Headlight Restoration- Attempted, need help

[AdrenalineJunky]

I attempted to restore headlights on a 04' Honda Accord. The lights were cloudy and showing some yellow haze. This was my process:

1) Cleaned w/glass cleaner
2) Masked off around headlights
3) 1500 grit wet/sand sponge w/DP clay lube (maybe for 2-3mins), then wiped clean
4) 1000 grit wet/sand sponge w/DP clay lube (maybe for 2-3mins), then wiped clean
5) M105 w/4" CCS Orange w/7424XP, wiped clean
6) M205 w/4" CCS White w/7424xp, wiped clean
7) DP Wax w/ 4"CCS Blue w/7424xp, wiped clean
8) Duragloss Aquawax Spray, wiped clean

There was an improvement in clarity. There are still some horizontal scratch marks, little pits, and what looks like partially missing clear layers.

Is there anything that I did incorrectly? What would be needed for better correction?

 

[Rsurfer]

I hope you meant 1000 grit was before 1500 grit.

 

[rohnramirez]

I can only think of two things right now, im sure the others have something to add.

1 - you should've started with the lowest grit; 1000 then 1500 then 2000, if the pits didn't come out from the 1000, you can try 800 first. Higher grits will remove the lower grit sandmarks. After compounding, if sandmarks still persist from the 2000 grit, you can use 2500grit then try compounding again.

2 - try using a drill instead of a DA. Headlights are pretty small, and it would be very hard to take out sanding marks around the edges when the pad is oscillating.

 

[Tyrod]

try using water instead of clay lube. The clay lube may be too slick. Also, the layering you see is prolly the factory UV protectant layer coming off.

I did an 05 Hyundai that was so bad it needed 400 grit to start with. I ended the sanding process with 3000 grit then Menzerna SIP P083 and then SuperFinish PO106FA.

 

[AdrenalineJunky]

I hope you meant 1000 grit was before 1500 grit.

That is what I meant to say. However the sponges I used were only labeled by the package. I assumed they had markings on each and I got the two mixed up. Would there be an easy way to tell which is which?

 

[AdrenalineJunky]

I can only think of two things right now, im sure the others have something to add.

1 - you should've started with the lowest grit; 1000 then 1500 then 2000, if the pits didn't come out from the 1000, you can try 800 first. Higher grits will remove the lower grit sandmarks. After compounding, if sandmarks still persist from the 2000 grit, you can use 2500grit then try compounding again.

2 - try using a drill instead of a DA. Headlights are pretty small, and it would be very hard to take out sanding marks around the edges when the pad is oscillating.

I'm debating if I should give it another whirl. What kind of attachment do I need to use a drill?

 

[AdrenalineJunky]

try using water instead of clay lube. The clay lube may be too slick. Also, the layering you see is prolly the factory UV protectant layer coming off.

I did an 05 Hyundai that was so bad it needed 400 grit to start with. I ended the sanding process with 3000 grit then Menzerna SIP P083 and then SuperFinish PO106FA.

Water that sounds good, much cheaper. Should I be concerned with the UV protectant coming off?

Does the sandpaper come in wet/dry or any sandpaper will do? Where do you usually find the paper?

 

[rwright]

Watch the video found on this page.

 

[GaryD]

well, for someone new to headlight restoration, the 3M kit is pretty simple to use, good directions. You could then come up with your own routine of doing headlight restoration. I'm just saying its a good starting place, the kit works good, takes you through all the steps. U just been given good advise up above.

 

[William D.]

A drill works great. I use an old 70's Sears electric drill with an old Mother's Powerball pad to clear up headlights, and they look crazy good after. Coat with some Liquid Glass, and top it with a wax, and I'm good for quite a while (with a coat of wax every now and then.)

 

[rohnramirez]

I'm debating if I should give it another whirl. What kind of attachment do I need to use a drill?

You can still use your 3" BP, just get the drill attachment from AG - Spot Buffs Drill Adapter

Don't be hesitant, believe in your potential. Everyone started from not knowing. I'm positive once you get the hang of it, you will be able to create your own style by enhancing your skills.

Water that sounds good, much cheaper. Should I be concerned with the UV protectant coming off?

Does the sandpaper come in wet/dry or any sandpaper will do? Where do you usually find the paper?

I just use soapy water, not too much soap just enough for lubrication. Suds will make it difficult for you to see the area while you are sanding. A simple tip when sanding, check your progress every 15-20 strokes, you want to restore the headlights while removing the least amount of plastic.

I only use cheap sandpaper, and it still works like a charm. To make sure you don't mix the sandpapers, toss them into separate buckets of soapy water. To tell the different grits is to feel it, the color (higher grits are lighter in color), the marks at the back. Do you guys have wet sandpapers there? Good luck my friend.

 

[g35_coupe]

3) 1000 grit wet/sand sponge w/DP clay lube (maybe for 2-3mins), then wiped clean
4) 1500 grit wet/sand sponge w/DP clay lube (maybe for 2-3mins), then wiped clean

Insufficient time may be your problem. I usually wetsand for 5-10 mins each grade. Wetsanding is the most important part and the more effort put into this stage will render greater results.