Review: Wolfgang Füzion Carnauba Polymer Estate Wax
- Thread starter AndrewBall
- Start date
Dwayne
New member
- May 17, 2006
- 722
- 0
As you mentioned in post #73, sitting in the garage is fine so if it is just happening when driving down the brother in laws gravel driveway you would really needed to have one side of the hood with Fuzion and one side with another product to do a fair comparison. There are just too many variables such as one time you went it may have just rained the day before or an hour before, another time it may have not rained in weeks. Might have been a lot of ash in the air if during the cooler months too. Cars do get dirty when you drive them. Sometimes they get dirtier than other times depending on the conditions. Hope this helps.
Dubbin1
Active member
- May 28, 2009
- 3,845
- 0
Its dry dust, it pretty much rinses off with waterSorry I know that's not the answer you were looking for but its the best I got.
edit: someone deleted their post I was replying to
Ooops, sorry, I was editing my "how well does Fuzion come clean versus others" post. I got distracted/busy and just hit delete to come back and repost later and you caught me... Thanks for the reply. :xyxthumbs:
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Here's something on the topic of static electricity and Dust Attraction to your Car's Paint. See the portion of text I formatted to be red.
Static Electricity and Dust Attraction to your Car's Paint
The below is taken from this website, due credit where credit is due.
The origin and Source of Electricity
Atoms are made up of electrons and a nucleus.
Question: What is an Atom and What is a Nucleus?
Answer: The nucleus is made up of neutrons, (no charge) and positively charged protons, leaving it with a net positive charge.
An atom, at the simplest level, can be thought as a mini version of the solar system, with the nucleus like the Sun, and the electrons going around the nucleus, like the planets.
The electrons move around the nucleus because they are attracted to the nucleus because positive charges attract negative charges (opposites attract).
An atom has an equal number of positively charged protons, and negatively charged electrons, leaving it neutral.
You will notice this when you rub a balloon against your hair, like this boy:
Rubbing the balloon against your hair removes electrons from the atoms of your hair, where they migrate to the atoms of the balloon. This leaves the balloon negative and your hair positive, which leads to the attraction of the hair to the balloon.
~~~~~~~~~~~
End of article
~~~~~~~~~~~
The problem of waxing your car and dust attraction
The topic of dust attraction to car paint comes up often and the usual trend of the thread is to lean towards people looking for products they can apply that will reduce and even prevent dust attraction.
The way this would be done is by creating a neutral electric charge to the surface of the paint. Sounds simple... so how would a person do this?
Answer: It's pretty much technologically impossible to do, (at this time), and drive the car in the real world.
First, I'm not a chemist but I've been told by a chemist that the resin used to make clear coat paints in and of itself has a high static charge. That's not a charge that's on the paint, that's a static charge that's in the paint. So it's pretty hard to change the charge of your car's finish without removing the paint, which defeats the purpose of polishing and waxing your car to make it look great.
Second, even if you could create a resin with a neutral charge, the dust, dirt and air-borne contaminant in the air, that fall and land on your precious baby have their own electrical or static charge and you and I cannot wave a wand and remove all the static electrical charge out of all the dust in the air in the world, or at least the part of the world that you drive and park your car.
With current technology with both surface coatings and car appearance products, there's not a lot you can do to 100% prevent dust accumulation because the problem is with two things you cannot change,
Professionally and as a curious detailer I've done numerous wax test over the years. My background has given me the opportunity to see how chemists and others would test a wax and from this experience I've followed their procedures and came up with a few of my own tests.
It all starts with a controls
Anytime you're testing, you have to have "controls" in place in order to measure or gauge against. A good control is a factor that can remain a constant throughout a single test or multiple tests.
The best test panels
A painted car hood or trunk lid usually works well as a control but generally speaking, it's important that the painted panel be factory sprayed paint as this is what the majority of your readers will be working on.
Old School Solvent Evaporation Lacquer
Sometimes I will test on straight, solvent-evaporation single stage black lacquer because it's the best test for things like a dulling-effect, scratching and sub-surface staining.
