pads for wg finishing glaze

[john b]

i got some finishing glaze comeing as would appreciate some pad recomadations,will be useing pc7424 xp with 5 inch bp
thanks

 

[SeaJay's]

I currently use the LC CCS flat gray/black pads for finishing glazes. I know a lot people also like the LC hydro pads. I've yet to try them as I have an over stock of the LC CCS pads right now.

 

[silverfox]

I'd go with the 5-1/2" tangerine Lake Country Hydro Tech flat pad. Its just about perfect for a PCxp/WG Finishing Glaze combo. It has some cut to it, but finishes like a gray LLC pad.

 

[Nick McKees37]

I'd go with the 5-1/2" tangerine Lake Country Hydro Tech flat pad. Its just about perfect for a PCxp/WG Finishing Glaze combo. It has some cut to it, but finishes like a gray LLC pad.

:iagree:

The Wolfgang Finishing Glaze and a Tangerine Hydro-Tech pad is a great combination. rops:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The Wolfgang Finishing Glaze is a very fine finishing polish, it is a product I use to benchmark with when testing other polishes for micro-marring.

You can use it with a polishing pad to give the product a little more bite or any of the soft foam finishing pads for final polishing before applying a wax or paint sealant.

 

[silverfox]

Mike...I'm curious...have you bench-marked the new Megs DA Microfiber Finishing Wax against the WG Finsihing Glaze yet? I realize that the WG product offers no protection, but I'd be curious as to how they compare as "finishing" products.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Mike...I'm curious...have you bench-marked the new Megs DA Microfiber Finishing Wax against the WG Finishing Glaze yet? I realize that the WG product offers no protection, but I'd be curious as to how they compare as "finishing" products.

No, not yet. I have everything set up for a bunch of testing but behind the scenes there's a lot going on...

Anytime you finish with a product that contains "protection ingredients", you have to ensure that you completely remove them somehow to see the true results.

Some compounds and polishes are water soluble, at least to some degree if the are formulated for and targeted for use in a fresh paint environment, so they are pretty easy to remove with IPA or MA or a Detergent Wash, heck even Glass Cleaner.

What's inside compounds and polishes marketed at the enthusiast market is an unknown as there's no need for the product to be Body Shop Safe, thus a correction product for the enthusiast market could also contain protection ingredients or in more vague terms, ingredients that will last i.e. ingredients that are not water soluble.

Waxes and Paint Sealants will require a little more umph to ensure all the protection ingredients are removed otherwise you could get false readings.

Also, for a apples to apples comparison of different products, you would want to try to keep all other variables the same, that is if you use a microfiber pad with one product you would want to use a microfiber pad with the other product. If you use a foam pad with one product you would want to use a foam pad with the other product and of course, test on the same paint system on a panel you can look down on.

Then after all the testing, the results are just "indicators" because they only apply to that specific paint system. You could generalize that what looks good, or looks bad on one paint system will look good or bad on all paint systems but experience shows that paint systems react differently thus one of the reasons to perform a Test-Spot anytime you're buffing on a paint system, that is a "vehicle" you've never worked on before.

 

[rouxster]

:iagree:

The Wolfgang Finishing Glaze and a Tangerine Hydro-Tech pad is a great combination. rops:

First, sorry for replying to such and old post, but Nick's comment above threw me off of my plan a bit.

Second, my wife is getting a new used SUV, dark metallic blue. All of our cars were light colored before, so corrections and upkeep were fairly simple. The paint has some minor to medium swirls in it. My plan was to use WG TSR with a LC tangerine pad and follow up with WG FG on a white or red pad. What should I use for the TSR since it's suggested that I use the tangerine pad for the FG?

 

[BadgerRivFan]

First, sorry for replying to such and old post, but Nick's comment above threw me off of my plan a bit.

Second, my wife is getting a new used SUV, dark metallic blue. All of our cars were light colored before, so corrections and upkeep were fairly simple. The paint has some minor to medium swirls in it. My plan was to use WG TSR with a LC tangerine pad and follow up with WG FG on a white or red pad. What should I use for the TSR since it's suggested that I use the tangerine pad for the FG?

Don't over think it Ryan... Doing a test spot to determine the least aggressive method to get the job done is the way to go. Try the finishing glaze with an orange pad, and if that works to your satisfaction then just stick to one step. If that doesn't work, you can always try your original plan. All paints are a little different so you just have to experiment a bit...

 

[Ancient1]

First, sorry for replying to such and old post, but Nick's comment above threw me off of my plan a bit.

Second, my wife is getting a new used SUV, dark metallic blue. All of our cars were light colored before, so corrections and upkeep were fairly simple. The paint has some minor to medium swirls in it. My plan was to use WG TSR with a LC tangerine pad and follow up with WG FG on a white or red pad. What should I use for the TSR since it's suggested that I use the tangerine pad for the FG?

I am guessing you do not have the Hydro-tech pads. They only come in three colors Cyan cutting Tangerine polishing and Crimson finishing. The Cyan would be similar to the orange/tangerine flat or CCS pad the Tangerine Hydro would be similar to the white flat/CCS pad and the Crimson would be similar to the Black/Blue CCS/Flat.

Here is a picture of the Hydro-Tech pads and the LC HD pads I use with the corresponding polish's I mainly use with the order of aggressiveness with the most aggressive on the right.