Poorboy's pro polish 2 question

Dr Oldz

Dr Oldz

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Should PP2 be followed up by Pro Polish or can you go right to a glaze then sealant/wax?
 
Dr Oldz said:
Should PP2 be followed up by Pro Polish or can you go right to a glaze then sealant/wax?
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that really would depend on the color of the car, the machine, pad and user ... PP2 is pretty aggressive and for the most part, I would follow with a fine polish like Pro Polish, PwS, PwC, SSR1 or another finishing polish
 
I guess I'm not understanding how/where this fits in your line, originally I thought it was going to replace the original Pro Polish...under what circumstances would you use this instead of say, SSR2 or 2.5?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I guess I'm not understanding how/where this fits in your line, originally I thought it was going to replace the original Pro Polish...under what circumstances would you use this instead of say, SSR2 or 2.5?
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The Pro Polish is a chemical paint cleaner and for oxidation that is pad dependent . By using the correct pad combo it can clean or remove paint defects, even up to 1200 sanding marks with a rotary and wool. PP2 adds abrasives into the equation for getting at deeper paint cleaning, especially when going after Water spots or bird etchings. The SSR's are purely mechanical for polishing and leveling depending on the SSR.
 
Thanks Steve...that certainly straightened me out on the differences between the PP and SSR lines...but all things being equal, and the PP has both chemical and mechanical (in the PP2), why wouldn't I just use that for everything instead of SSR's? Doesn't having both give you the best of both worlds? Not that I don't want to have more Poorboy's on my shelf, but I'm running out of room...
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Thanks Steve...that certainly straightened me out on the differences between the PP and SSR lines...but all things being equal, and the PP has both chemical and mechanical (in the PP2), why wouldn't I just use that for everything instead of SSR's? Doesn't having both give you the best of both worlds? Not that I don't want to have more Poorboy's on my shelf, but I'm running out of room...
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I guess the biggest difference, that maybe I didn't really discuss, is the SSR's except SSR3 were made to be PC user friendly when they were designed and the PP and PP2 work best on a rotary or Flex where more heat is generated. The PP and PP2 also can be very effective by hand (our best seller at shows) with a cotton or terry cloth as the catalyst to produce heat.
 
Poorboy said:
that really would depend on the color of the car, the machine, pad and user ... PP2 is pretty aggressive and for the most part, I would follow with a fine polish like Pro Polish, PwS, PwC, SSR1 or another finishing polish
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Thanks for the response! I figured it would be best to follow up with PP although the AG website's makes it seem as if u don't.....thats y I am loving these forums to ask questions!!!! Im glad to hear that U label it as "pretty aggressive". Purchased this to try it out...always looking for something new in my collection!! I have a vehicle in mind for this product! Thanks again!!
 
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