I have a test panel that's actually a table with a sheet of plywood mounted to it and hinged, and on top of the plywood is glued a sheet of sheetmetal. The sheetmetal surface is divided equally into two parts, on half is a basecoat/clearcoat paint system and the other half is single stage, lacquer paint.
One time there was a product about to be introduced and I was told the product had the "Green Light" to go into production. I looked at the product and the first thing I thought of was to test it on the lacquer paint. I knew everyone else was testing the product on modern, clear coats and the results were good. I tested the product on both sides of my test table and sure enough, it scratched the heck out of the lacquer paint. I took on picture, filed a report and the new product was dead in the water never to be resurrected again.
The point being that while generally speaking modern clear coats are harder than old fashioned solvent-evaporation single stage paints, there are some modern clear coat formulas where the paint is actually very soft and you can scratch it just by looking at it the wrong way and when you bring out a new product you have to have assurance that the product will work on the widest spectrum of known paints.
KISS = Keep it Simple Simon
A basic test is to completely clean and strip a painted finish down to a "Fresh Base" this can be done by compounding the finish to absolutely remove any previously applied products and then chemically stripping the freshly compounded finish to remove any residues left by the compounding process. The resulting finish will be a virgin top coat to test on.
The next thing you would do is to use some painter's tape to tape off defined square areas for which to apply the products to be tested. You can test a single product but for comparison testing you would usually want to test at least two or more products side by side.
Flat is Best
The best test panel is a black clear coated surface like a car hood or trunk lid. The reason for this is because you don't want any curves to interfere visually with your inspection, so a flat surface is important.
Paint it black -The Rolling Stones
Black basecoat/clearcoat paint is the hands-down best color and type of paint to test on because black shows everything, in other words, the human eye is able to discern defects and changes in before and after best on black paint because it's the extreme on one end of the color spectrum. White would be the worst and of course, it's the other extreme on the color spectrum.
With all the above in mind, all the testing I have done has been on black basecoat/clearcoat paint systems, using flat panels that you can look down on with controls in place to make documenting visual differences as easy as possible.
Without going into details about the brands and types of products I've tested, here's what I observed.
All clearly defined test sections that either waxes or paint sealants were applied to attracted more dust than the surrounding paint that was stripped to a virgin top coat.
Not some, not a few, not most, but all waxes and paint sealants.
Part of the problem is that static electricity is created by the act of you rubbing your hand over the finish with a clean, dry microfiber polishing cloth. This wiping action creates and imparts a static charge that attracts dust.
Since common sense tells you that after applying a wax or paint sealant you need to wipe it off using some kind of toweling, it's a given that some level of static electricity is going to be created to the finish by --> you <-- and there's nothing you can do about it except for not wax your car.
Not wax your car
Not waxing your car is not a solution because a coating of wax or a paint sealant does two primary things,
Not waxing your car just to avoid dust attraction is not a real world solution because most of us want to protect our car's paint so that it will last over the service life of the car and of course make the paint look good, which in effect makes the car look good, which extrapolated out to the finite degree makes us look good to some degree.
Apply or Die
So realistically speaking, you have to wash and wax your car regularly or your car's paint will deteriorate due to neglect and exposure to the environment plus wear-n-tear.
What can you you do?
Here's a few simple things you can do to help prevent dust accumulation.
Ground your car's body to a known good earth ground. Often times older houses will have a copper stake buried into the ground and then hooked up to the house via wiring.
If this is the case you can use something as simple as Jumper Cables to hook onto the car's frame and then attach the other end of the leads to a plumbing pipe or something similar that is metal and a major component of the house/garage.
Water Wipe-down
Water acts as a natural static electricity neutralizer. Wiping your car's highly polished paint with water is an anathema to most of us as we would never do anything that would increase the potential to inflict swirls or scratches into the paint.
Spray Detailers to the resuce...
Spray Detailers are mostly water plus ingredients that provide lubrication, gloss, slickness, shine and in some cases, protection.
