AIO--D151, xmt360, or poliseal??

I use D151 REGULARLY with a Makita and yellow Megs SoftBuff Polishing pad ... the first pass at around 1200 rpms with moderate pressure then a second pass at about 900 rpms with no pressure and never get Holograms ... now D151 and wool at 1500 rpms will cut IMO like 105 but WILL LEAVE BEHIND marring and will need to be finished with 205 but IMO D151 for $25 a gallon is the best thing since the microwave for a one stepper!
 
fredcandetail said:
I use D151 REGULARLY with a Makita and yellow Megs SoftBuff Polishing pad ... the first pass at around 1200 rpms with moderate pressure then a second pass at about 900 rpms with no pressure and never get Holograms ... now D151 and wool at 1500 rpms will cut IMO like 105 but WILL LEAVE BEHIND marring and will need to be finished with 205 but IMO D151 for $25 a gallon is the best thing since the microwave for a one stepper!
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I haven't used the D-151 but have a similar product and this is exactly how I use it and I also have no problems with holograms. I do the same with PWS and tried Poli-Seal this way too with no holograms. The important thing when using a rotary for a one stepper with no holograms is to use a pad that is soft enough that you can keep it flat at all times.
 
I use XMT 360 for almost all of my basic detailing packages. It doesnt cut the best but will remove very minor swirls, scratches and oxidation like everyone has pretty much said. I use it with my PC set to 6 and a white pad. Usually two steady over lapping passes is enough to clean, correct and seal so it doesnt take much to get great results. Residue removal is extremely easy with a Cobra mf towel. Another reason I have stuck with this AIO for awhile now is the customer feedback. So many of my customers have been shocked at how great the paint looked asking how many coats of wax I put on and some even email/call me to tell me the car is still looking great months later. This product has just been perfect for me and I'm not about to fix anything that's not broke so I'll be sticking with it awhile:)
 
Don't forget M66 Quick Detailer. It's a great AIO and it's cheap.
 
I concur and I like cheap!
I Did the math one time and used one of the sample bottles to see how much product I was using in general (ounce) wise and found that I could do a Tahoe with about 6oz of product! $25 for a gallon of 151! 128oz divided by 6 =21! I can do 21 cars with a gallon! Thats a little over a buck a car worth of product! Seriously?!?!?! Last time I checked I was doing this for the $$$$ followed by my love for detailing :D
 
Thanks everyone for all the input. I'm going to try d151. I can't pass up the price. I've had great results with 105 and 205. So hopefully since d151 shares smat, I get good results with this as well. I'll post results when I'm finished! Thanks!
 
PBoy said:
So for paint cleaning after claying is this accurate:

ZAINO>DG501>KAIO
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Not sure about you line up? You start with Zaino, Zaino what? Zaino ZPC to polish with? Zaino ZAIO to clean the paint? Or another Zaino product. For you second step you mention a Duragloss cleaner sealant but with an AIO (KAIO) to follow it. KAIO would clean off which ever Zaino product you are referring to and the DG501 and you would be left with KAIO which does not have much durability so you would want to follow up with a more traditional sealant such as Klasse Sealant Glaze, Opti Seal, Zaino Z-2 or Z-5, etc.

If you are looking for a good paint cleaning process, I would go this route:

Wash -> Clay -> just one paint cleaner/AIO (Poli Seal, KAIO,Zaino ZAIO, XMT 360, etc. -> then a traditional sealant (Opti Seal, Klasse Sealant Glaze, Wolfgang, Zaino Z-2 or Z-5, etc.).
 
zliegen said:
If Flex would create a 3.5" and 5" backing plate, I would buy a 3401 very quickly. Oh well, Griot's 6 machine does well for me now.
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LOL, I have my Flex with the 6.5" flat pads, my Groits with 5.5" flat pads, and my old PC with 4" pads, all out at once in the garage while i'm working. This solves switching backing plates for the time being. that is until I run out of pads. because I dont plan to buy pads for all 3 machine in the future. LOL ! :buffing:

I think for a professional (which I am NOT), a setup like this could be VERY ideal !!!

When its time to use my new pads, I am setup for the flex with 6.5" and the Griots with the 4" pads.
 
I have OPT Poli-Seal and it works really well.

But I just bought some XMT 360 because I heard its easier to work with.
 
mg6045 said:
I have OPT Poli-Seal and it works really well.

But I just bought some XMT 360 because I heard its easier to work with.
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OPS is one of the easiest products I have ever used :confused:
 
what is the best hydro tech pad for applying an all in one. more specifically poli-seal or d151 with a flex 3401?
 
audilover said:
what is the best hydro tech pad for applying an all in one. more specifically poli-seal or d151 with a flex 3401?
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You can use either one, but to ensure you do not get any buffer trails if you are using them on soft paint, the Tangerine would be the way to go. If you need a little bit more cut, you can use the Cyan, just be careful about inducing marring (though I have used the Cyan on black paint with no ill effects, it just depends on the make). I believe that Audi paint is pretty tough, but I am not 100% certain, maybe someone else will chime in on that one.
 
so which lc ccs pad would be good for this?? if i leave behind marring or holograms i guess i could follow up with menz sip or po85rd??
 
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