cutting with makita and finishing with a Da

SPIROS ANTONIOU

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Hey quys .One question and maybe its a silly one but always i wanted to ask it:laughing:

Because i dont use to my makita yet and iam still practising in panels can i.....

Begin to cut with rotary and before polish break down finish finish the cut method with Da?
 
Not sure why you want to do that . But if you remove heary swirls and or RIDS with the rotary yes you can finish down with the Da . Or if your in the middle of using the rotary and want to finish with the Da yes you can just remember the product will take longer to break done with a Da verus a rotary but that also depends on the product your using .
 
Not sure why you want to do that . But if you remove heary swirls and or RIDS with the rotary yes you can finish down with the Da . Or if your in the middle of using the rotary and want to finish with the Da yes you can just remember the product will take longer to break done with a Da verus a rotary but that also depends on the product your using .


I am a newbie with rotary thats why iam asking .I can finish with a rotary but with little holograms .Then i finish with Da and all gone.But always wanted to ask this but i never tried it:buffing:
 
Depends upon which compound or polish you're using.

Some compounds specifically state the are for use with a rotary buffer and at least one of the reasons for this are because the pressure and power of the pad rotating against the paint are needed to effectively breakdown the abrasives. If you stop buffing before these abrasives have been broken down and then try to finish breaking them down with a tool that's not recommended to break them down, you might not get the results you're looking for.

So the question is...

Which compounds are you using?
Seriously, the rotary buffer isn't that much of a mystery, one of the most important things you can do to master the rotary buffer is to simply work clean, that means clean your pad often, especially when doing any steps that remove paint because this means you're going to have two things building up on the face of the pad faster than with any other tool.

Spent product
Removed paint


:)
 
but that also depends on the product your using .

That would be the key to his question...

If you're using a product that can be used by either a rotary buffer or a DA polisher, then you could start with rotary and finish out with DA and you shouldn't have any problem.

My reflex action would be to wipe the paint clean before simply switching tools, that is after you buff with the rotary, whatever residue is on the paint wipe it off and then switch tools.

That would mean you're using the RB to do the heavy lifting or grunt work and then once the deepest defects are removed, finish out with a DA.


:)
 
See my comments in this thread I just moved to "Hot Topics"

How do you stay away from holograms?



And is this thread on how-to use the rotary buffer...

Is it worth it to get the new Flex PE14-2-150?


And don't forget to wear safety glasses... you only have two eyes and they need to last you the rest of your life...

Sept19ADVClass059.jpg






:)
 
That would be the key to his question...

If you're using a product that can be used by either a rotary buffer or a DA polisher, then you could start with rotary and finish out with DA and you shouldn't have any problem.

My reflex action would be to wipe the paint clean before simply switching tools, that is after you buff with the rotary, whatever residue is on the paint wipe it off and then switch tools.

That would mean you're using the RB to do the heavy lifting or grunt work and then once the deepest defects are removed, finish out with a DA.


:)


Thank you quys .Iam using compounds which the are comfortable with rotary and Da.I dont know if is right to tell what brand becouse Autogeek doesnt sell these.Thanks quys i will try this method to see.

I am more comfortable with Da in curves areas
 
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