So while you and I would never wipe our car down with a water soaked wet rag, we will gently and carefully wipe our car's finish down with a quality spray detailer and this will help to remove static electricity as well as make the paint look great!
Hope this helps...
__________________
Static Electricity and Dust Attraction to your Car's Paint
The below is taken from this website, due credit where credit is due.
The origin and Source of Electricity
Atoms are made up of electrons and a nucleus.
Question: What is an Atom and What is a Nucleus?
Answer: The nucleus is made up of neutrons, (no charge) and positively charged protons, leaving it with a net positive charge.
An atom, at the simplest level, can be thought as a mini version of the solar system, with the nucleus like the Sun, and the electrons going around the nucleus, like the planets.
The electrons move around the nucleus because they are attracted to the nucleus because positive charges attract negative charges (opposites attract).
An atom has an equal number of positively charged protons, and negatively charged electrons, leaving it neutral.
Question: What would happen if we removed some of the electrons from the atom?
Answer: This would leave the atom with a net positive charge, leading to static electricity.
Answer: This would leave the atom with a net positive charge, leading to static electricity.
Rubbing the balloon against your hair removes electrons from the atoms of your hair, where they migrate to the atoms of the balloon. This leaves the balloon negative and your hair positive, which leads to the attraction of the hair to the balloon.
~~~~~~~~~~~
End of article
~~~~~~~~~~~
The problem of waxing your car and dust attraction
The topic of dust attraction to car paint comes up often and the usual trend of the thread is to lean towards people looking for products they can apply that will reduce and even prevent dust attraction.
The way this would be done is by creating a neutral electric charge to the surface of the paint. Sounds simple... so how would a person do this?
Answer: It's pretty much technologically impossible to do, (at this time), and drive the car in the real world.
First, I'm not a chemist but I've been told by a chemist that the resin used to make clear coat paints in and of itself has a high static charge. That's not a charge that's on the paint, that's a static charge that's in the paint. So it's pretty hard to change the charge of your car's finish without removing the paint, which defeats the purpose of polishing and waxing your car to make it look great.
Second, even if you could create a resin with a neutral charge, the dust, dirt and air-borne contaminant in the air, that fall and land on your precious baby have their own electrical or static charge and you and I cannot wave a wand and remove all the static electrical charge out of all the dust in the air in the world, or at least the part of the world that you drive and park your car.
With current technology with both surface coatings and car appearance products, there's not a lot you can do to 100% prevent dust accumulation because the problem is with two things you cannot change,
- Your car's paint
- The dust and air-borne contaminants in the air around your car
Professionally and as a curious detailer I've done numerous wax test over the years. My background has given me the opportunity to see how chemists and others would test a wax and from this experience I've followed their procedures and came up with a few of my own tests.
It all starts with a controls
Anytime you're testing, you have to have "controls" in place in order to measure or gauge against. A good control is a factor that can remain a constant throughout a single test or multiple tests.
The best test panels
A painted car hood or trunk lid usually works well as a control but generally speaking, it's important that the painted panel be factory sprayed paint as this is what the majority of your readers will be working on.
Old School Solvent Evaporation Lacquer
Sometimes I will test on straight, solvent-evaporation single stage black lacquer because it's the best test for things like a dulling-effect, scratching and sub-surface staining.
I have a test panel that's actually a table with a sheet of plywood mounted to it and hinged, and on top of the plywood is glued a sheet of sheetmetal. The sheetmetal surface is divided equally into two parts, on half is a basecoat/clearcoat paint system and the other half is single stage, lacquer paint.
One time there was a product about to be introduced and I was told the product had the "Green Light" to go into production. I looked at the product and the first thing I thought of was to test it on the lacquer paint. I knew everyone else was testing the product on modern, clear coats and the results were good. I tested the product on both sides of my test table and sure enough, it scratched the heck out of the lacquer paint. I took on picture, filed a report and the new product was dead in the water never to be resurrected again.
The point being that while generally speaking modern clear coats are harder than old fashioned solvent-evaporation single stage paints, there are some modern clear coat formulas where the paint is actually very soft and you can scratch it just by looking at it the wrong way and when you bring out a new product you have to have assurance that the product will work on the widest spectrum of known paints.
