2011 Audi Q5 Ready for Detailing

threepointer

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I have been reading the posts on here for a few days now in preparation for my new vehicle that is on its way. I purchased a black 2011 Audi Q5 and plan to keep it detailed at all times as my commute consists of 5 blocks garage to garage. I must say that after logging on to get some "wax tips" I was totally addicted and ended up spending $150 on product. LOL I feel like I am now hooked, but happy that I am doing things the right way and learning what works best from you all - the experts.

Here's my plan, let me know if you taught me well as I leave the nest:

1. Make the dealer promise to "Not touch, not wash, not prep" the car and ask them to keep the plastic on it.

2. Wash with ONR Wash and Shine

3. Clay it with Pinnacle XMT Speed Clay Bundle (Lube and Clay) so that it passes the "plastic bag test"

4. Polish with 32 oz. Menzerna Polish PO85RD (I didn't spring for a power tool yet, but after reading more, I may have to)

5. Seal with 16 oz. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0

6. Finish with a coat of carnauba (if my arm is not ready to fall off)

Thank guys, and I welcome any feedback. Feed back please
 
Here's my plan, let me know if you taught me well as I leave the nest:

1. Make the dealer promise to "Not touch, not wash, not prep" the car and ask them to keep the plastic on it.

The BEST thing you can do and the best thing anyone buying a new car, truck or s.u.v. should do to avoid having un-necessary and unwanted swirls and scratches inflicted into your car's innocent, thin and delicate paint finish.

2. Wash with ONR Wash and Shine

Personal preference on this one, some people are not in a location or position to use free flowing water, like rinsing and washing your car with a hose hooked up to a spigot.

I think all systems for washing a car can be safe, but the ability to flow water over the car to remove any dirt or abrasive particulates without physically touching the paint must have an edge, (to some level), over approaches that don't include flowing or spraying water.

3. Clay it with Pinnacle XMT Speed Clay Bundle (Lube and Clay) so that it passes the "plastic bag test"

Since the car is brand new, after washing and drying the paint, do the "The Baggie Test" first, it could be the paint doesn't need to be clayed? It's possible that in transit or while being stored at any point from when it left the cover of the assembly line to your garage it could have some type of air-borne contaminants land and bonding to the paint, but it wouldn't hurt to inspect first.

The Baggie Test
PaintCleaningByHand022.jpg



4. Polish with 32 oz. Menzerna Polish PO85RD (I didn't spring for a power tool yet, but after reading more, I may have to)

For the ultimate in effectiveness of working any paint care product over a clear coat finish you want a machine. Machine polishing will also maximize gloss better than your 4 fingers pushing down on some type of applicator pad.

5. Seal with 16 oz. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0

Excellent paint sealant choice.

6. Finish with a coat of Carnauba (if my arm is not ready to fall off)

Get a DA Polisher and then you can apply both liquid and paste waxes and sealants by machine and save your arm and shoulder.

How to Apply Dodo Pastes Waxes by Machine
How To Apply Mothers California Gold Carnauba Paste Wax by Machine


:)
 
i thought it was wax, then sealant?

Other way around...a sealant lasts longer than a carnauba wax (most of the time) and also contains cleaners that clean the paint to help the polymer sealant bond better with the paint (most of the time). If you were to apply a carnauba wax first, then apply a sealant with a cleaner, you would be removing the layer of carnauba wax, and working backwards. That's why you apply a sealant first, let it cure (for up to 12 hours) then apply a coat, or coats, of carnauba wax :xyxthumbs:
 
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