Prep for polishing questions....

Rez90

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I'm trying to get a handle on this.

I want to polish my corvette. and i think i'm going to start tomorrow.

The car is clean. Like CLEAN. worst case scenario it needs a quick mist of 425 to remove the dust. The car does have protection on it. I think the last thing i used on it was 845.

Here's my question. I want to polish one panel at a time. probably over a few days.

Do i need to strip the wax off of the car using a car wash such as CG Citrus Wash? Or can i just do an IPA wipedown a couple of times on the panel i'm going to work on...clay....polish...and re protect?

I'm just trying to figure this out because it may take a week or so to polish the whole car because time is a major restraint for me. And i'd like to drive it in between

And i was always under the impression that you have to strip whatever's on the surface using a wash.

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
 
The clay and whatever polish you use is going to strip the wax.
 
So if the car is clean....I don't need to worry about doing a wash to strip wax...

IPA and Clay is all i need.

Thank you.
 
I'm trying to get a handle on this.

I want to polish my corvette. and i think i'm going to start tomorrow.

The car is clean. Like CLEAN. worst case scenario it needs a quick mist of 425 to remove the dust. The car does have protection on it. I think the last thing i used on it was 845.

Here's my question. I want to polish one panel at a time. probably over a few days.

Do i need to strip the wax off of the car using a car wash such as CG Citrus Wash? Or can i just do an IPA wipedown a couple of times on the panel i'm going to work on...clay....polish...and re protect?

I'm just trying to figure this out because it may take a week or so to polish the whole car because time is a major restraint for me. And i'd like to drive it in between

And i was always under the impression that you have to strip whatever's on the surface using a wash.

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
I always wash before claying or polishing. I don't want to grind dirt and grit into my paint.

Citrus wash or Dawn at higher concentrations should do a good job of stripping wax if that is your objective. I personally like Citrus Wash for paint prep but Dawn is cheap. I use an IPA wipedown between polish and LSP to check my correction and remove polish residue especially if I am using a sealant.

If you are polishing, polishing will remove the old wax so an IPA wipedown and a strong detergent like Citrus Wash are probably not necessary to remove the old wax. I'll let others chime in if they think that I'm off base.

Since you are polishing one area at a time and want to drive the car between stages, you might consider using Optimum No Rinse to wash the panels and surrounding areas of paint that you plan to polish that day. ONR won't strip the old wax, but you will have a clean surface for claying and polish.

I personally would put protection on the freshly polished paint, even temporarily, if you are driving the car. I wouldn't want tar, dirt, water spots, bird droppings and grit to stick to my unprotected, freshly polished paint. Once you complete polishing all panels, the car would have some type of protection over the entire car even if done one panel at a time.

You then have a few options, 1) Drive the car with the applied protection, 2) wash the entire car with Citrus Wash or Dawn to remove the temporary LSP (an IPA wipedown might be a good additional step too), then apply your permanent LSP, or 3) wash the car and put another layer of the LSP that you had been using.

Good luck!
 
Do not use Mineral spirits, it contains oils and defeats the purpose of doing a solvent type wipe down to remove polish residue.
 
if I mix 75% IPA and 25% water in a spray bottle it is correct??
fews weeks ago after make a 5 steps on the girlfriend car I just wash the car with carsoap before waxing and is make a great job.
 
Don't need to make it complicated. If the car is clean then clay, polish, ipa wipedown then seal. Doing one panel at a time isn't a problem either. Not convinced Citrus Wash is the product to use to strip old LSP either. It will simply replace it with its own Gloss Enhancers.
 
Don't need to make it complicated. If the car is clean then clay, polish, ipa wipedown then seal. Doing one panel at a time isn't a problem either. Not convinced Citrus Wash is the product to use to strip old LSP either. It will simply replace it with its own Gloss Enhancers.
Working "clean" was drilled into my head years ago, and maybe I've made it too complicated and spent unnecessary time when polishing or preparing paint for wax.

When is a car "clean" enough to skip a hose and bucket or no rinse wash before claying and polishing even if it is a daily driver?

Thanks!
 
When is a car "clean" enough to skip a hose and bucket or no rinse wash before claying and polishing even if it is a daily driver?

Thanks!


You need to evaluate the condition of the finish...

Spray Detailers, or Quick Detailers are for removing

  • Light dust
  • Fingerprints
  • Smudges
If the dust on you car is a film and not a dust that will blow off with a strong breath of air then you should probably consider a Waterless Wash.

Here's 3 related articles...

Spray Detailers
Tips & Techniques for using a Spray Detailer to Remove Light Dust, Fingerprints and Smudges



Car Washing
How dirty is too dirty to safely use a rinseless wash?
The difference between a Normal Car Wash, a Waterless Car Wash, a Rinseless Car Wash and a Spray Detailer





:)
 
if I mix 75% IPA and 25% water in a spray bottle it is correct??
fews weeks ago after make a 5 steps on the girlfriend car I just wash the car with carsoap before waxing and is make a great job.
If you want to make a 50% v/v solution, you would use 1 part distilled water (33% of final volume) and 2 parts 75% isopropyl alcohol (67% of final volume).

I use a $0.98 Home Depot spray bottle for my IPA which should be fine since IPA shouldn't corrode internal parts of the sprayer.
 
You need to evaluate the condition of the finish...