KISS = Keep it Simple Simon
A basic test is to completely clean and strip a painted finish down to a "Fresh Base" this can be done by compounding the finish to absolutely remove any previously applied products and then chemically stripping the freshly compounded finish to remove any residues left by the compounding process. The resulting finish will be a virgin top coat to test on.
The next thing you would do is to use some painter's tape to tape off defined square areas for which to apply the products to be tested. You can test a single product but for comparison testing you would usually want to test at least two or more products side by side.
Flat is Best
The best test panel is a black clear coated surface like a car hood or trunk lid. The reason for this is because you don't want any curves to interfere visually with your inspection, so a flat surface is important.
Paint it black -The Rolling Stones
Black basecoat/clearcoat paint is the hands-down best color and type of paint to test on because black shows everything, in other words, the human eye is able to discern defects and changes in before and after best on black paint because it's the extreme on one end of the color spectrum. White would be the worst and of course, it's the other extreme on the color spectrum.
With all the above in mind, all the testing I have done has been on black basecoat/clearcoat paint systems, using flat panels that you can look down on with controls in place to make documenting visual differences as easy as possible.
Without going into details about the brands and types of products I've tested, here's what I observed.
All clearly defined test sections that either waxes or paint sealants were applied to attracted more dust than the surrounding paint that was stripped to a virgin top coat.
Not some, not a few, not most, but all waxes and paint sealants.
Part of the problem is that static electricity is created by the act of you rubbing your hand over the finish with a clean, dry microfiber polishing cloth. This wiping action creates and imparts a static charge that attracts dust.
Since common sense tells you that after applying a wax or paint sealant you need to wipe it off using some kind of toweling, it's a given that some level of static electricity is going to be created to the finish by --> you <-- and there's nothing you can do about it except for not wax your car.
Not wax your car
Not waxing your car is not a solution because a coating of wax or a paint sealant does two primary things,
- The primary purpose of a car wax or synthetic paint sealant is to act as a sacrificial barrier coating over the surface of your car’s paint.
- An application of a quality car wax or paint sealant makes the paint look good.
Not waxing your car just to avoid dust attraction is not a real world solution because most of us want to protect our car's paint so that it will last over the service life of the car and of course make the paint look good, which in effect makes the car look good, which extrapolated out to the finite degree makes us look good to some degree.
Apply or Die
So realistically speaking, you have to wash and wax your car regularly or your car's paint will deteriorate due to neglect and exposure to the environment plus wear-n-tear.
What can you you do?
Here's a few simple things you can do to help prevent dust accumulation.
Ground your car's body to a known good earth ground. Often times older houses will have a copper stake buried into the ground and then hooked up to the house via wiring.
If this is the case you can use something as simple as Jumper Cables to hook onto the car's frame and then attach the other end of the leads to a plumbing pipe or something similar that is metal and a major component of the house/garage.
Water Wipe-down
Water acts as a natural static electricity neutralizer. Wiping your car's highly polished paint with water is an anathema to most of us as we would never do anything that would increase the potential to inflict swirls or scratches into the paint.
Spray Detailers to the resuce...
Spray Detailers are mostly water plus ingredients that provide lubrication, gloss, slickness, shine and in some cases, protection.
So while you and I would never wipe our car down with a water soaked wet rag, we will gently and carefully wipe our car's finish down with a quality spray detailer and this will help to remove static electricity as well as make the paint look great!
Hope this helps...
__________________
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
That's why it's important to,
"Find something you like and use it often"
A lot of people have read this quote in my Signature Line since the first time I started posting to the Internet which would be at least in 1994 on rec.autos.misc on the Usenet Newsgroups as that's where I started using it.
Here's the story behind that quote...
I was a guest speaker on the topic of polishing paint for two vintage car clubs in my home town of Albany, Oregon in about 1991 or 1992, these were the Enduring A's (a Ford Model A Club), and the Willamette Valley Model T Club.
