Product choice and pad choice recommendation for newbie?

[Streetmagus]

Hello everyone,
I am new to the detailing world and I can tell you it is quite confusing when choosing the right products for the right project.
It is confusing how some companies use polish and wax interchangeably...I thought they were two different things. Am I wrong? I thought we polish the the surface to a nice look and then we apply wax to protect it? It doesn't make sense because some companies claim their polish is better than some waxes or sealants out there? Are they implying to just use their polish and you're done?

Anyways, besides that confusion, I am getting ready for a big detailing project on my car. It is a 1995 Mercedes-Benz S420(huge sedan), with the factory Polar White color.
I need a recommendation on products and perhaps even pads (if the ones I have are not correct) that is best for the white paint.

I am not new to using the tools, and how to polish and wax cars. My cousin had taught me how to do all that when he needed my help in detailing his cars. The problem is I never paid much attention to the products he used and the steps.
So I tried researching and the more I read, the more confused I became (as stated above, difference between polish/wax/sealants/rubbing compound etc).

Here is a list of products I have:

Buffer and Pads:

• Porter Cable 7424XP kit that came with the pads listed below as well as a 5 inch backing plate.
• 7.5" CCS Curved Edge Yellow Cutting Pad
  Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange pad and a fine polish and then a white pad to refine the paint until it is smooth.
  
• 7.5" CCS Curved Edge Orange Light Cutting Pad
  Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.
  
• 5.5" CCS White Polishing Pad
  The white polishing pads feature high absorption foam for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.
  
• 5.5" Gray Light cutting Pads
  Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. Use with machine glaze, waxes, and sealants. Ultra-soft and incredible for a putting on that finishing touch.

Polishes and Waxes:

• Meguiars Polishing Compound: Mirror Glaze(R) # 2; Machine Only Fine Cut Paint Cleaner
  "Fine-Cut Cleaner is a mildly abrasive cleaner that removes fine surface defects including light oxidation, stains, scratches, swirls and fresh water spots. Diminishing Abrasives cut quickly, then reduce to a polishing rouge, while Buffered Abrasive action lubricates the finish to prevent scratching."
  POD at CSK Auto
  
• Meguiars Liquid Wax: Mirror Glaze(R) # 7; Show Car Glaze
  "Show Car Glaze outshines all other hand applied polishes, glazes, waxes and sealants. Restores a dazzling, deep, wet shine. Show Car Glaze does not dry white and is safe and effective on all paint finishe"
  POD at CSK Auto
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Wax
  "Elegant, timeless, premium...Since its introduction, Meguiar's® Gold Class™ Liquid Wax has inspired automotive enthusiasts worldwide to pamper, condition and protect their treasured investments. Our unique and proprietary blend of conditioners nourish and enrich paint to create clear, deep reflections and brilliant shine. Carnauba and polymer protecting agents reflect damaging UV rays, remove fine swirls, and create strong, long-lasting protection to preserve your finish.
  Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Wax is clear coat safe and simple to apply and remove. Our premium formula glides on and off smoothly so pampering your car is easy and enjoyable."
  Meguiar's Direct Gold Class™ Liquid Wax

The Polish and wax products were given to me by my cousin. I feel it is incomplete, because when I worked with him he had way more products. But then again he has a black car, and if I remember correctly there were many steps in getting a black car to shine.
I need to know whether these products are any good, and if so, which order should I use them? (I assume it is in the listed order).

I know the steps (at least I think I know) that I need to detail a car. Is it basically the following?

1. Wash Car with car detergent and Dry (I use a two bucket system)
2. Clay Bar the car using a lube such as quick detailer/car wash detergent
3. Was Car with car detergent and Dry
4. Polish the Car
5. Wax the Car

The confusing part for me is step 4 and 5, and everything in between. Some people apply paint sealant, some people use rubbing compounds, etc etc...

So I am asking for a recommendation, what products and pads do I need to get my (white) car really clean with a deep gloss? I need a complete list from start to finish if possible...
Of course you will need more information on my car, and its paint condition.
The car is never garaged, parked on the driveway.
The paint is in good condition. It has a wax on it right now (I had used the products above; mirror glaze #2, then #7, then applied the meguiar's wax). I am however, unsatisfied with it.
It doesn't give off a nice glossy look that I see on other cars that are white. There is noticeable oxidation on some panels, I believe either the pad I used at the time (not an abrasive one, felt more like an wax applicator) or the mirror glaze #2 not being strong enough. There are also swirl marks that are noticeable at certain angles. Especially at night under the street lights, there are a ton of fine scratches, sort of like the scratches you see under a CD. I'm not sure if its the products I am using, or is it just that the paint I have cannot give that same glossy look because of its color?

