and size, I use caution.

Where at all possible it's important to start in the middle of the graffic and work towards the edge...work away from the middle, towards and off the edge onto the substrate ... paint, glass, or gel-coat... which ever you're working on. I don't like to work into the edge, or from the paint and up onto the graffic.

You could also clay parallel to the graffic edge, or inline with the stripe possibley without affecting it, but I prefer (when at all possible) starting in the middle and moving away from the edge.

Somewhere in a post, or article, I believe Mr. Phillips eluded to that fact that over time the edge of graffics can be lifted if working into the edge of the vynil graffic. This is especially true using buffing machines around graffics. To my understanding that translates to the vynil lifting more and more, ever so slightly...over time...each time you work into, or towards, the edge of the graffic. The eye isnt' capable of detecting this subtle lifting of the vynil edge until it's too late. Make sense?

Hope this was helpful.
 
Hoytman said:
Somewhere in a post, or article, I believe Mr. Phillips eluded to that fact that over time the edge of graffics can be lifted if working into the edge of the vynil graffic.

This is especially true using buffing machines around graffics.

To my understanding that translates to the vynil lifting more and more, ever so slightly...over time...each time you work into, or towards, the edge of the graffic.

The eye isnt' capable of detecting this subtle lifting of the vynil edge until it's too late.

Make sense?

Hope this was helpful.
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Couldn't have said it better myself Bill.

I do cover this topic in one of the first articles I wrote upon coming to Autogeek back in 2009...

Step-by-Step How-To use the Porter Cable 7424XP


From post #5

Mike Phillips said:
If the car you're working on has any kind of vinyl graphics, stickers or pinstripes, avoid claying over them as you can easily cause the tips to lift and once the tips of any graphic has lifted it's never going to lay flat against the surface again and usually the edges will lift more and more. So be careful around graphics when claying. This also applies when working with paint care products. (Avoid rubbing paint care products over graphics)
detail-81.jpg
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With almost 40,000 posts on this forum half my forum work is just remembering where all this stuff is so I don't have to re-write it. :D


I also cover it in my how-to book which there is a link to in my Signature Line.


:dblthumb2:
 
Thank you for the article.

the paint on my 92 911 has seen better days. and you can clearly see the oxidation. I am gonna spend the winter restoring the paint using this method.

It has a single stage red paint. no metallic. Any recommendation on restoring red paints?

Can I use this method in a span of couple weeks? I can only work on Saturday due to time constrain.
 
ren20 said:
Thank you for the article.

the paint on my 92 911 has seen better days. and you can clearly see the oxidation. I am gonna spend the winter restoring the paint using this method.

It has a single stage red paint. no metallic. Any recommendation on restoring red paints?

Can I use this method in a span of couple weeks? I can only work on Saturday due to time constrain.
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The same process I used on Wayne Carini's car will do a perfect job of restoring the paint on your Porsche.

See this article,
Wayne Carini 1954 Hudson Hornet Original Paint Restored by Mike Phillips



And this article for the exact products used on Wayne Carini's 1953 Hudson Hornet...

4 Steps to restore single paint paint - 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE



The above article is the short version of the article you're reading right now.


1972_Mercedes_280SE_021.jpg



On Autogeek.net


Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze

Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover

Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish

Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax

Lake Country Flat Pads

Porter Cable 7424XP

Flex XC 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher

Microfiber Gloves



:)
 
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the tip. I have another question regarding a product for you.

My local classic porsche restorer has recommend me to use bluemagic cream paste to polish the oxidation on the paint.
bluemagic paste
Do you have experience with such product?

these guys been in the business for 30+ years and highly praised by PCA folks. I am sure they had success with it. I'd like to hear different opinion on this.
 
ren20 said:
Thank you for the article.

the paint on my 92 911 has seen better days. and you can clearly see the oxidation. I am gonna spend the winter restoring the paint using this method.

It has a single stage red paint. no metallic. Any recommendation on restoring red paints?

Can I use this method in a span of couple weeks? I can only work on Saturday due to time constrain.
Click to expand...


I use the same technique outlined in this article to restore all the antique single stage paint I work on. There is no other product currently on the market with the history of success that's also been around sine the Model T and thus been around since single stage automotive paints were invented.

If neglected, antique single stage paint CAN BE restored then the approach I outline will restore it. If the paint is past the point of no return and #7 can't save it then my experience is nothing can save it.

Yes you can do this over the course of a couple of weeks...




ren20 said:
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the tip. I have another question regarding a product for you.

My local classic porsche restorer has recommend me to use bluemagic cream paste to polish the oxidation on the paint.

bluemagic paste

Do you have experience with such product?

these guys been in the business for 30+ years and highly praised by PCA folks. I am sure they had success with it. I'd like to hear different opinion on this.
Click to expand...

Probably better to start a dedicated thread.

I for one would not use a metal polish to restore antique, original paint. I think the idea or suggestion to use a metal polish on antique single paint completely misses the original point I make in the article on how to restore, preserve and maintain antique original single stage paints.

I'd suggest re-reading, not scanning my original article and take note that I recommend this process for cars that are important to the owner.