Before my presentation, a Paint Instructor for PPG by the name of Jack Anderson was giving his presentation on the topic of using the proper products and techniques for painting cars using PPG paints.
I had met Jack a few times as our paths crossed in the paint, body and equipment industry as I was a Rep for Meguiar's at that time. Towards the end of his presentation he fielded questions and the last question asked was,
"What do you recommend for a car wax?
Now I don't know if the club member asked this question in jest to put Jack on the spot since the next speaker was me and I was going to be speaking about polishing paint using Meguiar's products or if it was a sincere question as they wanted his professional opinion on which brand of car wax to use after a person had done all the work it takes to paint a car using PPG paints.
Regardless of the intent, without missing a beat Jack smiled and replied,
"Find something you like and use it often"
He then went on to say that what he meant by this was as long as you're using a quality product that because most quality car waxes would do what they were supposed to do, that is leave a coating of protection and make the paint look good, that just as important, if not more important, was to actually wax the car and re-apply the wax on a regular basis to maintain the car's appearance. If a person actively maintains their car's paint with product that performs as claimed the paint would stay in good shape, last a long time and look good.
My hunch is that his underlying implication was that most people don't wax their car often enough but instead look for some kind of miracle, once-a-year wax because they're lazy or it's just not as important as they act like it is.
After explaining what he meant he did go on to say that he understood I was in the audience and because of his own position in the painting industry, he didn't want to get into a wax war, (his words), over which car wax was best and so that's why he always he avoided specific recommendations.
As I listened to him I thought this guy is really wise, not only does he avoid the entire topic of arguing which car wax is best his advice is sound and logical and if followed would work for any person on any car.
A few minutes later he stepped away from the podium and I gave my presentation.
Ever since that event, I admired his approach to handling a very common and often times heated topic so much, (What's the best car wax), that I borrowed his answer and have used it as a part of my signature line to this date.
I've been posting to discussion forums since discussion forums appeared in the form that we know them today, (vBulletin style), and even before vBulletin was released, (see this article), and one thing I've noticed is that the fastest way to get into a Flame War on a discussion forum is to bring up one of 3 topics,
There's something about sitting behind a keyboard and posting under an anonymous forum nickname that will cause guys to post something to a discussion forum that they would normally never say if they were in nose-punching distance from the other person.
So when you see me type,
"Find something you like and use it often"
Here's what that means,
If you like a product, that usually means you like the experience of using it which includes application, that is you like how the product applies. It also tends to mean you like how the product removes, that is you like how the product wipes-off. It can also mean you like how fast or slow it dries or the fact that it doesn't have to dry at all and you can wipe it off immediately.
And usually and most important, it means you like how it makes the paint on your car look and that's a huge part of the big picture of owning and enjoying your car, truck or s.u.v. or special interest car.
You can't really know which product you like best until you've used a variety of products so finding something you like and using it often means you have to do some research and at some point make some purchases and then go out into your garage and do some testing to gain real world knowledge and experience.
At some point you will find a product you like and if you use it often then your car's paint will always look good because it's only when you neglect your car's paint that it goes downhill.
Just the simple act of applying and working-in and over the paint a smooth, creamy product, (that is formulated to make paint look good), has a polishing-effect and if done on a regular basis will preserve and maintain a clear, glossy finish and isn't that the primary goal of those that consider them serious car enthusiasts?
How often you have to repeat this process to maintain your car's finish to a quality level you expect for your car's appearance depends upon how the car is used and where it's parked when not in use.
A daily driver that is parked outside most of the time, either at work or at home, will need to be maintained more regularly than a Garage Queen that is only driven on sunny days. So adjust your car maintenance schedule to fit your lifestyle and the way you use your car.
Anyway, that's the story behind the story and you ever read this Mr. Anderson, please give me a call or shoot me an e-mail, I've tried to contact you over the years but to no avail and would love to talk with you again. Last time we talked you were getting ready to wet-sand your 1957 Chevy and I volunteered to come over and lend a hand, the offer still stands.