The paint also has these very fine, black dots. It is really small, specks, all over the roof, trunk, and hood. I believe people call these tar? Is it tar? No matter how hard I scrub, I can't get rid of it. Clay barring will smooth the surface out but those specks of black dots do not go away! It is hard to notice, you have to really get close and look at the paint to see it. How do I remove those? Use a very coarse pad and strong polisher?

Last but not lease, my windshield bothers me too. There are specks that are clear. Tree sap perhaps? I can't scrub them off. There is no water spots, but these little specs that almost make it seem as if the windshield had been chipped by very tiny sand particles. Also has a white hazy mildew type of stuff when the sun hits it at a certain angle.

Please, could someone help me in choosing the right products to restore this car to a very nice look? The paint itself is in good condition, no deep scratches no rush no rock chips. It has just been neglected and weather beaten due to not being in a garage.

Thank you all in advance!

 

[CEE DOG]

First let me say welcome. :welcome: We are all very happy to have you!

I saw there was like 40+ views and no responses so I came in here to see what gives. In the future it would be a better idea to break your questions up into seperate threads. I know its natural to just want to ask all your questions at one time. I used to do the same. But you have to remember that people looking through the threads (enjoying themselves) an enjoying commenting and giving advice on things are usually hesitant to take on a post like this. I am not going to help as much as I'd like because it would take me forever and I have to get some sleep. I'll take a stab at a bit of it.

Hello everyone,
It is confusing how some companies use polish and wax interchangeably...I thought they were two different things. Am I wrong? I thought we polish the the surface to a nice look and then we apply wax to protect it? It doesn't make sense because some companies claim their polish is better than some waxes or sealants out there? Are they implying to just use their polish and you're done?

You are correct. Polish and wax are 2 different things just as you describe. The polish corrects the paint. The wax and or sealant protects it. There are also products called AIO. (All in ones) These are jacks of all trades and usually masters of none. They polish the paint (some) and leave behind protection.

For your case I don't think an AIO is what you need.

Here is a list of products I have:


Buffer and Pads:
Porter Cable 7424XP
5.5" CCS White Polishing Pad

5.5" Gray Light cutting Pads

The 7.5" pads are way to big for the PC. Forget about them or try to trade them to somebody for smaller pads. The white and grey pads are the right size and they are good but you also need some pads for correction. I would recomend the LC HT pads. 3 tangerine and 3 cyan should get you there. How many grey and white pads do you have?

The Polish and wax products were given to me by my cousin. I feel it is incomplete, because when I worked with him he had way more products. But then again he has a black car, and if I remember correctly there were many steps in getting a black car to shine. I need to know whether these products are any good, and if so, which order should I use them? (I assume it is in the listed order).

These products are "good" (not that I've used them myself) but might not be all you need right now. Post some pictures but you need a polish that will remove the defects (swirls and scratches) before you go about using a finishing polish. For starting out Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 is a wonderful product. Meguiars 105 and 205 would really be great for you but based on your post I fear you might have a little trouble with them. It depends on you.

I know the steps (at least I think I know) that I need to detail a car. Is it basically the following?

1. Wash Car with car detergent and Dry (I use a two bucket system)
2. Clay Bar the car using a lube such as quick detailer/car wash detergent
3. Was Car with car detergent and Dry
4. Polish the Car
5. Wax the Car

The confusing part for me is step 4 and 5, and everything in between. Some people apply paint sealant, some people use rubbing compounds, etc etc...

You are correct on the steps.
To clear up 4. and 5. I'll say this.

4. Polish the car
5. Seal or wax the car
6. If you used a sealant in step 5 then you can wax the car after letting the sealant cure but you don't have to wax if you sealed. Further conversation on this can be had later.

So I am asking for a recommendation, what products and pads do I need to get my (white) car really clean with a deep gloss? I need a complete list from start to finish if possible...
Of course you will need more information on my car, and its paint condition.
The car is never garaged, parked on the driveway.
The paint is in good condition. It has a wax on it right now (I had used the products above; mirror glaze #2, then #7, then applied the meguiar's wax). I am however, unsatisfied with it.
It doesn't give off a nice glossy look that I see on other cars that are white. There is noticeable oxidation on some panels, I believe either the pad I used at the time (not an abrasive one, felt more like an wax applicator) or the mirror glaze #2 not being strong enough. There are also swirl marks that are noticeable at certain angles. Especially at night under the street lights, there are a ton of fine scratches, sort of like the scratches you see under a CD. I'm not sure if its the products I am using, or is it just that the paint I have cannot give that same glossy look because of its color?

