The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

[Mike Phillips]

Also,

Check out and I'd suggest reading all my articles on #7


All Mike Phillips #7 Show Car Glaze Articles in one place


And before you start working on the car and BEFORE you rub somewhere on the hood or trunk lid and make a "Shiny Spot", make sure you get the

BEFORE SHOTS


See and read my article here,

The power in the after shots is created in the before shots



Before

After

 

[Pouakai]

Thanks for the response Mike! I managed to source 3 bottles of M7 in America, so they'll probably arrive in a month or so.

In the meantime have washed, clay barred and polished a section of the car with a liberal coating of Ultimate Polish. First impressions are it is only slightly abrasive and quite oily, so I'm hoping it may have similar properties to M7. Looking to preserve as much of the original paint as possible, so I'm happy to leave a few deeper scratches and put it down to "patina".Will leave it for a few hours and report back.

Here's some before photos. Overall the paint is in very good condition considering it was applied in 1965. You can see close up there's water spots and and its pretty scratched up.








Are there any thoughts about Auto Glym's Super Resin Polish? Apparently its completely non-abrasive so I wondered how it compared to M7.

Yes its a bit sad about M7 being discontinued. I'd hope they consider going the way of Castrol, who still do smaller runs of their old Oil, Brake Fluid and Valvemaster lines under the banner of Castrol Classic Oils. Castrol realised its actually really great marketing to take care of their vintage/concours type car customers. All the Meguiar's ads I've seen always feature some kind of cool hot rod or classic pony car which use single stage paint. Its a shame they're closing the door on this market.

 

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks for the response Mike! I managed to source 3 bottles of M7 in America, so they'll probably arrive in a month or so.

In the meantime have washed, clay barred and polished a section of the car with a liberal coating of Ultimate Polish. First impressions are it is only slightly abrasive and quite oily, so I'm hoping it may have similar properties to M7. Looking to preserve as much of the original paint as possible, so I'm happy to leave a few deeper scratches and put it down to "patina".Will leave it for a few hours and report back.

And.... where are you with this project?

Here's some before photos. Overall the paint is in very good condition considering it was applied in 1965. You can see close up there's water spots and and its pretty scratched up.

Cool survivor car. I've owned 6 British sports cars,


Two MG Midgets - 1964 and 1965

Two MGAs - 1959 and a 1962

Two Spitfires - 1974 and 1976


While I loved the cars they all needed a high performance Chevy V-6 and also have all the wiring replaced to wiring that was functional.

Are there any thoughts about Auto Glym's Super Resin Polish? Apparently its completely non-abrasive so I wondered how it compared to M7.

I think that's one of those MANY products on the market that use the word POLISH on the label but it in fact a SEALANT. I could be wrong but the words glaze and polish are the most miss-used words on the car detailing world.

Yes its a bit sad about M7 being discontinued.

All the Meguiar's ads I've seen always feature some kind of cool hot rod or classic pony car which use single stage paint. Its a shame they're closing the door on this market.

When I was at Meguiar's they had a term in the Marketing department called,

Skew Rationalization


And when I was there, from memory, if a product didn't do 2 million in sales a year it was discontinued.

Lots of Meguiar's fans were sad to see All Purpose Plus and their waterless wash go away.

I hope the don't discontinue the #7 but if they do - it is what it is...

 

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Mike.

I just got done studying your Restoring Single Stage Paint series, finally an expert instruction for my car exterior.

I have a 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme convertible with the original acrylic Provincial White (flat non-metallic) exterior.


I will post before and after pixs when I get going.

What ever happened to the 1967 Olds Cutlass?

 

[Mike Phillips]

:bump:

Shared here,

Need advice - Oxidized Paint Correction on 1968 Dodge Charger

 

[TonesGTO]

Mike, love how much you've shared about this technique. It has already maybe a huge difference in my father 1979 Trans Am. Now I am tackling his 1969 Grand Prix but he also wants me to touch up some chips in the front. The car is all factory paint and is in good shape but dull. Would you suggested the #7 soak then touch up? or touch up first them the soak?

 

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, love how much you've shared about this technique. It has already maybe a huge difference in my father 1979 Trans Am.

Good to hear.

What I love is considering only a small percentage of people actually own a car with antique and/or original single stage paint, look how many views this thread has as of just a minute ago...

Now I am tackling his 1969 Grand Prix but he also wants me to touch up some chips in the front.

The car is all factory paint and is in good shape but dull. Would you suggested the #7 soak then touch up? or touch up first them the soak?

Do all your paint work first. Do Touch-up work last.

See my article here,

How to use the Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip Repair Systems


In the first post I answer this question in a question/answer format

Question - bla bla bla

Answer - bla bla bla

 

[TonesGTO]

Thank you for replying so quickly! Wasn't sure if it be any different since we are trying to restore the oil back into the paint. Ill be sure to post some before and after pictures.

 

[Mike Phillips]

Do all your paint work first. Do Touch-up work last.

