Claying left scratches

Dynamic_Detailing said:
In fact... the scratches left behind are so fine, I am almost certain they can be removed by hand with a very mild polish; such as Meg's Scratch-X perhaps (although I have not had great results with that product in the past - but that could have been due to the product being quite old and applying to a warm paint surface).
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The original ScratchX used diminishing abrasives and it did work but it was VERY technique dependent and often times required multiple applications before you would see improvement. Improvement = you with your hand were able to REMOVE enough paint to level the surface and thus remove the scratches.

The new ScratchX uses the same abrasives technology used in M105 and M205 and you can get better results faster than you ever could with the original formula(s).


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The original ScratchX used diminishing abrasives and it did work but it was VERY technique dependent and often times required multiple applications before you would see improvement. Improvement = you with your hand were able to REMOVE enough paint to level the surface and thus remove the scratches.

The new ScratchX uses the same abrasives technology used in M105 and M205 and you can get better results faster than you ever could with the original formula(s).


:)
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Thank you SO MUCH! That single post completely reaffirmed my confidence in the new Scratch-X formula - and I'll keep a new bottle on hand into the future to take care of those problematic hair line scratches that might surface from time to time. Since I am very hesitant to use my Makita on a new vehicle, I am truly interested in something that can remove scratches by hand.

Would you suggest any special technique, application amount (of product), pressure, or prep/post procedures before and after the Scratch-X application? :)
 
Dynamic_Detailing said:
Would you suggest any special technique, application amount (of product), pressure, or prep/post procedures before and after the Scratch-X application?
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  • Always work clean

  • Use a clean, soft foam applicator pad, I really like these,

    CCS Red Wax/Sealant Applicator Pads 2 Pack

    Because they are fairly thick so the spread out the pressure of your fingers better than thinner versions. (I like thinner versions for applying finishing waxes and sealants because then I'm not pushing hard so don't need the thickness).

  • Work on a cool surface in the shade

  • Work a small area at a time, about 8" to 10" squarish or so...

  • Use an "ample" amount of product, don't under-use and don't overuse to the point that you hyper-lubricate the surface but use enough to keep the surface lubricated throughout the process. I would use a teaspoon to a tablespoon of product, usually a tablespoon's amount to start with because your pad is dry when you start and some of the product is going to go into the pad, and after breaking in your pad then cut down to about a teaspoon's amount of product.

  • Hold your hand flat to the pad, not vertical, the idea is to not put pressure ONLY on your fingertips but over the face of your fingers to avoid Fingermarks

  • Spread the product out over the area you're going to work

  • Work the product for about a minute, don't work till the product is dry, but it should go from an opaque film to a clear film

  • Wipe off before residue dries

  • When you move on to a new area overlap a little into the previous area


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
  • Hold your hand flat to the pad, not vertical, the idea is to not put pressure ONLY on your fingertips but over the face of your fingers to avoid Fingermarks
  • Work the product for about a minute, don't work till the product is dry, but it should go from an opaque film to a clear film
  • Wipe off before residue dries
:)
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:wow: Amazing Advice... phew! I left the three points you made above in the quoted block, because I have never done ANY of those three - and it's awesome to get some detailed suggestions that I'm SURE will vastly improve my Scratch-X results next time!

I remember I made a post here, over two years ago, after using Scratch-X. I was very disappointed by the result, and could barely remove the polish no matter how hard or long I tried. Little did I know, I did my ENTIRE hood at once, far from your 8-10'' recommendation, and I also LET THE SCRATCH-X DRY after applying it (because I thought it behaved and should be treated like any other wax)! Now that I know to wipe off BEFORE it dries, looks like all my bases are covered and those past mistakes will be no more - especially with the new formulation.

Thank you so sincerely!
 
You must glide the clay over the paint . If the clay drags , you will have marring. Never , ever rub hard. Ive never had any problems with marring useing clay.
 
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