We'll get back to this later.
You are in the right place (Autogeek) to learn how to get it to a place where you will be very satisfied.

The paint also has these very fine, black dots. It is really small, specks, all over the roof, trunk, and hood. I believe people call these tar? Is it tar? No matter how hard I scrub, I can't get rid of it. Clay barring will smooth the surface out but those specks of black dots do not go away! It is hard to notice, you have to really get close and look at the paint to see it. How do I remove those? Use a very coarse pad and strong polisher?

Last but not lease, my windshield bothers me too. There are specks that are clear. Tree sap perhaps? I can't scrub them off. There is no water spots, but these little specs that almost make it seem as if the windshield had been chipped by very tiny sand particles. Also has a white hazy mildew type of stuff when the sun hits it at a certain angle.

Please, could someone help me in choosing the right products to restore this car to a very nice look? The paint itself is in good condition, no deep scratches no rush no rock chips. It has just been neglected and weather beaten due to not being in a garage.

Claying and Tarminator along with a pinnacle bug sponge will remove a lot of these things if they are what you think they are. Lets get some pictures of each of these items and then we can give you advice on how to handle them.

I didn't get real specific with things because you threw so much out in the first post. Now that we have started the dialogue I think more people will pop in with different things I didn't cover. As soon as you can get those pictures of everything you mentioned and post them here.

 

[Buckskincolt]

I would recomend the LC HT pads. 3 tangerine and 3 cyan should get you there.

I agree the Hydro Tech pads are awesome and the 5.5" ones are what you need for a PC, also they will work great with the 5" backing plate.

For starting out Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 is a wonderful product. Meguiars 105 and 205 would really be great for you but based on your post I fear you might have a little trouble with them.

I Use the Wolfgang combo and really like it. I have but rarely use the 105/205, they are faster but also more difficult to use (some would disagree). I think with the HT pads and the WG combo you would be very happy with the results. and as Cee Dog said.......:welcome:

 

[Phinox]

I would go with the Wolfgang Twins, Wolfgang total swirl remover and Wolfgang finishing glaze. These two products are excellent and very forgiving with a long work time. This makes them very begginer friendly. as far as pads i would say a CCS 5.5 orange pad and a white one.

Orange for the TSR and white for the FG.

 

[Streetmagus]

Thank you all for the great responses. I feel very welcome

I understand I threw a lot in there at once, I originally just wanted to ask what products are recommended and if I had the correct pads but as I wrote I had more questions. Forgive me

I have 2 gray and 2 white pads. Is that enough? So I should get the orange pad in smaller size.

I will take pictures of the little specks I'm talking about and post them tomorrow. It is night out right now an so I will not be able to capture it.

I'll look into those products recommended. What about Collinite 845? From searching it seems like a great product.

 

[Buckskincolt]

Thank you all for the great responses. I feel very welcome

I understand I threw a lot in there at once, I originally just wanted to ask what products are recommended and if I had the correct pads but as I wrote I had more questions. Forgive me

I have 2 gray and 2 white pads. Is that enough? So I should get the orange pad in smaller size.

The white will be great for the WG finish Glaze but the gray would be good for LSP application or Jeweling. You will need a pad that has more cut for the first polishing step. The CCS orange in 5.5" would be great but I would urge you to take a look at the cayan lake country Hydro-tech pads in 5.5".

I'll look into those products recommended. What about Collinite 845? From searching it seems like a great product.

I have never used the C 845, it gets rave reviews but also gets knocked for being difficult to buff off, I'm lazy so I have never tried it. Just some others you might take a look @ dp-poli-coat-paint-sealant or Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection. If you want a wipe on walk away product try Ultima Paint Guard Plus.:buffing:

http://www.autogeek.net/ultima-paint-guard-plus.html

 

[ScottB]

you are very correct in that manufacturers use product names and type of product interchangably which can get confusing. You really need to study what they suggest it can do in directions to understand what it really is .... or ask here, we are all happy to help !

 

[Streetmagus]

Here are the picture of the car's paint. It doesn't look that bad in the pictures, but when you get up close there are noticeable oxidation in some areas, all over are swirl marks.
The last picture is of those small black specks I was talking about earlier. I tried Tarminator from Kragen, I forgot the manufacturer, but I assume its the right one. Some dots did go away, the bigger ones. The smaller ones seem to be really stuck on there.

 

[Buckskincolt]

Here are the picture of the car's paint. It doesn't look that bad in the pictures, but when you get up close there are noticeable oxidation in some areas, all over are swirl marks.
The last picture is of those small black specks I was talking about earlier. I tried Tarminator from Kragen, I forgot the manufacturer, but I assume its the right one. Some dots did go away, the bigger ones. The smaller ones seem to be really stuck on there.

