Headlight Resto

[Quenga]

So I'm in need of some extra cash, so I started offering detailing services to friends and friends of friends. I never had really crazy shots of headlights I've done and most have been moderate at most. I needed something that stood out, that most people believe can't be fixed (those unfamiliar with detailing obviously). My co-worker has some messed up headlights on her Jeep. Well, actually her entire car is horrible, but this was a freebie to test out my new "kit" I put together specifically to do headlight jobs. I don't want to spend a lot of time detailing cars, so this is a easy job that pays good enough for extra cash.

Anyways, I took my idea for this "kit" from Megiuars Proffessional Headlight/Spot Repair Kit. I don't have an air compressor, so buying this kit wouldn't make sense. However, I just bought everything else in the kit and am using my PC as a sander and my super expensive...Harbor Freight rotary buffer. I'm hoping I get enough jobs to get either a Flex or Makita, but for $35...can't beat it.

I couldn't get it as perfect as I wanted and Autogeek has my 500 and 800 grit sandpapers on BKO right now. I have some 600/800 wet/dry 3m sheets that I used on the other headlight. I tried using the 320 grit and then following it up with 600 dry, but I didn't get the results I was looking for. Once my paper is in stock and I receive it, I'm going to redo it as the 320 left some "pigtails" or whatever it's called when you dry sand.

I am editing a video showing what I did. Minus the 500/800 grits, it's pretty much what I'll be doing. Previously I wetsanded by hand with 600, 800, 1000 and 2000. Then buffed it all with 105/205 using LC Orange/White pads. But, I like this process much better and I like these pads way more than the LC CCS pads, which I am now no longer going to buy.

Alright, enough jabber.........photo's:

This is what I started with. Tons of yellowing and oxidation. The headlight felt like lower grit sandpaper than my 320!

This is after just spraying some degreaser (Purple Power) and claying. All yellowing gone.

And some final after shots:

And, just because. When I said her car is horrible (but not the worst I've seen)...

Getting it to this point took me at least 10 minutes. I want to get a full detail on her car, but I told her she's gotta pay for it. Another thing I'm saving for...an extractor. Despite vacuuming, you could just feel the filth on her carpets. I felt like I had to sanitize my hands after just touching her carpet.

 

[Quenga]

Here's the video...


[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBWemN0rqgY]YouTube - Headlight Restoration - Jeep Grand Cherokee[/video]

 

[rohnramirez]

This is what I started with. Tons of yellowing and oxidation. The headlight felt like lower grit sandpaper than my 320!

Lol! Great work on the headlights. You might wanna try starting at a higher grit, trying the least abrasive method first. That'll save you time by not removing the scratches of lower grit sandpapers. IMO you're removing too much plastic with 320. Well done and what a way to make a quick buck!

 

[ICEMAN]

i dont do any less than 500 grit. i always start with 800 when they are bad, to see if i even need the 500.

 

[g35_coupe]

Great results. You can probably skip claying the lens if you're going to be sanding it. That would be like disinfecting old kitchen countertops before refinishing them (sorry, that's the best example I could think of). According to your video, it took you a long time to do it though. How long did that one side take exactly? I'm thinking of starting a restoration business too BTW.

 

[Quenga]

You might wanna try starting at a higher grit, trying the least abrasive method first. That'll save you time by not removing the scratches of lower grit sandpapers. IMO you're removing too much plastic with 320. Well done and what a way to make a quick buck!

Yeah, this car was just a test dummy to test out everything in the kit. I don't think using the 320 was beneficial. I've always done it by hand with 600/800/1000/2000 wet, then buffed with a orange CCS pad and then a white pad on my PC. But, I just got all this new stuff and wanted to try it all out.

I actually did the other headlight starting with just 600 grit wet sanding and got the same, if not better results, since I didn't have to remove 320 grit sanding marks.

i dont do any less than 500 grit. i always start with 800 when they are bad, to see if i even need the 500.

Yeah, I never had anything lower than 600, except when I had the 3m kit you use with a drill. I didn't like all the scratches that put in the lens though.

Great results. You can probably skip claying the lens if you're going to be sanding it. That would be like disinfecting old kitchen countertops before refinishing them (sorry, that's the best example I could think of). According to your video, it took you a long time to do it though. How long did that one side take exactly? I'm thinking of starting a restoration business too BTW.

Here are my thoughts after using this "kit" I assembled.

1. 320 grit isn't necessary. Even on these headlights. I did the drivers side with 600 grit wet sanding and got the same results. Will I ever use the 320 again? Probably, but not until I get the 500 to remove those scratches.

2. I'm not fond of the wool pad. It works fast, but it clogs up fast as well. It's not like a large wool pad. Maybe I put too much compound on, but either way, I don't think I'll absolutely need it since I finish with 3000 grit. Next set I will just go burgundy/yellow and see what happens.

3. Claying. Is it necessary? No. Did I even pull up anything after claying? No. Will I do it again...no.


With all that said, this light took me about 45 minutes. However, I had to get up a few times to get stuff, I had to go back to re-sand some stuff and I used everything I had vs. only the few products I probably needed. I think I could do a light in less than 20 minutes from taping to untaping.