C. Charles Hahn
New member
- Aug 27, 2007
- 3,103
- 0
Agreed about the angled vs. straight down... I really see no reason to angle them as long as they're positioned to shine straight down the side of the car for the most part. Of course, nothing is going to replace using a swirl finder light of some sort head-on if you need to see a defect you're trying to correct so the best you're going to get out of any fluorescent is going to be general task lighting. My Brinkmanns are never far away while I'm working because of this.
One other thing you will want to pay special attention to though is the color temperature and CRI of the fluorescent lamps you pick up to go into your lights. In my case, all the lamps are Phillips Alto-II F32T8 48" with 6500K color temp and a CRI of 86. I find the 6500K to be closest to natural sunlight, and the 86 CRI is plenty sufficient for accurate color rendering in this situation. Some will disagree and prefer 5000K since the lamps (at least what I've seen available) are 89 CRI, but I don't feel that they put out as much usable light and it just looks more artificial to my eyes. Definitely don't just go with standard 4100/4300K though -- the light output is much less effective and the CRI on most is terrible by comparison.
One other thing you will want to pay special attention to though is the color temperature and CRI of the fluorescent lamps you pick up to go into your lights. In my case, all the lamps are Phillips Alto-II F32T8 48" with 6500K color temp and a CRI of 86. I find the 6500K to be closest to natural sunlight, and the 86 CRI is plenty sufficient for accurate color rendering in this situation. Some will disagree and prefer 5000K since the lamps (at least what I've seen available) are 89 CRI, but I don't feel that they put out as much usable light and it just looks more artificial to my eyes. Definitely don't just go with standard 4100/4300K though -- the light output is much less effective and the CRI on most is terrible by comparison.