So can you feel the black spots on the surface of the paint? If you can you will want to clay the car to clean the paint surface before you polish. You will want to do this anyway if you never have. here is a video that shows you how and what to use. How to use a Clay Bar

 

[Streetmagus]

So can you feel the black spots on the surface of the paint? If you can you will want to clay the car to clean the paint surface before you polish. You will want to do this anyway if you never have. here is a video that shows you how and what to use. How to use a Clay Bar

Yes, the larger black spots if I try to scratch it off I can. The smaller ones are so small I can't scratch it. Even if I scratch the larger ones off they sometimes leave a residue which is a brownish color that I can't scratch off.
I have clayed my car before, I guess I did a terrible job since these spots stayed. I clayed until the car felt very smooth and the clayed glided effortlessly.

I should have made more passes even after surface became real smooth? It felt like the clay wasn't picking up anything anymore and wasn't getting dirty

 

[Buckskincolt]

Yes, the larger black spots if I try to scratch it off I can. The smaller ones are so small I can't scratch it. Even if I scratch the larger ones off they sometimes leave a residue which is a brownish color that I can't scratch off.
I have clayed my car before, I guess I did a terrible job since these spots stayed. I clayed until the car felt very smooth and the clayed glided effortlessly.

I should have made more passes even after surface became real smooth? It felt like the clay wasn't picking up anything anymore and wasn't getting dirty

If you can feel it clay should get it? looks like paint over spray or tar spots both Clay should remove. We will see if anyone else chimes in:dunno:

 

[Silverstone]

Also try not to scratch your paint (fingernail), clear coat is very soft. Before I knew this I rubbed a spot with my finger to see if it was in or on the paint. The car wasn't 100% clean and so I scratched the hell out of it.

I'm a noob too and after reading all the how-to's I could find I used Menzerna Intensive polish (Orange pad) and Micro polish (white pad) with excellent results. Followed by Wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant - I love that stuff. it goes on and off easy, lasts a long time and really does put on a deep looking gloss.
. I did my GF's white nissan the same way and it too shines like new, or better.

But like I said I'm new to this so listen to these other guys first.

 

[Streetmagus]

Alright, so I went out there today to test a more dedicated clay barring approach. I started claying an area to see if the dots will go away and they did! Im the MAN

I had to make a lot more passes with the claybar, kind of like an eraser...of course I didn't use much pressure, but simply moving back and forth like an eraser and the little dots got smaller and smaller until eventually they disappeared.

My whole car is covered with these tiny specks, it looks like I'm going to have to dedicate a few hours to claying before I can start polishing :buffing:

I still haven't decided what to use, perhaps go with the Wolfgang swirl remover and then follow up with a glaze then throw the wax on there.

I want to achieve a really "wet" look, is that the wax that does that?

 

[Buckskincolt]

Alright, so I went out there today to test a more dedicated clay barring approach. I started claying an area to see if the dots will go away and they did! Im the MAN

I had to make a lot more passes with the claybar, kind of like an eraser...of course I didn't use much pressure, but simply moving back and forth like an eraser and the little dots got smaller and smaller until eventually they disappeared.

My whole car is covered with these tiny specks, it looks like I'm going to have to dedicate a few hours to claying before I can start polishing :buffing:

I still haven't decided what to use, perhaps go with the Wolfgang swirl remover and then follow up with a glaze then throw the wax on there.

So you might try a ipa (isopropyl alcohol) wipe on those spots. If it's pich or tar it might take it off faster.

I want to achieve a really "wet" look, is that the wax that does that?

There is a question that will get you lots of answers. How much do you want to spend? A very good top of the line wax like Pinnacle Souverän™ Carnauba Paste Wax is awesome but $95. My affordable favorite is DP Max-Wax @ $35. But the list is very large and varies by user and budget. The WG Combo is again my fav but spendy for polishes.:buffing:

 

[Streetmagus]

There is a question that will get you lots of answers. How much do you want to spend? A very good top of the line wax like Pinnacle Souverän™ Carnauba Paste Wax is awesome but $95. My affordable favorite is DP Max-Wax @ $35. But the list is very large and varies by user and budget. The WG Combo is again my fav but spendy for polishes.:buffing:

Well, considering taking it to a detailer for a one-time detail could run atleast $125+ I don't think it'll be a bad investment.
I've never worked with a paste wax before, so how is the Souveran Paste Wax compared to the Liquid Souveran Paste Wax? The Liquid version is about $40. I wouldn't mind paying that much for for a quality wax. I'll probably go with the Liquid version. Are they user-friendly?