Griot's ROP...I'm Still A Rookie

[NYC-Style]

Ok so I've done my second car using the Griot's ROP (my girlfriends 2004 Camry)...I have no prior experience and so I'm learning as I go along, thanks to all of you. She's never had it waxed in the six years she's owned it. My first question is what would cause this to happen to my LC pad...the backing plate was hot and you can see the pad backing just stuck like glue to the plate. I went to switch pads and then this happened...are you supposed to let it sit/cool before switching pads?

I was somewhat happy with the results but the camry had hard water spots that appear to be etched into the paint...any suggestions? Also there were numerous scratches that I could not get out...I couldn't feel them with my fingernail. I was happy with removing the spider webbing/swirls.

I used WG TSR with an orange pad on my test spot with then actually went on and used the WG TSR with a yellow pad. I thought the yellow worked a bit better than the orange. Now I'm not sure if this part was correct...after doing the whole car with the yellow pad I then went to an orange pad still using the WG TSR (was that right?). I then went on to the WG FG with a white pad...and then finished it up with WG DGPS with a red pad. The girlfriend was totally happy with the results. I still thought it could have been better...but I'm learning. Any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated...

 

[christian900se]

Great job on bringing that paint to life, nice results! I remember when I first got my PC and polishes 4 years ago, it really opened my eyes to the kind of results even a beginner could achieve.

Regarding the pad: there have been way too many people lately having issues with their pads delaminating or the core going soft and essentially melting internally like yours. If you bought it from AG, I would get in touch with them.

 

[HighEndDetail]

Nice turn around you did. Don't beat yourself up, over not getting all the scratches out. If she is happy, then you should be happy.

As for the pad issue. I have never had it happen to me.( cross my fingers) Some say, if the pad was not completely dry. The moisture would heat up, and then the pad could seperate.

 

[5.4 Shelby]

I have had similar problems. I wrote a thread called "Smoked a Pad" For various reasons that backing plate gets very hot. I have been having better luck with a few changes in my technique.

1. Clean and/or change the pads FREQUENTLY. As the pads build up product they drag and create more friction. This also helps to keep the pads from building up so much heat. I bought the Grit Gaurd pad washer and love it.

2. Less pressure on the polisher.

3. Slower speed. I polish on 5 instead of 6.

4. I started using SMAT polishes instead of DAT so that I could stop at any point in the polsihing cycle and not have to worry about breaking down the polish all the way. I use either the 105/205 combo or the UC/SX combo.

 

[Marc08EX]

I also had the same problem the first time I used my Meg's G100. I think the main problem was that I put too much product onto the pad and used more pressure than needed. This probably caused the pad to compress more than normal allowing the saturated product to reach the BP and cause it to melt like that. Not to mention the heat of the DA contributing to the problem.

 

[Rsurfer]

I have had similar problems. I wrote a thread called "Smoked a Pad" For various reasons that backing plate gets very hot. I have been having better luck with a few changes in my technique.

1. Clean and/or change the pads FREQUENTLY. As the pads build up product they drag and create more friction. This also helps to keep the pads from building up so much heat. I bought the Grit Gaurd pad washer and love it.

2. Less pressure on the polisher.

3. Slower speed. I polish on 5 instead of 6.

4. I started using SMAT polishes instead of DAT so that I could stop at any point in the polsihing cycle and not have to worry about breaking down the polish all the way. I use either the 105/205 combo or the UC/SX combo.

:iagree:good advice.