"Find something you like and use it often"
A lot of people have read this quote in my Signature Line since the first time I started posting to the Internet which would be at least in 1994 on rec.autos.misc on the Usenet Newsgroups as that's where I started using it.
Here's the story behind that quote...
I was a guest speaker on the topic of polishing paint for two vintage car clubs in my home town of Albany, Oregon in about 1991 or 1992, these were the Enduring A's (a Ford Model A Club), and the Willamette Valley Model T Club.
Before my presentation, a Paint Instructor for PPG by the name of Jack Anderson was giving his presentation on the topic of using the proper products and techniques for painting cars using PPG paints.
I had met Jack a few times as our paths crossed in the paint, body and equipment industry as I was a Rep for Meguiar's at that time. Towards the end of his presentation he fielded questions and the last question asked was,
"What do you recommend for a car wax?
Now I don't know if the club member asked this question in jest to put Jack on the spot since the next speaker was me and I was going to be speaking about polishing paint using Meguiar's products or if it was a sincere question as they wanted his professional opinion on which brand of car wax to use after a person had done all the work it takes to paint a car using PPG paints.
Regardless of the intent, without missing a beat Jack smiled and replied,
"Find something you like and use it often"
He then went on to say that what he meant by this was as long as you're using a quality product that because most quality car waxes would do what they were supposed to do, that is leave a coating of protection and make the paint look good, that just as important, if not more important, was to actually wax the car and re-apply the wax on a regular basis to maintain the car's appearance. If a person actively maintains their car's paint with product that performs as claimed the paint would stay in good shape, last a long time and look good.
My hunch is that his underlying implication was that most people don't wax their car often enough but instead look for some kind of miracle, once-a-year wax because they're lazy or it's just not as important as they act like it is.
After explaining what he meant he did go on to say that he understood I was in the audience and because of his own position in the painting industry, he didn't want to get into a wax war, (his words), over which car wax was best and so that's why he always he avoided specific recommendations.
As I listened to him I thought this guy is really wise, not only does he avoid the entire topic of arguing which car wax is best his advice is sound and logical and if followed would work for any person on any car.
A few minutes later he stepped away from the podium and I gave my presentation.
Ever since that event, I admired his approach to handling a very common and often times heated topic so much, (What's the best car wax), that I borrowed his answer and have used it as a part of my signature line to this date.
I've been posting to discussion forums since discussion forums appeared in the form that we know them today, (vBulletin style), and even before vBulletin was released, (see this article), and one thing I've noticed is that the fastest way to get into a Flame War on a discussion forum is to bring up one of 3 topics,
- Politics
- Religion
- Car Wax
There's something about sitting behind a keyboard and posting under an anonymous forum nickname that will cause guys to post something to a discussion forum that they would normally never say if they were in nose-punching distance from the other person.
So when you see me type,
"Find something you like and use it often"
Here's what that means,
If you like a product, that usually means you like the experience of using it which includes application, that is you like how the product applies. It also tends to mean you like how the product removes, that is you like how the product wipes-off. It can also mean you like how fast or slow it dries or the fact that it doesn't have to dry at all and you can wipe it off immediately.
And usually and most important, it means you like how it makes the paint on your car look and that's a huge part of the big picture of owning and enjoying your car, truck or s.u.v. or special interest car.
You can't really know which product you like best until you've used a variety of products so finding something you like and using it often means you have to do some research and at some point make some purchases and then go out into your garage and do some testing to gain real world knowledge and experience.
At some point you will find a product you like and if you use it often then your car's paint will always look good because it's only when you neglect your car's paint that it goes downhill.
Just the simple act of applying and working-in and over the paint a smooth, creamy product, (that is formulated to make paint look good), has a polishing-effect and if done on a regular basis will preserve and maintain a clear, glossy finish and isn't that the primary goal of those that consider them serious car enthusiasts?
How often you have to repeat this process to maintain your car's finish to a quality level you expect for your car's appearance depends upon how the car is used and where it's parked when not in use.