Not everyone cares about restoring and maintaining the original paint on ANY car and often times these people will dive right in with an aggressive compound when working on their cars.

I'm perfectly okay with that. I wrote this article for people that it's important to them to preserve the original paint.

Key word being original.

Since my how-to segment started airing on "Chasing Classic Cars" with Wayne Carine I get phone calls every week from around the country from guys that are working on classics and antiques trying to restore the original paint.

So my article is for these guys...


Thank you for the question...


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I use the same technique outlined in this article to restore all the antique single stage paint I work on. There is no other product currently on the market with the history of success that's also been around sine the Model T and thus been around since single stage automotive paints were invented.

If neglected, antique single stage paint CAN BE restored then the approach I outline will restore it. If the paint is past the point of no return and #7 can't save it then my experience is nothing can save it.

Yes you can do this over the course of a couple of weeks...






Probably better to start a dedicated thread.

I for one would not use a metal polish to restore antique, original paint. I think the idea or suggestion to use a metal polish on antique single paint completely misses the original point I make in the article on how to restore, preserve and maintain antique original single stage paints.

I'd suggest re-reading, not scanning my original article and take note that I recommend this process for cars that are important to the owner.

Not everyone cares about restoring and maintaining the original paint on ANY car and often times these people will dive right in with an aggressive compound when working on their cars.

I'm perfectly okay with that. I wrote this article for people that it's important to them to preserve the original paint.

Key word being original.

Since my how-to segment started airing on "Chasing Classic Cars" with Wayne Carine I get phone calls every week from around the country from guys that are working on classics and antiques trying to restore the original paint.

So my article is for these guys...


Thank you for the question...


:)
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And I was one of those guys who read, then re-read those articles and even called the man himself to confirm methods. I worked on an even older Porsche than your '92 model. So, I would suggest following Mike's direction to a "T" as it will work wonders.

I did this detail over the course of a weekend, so you can definitely spread it out if you want: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ction-breathing-new-life-into-dead-paint.html

Be sure to take a ton of before pictures and share your results. It's very satisfying.
 
ren20 said:
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the tip. I have another question regarding a product for you.

My local classic porsche restorer has recommend me to use bluemagic cream paste to polish the oxidation on the paint.
bluemagic paste
Do you have experience with such product?

these guys been in the business for 30+ years and highly praised by PCA folks. I am sure they had success with it. I'd like to hear different opinion on this.
Click to expand...

Brings back memories of long ago-----
Back in 1979 I bought a '77 Corvette that had been buffed by a dealer detailer. Even though it was a tan color, the swirls were very visible. Taking some advice from some old-timers, I did a test spot with Blue Magic, which I used on the aluminum wheels and also a test spot with cornstarch. Test spot #3 was done with Meguiar's #3 polish, followed by #7, both done by hand, since the paint on the body peaks was perilously thin from the previous work.
Based on my test, metal polish stayed for wheel use only and cornstarch went back to the pantry.

Stick with the advice you get here.

Bill
 
AC in OC said:
And I was one of those guys who read, then re-read those articles and even called the man himself to confirm methods. I worked on an even older Porsche than your '92 model. So, I would suggest following Mike's direction to a "T" as it will work wonders.

I did this detail over the course of a weekend, so you can definitely spread it out if you want: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ction-breathing-new-life-into-dead-paint.html

Be sure to take a ton of before pictures and share your results. It's very satisfying.
Click to expand...


Thanks for adding the above. I was going to but it was EOD and I was trying to get out of the office for a dinner date.

Here's the results you achieved following my technique...



Before

1965_Porsche_001.jpg



After

1965_Porsche_002.jpg



:)
 
Mike makes it look easy.... Because he is the best at what he does.

I can tell you that it's NOT easy at all....

It takes a lot of time... Days and days and could be over a week depending..... On ONE CAR...

And a lot of the hardest work will be by hand..... And there is no way around it.....

It's all about blood sweat and tears and the passion of bringing the paint back. :dblthumb2:

Yes, I have done it before, more than once and it's something that you really have to be commented 100% to before even taking on a job like that.

And make sure the customer is really willing to pay for it because it's not going to be cheap.

My hats off to Mike for showing the dedication and passion that is needed to achieve results like he did.
 
Mike, I did read your article more than 3 times already :)

I will make sure Bluemagic stays with my wheels. as soon as snow hits the ground. I will get to work!

By the way, what a transformation to that porsche!
 
ren20 said:
Mike, I did read your article more than 3 times already :)

I will make sure Bluemagic stays with my wheels. as soon as snow hits the ground. I will get to work!

By the way, what a transformation to that porsche!
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Thanks. You shouldn't have any difficulties doing this procedure and taking your time. I happened to do this detail towards the end of July and man was it hot! You should be comfortable with the winter temps as you can work up a sweat on the #7 application. This 1st application is the hardest and then each subsequent step will go smoother and easier.

I don't know the condition of your paint, but if it's heavily oxidized like his one definitely do multiple applications. And remember, you don't have to scrub really, really hard in a vigorous motion. It's more like rubbing a sore muscle - you want to use firm pressure, but not hurt yourself in the process.
 
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