Wasn't sure if it be any different since we are trying to restore the oil back into the paint.

I can see why you would wonder, but two things,

1: You clean the chipped area before applying the touch-up paint.

2: The solvents in the touch-up paint help to self-etch where you place the paint.


Applying touch-up paint AFTER #7 and any paint correction or polishing would be the least of my worries.


:cheers:

 

[Wicked61]

Here is a single stage transformation years back. Primitive in the materials used then. The entire rig took 11 hours without a true break. 11,000 trucks later, no mas.

 

[Mike Phillips]

Here is a single stage transformation years back.

Wow! Huge transformation.

:cheers:

 

[Vifa]

Hi Mike,

Just now I'm working on my Dodge Wayfarer Business Coupe '49. Original paint with a lot of patina and thin layers on several spots.
It has always been hard to keep the paint clean between waxes, especially on the spots where the paint is almost down to bare metal.
Rust seems to gather rather fast on these exposed surfaces.

So far I have used Iron Decon from Meguiars to remove the worst of the surface rust. Spraying on to a microfiber towel and applying one layer at a time. Wiping on and wiping off.
Next on claying the whole car with C2000 + M34 from Meguiars.
The paint seems to get clean after some time and the rust seems to be gone.

Please let me know your thoughts - maybe you have a better approach?

I plan on applying the M7 and let it saturate over the night.
But I have a couple of questions for this process.
I have watched some of your latest videos on this subject, maybe I got it wrong but I got a little confused.

How to use Meguiars Mirror Glaze 7 Show Car Glaze to restore antique and original single stage paint - YouTube

Do you remove the first application (the saturation) before adding the next? - or do you apply the second level onto the first layer?

Since I have had a hard time keeping the paint clean of rust between waxes I have bought the new Hybrid Paint Coating from Meguairs.
In the video above you advice against applying a coating after the M7 process.
Can you please elaborate? - I would like to incapsulate the condition of my car with something better than wax this time.

I'm looking forward to hear from you - have a nice day

 

[The Guz]

Hi Mike,

Just now I'm working on my Dodge Wayfarer Business Coupe '49. Original paint with a lot of patina and thin layers on several spots.
It has always been hard to keep the paint clean between waxes, especially on the spots where the paint is almost down to bare metal.
Rust seems to gather rather fast on these exposed surfaces.

So far I have used Iron Decon from Meguiars to remove the worst of the surface rust. Spraying on to a microfiber towel and applying one layer at a time. Wiping on and wiping off.
Next on claying the whole car with C2000 + M34 from Meguiars.
The paint seems to get clean after some time and the rust seems to be gone.

Please let me know your thoughts - maybe you have a better approach?

I plan on applying the M7 and let it saturate over the night.
But I have a couple of questions for this process.
I have watched some of your latest videos on this subject, maybe I got it wrong but I got a little confused.

How to use Meguiars Mirror Glaze 7 Show Car Glaze to restore antique and original single stage paint - YouTube

Do you remove the first application (the saturation) before adding the next? - or do you apply the second level onto the first layer?

Since I have had a hard time keeping the paint clean of rust between waxes I have bought the new Hybrid Paint Coating from Meguairs.
In the video above you advice against applying a coating after the M7 process.
Can you please elaborate? - I would like to incapsulate the condition of my car with something better than wax this time.

I'm looking forward to hear from you - have a nice day

Mike has moved onto 3D.

 

[dgage]

Hi Mike,

Just now I'm working on my Dodge Wayfarer Business Coupe '49. Original paint with a lot of patina and thin layers on several spots.
It has always been hard to keep the paint clean between waxes, especially on the spots where the paint is almost down to bare metal.
Rust seems to gather rather fast on these exposed surfaces.

So far I have used Iron Decon from Meguiars to remove the worst of the surface rust. Spraying on to a microfiber towel and applying one layer at a time. Wiping on and wiping off.
Next on claying the whole car with C2000 + M34 from Meguiars.
The paint seems to get clean after some time and the rust seems to be gone.

Please let me know your thoughts - maybe you have a better approach?

I plan on applying the M7 and let it saturate over the night.
But I have a couple of questions for this process.
I have watched some of your latest videos on this subject, maybe I got it wrong but I got a little confused.

How to use Meguiars Mirror Glaze 7 Show Car Glaze to restore antique and original single stage paint - YouTube

Do you remove the first application (the saturation) before adding the next? - or do you apply the second level onto the first layer?

Since I have had a hard time keeping the paint clean of rust between waxes I have bought the new Hybrid Paint Coating from Meguairs.
In the video above you advice against applying a coating after the M7 process.
Can you please elaborate? - I would like to incapsulate the condition of my car with something better than wax this time.

I'm looking forward to hear from you - have a nice day

The M7 process imparts “moisture” to the paint and a coating needs to have completely clean paint. I’d recommend a strong sealant such as Griot’s Ceramic 3-in-1 Wax and apply it every 4-6 months. I worry the coating wouldn’t bond well with the M7.