A daily driver that is parked outside most of the time, either at work or at home, will need to be maintained more regularly than a Garage Queen that is only driven on sunny days. So adjust your car maintenance schedule to fit your lifestyle and the way you use your car.
Anyway, that's the story behind the story and you ever read this Mr. Anderson, please give me a call or shoot me an e-mail, I've tried to contact you over the years but to no avail and would love to talk with you again. Last time we talked you were getting ready to wet-sand your 1957 Chevy and I volunteered to come over and lend a hand, the offer still stands.
Rob T
New member
- Jul 28, 2007
- 1,128
- 0
As I said in my review of Fuzion, I definitely do not find that it attracts dust any more than the sealants that I use. I am very sensitive to dust attraction and I would have been disappointed if it was a real issue with Fuzion. It doesn't seem to be an issue for me.
Old Tiger
New member
- Oct 27, 2009
- 4,468
- 0
I 100% agree.
CEE DOG
New member
- Jul 12, 2009
- 7,358
- 0
Rob, the side that is dirtier (didn't release the dust and pollen as easily is Natty's Blue paste. The cleaner side which did release the dust and pollen easily is UPGP.
Funny you should pull from that article because I actually applied UPGP, Fuzion, and Natty's Blue Paste to that car at that time. The hood had Natty's Blue on one half and Fuzion on the other.
Both waxes held the pollen about the same. I mention that in post #12 from that article.
Here is that article: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...90-beading-sizes-upgp-nattys-blue-fuzion.html
Funny you should pull from that article because I actually applied UPGP, Fuzion, and Natty's Blue Paste to that car at that time. The hood had Natty's Blue on one half and Fuzion on the other.
Both waxes held the pollen about the same. I mention that in post #12 from that article.
Here is that article: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...90-beading-sizes-upgp-nattys-blue-fuzion.html
AndrewBall
New member
- Sep 3, 2010
- 286
- 0
- Thread starter
- #92
WHEW! 9 pages.
sorry for the delays guys.
I got to work on the car today and my original verdict remains. I did an IPA wipe down on the whole car and ran #205 over it once more just to be sure. then wiped it down again and then applied the waxes. No Sealants, No Glazes. but just polish, IPA and then wax.
here are some pictures of the results.
These pictures are of me taking some light readings to be sure that not only is the amount of lighting hitting the surface the same but the color temperature also. here you only see my exposure values. This was i know that any color difference can be attributed to the wax not a variance in the light hitting the surface.
Here is the car, taped off in sections to be waxed. I have three sections. 3M performance Finish, Fuzion, and P21s
Here is the Fuzion and P21s Side by side, outside in sunlight.
All three tests. side by side.
tape removed.
side by side of Fuzion and 3M performance finish
side by side of Fuzion and P21s. you can see both waxes clearly enhance the finish. after letting the waxes sit in the sun for an hour or two i began to notice some added "depth" from the Fuzion, but i cant really say for sure if that was truly the case.
from my inspections the Fuzion and P21s certainly out perform the 3M. which i sort of expected but i had the 3m in my garage so i figured why not see whats up.
The fuzion is a great product and goes a long way. I dont think it looks any better then the p21s at least on this color.
I covered the whole car in Klasse HGS and then Fuzion tomorrow. I did a small test area of the Klasse and then fuzion letting the klasse set for 3 hours and the klasse adds a sort of depth and shine that the waxes alone did not. but with wax on top of the sealant it was a breath taking finish. I knew there was a reason i always used Klasse HGS and then p21s, because it looks phenomenal!
Anyway. As originally stated I dont see any "beauty" difference between the two waxes. perhaps one attracts less dust or one lasts longer then the other. or perhaps they just work better on a different color. Either way i will likely not purchase a full size jar of Fuzion, simply because of the price. now souveran? maybe a different story.
Fuzion is not a bad wax and if you like it. use it up! its a great wax and i see no faults with it. it smells great, something it definitely has over the p21s which smells like bee excrement.
If you are looking for a beauty wax and dont want to break the bank i recommend the P21s.