Spray Detailers, or Quick Detailers are for removing

  • Light dust
  • Fingerprints
  • Smudges
If the dust on you car is a film and not a dust that will blow off with a strong breath of air then you should probably consider a Waterless Wash.

Here's 3 related articles...

Spray Detailers
Tips & Techniques for using a Spray Detailer to Remove Light Dust, Fingerprints and Smudges



Car Washing
How dirty is too dirty to safely use a rinseless wash?
The difference between a Normal Car Wash, a Waterless Car Wash, a Rinseless Car Wash and a Spray Detailer





:)
Thanks Mike.

While I know that the polishing step should remove swirls and light defects, I don't want to introduce any more damage than necessary.

I think that I'm going to stick with a hose and bucket or ONR wash before claying and polishing, if I've been driving the car.

If the car is in the garage for the night, does it make sense to wipe it down with a QD and MF to remove dust before claying or just move forward.
 
Yes... especially if you can see visible dust on the horizontal surfaces...

It's important to work clean, especially when you're working on a nice finish to start with...


:)
I guess I will remain a clean freak...:cool:

Related questions:

Some QDs have silicones, polymers and gloss enhancers in them.
1) Is there a better QD (or worse type) when wiping down paint before polishing?
a) Let's say that I clayed last night and want to polish in the AM.
b) Should I consider an IPA, MS or APC wipedown too?
2) Is there a better QD (or worse type) before adding another coat of sealant?

For instance, if one has a coat of DGPS3.0 on the vehicle and wants to add another, will a QD affect binding of the sealant for a second coat? I understand that some sealants (like Zaino) are very finicky about paint prep and they need their own specific cleaner.

3) Do any clay lube residues compromise a polishes performance?
a) Do LSPs remain after claying and do they compromise some polishes?

4) Is there value to using Dawn or a citrus based car wash to help strip LSPs before claying and polishing over a traditional "hose 'n bucket" or "No Rinse" car wash?
a) How about before claying and then using a paint cleaner instead of correction?
b) Do car wash gloss enhancers affect LSP performance?
 
Related questions:

Some QDs have silicones, polymers and gloss enhancers in them.

1) Is there a better QD (or worse type) when wiping down paint before polishing?

a) Let's say that I clayed last night and want to polish in the AM.
b) Should I consider an IPA, MS or APC wipedown too?

If you want to get down to the nitty gritty... then in a perfect world you wouldn't add unnecessary "substances" to the finish before compounding or polishing and yes they can affect the process... at least till you've abraded them off the paint.

I don't have a list of virgin spray detailers, don't know if one exists... Meguiar's M34 is "Body Shop Safe", this means there are no ingredients in the formula that would cause surface adhesion problems in a fresh paint environment.

Another way of saying this is that it won't contain the types of ingredients that could negatively affect the polishing process.



2) Is there a better QD (or worse type) before adding another coat of sealant?

At this level you're going to go deep into chemistry and while I'm just as interested in chemistry as anyone I've also experienced how on detailing discussion forums the trend is always to take something very simple and make it very complicated.

Don't get too hung up on the minutiua... if you end up getting some M34 Final Inspection then for the reasons listed above... use it to wipe any dust off your car's paint and apply the next coat of wax or sealant...

KISS = Keep It Simple Simon

:laughing:

For instance, if one has a coat of DGPS3.0 on the vehicle and wants to add another, will a QD affect binding of the sealant for a second coat? I understand that some sealants (like Zaino) are very finicky about paint prep and they need their own specific cleaner.
[/quote]

Too much is made of the bonding issue...

Follow the manufactures directions but don't over-complicate waxing a car.


3) Do any clay lube residues compromise a polishes performance?

They shouldn't but you would have to know exactly what's inside the bottle and wax companies are not very good at sharing propriety information and MSD sheets are not formulas.

Serioiusly... in the big picture, even if a clay lube were to impart some type of "substance" onto the finish, a pass or two with just about any polish and pad is going to obliterate the substance right off the paint...

a) Do LSPs remain after claying and do they compromise some polishes?

The only way to answer this is to say that claying will remove some of the wax or sealant on the surface. Claying certainly won't "Add" wax... what's the opposite of adding?

Again... a pass or two with just about any polish and pad is going to obliterate the substance right off the paint...




4) Is there value to using Dawn or a citrus based car wash to help strip LSPs before claying and polishing over a traditional "hose 'n bucket" or "No Rinse" car wash?

Some people think so. Some waxes and/or paint sealants are detergent resistant so who knows what's taking place at the atomic level on the surface of your car's paint.

a) How about before claying and then using a paint cleaner instead of correction?

Sure... wash the car, clay the paint, use a paint cleaner and by the time you're done the paint should be squeaky clean...

b) Do car wash gloss enhancers affect LSP performance?

Everything effects everything... but I would recommend that all these little tiny details matter less than just going out into the garage and polish the car and keep it simple...

Mike Phillips said:
I've also experienced how on detailing discussion forums the trend is always to take something very simple and make it very complicated.

The trend continues...

It's all good...


:xyxthumbs:
 
Thank you Mike!

Yeah, I think we often make it more difficult than necessary. I appreciate how much I have learned from you, so keeping it simple is always welcome.

Doesn't sound like it really makes much difference for the most part, but "maybe" M34 "might" be better in some cases. I have both M34 and gloss enhancing QDs in my collection. I can use the "slick" and "gloss enhancing" QD's post-LSP steps.

Thanks again.
 
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