I think my next test is P21s vs Liquid Souveran since that will be my next free sample.
sorry for the delays guys.
I got to work on the car today and my original verdict remains. I did an IPA wipe down on the whole car and ran #205 over it once more just to be sure. then wiped it down again and then applied the waxes. No Sealants, No Glazes. but just polish, IPA and then wax.
here are some pictures of the results.
These pictures are of me taking some light readings to be sure that not only is the amount of lighting hitting the surface the same but the color temperature also. here you only see my exposure values. This was i know that any color difference can be attributed to the wax not a variance in the light hitting the surface.
Here is the car, taped off in sections to be waxed. I have three sections. 3M performance Finish, Fuzion, and P21s
Here is the Fuzion and P21s Side by side, outside in sunlight.
All three tests. side by side.
tape removed.
side by side of Fuzion and 3M performance finish
side by side of Fuzion and P21s. you can see both waxes clearly enhance the finish. after letting the waxes sit in the sun for an hour or two i began to notice some added "depth" from the Fuzion, but i cant really say for sure if that was truly the case.
from my inspections the Fuzion and P21s certainly out perform the 3M. which i sort of expected but i had the 3m in my garage so i figured why not see whats up.
The fuzion is a great product and goes a long way. I dont think it looks any better then the p21s at least on this color.
I covered the whole car in Klasse HGS and then Fuzion tomorrow. I did a small test area of the Klasse and then fuzion letting the klasse set for 3 hours and the klasse adds a sort of depth and shine that the waxes alone did not. but with wax on top of the sealant it was a breath taking finish. I knew there was a reason i always used Klasse HGS and then p21s, because it looks phenomenal!
Anyway. As originally stated I dont see any "beauty" difference between the two waxes. perhaps one attracts less dust or one lasts longer then the other. or perhaps they just work better on a different color. Either way i will likely not purchase a full size jar of Fuzion, simply because of the price. now souveran? maybe a different story.
Fuzion is not a bad wax and if you like it. use it up! its a great wax and i see no faults with it. it smells great, something it definitely has over the p21s which smells like bee excrement.
If you are looking for a beauty wax and dont want to break the bank i recommend the P21s.
I think my next test is P21s vs Liquid Souveran since that will be my next free sample.
Dubbin1
Active member
- May 28, 2009
- 3,845
- 0
I already did but yet no one wants to believe my results...
AndrewBall
New member
- Sep 3, 2010
- 286
- 0
- Thread starter
- #96
haha, p21s has an unexplainable odor.
Rob T
New member
- Jul 28, 2007
- 1,128
- 0
Where are the pictures?
Kurt_s
New member
- Dec 18, 2009
- 1,263
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Thank you Andrew. Nice update. It would be interesting to know about durability, ease of appliation and how clean the car remains between washes in your hands. It's good to know that P21 Concours is a nice alternative at the price point.
I found that my car didn't get terribly dusty with Fuzion when I parked in the dirt parking lot when I went hiking this summer. The dust also blew off when I drove down the road. Hopefully, P21 Concours will be the same.
Now for a serious question.
How do you know how bee excrement really smells? Feed back please
I hope you didn't get stung too many times!
I found that my car didn't get terribly dusty with Fuzion when I parked in the dirt parking lot when I went hiking this summer. The dust also blew off when I drove down the road. Hopefully, P21 Concours will be the same.
Now for a serious question.
How do you know how bee excrement really smells? Feed back please
I hope you didn't get stung too many times!
Rob T
New member
- Jul 28, 2007
- 1,128
- 0
I have to admit that after reading posts here talking about the dust attraction of Fuzion, I washed my car yesterday and paid a lot of attention to how the paint looked while driving the car today. I know it's only been another day, but thus far, I have to say I see no reason to alter my opinion regarding dust attraction not being an issue with Fuzion.
That doesn't mean that I don't believe that others are having the issue. I don't know exactly what all the variables are. It just isn't an issue for me.
That doesn't mean that I don't believe that others are having the issue. I don't know exactly what all the variables are. It just isn't an issue for me.
